asphalt

Dude personally I will recommend you to stick with the mineral oils. Use Castrol Power 1 10w30, its good and your will get excellent pickup with less vibration at higher speed and change the oil at every 2k-2.5k km, your engine will be healthy.

on wheels

Thanks dude for your comments..

yeah man i hate Exide.

They are ignorant fool's dude it is available in india both 5W 40 and 10W 40
300v.I suggest you call this guy Mr mathew PH-9884519449 he was the motul area manager here do not know where he is posted right now but call him and say a friend of your's got the 10W 40 from "Goodwill" agencies
in chennai,if he could not help just get the mobile no. of mr Joseph from him and ask this guy for the info....i am pretty sure they will ship you the 300v if you ask for it .If mr joseph was not cooperative then ask the Goodwill guy to ship the 300v to you(he even has the 5100 10W 40) .


[QUOTE=on wheels;398004]Ok i will go for the amaron if its just plug and play.Are you sure no modifications are needed to change the charge rate as it is 9ah

That is some detailed info .I set the idle RPM to 3000 and turned the fuel screw clockwise but the engine did not stall(the article mentioned the RPM will decrease and then to stop just before the engine stalls...this did not happen).So i turned the fuel screw anticlockwise 4-5 turn's and set the RPM to 1500... now started to turn it clockwise only this time the RPM decreased and at one point the engine began to stall....So i stopped it at this point and began to turn the screw slowly Anticlockwise after about 4 turn's i stopped cause i could not tell from the sound when to STOP.
I will get the CO test done and post the result please tell me what to do.

I bugged the distributor and the motul idiots so much to get the 10W version.the distributor called a top motul guy and asked about the 5100 10w 40.. you know what motul said? they said no customer has called them asking for that grade.The distributor said a customer is standing right in front of him asking about the same product and motul sent the 5100 10W 40 to him the following week.I suggest you guy's harass motul everyday and give them some verbal bashing that work's.

just turn the A/F screw 2.5 turn anti clockwise from full close and see the result.

Is 1 turn 360 degree rotation or is it 180

1 full turn is 360 degree rotation.

Hey which bike? All spark plug should open at anti-clockwise as normal screws, not clockwise. The plug tight at clockwise. Never mess with the spark plug and engine oil drain plug thread, if they get damage you will spoil your engine for ever. Very careful during fitting these two things i.e. Spark plug and engine oil drain plug nut.

Roger.



Its my Xtreme.

Never knew it is that serious ...the SC guys have already spoiled my engine head thread by over tightening it, had to remove the head and re-thread i.Can't we do the same thing to the spark plug too if it get's spoiled .

soumen.sam
sarbanoxley
on wheels

Thanks to all, finally settled for Castrol Power1 10W30
I'm getting it for 270bucks.

@sarbanoxley
Will try to bug the dealer! Thanks!

This particular SC in kanchipuram is the worst .Ok that i honestly did not know...Can i change the whole plug at every 2 -3 oil change.

Yah do that .Get their head office no. and bash them for the lack of stock and lie to them you using CP1R as the local motul dealer does not stock the 300V

As I use my bike on regular basis, I accumulate lots of dust, mud on the swing arm, lower part of the engine - in some cases on the engine body, suspension, chain cover, silencer, rims etc.

Now the problem is, people are saying that regular washing using a water jet(once in a week) is not good for the bike. But, it is also true that the accumulated mud on those metal parts can cause severe damage because this mud may contain some chemicals (yes, usually they do - as I have seen that in my previous bike). So, what to do???

I was planning to wash the bike using waterjet to remove the mud and wash the metal parts with diesel - they use a spray gun for that, and once again a light wash to remove the excess diesel. It can be done twice a month - is this allright? or anybody has any good idea? Please let me know.
@soumen.sam: CP 1 is really a good oil. Today I rode around 350+, (up & down) and in some cases at very high rpm for 35 - 40 km, but still it is going strong - no vibs, no burning smell, no roughness, no abnormal sound and no overheating. It has all the goodness of a Petronas Sprinta 5000. Lets see what happens next.... But I am Happy with this oil.

Dude more than mud the water is the 1st enemy of a bike, as we have maximum iron parts and less alloy parts so its better to keep away your bike from water as much as possible.

Now the thing is Water Jet : this is the easiest thing to clean the mud but its very worse for the bike. Why? Bcoz during washing the high force water enters into many inside parts like swing arm bearing, handle bar bearing, front and rear axel etc and hence these parts are service very rarely so you’re unaware but actually it starts rusting inside. As you know these are very low cost bikes and the protection inside is not very good, the gaskets, the dust cap, dust seals etc. So I strongly recommend you to stay away from water jet washing as much as possible. But you can do it once in one or two month, but it’s the fact. If you do so, then after washing take a 15min drive, due to air flow, heat and jerking the most water will dried out, but don’t expect that in monsoon season. Comparably try to wash less in monsoon season, whether it requires more at that time.

Best thing for bike wash is to clean it with a wet cloth. And if you have water tank at your roof then take a pipe and press the pipe’s head nozzle by finger and you will get speedy water out almost like jet. Wash with that. Also if very dirty then use any car shampoo or ordinary shampoo, mix with water, get a water sprayer ( which you can see at Saloon usually ) spray the whole bike with shampoo mix and let it sit for a few mins, the dirt will get loose and then wash.

For the mud what you can do is put a rubber mud guard at the front which looks like a rubber mat and hang at the leg guard, it may damage the look, but it very very useful at the monsoon. As much bigger the mat is, you will get more protection from mud. It will prevent the mud to get into under the engine and exhaust pipe.

And its true that mud cause damages the painted surface, mostly the hot parts. But there have no solution for the rear side.

I don’t know much about the diesel wash, but any chemical can damage the painted surface, try to make less contact with fine painted surface like fuel tank and other fairings.

And I told you about the CP1 10w30 but you diverted my mind , But it’s a good oil, don’t know about the longer run at a stress, but its very good for city ride.

sab so gaye kaya?