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Thread: Yamaha Gladiator RS 2008 not performing on top end

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    Exclamation [UPDATED 15 JUL] Yamaha Gladiator not performing - Need EXPERT Help

    Hi, I have a Gladiator RS 2008 make with almost 32000 on the odo and i am facing the following issues:


    • Top speed has dropped from 108kph@8000RPM to max 70kph@7000RPM.
    • Irrespective of throttle, bike can't / doesn't rev beyond 7000RPM in 5th gear but when revved in neutral, it revs freely to 10000PRM+
    • Mileage has dropped drastically to 30-32kpl while ridden at max speed i.e. 70kph (previously it has been run at 90-100 kph with 45kpl mileage)

    Now before y'all ask me about details, let me jot down the performance and maintenance history:

    • updateFlushed out the wurth oil and replaced with Gulf Pride 4T Plus 20W40 yesterday. (14 Jul)
    • updateAir Filters: paper type, replaced yesterday (14 Jul)
    • updateCarburetor: Cleaned thoroughly again yesterday.(14 Jul)
    • Carb tuning: I do the carb tuning myself, and right now it's set to 4 turns from the fully-closed position.
    • Piston head & valves overhauled at 28000KMs and has been thru a decent run-in as well.
    • updateClutch plates changed today (15 Jul)
    • Exhaust: Normal, no white/black smoke
    • Chain: OK, oiling & tightening done 500 kms back
    • updateSpark Plugs: Replaced with NGK Iridium yesterday (14 Jul)
    • Brakes: No gripping/friction under normal circumstances.

    Help me out with finding a solution to all these issues - After after all that overhauling and spending around 2000 on the bike, It's still lacking in performance. I am really going mad and am clueless now
    Last edited by bbsrailfan; 07-15-2012 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Updated info after overhaul on 14-15 Jul

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    What do you mean by
    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    Air Filters: paper type, self-cleaned 500kms back (wash-dry-compressed air)
    did you water washed the air filter??
    If so then its wasted. Change it. Paper filters are not ment to be wet.

    Another thing, was your bike able to hit 8k rpm after the valve job? Do you have any starting problem?

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    Thanks for Approving this thread, Mods.

    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    What do you mean by

    did you water washed the air filter??
    If so then its wasted. Change it. Paper filters are not ment to be wet.

    Another thing, was your bike able to hit 8k rpm after the valve job? Do you have any starting problem?
    Saw a video on youtube where a guy demonstrated by washing his airfilter and sun-drying it to make it work good as new

    Yes, I was able to hit 8500RPM after the valve job and I don't have any starting problem. Even on cold mornings, the bike starts on the first crank (ES) or 2nd Kick (KS)

    Just curious, why can't the bike reach the actual redline of 10000RPM when it's under load?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    Saw a video on youtube where a guy demonstrated by washing his airfilter and sun-drying it to make it work good as new

    Yes, I was able to hit 8500RPM after the valve job and I don't have any starting problem. Even on cold mornings, the bike starts on the first crank (ES) or 2nd Kick (KS)

    Just curious, why can't the bike reach the actual redline of 10000RPM when it's under load?
    road engines produce max bhp & torque at much lower rpm compared to redline.
    For glady max bhp rpm is 8k and max torque rpm is 6k.
    Now torque is the thing which pulls a bike (or anything). After 6k it starts dropping, but still there is increase in bhp output with increase in rpm till 8k. But after 8k there's massive drop in torque & bhp output. That's why it 'struggles' to go beyond 8k rpm.
    About the air filter, its element gets damaged after getting wet (even after drying it stays damaged) thereby restricting airflow.
    You sure youtube video featured paper type filter? (sorry for cross-questioning you) but youtube things doesnt work all the time.
    Is your bike is able to hit 8k rpm in 4th or 3rd gear?
    And confirm carb is clean or not. And also get a compression test done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    road engines produce max bhp & torque at much lower rpm compared to redline.
    For glady max bhp rpm is 8k and max torque rpm is 6k.
    Now torque is the thing which pulls a bike (or anything). After 6k it starts dropping, but still there is increase in bhp output with increase in rpm till 8k. But after 8k there's massive drop in torque & bhp output. That's why it 'struggles' to go beyond 8k rpm.
    About the air filter, its element gets damaged after getting wet (even after drying it stays damaged) thereby restricting airflow.
    You sure youtube video featured paper type filter? (sorry for cross-questioning you) but youtube things doesnt work all the time.
    Is your bike is able to hit 8k rpm in 4th or 3rd gear?
    And confirm carb is clean or not. And also get a compression test done.
    Thanks for the info. The video which i saw on YouTube was for Gladiator specifically and he had the same yellow-colored paper filters which I currently have on my bike.

    BTW, after 'cleaning' the filters, I felt my bike was more powerful and noisier (Noisy meaning somewhat phat-phat type like a Fiero or a Pulsar and and not the smooth whirrrr like Honda & Yamaha) Maybe it was sipping more fuel as well, but that was not noticeable until I noticed the severe drop yday after a long ride when 3.75L of fuel got sipped away in just 120 km.

    Didn't check whether I can hit 8000RPM in other gears - never felt the need to. I normally shift gears at 6000 RPM except on highways where I can take the beyond 70kph. Will check today on the way back home and confirm.

    As I mentioned in the 1st post, my mech told me he's cleaned the carb, but I have no means of knowing. How can i check it manually/at home? Also, how to do a compression test? Can I (or my local mech) do it myself or do I need to go to some Auth Service Center?

    OT: I am relatively new to mechanics. Until recently, I used to run to my mech for every small niggle. Only recently I have started getting my hands dirty and have learnt the basics like carb adjustment, sparkplug cleaning, airfilter cleaning (OK, I screwed up this time :P) etc.
    Last edited by bbsrailfan; 07-09-2012 at 06:32 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    As I mentioned in the 1st post, my mech told me he's cleaned the carb, but I have no means of knowing. How can i check it manually/at home? Also, how to do a compression test? Can I (or my local mech) do it myself or do I need to go to some Auth Service Center?
    befor opening up carb tell me is there any fluctuation in rpm when idling and is there any hiccup when throttle is given when not in gear? How's the throttel response? When you shut the throttel after reving it upto 7-8k rpm, does the rpms comes down to idle quickly or not?
    If most of the answers are yes then your carb needs cleaning and/or tuning.
    for checking carb at home, remove carb from bike, usually connected with rubber boots kind of thing (to the carb intake & carb outlet). Needs lots of force, dont damage the rubber boots. (you may need to unplug fuel line & accelerator cable)
    now with the carb in your hands look at the throttel body (also called butterfly) it should be clean. Open float bowl (after draining fuel from it) it should be clean. Remove jets, you should be able to see through jets (meaning clean holes)
    open top part of carb, there's diaphram with a spring, it should be clean from both sides, diaphram is connected with slide & slide is connected with needel. Clean everything. Done. Now replace everything back.
    Before taking up this task i'd suggest refer as much videos & articles as much possible on the topic from the internet.
    And for compression testing you need a air pressure gauge connected to spark plug hole instead of spark plug via a adapter. With the gauge connected, crank the engine 5-6 times and note the reading on the gauge. Done.
    All this can be done at svc or even at individual mechanic, if he is equipped.
    P.s. Stay with bike whenever its been worked/serviced, it helps a lot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    befor opening up carb tell me is there any fluctuation in rpm when idling and is there any hiccup when throttle is given when not in gear? How's the throttel response? When you shut the throttel after reving it upto 7-8k rpm, does the rpms comes down to idle quickly or not?

    If most of the answers are yes then your carb needs cleaning and/or tuning.

    • Very slight or negligible fluctuation while idling. Actually I take that fluctuation as a baseline for carb tuning (from this article)
    • No hiccups while revving in neutral. Goes up all the way to 10000RPM.
    • Throttle response is slightly laggy, but maybe that's coz I have kept it tuned slightly below optimal?
    • Not sure that's an ideal time, but when revved, my RPM comes down from 8K to 2K in about 3 secs - not sure if that's quick or slow .

    However, some noteworthy add-on points:

    • While revving higher than 3000RPM on neutral, the exhaust misfires every 4-5 seconds. A kind of sudden loud 'phat', like an explosion of gases. Does my exhaust pipe need cleaning?
    • That strange squealing sound - it wasn't there prior to the valve job. It has propped up after the valve job and I just can't live with it. The mech says its all normal but i just don't digest his story.
    • Noticed y'day, this issue wasnt there earlier - even when i close the fuel screw completely (in the carb), the engine doesn't die completely, it still manages to idle. Is my carb damaged?


    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    for checking carb at home, remove carb from bike, usually connected with rubber boots kind of thing (to the carb intake & carb outlet). Needs lots of force, dont damage the rubber boots. (you may need to unplug fuel line & accelerator cable)
    now with the carb in your hands look at the throttel body (also called butterfly) it should be clean. Open float bowl (after draining fuel from it) it should be clean. Remove jets, you should be able to see through jets (meaning clean holes)
    open top part of carb, there's diaphram with a spring, it should be clean from both sides, diaphram is connected with slide & slide is connected with needel. Clean everything. Done. Now replace everything back.
    Before taking up this task i'd suggest refer as much videos & articles as much possible on the topic from the internet.
    Wow, that IS complicated I would take to my mechand ask him to disassemble. Don't want to try myself, incase I end up screwing up the whole thing.
    Last edited by bbsrailfan; 07-09-2012 at 07:33 PM.

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    Well 3sec for 8k rpm to 2k rpm is kinda slow, should be ~ 2 sec.
    That backfire is also telling AFR is not optimal.
    May be intake has developed a leak (causing lean conditions) or may either of the valves has developed a leak (directly causing a backfire).
    can you post a pic of your spark plug electrode tip? I feel to check AFR. (You can also do this by refering Spark Plugs or Spark Plugs)
    cant say much about the carb condition over the internet, that's also possible.
    You should consult your mechanic and few others for several opinions. One thing is sure, your mechanic is not good or he doesnt want your bike to be good.
    Last edited by Honda_CBF; 07-09-2012 at 11:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    Well 3sec for 8k rpm to 2k rpm is kinda slow, should be ~ 2 sec.
    That backfire is also telling AFR is not optimal.
    May be intake has developed a leak (causing lean conditions) or may either of the valves has developed a leak (directly causing a backfire).
    can you post a pic of your spark plug electrode tip? I feel to check AFR.
    cant say much about the carb condition over the internet, that's also possible.
    You should consult your mechanic and few others for several opinions. One thing is sure, your mechanic is not good or he doesnt want your bike to be good.
    Noob question, what's AFR and how do I check it? Will post a pic of the spark plugs tomorrow morning. Too dark now.

    BTW i checked the max RPMs of the bike in 3rd & 4th. It managed 7500 RPM in 3rd somehow, but didnt cross 7000 even in 4th.

    Are you sure nothing's wrong with the exhause pipe that's causing the backfire? I read here that people are installing 'free flow exhausts' to boost the performance. Any chances that my exhaust is clogged with soot & tht's causing a performance degrade?

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