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K&N fitting in CHENNAI :URGENT
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Ur oil wud have got screwed due to the over-heating. Check oil level. Synths last a max of 5K kms. U can change the oil. And an iridium plug has no advantage except the no. of kms it lasts. That cutting off is due to the lean mixture. Re-jetting is pure trial and error. Try with a ZMA jet. thats ur best bet.Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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[quote=Aparajith;209289]Ur oil wud have got screwed due to the over-heating. Check oil level. Synths last a max of 5K kms. U can change the oil. And an iridium plug has no advantage except the no. of kms it lasts. That cutting off is due to the lean mixture. Re-jetting is pure trial and error. Try with a ZMA jet. thats ur best bet.[/quote.
Hehe..I understand that... re-jetting is purely under trial and error. I hope the ZMA's jets wont make my A/F mixture RICH after the re-jetting. Hey, is the re-jetting a cumbersome process??? how long does it usually take? should i take it to a service centre or a mechanic?? I am planning to service my bike at a Castrol Bike zone this time( because i want a full carb cleaning). Bajaj guys are hopeless.
Never Argue with an Idiot !!!
He will bring you down to his level and beat you with his experience.
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Its just simple plug and play. Open the carb's cup, change the jet, fix it back ride it and see. Although u need a good mech to tune the carb again.Last edited by Aparajith; 05-14-2009, 01:56 PM.Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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xzactly.. if u have large enough jets the engine will never ever over heatOriginally posted by Aparajith View Post@CoPlay: Mate, if u use K&N ur letting more air in,. which means u screwed up the stoichiometric air:fuel ratio. Set that right and ur heating will reduce. And if ur so concerned of mileage, junk the K&N and stick to the stock filter. The 180 BTW uses 117.5 main-jet. U might lose out 1-2 kmpl at the max. As long as re-jetting is not done, ur vehicle will heat up no matter what oil u use!
@Beruoist: A K&N is no way a means to increase or push the boundaries of an engine's limit. And again, it does not affect the heating characteristics IF and only IF it is properly jetted. Agreed, that the heating could also be due to other factors like clutch wear-out etc. And a K&N will not produce more power, it just helps in better breathing so ur pick-up or power delivery characteristics may improve. So technically it should not heat ur vehicle up. I was using K&N for a really really long time dude. And never have I faced any over-heating. And just FYI I was also running the A 200 bore+piston @ 210 psi compression. And even MT-01 is air-cooled, do u say that it does not produce enough power?
btw thats one hell of a figure
210psi..does it on stock petrol?..i think your bike is the modded p150?rite??...read that thread long time back..cud u give a little mini review of the proformance
..
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It compulsarily ran on SPEED or SPEED97. Normal petrol wud start pinging. Yeas, mine was a modded P150. Its sold off man. Am using the R15 now.Originally posted by Richard View Postxzactly.. if u have large enough jets the engine will never ever over heat
btw thats one hell of a figure
210psi..does it on stock petrol?..i think your bike is the modded p150?rite??...read that thread long time back..cud u give a little mini review of the proformance
..Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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k&n for the r15..
hey guys,
i jus completed 6k kilometers on my r15.. was looking forward to change the air filter to a k&n.. although i kinda didn't understand the 'up-jetting' and 'adjusting air:fuel ratio'
.. would u guys plz suggest any good mechanic in chennai who can do this for me?? (someone whom i can communicate in English plz
..) and what do you guys feel about the NGK iridium spark plugs??
thnx in advance...
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Aparijith,Originally posted by Aparajith View PostUr oil wud have got screwed due to the over-heating. Check oil level. Synths last a max of 5K kms. U can change the oil. And an iridium plug has no advantage except the no. of kms it lasts. That cutting off is due to the lean mixture. Re-jetting is pure trial and error. Try with a ZMA jet. thats ur best bet.
Wouldn't plug chops be better than trial & error mate?
Meanwhile, more and more people have AFR meters with them nowadays. So, it comes in pretty handy during rejetting/upjetting.
Cheers,
Jay
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Re-jetting is for carb-ed bikes. Not FI'ed bikes!! U can use an NGK plug, but K&N is a no-no unless u know how to alter the AFR. Changing to Iridium plug, even the ASC will do it for u!Originally posted by spit_fire View Posthey guys,
i jus completed 6k kilometers on my r15.. was looking forward to change the air filter to a k&n.. although i kinda didn't understand the 'up-jetting' and 'adjusting air:fuel ratio'
.. would u guys plz suggest any good mechanic in chennai who can do this for me?? (someone whom i can communicate in English plz
..) and what do you guys feel about the NGK iridium spark plugs??
thnx in advance...
Yeah, using an AFR meter would be easier. What's plug chops BTW?Originally posted by jayprashanth View PostAparijith,
Wouldn't plug chops be better than trial & error mate?
Meanwhile, more and more people have AFR meters with them nowadays. So, it comes in pretty handy during rejetting/upjetting.
Cheers,
JayDemocracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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Get a set of new Plugs. Plonk one in and check for low end, mid range and top end rpm. For this, you need to hold a steady throttle for about half a KM at whichever rpm you want to test the AFR. Then kill the engine with the EKS and then coast to a stop. A rich mixture will show as a sooty base ring on the plug. A lean mixture will show a base ring that doesn't have absolutely any soot on it. It will appear almost new/glazed. Always start off with new plugs, run in the plugs for atleast a few kms and while doing the chop make sure that you chop the engine off from the desired rpm. Ideally, a 10X magnifying glass should be used to read the inner porcelain insulator. If you find shiny fragments of metal/oily splotches(microscopic) on the porcelain, you are basically screwing up your engine by running way too lean. If you have a very sooty ring or even a porcelain. You are running rich. A tan brown is what you want on the porcelain as well as mild soot deposit on the ring. To err on the safer side, a slightly richer mixture is always better.
Hope this helps. Google for more info. Also, you won't get it right the first time. It comes with a little practice and careful observation.
Cheers,
Jay
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K.. Appreciate the quick reply.. My bad tht i didn't know about the upjetting thing, still at the noob learning stage!!... So it is safe to upgrade to ngk plugs right?.. And is the AFR adjustment a one time thing or should it be continuously adjusted? Anyone you would recommend in chennai? Thanks again...
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