Query Approved.

If at all a relay is put, the horn will only eat the battery when the relay is switched on! But the only reason when a relay is required is when a Horn or light consumes so much power that a normal switch is not possible. Like in HID.


No in UG3 the headlight runs off coil, with a regulator, not with a rectifier.

Putting the rectifier run the headlight on DC, but not from the battery.

Yes, you may put the headlight on Battery, and No a relay is not required generally. But yes in specially in UG3 a switch or a relay is required .

Refer to : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...ic-all-dc.html

I may sound n00b but does the same bulb run on AC as well as DC??

Also about the horn and relay thing, are you saying that the current horn switch cannot withstand the more current drawn by the horn and will be damaged right?

So when we install a relay, we use the switch just to activate the relay armature right? The relay then supplies current to the horn. Did I get this right??

So the claim that battery consumption reduces due to installation of a relay is false right??

Yes, the same bulb will run on AC as well as DC. If the bulb is on Battery, the same bulb will be flicker free! Constant Illumination!

As far as I know, there' are no Horns which will require a relay, at least I cannot understand why one should need the relay any way!

Yes, exactly!

Yes, it's false, in fact in theory there would be added minuscule load of the relay!!

Now, either the guy you met wasn't using a relay, or it was something else!

when i run on DC, it means that the bulb will not flicker / change intensity depending on the rpms, correct ??

does it mean that when a 35w normal bulb is running on DC (whether direct from the battery or from the rectifier) it will be providing steady light that does not flicker with the rpms ??

so whats the difference in setup and consequences between a headlight that runs on DC direct from a battery and a headlight that runs on DC through a rectifier ?

sorry if the questions are very elementary, but I am not well versed in electrical fundas like these. would highly appreciate some education

thanks and regards
hell_glider

Well DC lighting is actually a misleading term, or at least does not explain everything.

Actually it doesn't matter whether the bike is on AC or DC, what matters is that it runs off the battery. In fact if you want you can put a inverter after the battery making it AC and still you headlight will be constant.

So, Basically for constant illumination you need to put the electrical of your bike on Battery not just DC.

But the issue here is that bikes which have AC have two current sources from the coil, one for charging the battery and the other for headlight and other electrical.

If we decide to convert our bikes to DC (battery), what is needed is that the two sources from the coil have to be combined to charge the battery alone, and then you draw the power from the battery.

Two get an idea, think you have 2 taps, one which fills a bucket and the other is for shower. Now the shower tap does not have constant water supply and you are irritated, so simply put all the taps to fill the bucket and connect the shower to the bucket, and voila you will have constant water in the shower. Sorry for the interprtation, if it sounded stupid!!

Wonderful! Thats the first time im getting what you guys do. It gives a pretty good basic idea. If its not too much trouble then it would be great if someone could explain a generic circuit with diagrams. What and where the coil is, what all the things in the circuit do like capacitor, heat sink, etc.

Hm.. I would recommend checking out this thread first http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...ic-all-dc.html

About your other queries.

Coil is in left side of your engine, just next to gear shifter. But for converting it to DC, no need of checking out the coil, but bike's wiring knowledge is required.

Capcaitor - Capacitor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Diode - Diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Heatsink - Heat sink - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

And the basic diagram

Why don't you look here - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...ging-rate.html and here - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...ic-all-dc.html

sometimes the best explanations are made with the simplest and most practical of analogies.

thank you my friend. will digest and come back with more questions.

Glad it helped.

Yes it sure helped.
Well DC lighting is really quite a confusing term.Its useful and better only if it is run directly from the battery as the illumination is constant.

I am currently running an avenger coil (65w) in my p180UG3.I have installed an Osram headlight bulb(not nightbreaker).
The problem is, while using the pass signal, in order to get proper brightness, the pass switch needs to be held for a bit longer than it was before.And does the regulator regulate current to some value??
What exactly is a regulator?I know what a rectifier is. but not regulator.

I am running on stock regulator+avenger coil+65 watt bulb.
Is the regulator proving to be a bottleneck??

I am planning to run the headlight directly off the battery.The fluctuation in brightness is tremendous and at low rpms the headlight is pretty dull.The bulb+reflector+lens kit is brand new.
Rahul can you help??

I had done something similar. IMO, the regulator is the bottleneck here.

Yes the regulator is culprit in such cases. Also does your rectifier heats up? BTW a regulator, regulates the current, it keeps the current as much as stable possible.

And what's the wattage of your Osram bulb?