@ Rahul
Man I dont have a rectifier for the headlight.Everything except the bulb and the coil is stock.
I have avenger coil, Osram 65w bulb and stock regulator circuitry.
The regulator was designed to run a 35 watt bulb right??
So is it capable of running a 65 watt bulb to its full brightness?
Thats precisely my question.
Do I need to make any mods to the regulator circuit to get max brightness or is the stock one is enough??


I want to go for a battery run set up for the headlight so that even if i hold the clutch and close the throttle,the brightness is maximum[there wont be any relation between the rpm and the brightness if it is battery run]

The usual Rectifier, also has a regulator. It's on RH back under the seat.


Now when you have decided to change over to DC (battery), it easy. And yes, even when you press the clutch and close the throttle the light will be constant.

Now for this mod -
(1) You Need make a custom rectifier. - refer -http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bikes/7811-converted-my-pulsar-150-classic-all-dc.html

(2) Cut the wire going to headlight from the coil, and put it thorough custom rectifier.

(3) The wire which you have cut. Coming from the headlight connect it to +ve on battery Via (Switch/Relay).

(4) And Done!.

Problems

(1) Your Bulb Brightness could be less, because your current wiring may be insufficient for 65W and would be the reason for current loss.

(2) In UG3 models, unlike other Bikes, you have stupid device called Body Control Unit or BCU. This prevents the Self Starter from cranking if you bike is on Battery. So the solution is either you put a switch, which opens the ciruit when the bike is off, and after you have started you can use this switch for putting the bike on battery, which almost every body has done, or install a relay like me, who does this job for you.

If you are comfortable and plan to go ahead, all these steps precisely can be explained. Even on the phone, as i'm on a 180UG3 myself.

My current set up is way better than the stock set up.
But still i wanna go for battery run headlight.
Can I have your number?

Also, are you saying that the battery needs 2 rectifiers to charge fully?

So I have to make a new rectifier as shown in the figure in that thread, take the AC supply which used to run the headlight, connect it to the rectifier and connect the output of the rectifier to the battery,so that the battery has two chargers[the stock one and the new modified one. right?
I didn't understand the relay part.Can you please elaborate?the sketch from the thread is not very clear.Also I havent dealt with relays before.


I am sorry for asking so many questions.wiring jobs cost here a lot. So dont wanna mess up the current wiring and dont want a non working headlight.hehe..

My No Is 9844167129

Yes, If you don't put rectifiers, you Battery would be discharging faster then it is getting charged. Remember that currently your bike's battery is getting charged, as required for Self Start, Horn, Turn Indicators, Display unit etc not for the headlight.

Yes, right

See, Relay is optional. It work's just like a switch. That is as the bike is switched is on the AC current going to headlight, apart from going to rectifier will also run the relay. And this relay will Close the circuit, allowing power from the battery to go to headlight.



No problem, I'm glad to share my knowledge. But I would advice you to work on the wiring your self, and trust me if you know how to cut a wire tape it, it's a cake walk, you need not open anything, just LH Panel and the seat!

Actually i know how to cut and join wires.i have done some insane number of jugaads with electronics myself since i was a kid.was working on toy cars back then.now i had even built a custom headphone amplifier for my pc.but i am asking so many questions because i don't know about the wiring in my bike,modifying wiring voids warranty,and the mods should not fail when I'm speeding down a highway.i'm a bit paranoid when it comes to modifying electricals in the bike.also i haven't worked using relays ever.i'm gonna DIY this thing.will keep you posted! Thanx man!

Don't worry dude, I have tested my setup on a 11,000Km 45 Day trip, in -10 degrees to +45 Degrees. Neverfailed Infact I have ridden my bike with this setup on HID for almost 10 hours non-stop!

Wiring is not an issue, but the custom rectifier is. The rectifier has to be perfect.

So do u have HID bi-xenon? Are you running it on a projector setup? Does a HID bulb look like normal Halogen bulbs if projector is absent?

Also will running the relay armature using the AC supply which was meant for the battery cause relay chatter? Can the relay handle the current supplied by the coil at high RPMs? Will the relay get activated by the current supplied by the coil at lower RPMs?

Of course, with my luck, there is just no way, this can be done on a stock RX-135 with a puny 2.5ah battery, right ???

He has done the mods and tested it extensively too. Go ahead and do the same following his circuits.

rahul do u have HID bi-xenon?
How much did it cost?
Are u running it with projector?

my BOSCH HID i just lyin untouched....

kindly suggest a battery ka jugaad which will keep it on for more than 5 kms!

@ Vikram.
Dude have you upgraded the coil to avenger 180's coil?
Also, since you have HID kit, you'll need to convert the headlamp circuit to DC and run it off the battery.
AFAIK you have converted to a battery run headlamp.
Now all you need to do is use the AC line from the coil which used to run the headlight in stock setup to charge the battery. This way you'll have two charging mechanisms for the battery running parallel so that the rate of charging the battery will increase to support the HID kit.

BTW is your HID kit 65watt?
Have you got projector for it too?
How much did it cost?

Yes my HID is bi-xenon, that means it shifts the bulb up and down doe Hi/low beam. And it's on stock head light, and good enough. The bulbs are different than a halogen, but unless you look carefully you will not able to make out the difference in day time. 2 years back I had bought it for 5K, these days you can get it for less than 3K

You need make a bridge rectifier for the relay as well.


Yes the relay will work even at idle RPM and will not burn at higher RPMs.

hm.. a 5 ah battery is at least needed. And the coil needs to generate at least 35W!

Your battery is dying because it's getting drained, before it can recharge. What you need to do is simply use power of headlight to charge the Battery, and than run you HID directly off the battery, and than your battery won't die ever!

^^+100

Even I told him the same.
@Vikram refer to the above discussions and follow the links provided. You'll know what to do if you have ever cut and joined wires.


@Rahul
Man I am finally done with exams and shit. Now will start on the project.
Today morning I checked out the wirings under the seat.I saw the cable coming from the stator plate.
Man it has 6 wires.
Which ones do i have to run through the rectifier?
I will start with building the rectifiers.
Do I have to use generalised Circuit board or get a copper or glass epoxy ckt board and etch the circuit using FeCl??