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Originally posted by abhijeet080808
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Precisely! Check whether the battery is charging properly.Been There, Done That; Better! -
ok....the dimming does occur even if the brake is pressed. so thats another load added.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
so as per your above post, the flasher is not faulty. so that brings me back to my original question, i.e. - when the brake lights and flashers are on the battery, while the headlight is on AC, why should the headlight dim when brakes are applied or flasher is activated ???
also, about this battery charging thing. i noticed one more thing. its a brand new battery as i mentioned. already, the horn is not sounding as loud as it was a few days back when i had just installed the new battery.
so, how exactly do i go about checking the battery charging ???
thanks for your replies guys.There once was a woman who was quite begat.
She had three babies named Nat, Pat, and Tat.
She said it was fun in the breeding,
But found it was hell in the feeding
When she saw there was no tit for Tat.Comment
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Not too sure about that. A circuit diagram would have helped!Originally posted by hell_glider View Post
To check for battery charging, connect a multimeter to the battery terminals and read the voltage. It should read above 11V at least. While revving the engine this reading should increase - ideally to 13.8V.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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In theory, on most of the bikes there are separate coil and regulator for headlight. A wiring diagram is necessary.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Dont use the term flashers
people....
They're called turn indicators i guess......flashers implies something else
Hey Rahul your circuit diagram has a spst switch...
Is that necessary or just an alternative to the relay? you have shown all that together.
How did you mount the heatsink without using a board?
i have almost built the circuit. What gauge wires have you used? I know it requires wiring thicker than the current but exactly what gauge?Comment
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--(SPST Switch is not mandatory, but desirable. This swtich can be hidden somewhere. There are uses for it. First in case the Relay, fails, you still have a fail safe way! and second, you can use your lights even when the bike is off, though it will draw lot of battery.Originally posted by pavanchirmade View PostDont use the term flashers people....
They're called turn indicators i guess......flashers implies something else
Hey Rahul your circuit diagram has a spst switch...
Is that necessary or just an alternative to the relay? you have shown all that together.
How did you mount the heatsink without using a board?
i have almost built the circuit. What gauge wires have you used? I know it requires wiring thicker than the current but exactly what gauge?
--BCU is Body Control Unit, before your current can go to headlight it passes through a black box, similar to a CDI which controls all the electrical stuff. Just understand it a the wire from and to Headlight.
--From DC Source, is basically Battery.
--You can make use of normal house wiring. Not very thick but even a thin copper wire will do.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Heatsink Housing
Looks like this
Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Everybody i have successfully got it done. Now I have DC headlights..
All thanks to rahul.
i have got one question: In how much time will a 65watt bulb drain the battery?Comment
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I assume you got the rectifier made too. In that case, battery will not drain - this is from my personal experience.Originally posted by pavanchirmade View PostYour biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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Glad it's working.Everybody i have successfully got it done. Now I have DC headlights..
All thanks to rahul.
i have got one question: In how much time will a 65watt bulb drain the battery?
A 65W bulb will eventually drain battery, even with the rectifier, especially if you ride only during nights for say combined time of 8 hours! But the good thing is that even if your battery dies out or even you don't have a battery the 65W bulb will not shut off, but only decrease in intensity, to what you had before this setup, still better.
But in case if you are riding is balanced say 3 hours, day and 3 hours night daily. You shouldn't be having problem.
Though you should at the least consider changing your 2 NO.s Pilot Lamp and if possible 1 No.s Rear Number Plate bulbs to LEDs. That will save you around 12W.Last edited by rahuldevnath; 06-16-2009, 03:30 PM.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Ya i'll do that. I wasnt able to find high voltage LEDs. all the ones available here run on max 4.5v. I guess a series combination of LEDs should work fine at 12v right?Comment
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My battery does not drain. I have ridden only with light ON for the past weeks - around 2 hrs a day. But yeah, I have changed to LEDs.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View PostGlad it's working.
A 65W bulb will eventually drain battery, even with the rectifier, especially if you ride only during nights for say combined time of 8 hours!
But in case if you are riding is balanced say 3 hours, day and 3 hours night daily. You shouldn't be having problem.
Though you should at the least consider changing your 2 NO.s Pilot Lamp and if possible 1 No.s Rear Number Plate bulbs to LEDs. That will save you around 12W.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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Here are some picsComment
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^^^ You have soldered the connections too, right? Else they usually come loose even with the m-seal.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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Which ones are you talking about abhijeet? I havent used M-seal anywhere.Comment
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