The first pic? I though it looked like mseal at the connections between diodes. Soldered them?

Thats not M seal buddy, its a heat shrink tube.I have used more robust connectors than solder.I connected the diodes using connectors and so it was easy to connect the wires too. It has screws to secure the wires and terminals in place. You put in the terminals and the wires and tighten the screws. Works gr8. and the heat shrink tube makes sure that the screws and everything is protected from atmosphere
Attached is a pic of the connectors

Ok.. got it.. it will work great! And that is a really bad a$$ heatsink there!

hell yeah. that heatsink is full copper! Took it out from an old HP CPU [non working].Not junking to old CPU finally paid off!

HA HA HA!!! Evene I Thought what's it exactly! But M-Seal

And the heat sink is awesome.. Now only liquid cooling remains!!

Can anyone here help me with a DC conversion for the RTR. Want to do this so i can run a higher wattage bulb or maybe a HID. Anyone in bangalore done this or does anyone know someone in bangalore that can help me out?

Dude you can go for this kind of circuit on your bike too..

I dont mean that you can incorporate the exact circuit n all.Dunno if the RTR has a dcu or not.
But i have read somewhere that the TVS APACHE RTR has a 90 watt coil. Check on this.
If you have such a high rating coil then all you need is to replace the bulb with a high wattage bulb. Else if you wanna run HID, tou can hook a rectifier in between headlight and the coil so that the supply to the headlight is DC.

If you want a battery run headlight, trace the wires from the coil which run to the headlight[ ie: the ones connecting the headlight to the coil], cut it midway and connect the wire that comes from the headlight to the battery and VOILA: you have Battery run headlight.


From this setup if ever you find that the battery drains faster than it gets charged, use the original wire which comes from the coil[the one which was cut,which used to run the headlight in stock setup] to build a rectifier for a parallel battery charging mechanism to charge the battery faster.


Although I have never done this myself and I dont have any idea about the glitches you'll face while doing this, this is pretty much a rough plan of what you gotta do.

We had a problem of the starter not working when headlight was run off the battery due to the idiotic DCU in pulsar UG3s[If you read the entire thread, you'll understand]

Summary: Run the headlight via battery and use the coil headlight wire to run a rectifier to charge the battery.

Thanx buddy!
liquid cooling?? Oh cmon guys, its not a quadcore processor!!


@ Rahul: Buddy have you too converted the number plate lights to LED?
Is the supply there DC or AC?Is it illegal to run without that light?

Yeah, it is actually illegal.. but who cares here in India. And it is originally on AC. Didn't you use the rectifier for the whole AC ckt? So, now it should be running on DC.

Yes as Abhi said, it's illegal. So If just replace it with a LED or a 2W Splendor's pilot lamps it will be fine. And BTW now it should be on DC!

I have replaced my 2 pilot lamps to Blue LEDs. But i have a HID which is consuming only 35W compared to your 65W. And even with everything I had my HID fully shutting off. This was between Shrinagar to Udamphur. The whole route is through mountains. Thus slow speed with frequent braking meant that the battery was not charging. And finally switched off itself. Compared to that your 65W bulb atleast won't switch off.

I have one advantage there. My bike is Pulsar 150 Classic. Bulb is 60W from 35W. Extra load is 25W. I saved 3Wx3 (instrumentation console) + brake light (5W) + pilot lamp (5W) = 19W by using LEDs (except pilot lamp - removed it). So extra load now is 6W which is not that much to cause any problem.

@ rahul
what are you talking about? your 35watt hid switched off and you say that my 65 watt wont switch off? how come? i dont get it.

HID's do'nt dim much, they shut off. So when the battery if even slightly dies out HID will shut off, unlike your normal bulb which will still work on the power it's getting from the coil! Infact your bulb will still glow even if it's getting 10 Watts!

Ok.
Found something new to worry about


Taken from wikipedia article :
The rectifier is giving an output of 20V to 22V. We are way past the gassing threshold.
I had connected the multimeter positive directly to the rectifier output[ie: the output of the custom rectifier was not connected to the battery at the time of testing]. Did that make the multimeter show 22 v?
Tell me since how long are you running this setup? Do you ever ride in the day?Are you too running avenger coil?

I had checked my voltage which hovered around 35-40Volts. I'm using the stock coil though. Theoritically my battery is getting overcharged. I had to replace my stock battery within 20 months of this setup. I changed to Amaron Maintenance Free, after that, which is perfectly fine after 6 months of usage! It has 5 years warranty though. And yes, I ride almost 1 hour daily at the least, and even less in nights these days!