Look, connect the rectifier o/p to battery and measure it across the battery terminals and see. It should be be around 13.8V now. If yes, then do not worry, it is working properly. This higher voltage readings occurs due to spiking. If you are interested I can explain how.

@Rahul - What voltage do you get across the battery? Same 35-40V?

@abhijeet
technical info is always welcome.

So the excessive voltage seen is not due to my avenger coil right?
I too will switch to amaron once this battery dies. Even if the new battery dies due to my jugaad, i will get a replacement under warranty!!

The regulator used in out bikes maintains a specific voltage level by short circuiting the stator coil outputs to ground for a short time. Say coil generates 30V and we need only 13.8V, regulator will short circuit the coil to ground if voltage is detected to be above the 13.8V threshold. It short circuits for a short time only bringing the voltage just to below 13.8V. Then it allows the stator to generate power. Now voltage again tends to rise above the limit. So short circuiting occurs once again and the cycle continues. This means the output is not smooth but consists of a series of spikes. This is why we see pulsating headlight beam at idle. Some of these spikes are up to 20-30V. When we use a capacitor in the custom rectifier circuit, the capacitor "accumulates" the energy of the spikes and the voltage across the capacitor rises to around 20-30V. When we connect the battery or any load, it absorbs these spikes and we see the normal mean voltage given out by the custom rectifier. Also if you remove the capacitor, you will see around 14V only.

And another thing, the capacitor is not really needed in the circuit - the battery itself acts as a giant capacitor!

ofcourse not.. settles down at 14 V!

Then, everything is working as they should!

mine too settles at 14V.Working fine now.Tested for many half hour night runs. the heat is not that much. The badass heatsink helps i guess. But I have to mount it under the seat now.Any ideas?

There is space around the tail piece (where 150/180 is written). I mounted it there. Fix it with some glue like Anabond/Dendrite

Guys, My BCU has gone kaput, costing me 1300 bucks. Now there's no specific reaseon but thought just to update. Initially thought that my DC changeover has caused it. Later, Came to know, it's quiet common.

I'm pissed of because i have to shell out 1300 bucks, y can't they keep things simple.

Just for the details, the only problem i was facing that my headlight was continuously, that is the switch has no effect on it!

And the worst part is that you cannot put any jugaad as it's a sealed solid state unit!

But after all, I was relived that my HID setup is fine!

You can change over to UGII wiring. Only the contact less switches would need to be changed to older ones. If the BCU is giving other probs, you may want to change over. Else, just replace it.

Reverting to older wiring, will also be costly. And worst part is the problem itself is very small, but one can't do anything to BCU! As all the switches just work to switch on the solid state relays!

How about opening up the BCU? But it is covered in epoxy - m-seal like material. You will need acetone to melt it away.

Hey by this do you mean, the headlight stays ON no matter the handlebar switch is @ OFF or ON position??What was the reason for the BCU going kaput?

Yeah, forgot to ask. How exactly did you unlock this new feature - Daytime Running Light?

Yes. In fact it stays on even when the ignition is off, just that on a stock bike AC power will not come until coil come alive, but in our case the battery can be switched on!

There's no apparent reason. SC guy said, ppl have to change the BCU for some stupid reasons like one indicator not working! and it's common, just that most they are under warranty, unlike me!

Yeah, It's a cheat code! You will never know, how a pulsar will surprise you!

So how do you turn em off?