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Originally posted by pavanchirmade
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I would getting the BCU tomorrow only. Till then, I just remove the FUSE of HID in the day time, and install it by sun down!
Been There, Done That; Better! -
Any specific reasons for your BCU goin dead? Isn't there any workaround for this?
Can't we just bypass the BCU?
BTW is it called the BCU[Body Control Unit] or DCU[Digital Control Unit]??
When you'll get a new one just check out the exact name of the part and the part number from the BOX.Comment
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There's no specific reason as such. It happens randomly. There's no workaround, unless you change the wiring and switches. I spent almost 6 hours figuring the circuit system. Basically it's IC based. When you push the switch of headlight, it closes the circuit inside the bcu. The switches doesn't have any contact with the actual current going to headlight, engine etc. It's quiet complex, and even if I somehow open the BCU, which I will eventually do, I doubt one can replace the IC.Originally posted by pavanchirmade View Post
BTW it's called Body Control Unit, but in part number it's know as something called electrical switching control.. or something similar. I will take a look tomorrow.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Damn Rs.1300 is kinda expensive, ain't it?Comment
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I guess it's the costliest electrical unit in the bike!
Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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I have heard about the UGIII CDI costing 1.5k?Originally posted by rahuldevnath View PostI guess it's the costliest electrical unit in the bike!
Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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WTF? CDI for 1.5k?
Tell me how much will a custom fully programmable CDI cost? The one they use in Pulsars abroad?Comment
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No idea mate. Maybe around 5k.Originally posted by pavanchirmade View Post
Pulsars have 3 CDIs. 1st one is Analog CDI (Original models) (Around 300 bucks). 2nd one is Digital CDI (UGI, UGII) (600 bucks). 3rd one is Digital with maps (UGIII).
Is my info correct? A dealer told me!
Edit - Found in the Service Manuals for UGIII!
UGII CDI - CDI unit has only digital signaling.
UGIII CDI - For easy kick starting the ignition timing has been
optimised by introducing analogue signaling to CDI
unit till 3000 rpm & thereafter digital signaling.Last edited by abhijeet080808; 06-21-2009, 06:51 PM.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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No.. it's 850 bucks!Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostI have heard about the UGIII CDI costing 1.5k?
Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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I recently wrapped the badass heatsink and rectifier setup inside a plastic bag to avoid water splash. i had given the bike for washing before that and the starter wouldn't run after that. so I wrapped both the circuits in 2 diff plastic bags.
I had some rides in the city itself. No more than 10 kms.Everything was fine[i guess]
Now yesterday I went on a rather long trip.[200 kms total travel :to be precise]
Today I opened the seat for something, i saw the wire running from the rectifier to the battery had burnt.It had blisters all over its insulation. The wire is quite thick. It is from a household wire bobbin.So I am sure that the wire did't burn because of heavy current passing.
I have installed the heatsink such that it firmly touches the body of the diodes like it is done for processors.Is this correct cooling arrangement?
This was my first long trip since the mod. So don't know if the plastic bag make it burn or is it something else?Comment
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Of all of this, for sure circuit has shorted. As you said the wire which you are using is of higher gauge. Only very heavy current, like shorting of 9Amp can burn it. Now, this may be harmful to your battery as well.Originally posted by pavanchirmade View PostI recently wrapped the badass heatsink and rectifier setup inside a plastic bag to avoid water splash. i had given the bike for washing before that and the starter wouldn't run after that. so I wrapped both the circuits in 2 diff plastic bags.
I had some rides in the city itself. No more than 10 kms.Everything was fine[i guess]
Now yesterday I went on a rather long trip.[200 kms total travel :to be precise]
Today I opened the seat for something, i saw the wire running from the rectifier to the battery had burnt.It had blisters all over its insulation. The wire is quite thick. It is from a household wire bobbin.So I am sure that the wire did't burn because of heavy current passing.
I have installed the heatsink such that it firmly touches the body of the diodes like it is done for processors.Is this correct cooling arrangement?
This was my first long trip since the mod. So don't know if the plastic bag make it burn or is it something else?
What could be the reasons for shorting?
(1) Most probably, Water entered.
(2) Is the heat sink secure? I mean I hope it's not conducting the current to either cathode of the diode, or even anywhere in the body of the bike. It can happen that heat sink did shorted the circuit.
It can be either of the two reasons, or both.
What can be done?
Open the circuit, and analyse. Make a new circuit, but for sure keep a fuse. 5Amp Fuse would do.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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suggest me a good waterproofing technique.Also is it necessary to use the terminals of the diodes for heat dissipation? Can't we use diode body?
I had made it in such a way that the diode body was pressed against the heatsink base. I had verified that each diode body is touching the heatsink well.Comment
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use a small plastic box to pack the circuit in it .. cover the holes from where the wires come out with mseal and face them downwards.. also .. i dont suppose diodes need any kind of heat sink.. but as the battery amperes are very high regular household wire wont do .. use a high gauge copper wire instead.. ever noticed battery terminals are connected using such a thick wire.. becuase they get heated a lot.. lot more then the diode itself..Originally posted by pavanchirmade View PostComment
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If you all the diodes are touching the heatsink, it can be conducting hence short circuit. Let the heatsink touch just one of the polarity not both. Use a small plastic box to accommodate the the rectifier unit. In fact initially i had made use of a Film Roll box, which is cylindrical in shape.Originally posted by pavanchirmade View Post
If the wire is copper, I don't think they should heat up.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Dude I had made double sure that none of the diode terminals touch the heatsink. only the diode's black body touched the heatsink.The wire I used was thicker than the ones coming from the coil. So is the thickness of the wire acceptable? Or should I get even thicker wires?That day I was riding at constant 95-98km/h for almost 2 hours.Also just the wire going from the custom rectifier to the capacitior and the wire going from the capacitor to the battery is burnt. all other wires are safe.
Here are some pics of the burnt wires.
@ Rahul, see the last pic. Is this thick wire enough or should i use even thicker wires?Last edited by pavanchirmade; 06-27-2009, 06:23 PM.Comment
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