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**sajjt** · 11-17-2009, 04:31 PM

Originally posted by abhilashabhi12 View Post

Hmm I think I am confusing.. what I have is Skoda Horn ( as in what Skoda cars sound like) I am not very sure since I got this from one of my friend who said it is Imported from Singapore

anyway Its working fine for almost 7yrs what more do i want

Thats Wind tone I guess, it takes hardly 2A else, it wont honk but there r bigger ones for cars takes more than 4A. And for 7 yrs is really a good time as mine bursted within 2 year.

**rookster** · 11-17-2009, 06:23 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

If u rewind the coil, how will it affect the batt?

Ur stock RR wont let the extra power to the batt any way.The extra power generated can be used for the HL without any issues. As per others in the forum, there are many choosen this for years, and no issues till date.

SO ur saying that after rewinding and then installing a 55/60 bulb the batt will be able to take the load on AC current (coz i havent converted to dc) ???
Let me knw ?

And the main reason for my worry was that the mech told me that after doing such transformation i wont be able to use the HL for long and it will drain out the batt in the initial 15 mins only.
Is this true ?

**sajjt** · 11-17-2009, 07:12 PM

Originally posted by rookster View Post

SO ur saying that after rewinding and then installing a 55/60 bulb the batt will be able to take the load on AC current (coz i havent converted to dc) ???
Let me knw ?

And the main reason for my worry was that the mech told me that after doing such transformation i wont be able to use the HL for long and it will drain out the batt in the initial 15 mins only.
Is this true ?

No you've got a wrong conclusion. I never said u go for DC conv. Do the rewinding only, the extra current produced by the alternator will be fed for the 55W and your DC charging is untouched because u r still on the stock RR. I have checked this with my electrician, he says no RR change is required.

He's right but refering to the DC conversion, in ur case, DC converison is not required for a Halogen and light power is from the alternator only not from the batt, so nothing will get affected. Put a relay in between the bulb and the stock switch to save the switch and will get the optimum perfo from the bulb. Go for a branded bulb like Osram or Philips, bit costly but worth to invest.

**rookster** · 11-17-2009, 07:25 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

Put a relay in between the bulb and the stock switch to save the switch and will get the optimum perfo from the bulb

Thanks for the info buddy but i cudnt get this part.

**Shreeni0403** · 11-17-2009, 07:33 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

No you've got a wrong conclusion. I never said u go for DC conv. Do the rewinding only, the extra current produced by the alternator will be fed for the 55W and your DC charging is untouched because u r still on the stock RR. I have checked this with my electrician, he says no RR change is required.

He's right but refering to the DC conversion, in ur case, DC converison is not required for a Halogen and light power is from the alternator only not from the batt, so nothing will get affected. Put a relay in between the bulb and the stock switch to save the switch and will get the optimum perfo from the bulb. Go for a branded bulb like Osram or Philips, bit costly but worth to invest.

Arre oo Sajan bhai, u gotta wear spects or change lens asap

He has written the same, he has not converted to DC so he can run 55/60w on AC after rewinding is what he meant.

But only thing is, battery wont be taking any load. AC current comes directly from coil to battery via regulator.

Originally posted by rookster View Post

Thanks for the info buddy but i cudnt get this part.

Relay is not needed for running on AC or probably relay wont function on AC - afaik. (Sajan reconfirm)

Putting relay is something like putting cut-out to horns.
The power supply is always fed to relay from battery and your switch turns on / off only the relay. So ur switch assembly will be safe as the load of relay is on switch, not the bulb.

**sajjt** · 11-17-2009, 07:34 PM

Originally posted by rookster View Post

Thanks for the info buddy but i cudnt get this part.

U need to put a relay to save ur stock switch as u r going to use a higher watt bulb,it wont go fast, but it wont last long. And another benefit is u will get the optimum brightness from up the bulb. Relay will take the load from the switch to power the bulb. Any electrician can do the job, they will say it will last, but if u are keen on the cost part insist them to do. Even if u've some idea, u too. If u use a thicker guage wire to the bulb from the RR it would be well and good, diff will be very evident. Is ur bike under warranty? Then dont do any mods and wait for till it expires.

**rookster** · 11-17-2009, 07:49 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

U need to put a relay to save ur stock switch as u r going to use a higher watt bulb,it wont go fast, but it wont last long. And another benefit is u will get the optimum brightness from up the bulb. Relay will take the load from the switch to power the bulb. Any electrician can do the job, they will say it will last, but if u are keen on the cost part insist them to do. Even if u've some idea, u too. If u use a thicker guage wire to the bulb from the RR it would be well and good, diff will be very evident. Is ur bike under warranty? Then dont do any mods and wait for till it expires.

In all it means that il have an xtra switch for the light to cut off the load on stock switch ??

N no worries, my bike is done wid its warranty.

**sajjt** · 11-18-2009, 01:22 PM

Originally posted by rookster View Post

In all it means that il have an xtra switch for the light to cut off the load on stock switch ??

N no worries, my bike is done wid its warranty.

Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post

Arre oo Sajan bhai, u gotta wear spects or change lens asap

He has written the same, he has not converted to DC so he can run 55/60w on AC after rewinding is what he meant.

But only thing is, battery wont be taking any load. AC current comes directly from coil to battery via regulator.

Relay is not needed for running on AC or probably relay wont function on AC - afaik. (Sajan reconfirm)

Putting relay is something like putting cut-out to horns.
The power supply is always fed to relay from battery and your switch turns on / off only the relay. So ur switch assembly will be safe as the load of relay is on switch, not the bulb.

@Shreeni,
No man just wanna make it clear in a simpler way, as I told u earlier, its not for u techies

I learnt all these like these discussions, so let it be as simple as we can.

Its already clarified yar, cause once u said RR change is required, but yday my electrician confirmed no RR swap for rewinding for halo upgrade,ur electrician must be wrong. He said one more thing about rewinding like some sound issues are there, yet to overcome dont know what exactly it is.

U try without a relay for 1 month and open the swtich assy contacts, u can see the spark patches on the contacts of the PCB side. The more patches less conduction. I've soldered twice to level these but lead wont last like copper contacts. To be honest, I havent tried a 55/60 yet. Relay wont work with AC but u've got a batt to power up relay, but I am 4 sure that the diff will be very evident as I used both setups. Stock switch is not conducting the full current like a relay try out with wire loop test. If u use a thicker wire u will get more out from the bulb in case of a 90/100W. Stock harness wires are very thin ones.

Rooskster, u dont need an addnl switch for this if ur warranty is over.
Any electician can do the job with a 10A DPDT relay costs 50-80 max. with a min wire cuts. Ur High/Low will be operated from the stock switch only, diff is, load will not given to the switch, it will be taken care of the relay which is located inside the fairing. Make sure that no chance of water getting inside of it. Or choose for a sealed type.

**Shreeni0403** · 11-18-2009, 06:25 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

@Shreeni,
No man just wanna make it clear in a simpler way, as I told u earlier, its not for u techies

I learnt all these like these discussions, so let it be as simple as we can.

Meet me once man, I will make sure you wont comment like that again.

**sajjt** · 11-18-2009, 06:52 PM

Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post

Meet me once man, I will make sure you wont comment like that again.

I look forward to it yar after all u r not that far from here. One fine day I'll catch u.

**rookster** · 11-18-2009, 11:19 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

@Shreeni,
No man just wanna make it clear in a simpler way, as I told u earlier, its not for u techies

I learnt all these like these discussions, so let it be as simple as we can.

Its already clarified yar, cause once u said RR change is required, but yday my electrician confirmed no RR swap for rewinding for halo upgrade,ur electrician must be wrong. He said one more thing about rewinding like some sound issues are there, yet to overcome dont know what exactly it is.

U try without a relay for 1 month and open the swtich assy contacts, u can see the spark patches on the contacts of the PCB side. The more patches less conduction. I've soldered twice to level these but lead wont last like copper contacts. To be honest, I havent tried a 55/60 yet. Relay wont work with AC but u've got a batt to power up relay, but I am 4 sure that the diff will be very evident as I used both setups. Stock switch is not conducting the full current like a relay try out with wire loop test. If u use a thicker wire u will get more out from the bulb in case of a 90/100W. Stock harness wires are very thin ones.

Rooskster, u dont need an addnl switch for this if ur warranty is over.
Any electician can do the job with a 10A DPDT relay costs 50-80 max. with a min wire cuts. Ur High/Low will be operated from the stock switch only, diff is, load will not given to the switch, it will be taken care of the relay which is located inside the fairing. Make sure that no chance of water getting inside of it. Or choose for a sealed type.

Thanx a lot for all of this.
Today i had been to another mech and to my surprise he said that no rewinding is required for a 55/60 bulb and it can be done without putting stress on the battery by putting a "cut off "(of which i have no idea)
Now as compared to ur knowledge i think the guy is clueless of everything and hardly knows nethng, so what do u suggest, should i buy a 55/60, install it n see whats the outcome or nething from ur side ??????

And should i stick to AC or get converted to DC ?

**rookster** · 11-18-2009, 11:24 PM

And one more thing buddy, whom should i actually go to for a rewinding(if at all i have to do it) a mechanic or an electrician who sits on a hardware store ????

**sajjt** · 11-19-2009, 12:08 PM

Originally posted by rookster View Post

Thanx a lot for all of this.
Today i had been to another mech and to my surprise he said that no rewinding is required for a 55/60 bulb and it can be done without putting stress on the battery by putting a "cut off "(of which i have no idea)
Now as compared to ur knowledge i think the guy is clueless of everything and hardly knows nethng, so what do u suggest, should i buy a 55/60, install it n see whats the outcome or nething from ur side ??????

And should i stick to AC or get converted to DC ?

Originally posted by rookster View Post

And one more thing buddy, whom should i actually go to for a rewinding(if at all i have to do it) a mechanic or an electrician who sits on a hardware store ????

As I said earlier, there are lot of fools everywhere who makes these type of senseless suggestions. If u read this thread once, u will get a clear idea of what exactly is a cut out/relay and u wont go near to that idiot once again for these type of assistance. For lighting up a higher watt bulb, u need extra power from the coils, now the coils are not that powerful enough to feed that. So use ur common sense and decide what to do.

I have already answered to this, if u want to go for a halogen upgrade, u need to go for coil rewinding, no other change is required. No DC conv too. This can be done from your local auto electrician or ask him about the details who is doing this kind of jobs at ur place.

**rookster** · 11-19-2009, 08:19 PM

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

As I said earlier, there are lot of fools everywhere who makes these type of senseless suggestions. If u read this thread once, u will get a clear idea of what exactly is a cut out/relay and u wont go near to that idiot once again for these type of assistance. For lighting up a higher watt bulb, u need extra power from the coils, now the coils are not that powerful enough to feed that. So use ur common sense and decide what to do.

I have already answered to this, if u want to go for a halogen upgrade, u need to go for coil rewinding, no other change is required. No DC conv too. This can be done from your local auto electrician or ask him about the details who is doing this kind of jobs at ur place.

Thank you so much once again, il definitely hunt for a better mech this time around to get it done.

One more thing buddy, if at all i dont get any required help for the upgrade and stuff then do i have better options for the 35w bulb, like better illuminating bulbs of the same wattage or something like dat ????

**sajjt** · 11-20-2009, 12:23 PM

Originally posted by rookster View Post

Thank you so much once again, il definitely hunt for a better mech this time around to get it done.

One more thing buddy, if at all i dont get any required help for the upgrade and stuff then do i have better options for the 35w bulb, like better illuminating bulbs of the same wattage or something like dat ????

U still have the DC lighting option with the current setup if your batt is in good condn. But all that depends on the how long u will get the backup from a 7AH, max 1hr I hope.

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