Query Approved.

Well you need a full brake overhaul. Take it to a good workshop, where they will drain the brake fluid, re-set the pads and the caliper, and then put fresh brake oil, Also bleeding of the brake oil is necessary so that there are no bubbles. The spongy feel could be because of that. A tiresome process, but then your brake would be as good as new in no time.

its quite dangerous to ride with badly bled brakes. on top of it, the brake fluid is (hydro)?scopic. that means any moisture in the air bubbles will get absorbed in the fluid, changing its properties and lowering the boiling point.

it seems like a straightforward bleeding issue.

Thank you for the quick replies.

Is it possible that i can do it? Will a Bajaj service center do?

I got this bike out of storage in Nov begining. After that i have serviced it in a Bajaj shop where they probably only changed the oil. Then at a local mech the carby was cleaned because the fuel line was leaking . (The fuel line was loosened for draining fuel before a train journey.) Then to another local mech who fixed most of the probs, i hope. And then back to him 3 more times for the brake. Now im afraid to ride bcuz the brake locks up sometimes after i engage it!!!! Dont want an accidental stoppie like "Yes Man". Im pretty new (very bad) at riding.

i suppose it would be best for you to take the bike to a service station for the brakes.

i took it to the authorised BAJAJ service station yesterday, and asked them to drain and replace the hyd fluid. when i went to pick it up, they said the cleaned the pads and changed the engine oil!!!

when i asked the mech to replace the hyd fluid right then, as i feel there might be air inside he took the bike inside brought it out after 10 min and said there are no bubbles coming in the reservoir so there is no air.

the brake doesn't seem to be locking up any more and the disk is not heating up. but is still feels spongy though. and the wheel is sticking, it does not spin as freely as the rear.

and this one takes the cake, when i checked the oil level today it is above the max, by about as much as the level between the min and max lines!!!!

mechs dont like draining the brakes because its very time consuming and boring.

sometimes, you got to do it yourself if you got to do it right. read any (disk braked) bikes service manual to learn how to do it, and do it yourself.
understand the concept of bleeding well before you even touch the bleed nipple.

its not that hard once you get the hang of it. you will need at least 2 attempts to get it right. thats 15 minutes for each attempt. you will know you have got it right when you feel the brake lever going hard within 20 brake applications after you assemble the reservoir lid.

go very slow and gentle while pumping the lever during the bleed. or else, you will have a fountain of corrosive brake fluid landing on you of the paintwork. that will also prevent putting in new bubbles into the system from top while you bleed bubbles from the bottom.

i prefer tvs girling dot 4 fluid. get it from a car parts shop. they have 250ml bottles for topping up the car brakes.

patience is the key.

cant explain the entire process here as its too long. hope the tips help.

Help is here

+1 to dot 4 fluid.
friend,u r exactly stating the pains what i went through my experiance with my pulsy 180 ug2.hell it seems like exact action replay to me.
IF U R NEW TO BIKES,DONT ENGAGE TO OPEN UP THE DISK ASSEMBLY CALIPER SETUP,ITS QUITE SERIOUS JOB AS ,WELL ITS THE ONLY WEAPON THAT STOPS U.
MY BIKE IS RUNNIN BUTTER SMOOTH ,TOUCH WOOD,BUT EVEN 1 YER BACK ITS A ROUGH THING IN FRONT BRAKES.......

U NEED TO ...
CHANGE THE BRAKE OIL TO DOT 4,TRUST ME ITS BEST,DOTT 4 ONLY IMPROVE THE FEEL.

ALLIGNMENT OF THE BRAKE DISK,SHOULD BE EVEN EVERY WHERE.

PADS SHOULD HAVE THE MIDDLE DIVIDER LINE INTACT,AS IT INDICATES THE PADS ARE OK.

CHANGE THE CALIPER BOOT KIT,ITS A RUBBER KIT CONSISTS OF RINGS FOR TWO CALIPERS,AND I LIKE RUBBER PARTS WHICH LOCKS AND DISENGAGES THE DISKPADS AFTER BREAKING.THIS IS REALLY IMPORTENT TO CHANGE THESE OVER A YEAR OR SO AS THESE GETS IN PRETTY BAD SHAPE AND MORE OVER FROM OUTSIDE U CANNOT TELL WHAT IS WRONG WIT THEM,WITH TIME SOMETIMES THEY EXPAND.ITSA MUST TO CHANGE THESE.

DISASSEMBLE THE TOTAL MASTER CYLINDER,CHECK THE MASTER CYLINDER KIT,IF ITS MORE THEN 3 YRS OLD ORN LOOKS OLD CHANGE IT.THIS IS ALSO IMPORTANT.

DONT WASH RUBBER PARTS OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM WITH PATROL,IT DAMEGES THE RUBBER PARTS.

ITS SEEMS TO BE FUNNY BUT WASHING YOUR CALIPERS AND CALIPER MOUNTS ,RUBBERS IF ANY OLD ONE WITH SHAMPOO WATER IS BEST,YES.BUT DRY THEM OUT PROPERLY.

AFTERALL CHECK THE FRONT BREAK LEAVER ,YES THE TRIGGER PART OF IT WHICH PRESS THE MASTER CYLINDER SOMETIMES GET ERODED.

AFTER ALL ASSAMBLE PROPERLY,ADD DOT 4 BREAK FLUID,DRAIN PROPERLY.

NOW PUT THE BIKE ON MAIN STAND ,KEEP THE HANDLE STRAIGHT,STRIKE THE BRAKE PIPE WITH A SCREWDRIVER ,IT WILL ELIMINATE IT FROM ANT TRAPPED AIR IN BRAKE HOSE.

DRAIN ATLEASE A TANKFULL OF BRAKE FLUID WHILE BLEEDING AIR.
WHEN BUBBLES OR FROTHY BREAKOIL COMES OUT ITS AIR,WHEN PUR BREAK OIL COMES OUT FOR A CONSEQUTIVE 5TO 10 TIMES THERE IS NO AIR.

TO DRAIN PUT THE BIKE IN MAIN STAND,TELL SOME ONE TO HOLD DOWN THE BACK OF THE BIKE IT WILL FREE UP THE FRONT WHEEL.NOW
PRESS THE BREAK LEAVER AND PUMP IT ,IT WILL BECOME HEARD,HOLD IT BUT GENTLY NOT WITH TOO MUCH FORCE,
NOW TAKE 11 NO RING WRENCH AND OPEN THE DRAIN NUT OR BLEEDING NUT IN CALIPER JUST 1/4 TH TO 1/2 A TURN,SOME FLUID WILL ESCAPE FROM HERE AND AT THE SAME TIME YOU WILL FELL A SUDDEN LOSS OF RESISTANCE IN BREAK LEAVER AND IT WILL DEPRESS FULLY,AS SOON IT TOUCHES THE HANDLE BAR (FULL PULL OF BREAK LEAVER),THAT MOMENT ONLY U HAVE TO TIGHT THE DRAIN NUT.

AGAIN PUMP,BUILD THE PRESSURE THEN BLEED,

DONT STOP TILL FRESH FLUID COMES OUT FROM BLEEDING NUT.
DONT FORGET TO POUR FRESH BREAK FLUID IN BETWEEN BLEEDING.


AFTER ALL OF THESE,CLOSE EVERY LIDS AND SCREWS,WASH OFF THE BREAKFLUID FROM BIKES BODY AS IT CAN PEEL OF PAINT.

RIDE THE BIKE FOR 10 KMS,THEN RIDE ONE KM STREACH AT 70-80KMS WHILE PRESSING THE FRONT BREAK SLIHGHTLTY ,BY THIS THE HEAT AND FRICTION WILL SET THE BREAK.



BEST OF LUCK

thanx, ill try it and tell you the result. PS what is a "CALIPER BOOT KIT" Where exactly is it located?

Its available in shops. Its called caliper kit major, I guess. It has some assorted rubber seals which needs to be changed.

I meant, where is it located on the brake? Is it marked in the pic? Ill upload a bigger pic of my own.

What is UG2, UG3 , etc...?

if you dont know where the rubber seals are located, you shouldn't try to fix the brakes yourself... yet

get hold of some bikes service manual and see what it says. the manuals are easily available for free on the net if you search for them.

jd666 has the r15 manual link in his signature. that will do. study the construction of the caliper and follow those instructions. the r15 and pulsar calipers are almost identical in construction.

cheers

Thanx. I know where stuff is, as in my 1st post, i have alredy opened it once. I dont know what stuff is called.

If you say "rubber things around pistons inside caliper assy"
but "caliper boot kit"

1) Anyway the bike has just become 2 years old and run 7.6k km. So do i really need to change the boot kit and all?

2) If i do need to change is it Pulsar specific.

I went to an auto parts store and co-incidently got a TVS Girling when i asked for DOT 4.

3)What is UG2, UG3 , etc...? and how do i find mine?

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

boot kit is boot kit ,there is no other name for it no other around thingy,.
rubber parts are extreamly easy to loose there efficiency,some times even in months !!! i assume its easy to change them and follow the points i v told you,that is a close to fool proof way to get it sorted out,otherwise the problem can continue. i assume the mechanics u took ur bike for service did the part of the job without changing them and u see the result ur self!!more over the master cylinder kit can also need a replacement.

pulsar models :::::::------
CLASSIC-THE FIRST ONE TO ARRIVE,WHICH CHANGED THE ENTIRE BIKING SCENARIO AFTER CBZ AFTER SO MANY YEARS HAD ROUND HEADLAMPS,also IT CAME IN THE REMARKABLE ADD "180CC--15BHP--SOLID MUSCULAR STYLING--BAAJAJ PULSAR,DEFIANTLY MALE."
UG1-ALSO THE FIRST UPGRADE FROM CLASSIC,HAD DTSI,BOX SECTION SWING ARMS,BIKINI FARING,LONGER WHEELBASE.STILL SPOKE WHEEL THOUGH.TOP SPEED BEATS EVEN KARIZMA ACCORDIND TO OVERDRIVE THEN!!NOT A GREAT IN PICKUP IN LOW END THOUGH.BHP 16.
UG2-AKA UPGREAD 2,FIRST PULSARS TO COME UP WITH ALLOY WHEELS,A MINOR BUMP IN POWER,16.5BHP,MAJOR BUMP IN LOW END TORQUE WITH THE HELP OF ETEC BOX FROM DISCOVER,CHANGED THE ENTIRE WAY THE BIKE PICKS UP FROM DEAD STOP,ALSO A MINOR INCREASE IN WHEELBASE,BUT FOR 17 INCH ALLOYS THE BIKE LOST A GOOD AMOUNT OF TOP END SPEED.
UG3-AKA THE DIGITAL PULSAR AS SO MANY CALL IT,FIRST DIGITAL SPEEDO IN PULSAR STABLE,LED TAIL LAMPS,CLEAR LENS INDICATORS,NEW MID SECTION ALSO A NEW TAIL PIECE WITH A RATTLING REAR MUDFLAP THAT RATTLES MORE THAN A RATTLE SNAKE,NO POWER INCREASE BUT THE NEW NORMS CHANGED THE FEEL OF ENGINE ,ITS A LOT SMOOOTHER,AND SOUND LESS!!!!
UG4-THE LATEST OF THE FAMILY,FATTER TYRES,CHASSIS FROM 220,FATTER TYRES,FATTER FRONT FORKS ,ALL DC ELECTRICALS,BIGGER FRONT DISK BRAKE.

ALL OF THESE FOR P 180 POINT OF VIEW.
P 150 ALWAYS TOO CLOSE TO 150 ON THE LOOKS AND WERE ALMOST IDENTICAL IN UG 2 AND UG 3 TIMES,ONLY BY LOOKING THE STICKERS AND GEAR SHIFT ONE CAN DISTINGUISH THEM.
ALSO UG 2 HAD A SUB UPGREAD CALLED fear the black EDITION WHICH STARTED THE FAMOUS BLACK TREATMENT ON LOWER CYCLE PARTS.