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Electrical Gurus of Xbhp: Abhijeet, drvmtm(Doctor outside engineer inside), Sajjit, Shreeni -- I gained some knowledge pertaining to bike electricals by reading your posts and got almost all my queries answered, thank you. I still have one doubt unanswered which is

Recall : These are the readings I got when I connected the probes of the MM to the wires which supply power to the Headlamp of Unicorn; I got reversed/negative DC reading and also the voltage dropped at higher RPM's, but the ampere readings were always correct. Anybody please give an explanation. My multimeter is working fine.
I am repeating the question because today in Hero Honda workshop where my Ambition is getting new Cylinder, Camshaft, Camchain, Tensioner, Clutch Plates etc; I took their multimeter and measured the voltage across the output of RR (with the battery connected) and I got normal readings viz. 12.4 @idle to 13.95@medium throttle/RPM since the cylinder is new I didn't rev the engine high. Now I disconnected the battery and again measured the voltage across the output of RR(no load) and I got the readings like 10.3V@idle -- 8V@slight throttle -- 3V@high throttle(didn't care for the new cylinder and piston)
It was almost 8pm and the SVC guys have to close and the mechanic said he would give explanation tomorrow(he was clearly baffled at the readings) but I am not sure.
WHAT does these readings imply and what is the similarity b/w Unicorn's readings and Ambition's? What type of current is this? What is the mechanism?
It's time you have to push your thinking and knowledge to Internals of electronics.
Please donot disappoint me.
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As, I have siad before, multimeter is only able to read stable readings. Without the battery, the o/p is not stable (btw, that can even blow your electricals like horn etc), so MM does not give correct readings.Originally posted by sandeepcf View PostI took their multimeter and measured the voltage across the output of RR (with the battery connected) and I got normal readings viz. 12.4 @idle to 13.95@medium throttle/RPM since the cylinder is new I didn't rev the engine high. Now I disconnected the battery and again measured the voltage across the output of RR(no load) and I got the readings like 10.3V@idle -- 8V@slight throttle -- 3V@high throttle(didn't care for the new cylinder and piston)
It was almost 8pm and the SVC guys have to close and the mechanic said he would give explanation tomorrow(he was clearly baffled at the readings) but I am not sure.
You want to know what the correct readings are, connect it to a CRO. You will see the exact waveform. BTW, if you can do this, you can let us know too!
Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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+1 to what abhi says....Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostAs, I have siad before, multimeter is only able to read stable readings. Without the battery, the o/p is not stable (btw, that can even blow your electricals like horn etc), so MM does not give correct readings.
You want to know what the correct readings are, connect it to a CRO. You will see the exact waveform. BTW, if you can do this, you can let us know too!
a rr used in our bikes and cars use a method to control the voltage is by SHOrTING IT. also a level of load should be present to know the proper readings.
removing the battery and using it can simply conk off things!!
thats why the method of checking the voltage is with a FULLY CHARGED battery.sigpic
RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS.
my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/
IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/
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i was looking for good driving lights for long time for my bikes and cars.i found the ans in amby seal beams.but there was a problem how to use amby seal beam in aux setup.so finally i did some juggads with hero honda cd dawns headlight casing and some angel pattis of pannier boxes and some nut bolts,i made tooooooooo good aux lamps for my scorpio mhawk.please dont kill me for posting the pics
.these are mounted with hid.navnish is the man if you need hids,thank you dear,this mod is dedicated to you.the lights are mounted on bull bar of scorpio,looks too good and most imp its effective.the stock lights are also quite good in scorpio now days but these are simply amazing.i got the idea from trailtech and baja designs.the most imp part is price its dirt cheap,400 rs max with out the hid.it can be used with halogens also.it is fully made of glass so any high watt halogen55/60,90/100,100/130 it can take the heat.it can be dual beam also if the bulb supports.its roughly 7.2 inches in dia.it will fit bulls with ease.i got the idea because i am a biker,else i would have spent 6 k or more on some hella illuminator serise.
i will say def the pics dont do justice.its way way better then the pics




2hidonly
2hid+halo hi
halogen stock lo
halogen stock hi
on action 1
on action
here are some images how i made it.

























sigpic
RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS.
my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/
IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/
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If I connect a load instead of the battery like a bulb, will I get normal readings?As, I have siad before, multimeter is only able to read stable readings. Without the battery, the o/p is not stable (btw, that can even blow your electricals like horn etc), so MM does not give correct readings.
You want to know what the correct readings are, connect it to a CRO. You will see the exact waveform. BTW, if you can do this, you can let us know too!
Yes the output is not stable without the battery - pulses of current. I have read somewhere the battery acts as a capacitor which is like RC filter of a rectifier. I rode the ambition for 1 day without the battery but everything was fine minus the horn and winkers didn't work well with the unfiltered DC o/p of the rectifier.
I don't think just because of the unstable current the MM is giving wrong readings. there must be some explanation with the working of the RR which may be very close to what the doctor said - works only on load. Anna how can a CRO be accessible? It costs thousands.
Exceptional piece of work for Rs.400(400 for one light or 2 lights?) the project will be awarded 10/10so finally i did some juggads with hero honda cd dawns headlight casing and some angel pattis of pannier boxes and some nut bolts,i made tooooooooo good aux lamps for my scorpio mhawk.
which one is better this ambassador reflector or the toyota DCM reflector?
by the way what is the cost of
Amby sealbeam -
CD Dawn Casing -
DCM reflector -
RX casing -
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Originally posted by advghori View PostH! all
I own pulsar 150 dtsi 2005 model.
Can I use Bosch/Mico H4 P43t 60/55 after replacing the coil with avenger 180 or I'll have to make some additional changes?
Thanks
Adv. S.I.Ghori
Yes
Pulsar reflectors are having ratings of 35/35 watts
hence after 6 months of 60/55 watts bulb usage,your headlight reflectors will start turning yellowish and then tend to blacken hence giving poor throw
There is one solution
You have to remove the current headlight fairing and fit round headlight with car headlight reflectors
Here is the setup.
Take a Pulsar round headlight dome and the outer rim of round headlight.
Go for Ambassador/Mahindra Jeep round headlight reflectors
These reflectors fit perfect in Pulsar round headlight rim.
Now you can use Bosch 60/55 watts H4 bulb in these reflectors
I have attached my TVS GLX 125 photo
Just have a look where I fitted a Tata Ace reflector in Pulsar round headlight dome with Bosch 60/55 watts bulb
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Originally posted by advghori View PostThanks Pankaj
Can I use Thunderbird's dome and headlight? do I need to do something more other than replacing the coil with ave 180?
The new Thunderbird twinspark supports a 35/35 watts halogen bulb hence if you put a high power halogen bulb of 60/55 watts,the reflectors will blacken after sometime due to excess heat produced by 60 watts bulb.
And the old thunderbird supports ordinary bulb hence not useful.Such type of bulb is not available in 60/55watts category.
Pulsar dome is bigger than thunderbird dome.Pulsar dome supports 7 inch round headlights of Tata Ace/Mahindra Jeep/Maruti Omni/Ashok Leyland Truck/Ambassador/Bullet classic 350 and 500
Plus the car headlight reflectors have higher watts ratings hence these reflectors can withstand the high temperatures generated by the 60/55 watts bulb.
Out of these headlights,Tata Ace,Mahindra Jeep,Ashok leyland and Bullet supports H4 P43t Type of halogen bulb(new generation H4 halogen bulbs) whereas Maruti Omni/Gypsy round headlight supports P45T type of H4 bulb(The halogen bulb with round plate at the bottom)Last edited by pankajshirke; 07-24-2011, 12:26 AM.
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Conversion on Avenger 200
Hi Folks,
Have been following this thread and reading through all posts. Its kinda too much of an information overload!!
I have a simple question. I own an Avenger 200 and want to upgrade my stock (55/60W) halo to HID (55W 4300k BiXenon). The issue is that its running on AC and I need to get it converted to DC.
As per the different posts, I need to get Ape RR but then few posts suggest that Avenger RR is fine. I am confused as to what exactly I need to do to get my Avenger electricals running on DC!?
Most of the info out here is either for Pulsars, etc. Finding info on Avenger is kinda difficult it seems!
Looking forward to your replies.
-Sank.
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Wan to conver to full DC
guys i own a gs150r i want to go for Full dc setup, i have very less knowledge about electricals as i belong to the commerce (management) field. but i have a passion for bike & here i am .
now as these three great gods here dr. , abhi & sajjt you guys are pure geniuses . i mean it
seriously.
willl get back to you soon.
but does this have any efects on drainage in battery or reduced life of battery ?
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