And I was referring a healthy battery. As per my experience any battery can be well maintained and keep it healthy if we regularly top it up and if we put less load on it. Mine battery is almost 2 years old and I use to maintain it. In these years I never got a 1% problem with my battery. My bike usually kept idle for a week max time. But no loose in power, also it has a security alarm installed which tends to drain battery but I used the self start many times after keeping it idle.

The good thing to judge a battery is to blow the horn, I think. If the battery is dis charged after keeping it idle then you will definitely get low horn sound.

Update/update

i did some modification to reduce the load.
i changed the front position lamps to cool blue leds
i changed the rear break lamp to 5/10 w rating from stock 5/21w.
i changed the rear number plate lamp from stock to a multicolored led.

though before also no problem was there this would furthur clear up some load.

i was kindabusy last few days but today i got all the time i need.
firsyt i went to exide shop ,checked the battery,it was one cell down,going for a new battery tomorrow.exide rs 1600 ,30 months warrenty.

now i was thinking last few days to modify mt hid,i already removed it from bike then my evil brain came into action,a little DO IT YOURSELF for me today.let me start.

'my hid originally lookked like this.....


now i removed the halogen bulb and the shield from the hid..only the hid is there.
\\

i went to market and searched for a rx 100 headlight,got it minda oem 240 inr only.
now i removed the seal beam inside it and started searching for dcm toyota seal beams which were h4 type.finally brought it for 100inr autopal make.
these are straight fit to rx 100s dome,voila a h4 mast relativley small light ready!!!
installed my hid into it.made it fit into left crash guard of my bike. the circit needed to be extended by wire as the hid controller is now sitting below my rear seat as with its cut out.

light is awasome,i fell in love with hids just because of the concentrated nature of the light.the best light i hv seen till date.

ruunung the setup with my 55/60 halogen,the hid is set low and also lower in crashguard,not too much glare.....
if this runs i am too happy. will post pics soon. here is the setup.
now some of you will say it will produce glare but in usa there is some special hid convertion sealbeams are avl like this one.........
http://suvlights.com/popup_image.php?pID=301ℑ=0
my uncle brought a pair for his hummer and i saw these first hand.belive me its same as our good old non clear lence sealbeams like one abhijit is using,like i am using,.even i saw the glare from these are same as our ones so chill.

i will post more pics very soon.

Well,finally i got some free time tonight and i was ready to click some pictures.took the tripod and went to a darker road best to understand the throw. so here it goes...
all the pics taken in manual mode same setting,no enhancement.
here is the dark road for you..

bikes headlamp-55 watt phillips xtream power-low beam.

bikes headlamp-phillips extream power 60watt-high beam.

only hid-dcm toyota sealbeam on rx housing mounted on left crash guard.hid info-make ikodo,h4-2 later i removed the halogen and other unnecessary parts,chinease make,no warrenty,35 watt,6000k,wires extended to keep the ballast under the seat,supplied with a heavy duty relay.

hid+high beam

hid+low beam.

the set up.

Original Video-sorry for the poor quality!

the latest pidc of my set up 2 hid...

HERE ARE THE PICTURES...........................

FRONT VIEW-BIXENON 4300K IN MAIN DOME,6000K IN AUX DOME.

LIGHT CANON ...... JUST A BIT OF EFFECT.....

4300K LOW BEAM.

4300 K HIGH BEAM.

AUX 6000K HID.

6000K+4300K LOW

6000K+4300K HIGH.

the lights are tooo good then the pics above.also 4300k is the one to go for.

Ambition Stator

I want to experiment with coil rewinding. I inquired at some places who rewinds the coils. They said that they have never done anything like that for a motorcycle stator and wanted to see the stator if they can do the job or not. So I opened the stator, but I don't know how and where to disconnect the wires. Please help me.

You must be having a connector outside the coil which connects to wiring harness. Just unplug that and take it to the coil rewinder, he will de-solder and do the rewinding. Use 19 gauge wire for rewinding..

@Shreeni

How could I not think about the connector.......
Went to one person; that jaffa asked Rs.1200. Another one asked Rs.500. Finally found a guy who charges Rs350.
Those guys had never done any rewinding on a Motorcycle stator and all of them said that they cannot take the blame if anything goes wrong. They said they will count the number of turns and replace the windings with a thicker wire as per my wish. so CAN I trust them and go for it? I know it's not Rocket Science but stilllll.....

My actual purpose:
Riding Uni. Not satisfied with lighting---replaced Headlamp with 55w---direct connection from battery---still not happy with highbeams---thinking of adding aux lamp---battery cannot take 100watts of load.

As of now I don't want full DC---got no money to buy APE RR/HID---banking on rewinding. So if I got Uni's stator rewinded with thicker wire can I run 55/60w headlamp with stock RR and stock connections? As Uni's headlamp runs not from the battery but from a separate wire from RR. If that happens I can run an Aux lamp directly from battery.

So should I go for rewinding or NOT?

Ask that guy to fit in as many turns in the coil as possible. Don't wind the exact number of turns! You want the maximum possible juice out of the coil right?so fill it up to the brim.
And,
Answer to the question in bold above is a big NO,
because the stock wiring and switches are not at all designed to take such high loads. You'll have to employ relays. But then again using the current headlight socket wires to switch a relay ON and the relay in turn carrying the heavy current to the headlight bulb is not possible as you are talking about an AC headlight setup which will cause relay chatter. The relay armature vibrates because of the AC feed to the armature winding in the relay. i suggest you go for this tried and tested Ape RR Full DC circuit. Even then you can always revert to stock if you buy a new alternator and plonk it in ur bike connecting it to the stock RR.
Trust me. The Ape RR jugaad really is awesome.

Pavan, I think he's right, wind with a thicker guage in stock manner ie; same or as u said a bit more turns. More winding means more stress to the engine than the thicker wires in stock turns.

Yes, u can use a 55W halo without any relays, belive me, it can withstand that load as long as its in AC. I've been with that setup in my Pulsar for 2 years with no issues. Honda's quality is far better compared to a Bajaj. Once I plonked a 90/100W it seems getting heated so I switched thru a relay but still it ran almost a month or so with the stock switch but with less night rides max of 1 hr every day.

U r right, feed the AC to drive a relay wont work instead, u've a batt under the seat right? Use that for this, I tried the above setup with AC failed and settled with batt.

As an econo mod and only for a 55W Halo, then rewind will surely help without much changes. Do the rewinding first and then see that if anything requires. Uni's got only one coil for batt and lighting, but the RR should be able to handle the extra current more efficiently. I think Shree can contribute to this as he's the dare devil who fiddled with his Uni like anyone in this forum. Hey r u sleeping man?

Full DC conv involves more money RR 1100/+ rewinding 500-700+ wiring mods labour 300+ good halo not prem another 150, 2 SPST relays 80/ so total will be 2000-2350/ where as coil rewinding will take a max of 500/- incl labour.

GO ahead man, it will work for sure. By seeing ur 12 pole alt, my mouth is watering, it can give u a good chunk of power even for 2X55W plus all other lights from those 12 poles.

I Dont think there wud be any stress on the engine or any substantial loss of power as 1hp=746watts.. So if your alternator configuration has an output of say 100 watts then it will absorb only 0.13HP. which is very less!And yes the 55watt bulb works. my post was regarding the use of 100 watt bulbs man! Now that we are rewinding the coil, why settle for a 55watter when you can go for a 100 watter!Also Sajit, can we install somehow by doing some desi jugaad the 12pole coil in our pulsars?

wow,

rewinding a unicorn coil with higher gauge wire with oem rr is a bad bad idea.i have seen various uni s with coil rewinding with stock rr,the results are always bad.the main prob is most likely is due to the rr is already edeged on it load and cant take any more amps in.

Thank you people for your replies.
I am currently running 55/60w headlamp without any relays. I desoldered the wire from RR at the headlight switch and soldered another wire from the battery. No issues with heat at all.That is the reason I addressed my post to him as I am dealing with Uni. I would have taken advice from you, abhijeet etc if I have a pulsar.
That alternator is from my ambition. I want the job to be done on my Uni. I opened it because the rewinding guys wanted to see the thing first. I am about to go ahead with the rewinding until..........The "I ve seen various Uni's with stock RRs" part is bugging me. Because Ive been thinking that semiconductor devices like diodes, transistors can be pushed to the limit when provided with proper cooling.
what should I do?

Pavan, dude why do u want to exert more load than we require evenif its substantial too? Wind with a thicker guage wire in stock manner will give u 100W capability thats my point. U may not be noticing it while riding, but I think on top end speed can be affected by this as per some of the members who've done this. Ofcourse u can use a 100W bulb till it melt the reflector and then u can go back to the safe limit of 55W unless u r on a metal reflector On stock reflector a big no for 100W or u can save money for this.

How can u fit a 12 pole of other stator in the place of a 7+1 pole? How will u rewind the ign coil? Its not that easy as the alt coil. And what about the magnet size and other parameters? Its beyond the scope AFAIK and after all whats ur requirement with a 12 pole 200W alt? With a rewinded coil in 7 poles will guarantee a min of 150W to tap.

Ambition alt is a direct fit with Uni? Or am I mistook in other ways? I do have the same doubt u've raised in case of stock rr. In an RR there's no current limiting component in regulator circuit as the shunting is just to maintain the safe voltage level. Its in the rectification part the current limiting happens in the diodes rating which is after regulation and its only meant for the batt charging. So what ever getting from the coil will be out thru the AC light out. Its the logic, can't confirm as I'vent done anything with a Uni. May be its bcz of its unique design which taps the charging power from the same coil. Any of the Uni owners can vouch for this. Hey Shree where r u man?

@Drvmtm, can u explain what was the issues with stock rr with a rewounded coil?

Sorry for delay. I don't know if I had mentioned this earlier or not. For a DC conversion on Unicorn you don't even need APE RR

Just rewind the coil and feed it as stock, but yes it can't drive 100w bulb but a 55w can be easily done.

How ?

Unicorn's RR takes entire power from Coil. (There is no charging coil, lighting coil separate) Then the RR regulates 40-45w for lighting and supplies it to lighting and the rest to charging. So if you rewind and use stock RR your charging will improve but not the headlight as the RR is designed to regulate 40-45w.

Example -
Stock coil is 125w where it regulates 45w, remaining 80w goes to charging.
After rewinding if you have 195w, 45w to light and rest 150w for charging.

Sorry I don't know the science behind it, electronic experts can answer this