Query Approved

A Piaggio Ape 3 wheeler rectifier unit would work as other members have testified. And for rewinding, use 19 gauge wire.

The APE RR is 1 Phase. So make sure the winding is one phase and not 3 phase. After winding also get DC conversion done. It will make your bike HID ready.
In the stock headlamp assy fixing two HID's isnt possible. It would be better to buy an additional reflector and fix the second HID to the crash guard.

My advice:
If you can manage with 2 HID's just go in for Avenger's stator coil and RR with 9Ah battery. It can easily sustain the load. Getting a person who can do the winding would reliably would be difficult.

^^Ape RR unit with single phase coil will do AC to DC conversion. No need any additional ckts.

The Avy coil is not DC ready. You will need an additional AC to DC converter. Hence not recommended for HIDs.

Ok i dint know this. What about the bikes that are already on DC?

Of course i mean with DC conversion after putting Avy coil.

Thank you sunny sir for approval,sorry for my mistakes earlier with the posts.

This thing will replace the stock rr unit. If the bike is already on DC, or even if it was earlier on AC, after replacement, it will be on DC.

And, as per your earlier 2nd pic, the thing you showed is the trigger coil for the CDI unit. Don't mess with that!

i have some thing to say

wow thank u abhi and rahul for your inputs so fast,i thank u again.
now i will insert some pics and lets take the discussion from there....
lets start with the basic.am i correct to mark the existing coils of ug 2 pulsar?now i need to open up battery coil+headlight coil,correct.
then i have to rewind these 7 poles with 19 gauge wire correct?
it should be in alternate fashion,suppose first one clockwise so next one anticlok wise,correct?
after finhing just add two ends of the coil to ape rr,correct?
then from ape rr via ingnition switch to battery.
then all load from battery,.
Here is a basic diagram,forgive me if it is funny,,,,,i am a novice.
now i have some questions....
1.is 19 gauge is thinner then 20 gauge wire?
2.is it a good idea to leave the old rr (stock),i think it is needed because it will do the rectification of the ignition coil for spark plugs.
3.to abhi,u have changed your tail unit to leds,now i have a stock one,can i go with that as it has 5/21 watt lamp+a head lamp of 90/100w?

any other point to note?feel free to write

Yes, you have to wind those 7 poles in alternate fashion using 19 gauge wire. 19 gauge is what I used. If you want to, you can go a step lower to 18 gauge. It will give even more power at higher rpms, but at lower rpm it is possible that the battery may not be charging enough.

19 gauge wire is thicker than 20 gauge wire.

Old RR unit is not needed. Remove it. CDI ckt is seperate from charging ckt.

As for the tail lamp, you will have to find out and see. It should work w/o any problem. But, I am not 100% sure! Another thing you can do is to use 18 gauge wire to get some more power.

Have a look at my ckt diagram.

some inputs from my side

ok ,didnt know that the cdi unit is different module,its very well and good then.actually i already gave the coil to my electrician and he told it can be done,he loved the idea.he also added that using a thicker gauge wire to rewind in this specific case can be problematic as the space is too small,so its better to stick to tried and tested 19 gauge.yes relays will be needed otherwise the switch will burn of high load,as these units are filmsy.
thanks for ur input abhi brother.
also i am uploading a pic of rr unit of ape i found in the net please mark the terminals.......

sajit sent me one pm last day ,it was like this,

Thanks for the praises, my engine never feel any strain due to this RR, but I;vent tested the top speed, as my normal drive speed is between 50-70-80 max. I tried only once which was very early, so nothing to comment.


APE RR will be costing around 650 I think as its very simple if you.ve some general awareness in electicals. If not pls dont do it urself, take help from an auto electrician, else, u may smoke the harness.

U need to connect the new RR out to the batt(Yellow wire is + and black -ve. and inputs (2 gray colour) to the light coils. Then re route the supply wire for the Headlight supply, Yellow wire to the ign switch supply out wire, ie brown. Next use 2 SPST relays to power the bulb to save ur stock switch and feed the bulb power from batt, only the relay driving power is from the ign out power wire. I hope u got it,

Why dont u come to the thread and ask, its good for similar mod seekers. So pls come to the thread and feel free to ask and u'll get other's share too.

^^ What he said is correct. Follow this. For the wiring, you can refer to my diagram too. Both are same.

Edit - Added colour code for RR Unit as per sajjt

Hi Dr.this is my circuit for my P 150 DTSi V1, and there's no change in ur bike too.



I hope u've identified the wires so not repeating it. Bolt the RR to chasis to make it secure and getting gnded. Circuit shows it clearly.

Illustration shows the halogen, my earlier setup, but now am on Bi Xen HID and hence no need of HB Relay, can feed the stock switch HB out to the solenoid. But I strongly recommed the first setup if you are using the original harness of the HID,as some kits uses the HID bulb power from the respective beams directly from the original bulb socket, I've kept my low beam always on once the HL is on, so the power for the solenoid is from the stock switch. I've got a very lengthy and cumbersome wiring harness, having relays in built which is unneccesary for me, so I just avoided the HID harness.

IMO, for using an HID or using a 35W halo, u dont need to go for coil rewinding as the HID will takes only 35W after warming up, which can be supported by P 180 DTSi V4 DC RR swap. If any further power requirement only u need to go for the coil rewinding process. I've suggested to my friend and he's on it for months. Note that, he's on DC 35/35W halo. Flicker free Tried the 55/60W but batt gets fried, very fast within 15 mins so I suggested'm to lower the load. And the cost of the 180 DC RR is 450/- only, but if u've any plans to upgrade to HID later, then go for the APE RR as its the best I've tried.

With a rewounded coil , I've 1 HID + 2 X 55W spots and other tail lights as stock, I just removed the position lights as its not complementing with the cool looking Angel Eyes of the projector.

^^The RR Unit o/p is to be connected directly to the battery and not thru the Ignition Switch (BROWN WIRE). The ignition switch can not take that kind of load - 10A or so. Rest is correct. Ign switch should only go to YELLOW wire for h/l switch, pilots and tail light.