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Oil cooler in hh hunk?

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  • #46
    Thank you all for such a nice reply......
    But let me share my experience....
    On my solo ride to Bethuadahari-Palassy-Hazarduary on 18th Apr'2010, I rode 281km in total and taken less break while coming back. I rode mostly @80kmph mark and I was just feeling the engine is getting hot(psychologically, of course), then I slide my hand to the engine and touched the engine....., ya, its true. The engine was hot and I was able to touch it and felt the heat and yes, I am not hurt!!!!! After few couple of minutes, I had a stop just to cool down my engine as I don't want to hurt my machine.
    Move on.........
    bappaditya @ +919804822971.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post
      @prafultripathy: "So all bikes..." Care to explain where this "all bikes" came from . Never said that. Manufacturers will put oil cooler for a reason. If they can do without one, they'll be happy as it will bring down the cost. If not, oil cooler is the cheaper option..........................
      Heard of sarcasm? :P

      Read my post again... and if you still don't see it, then I don't think there's any point of this discussion
      _________________________
      LoneWolfRides©

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      • #48
        I have used a Pulsar 150 converted to 200. On top of that the damn thing was running a 200psi compression. Used no kind of cooling for the oil. The engine would get hot, but not to unbearable levels. I have personally run them continuously for 4 hours without break to cover around 350 kms.

        The 200/220 cool their oils because they are designed to run slightly lean. Thats the reason they extract good mileage as well. I also have a RTR Fi. During a long 600 km GQ ride with a 220 Fi, the 220 wud be cooler than the RTR Fi which is a good thing. Improves longevity of engine components, but does not mean that the RTR Fi is any bad. Remember that a manufacturer is more intelligent and would have taken all these parameters into consideration before designing an engine!
        Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.

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        • #49
          @ kaynmantis
          ZMA is long stroke, low revving de tuned engine derived of CRF 230F, where as Pulsar is short stroke High revving engine you cannot compare the oil grade assigned both to them with engine capacity both have.

          For Instance the mighty bullets which has 350CC engine capacity runs of 20W40 grade oils In turn a puny 135CC P135LS runs on 20W50 grade oil, now if you see what basic difference in both these machines is, you will find that bullets are long stroke & low revving engine where as P135 LS is short stroke & High revving engine.

          Just my 2 cents..
          sigpicAll India Permit 1+1

          Comment

          • #50
            Originally posted by on wheels View Post
            Thank you all for such a nice reply......
            But let me share my experience....
            On my solo ride to Bethuadahari-Palassy-Hazarduary on 18th Apr'2010, I rode 281km in total and taken less break while coming back. I rode mostly @80kmph mark and I was just feeling the engine is getting hot(psychologically, of course), then I slide my hand to the engine and touched the engine....., ya, its true. The engine was hot and I was able to touch it and felt the heat and yes, I am not hurt!!!!! After few couple of minutes, I had a stop just to cool down my engine as I don't want to hurt my machine.
            The fact that you touched the engine without burning yourself means that the engine was not over heating!

            I think the only place on my FZ's engine that I can touch without burning myself once it's hot is the sprocket cover which is plastic. Toucing anywhere else will mean guaranteed burns! Especially after a 280 km ride!

            Comment

            • #51
              Originally posted by abhilashabhi12 View Post

              For Instance the mighty bullets which has 350CC engine capacity runs of 20W40 grade oils In turn a puny 135CC P135LS runs on 20W50 grade oil
              Is it true that the P135LS needs a 20W50 oil? It is a bit surprising!

              Originally posted by iamvik View Post
              The fact that you touched the engine without burning yourself means that the engine was not over heating!
              Very true. Once after a 100 KM run that we did in less than an hour we tried to check the heat of the R15, ZMA and P220 Fi. We could touch the R15's crank case and take the hand back comfortably without burning anything. The ZMA - we could go very near, just do a touch & go but could feel the heat. The 220 we couldn't dare touch as the heat near to the crank case itself was as high as burning sensation.

              Compare the heat generated by your bike and see. It is very normal for an engine to run near about 100 degree centigrade.

              If you really want to know about the hearing / over heating, get an industrial thermometer and start checking your engine's temperature. Instead of the oil cooler jugaad, you may try better engine oils that have better heat management capabilities apart from having higher flash points & viscosity indexes where in they provide better lubrication even on a hot engine.

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              • #52
                Originally posted by HydBiker View Post
                Is it true that the P135LS needs a 20W50 oil? It is a bit surprising!
                Even I was surprised but then it was confirmed by the owner of P135 himself in the ownership thread.
                sigpicAll India Permit 1+1

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                • #53
                  Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

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                  • #54
                    The first signs of overheating are poor throttle response, reduced power, possibly strong and unusual odours, noticeably harsh sounding engine.

                    One way of reducing the chances of an overheating engine is to run a rich mixture. The excess fuel will cool the engine when it evaportes inside.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by iamvik View Post
                      The first signs of overheating are poor throttle response, reduced power, possibly strong and unusual odours, noticeably harsh sounding engine.

                      One way of reducing the chances of an overheating engine is to run a rich mixture. The excess fuel will cool the engine when it evaportes inside.
                      Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

                      Comment

                      • #56
                        What is the "correct" air/fuel ratio, according to you? It is not a constant and does need to be varied according to the operating conditions.

                        Comment

                        • #57
                          Originally posted by iamvik View Post
                          What is the "correct" air/fuel ratio, according to you? It is not a constant and does need to be varied according to the operating conditions.
                          Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

                          Comment

                          • #58
                            I think you misunderstand the term air-fuel ratio. When you talk about it in terms of exhaust emission, the aim is to adjust it to achieve the required CO content. In regualatory terms the idle CO adjustment does not depend on the manufacturer but on the regulations (BS3 for 2 wheelers now).

                            In an overheating engine, a rich mixture will usually help in cooling it. A rich mixture does not automatically mean poor mileage or poor performance. Keep in mind that said engine is already overheating and because of that, it is already suffering from poor performance. A rich mixture may actually help in improving the performance and fuel efficiency by helping to cool the engine better thereby reducing the power losses.

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