I am not sure if you are aware or not !! I have sold my bike. So I don't have anything to experiment with. Waiting for the ZMA to get delivered, but again can't start experiment with new bike else I will get royal scoldings from parents

I have a plan to customize round headlight doom which can hold a regular reflector for high beam and skoda's projector for low beam. Not interested in Benz lens just bcz of scarcity of D2S bulb !! H3's are easily available.

May be what you said is right that H3 is for fog or aux !! I never said that spread of H3 projector is bad. But the problem is H3 with Halo isn't sufficient for the spread. Instead of spending 3.5k on Laura's I can buy P220's new unit for ~ rs.3500/-. Agreed that it comes with Bulb but still no guarantee on functionality and how about ballast ?

Shree I know that u've sold ur uni but didnt knew that u've opted for ZMA. Nice selection. But experiments never ends right? Still trying to be Papa's pet? Jokes apart. U r an en lighted person with the spirit of DIY in ur blood, so u cant sit idle even if its R1.

Sold the HID too? U r right, D2S is not that easy to source, but there r shops having it but at a higher price. I was telling about the situation here when I was in search of lens, it may not be practical too. But its a full package with bulb, ballast is a sealed type of OSRAM and everything as a single unit just behind the lens, making as a big unit, hence thought its not easy to fit.

BTW, P220 HL assy is only 3.5k? Then why cant u think of it yar?

@sajjit.....
yes it was very informative.

you posted...........

'For over charging issues, I've put a relay in between the out of the RR and the batt and once the park light is on the relay is activated, else it will be off so, only on light usage my RR will get connected to batt. And it proved that no issues with the batt even with 2-3 consecutive day drives.'

wow,a very nice solution.are you using spst relay?
as per my exp though in my setup there is no relay,my wires are directly connected to the battery.
i was also worried about overcharging and i fitted a amperre meter there.
as a daytime ride after 1 hour or so when the battery is charged in highway the amp meter starts to drop and finally it sets to very very less.i also attached a digital multimeter and i was stunned to see the charging is 0.9 amps in 3k rpm and more,at that moment i thought the rr or the coil is gone but as soon as i use the horn or indicator or break the charging increases and later on settles down.my electrician Who is very knowledgeable said the battery will not take charging if its fully charged so there is no worry.
i also tested the same in p 220 and a yamaha r 15.
p 220 was acting same but even after full charging the amp was close to 1.8 amps,and in the r 15 the amp never came down below 3 amps.i think if these bikes battery dont get overcharged i am sure ours will not..
also please come to let there be light thread ...http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...tml#post444863

i will click the pics,little busy these days but i will post asap.LET ME FIND A GOOD WALL FIRST.

@NANOtechnology
brO your bike it has a two phase coil,one for lights and one for battery.open and clear the coil .dont touch the yellow one that is for spark plugs.wind all seven poles with 19 gauge wire minimum 12 feet per pole.the pattern should be clock-anticlock-clock-anticlock and so on.by the end there will be two wires coming out from your winding,these are your ac output.connect these to your ape rrs two yellow wires.the ape rr will have 2 more wires left,one is red that will connect to the battery positive terminal and the other one is black that will connect to the battery negetive terminal.you may need to cut the connecters as they are no good,dont hesitate to cut as the oem rr also has no warrenty.

rr info........

part number-ED22158
PRICE-1145.00
DESCRIPTION-REGULATOR
[email protected] T SURE THIS WORKS OR NOT.
MFG BY-GREAVES COTTON LIMITED(GELU),AURANGABAD.
here is the picture simple schematic.


rest one wire will be coming out from the yellow coil,connect as it is stock,one coil from clack pulse coil connect it is as stock.
now reroute all the power from the battery.you are full dc.use relays judicially as it will save your wiring and switches.

the last ever piaggio svc in my reach HAD ape rr
i had to ride 32 kms outside mumbai border to get that but finally have it.
he showed me 2 of those, i asked him to open both of them, he did so, and 1 had a lot of wires, while the other had 4 wires, seeing the images online a million of times i bought the second one, too bad since i went yesterday morning i didn't see the model no. an all posted by Dr, but thanks again
here's the ape rr




i searched for a coil rewinding person, he was not soo intelligent but was famous in the area to get that work done, i went there and explained him everything, he found it difficult to understand coz the terms Stator, pulse generator, rr, wiring harness bla bla were new for him, somehow he understood that i'm looking for DC he said "Direct karneka hai kya??" (you want connection to be direct??) i showed his the printouts of shreeni's 1st post of convert ac to all dc, 3 pages.

he looked at it and said "yeh shine ka hai naa?" (is it of shine?) i said no, its of unicorn, he was confusing me and letting me know the difference as how this thing has more poles and bla bla and it can't be the same in your case.

i showed him the circuit and he said i'll have to study this, i gave him a copy of the 2 circuits, stock and modified using ape rr, did i mention i showed him my rr too !

he said he'll see weather it can happen and call me up, according to him this won't work so i stopped wasting my time and came back home, however he still has my number and might call, since i was also not very sure as what can be the difference between fiero's and unicorn's coil i didn't push him to do exactly as i tell him to, thought of taking you guys opinion first.

by the way, he was telling me that i can get you a circuit that can get it done and all, i told him buddy that's why i bought this rr..

now i think i'll have to just take my coil to someone and tell him to fit a 19 guage wire come back and do stuff myself, hope this rain doesn't spoil my mood.

I've noticed that my stock rr is under the fuel tank, since ape rr's cables are short, do i have to keep it somewhere near the battery, won't it spoil in rain? and yes, do i have to change the battery too?? my current battery has no sign of indication at wat amp does it have and all, nothing is written on it and i bought if from the svc itself, i also noticed all tvs bikes (atleast in that showroom) were having the same battery.

here's my battery there's no sign of anything anywhere else



@shreeni
regarding projectors for high beam, i don't mind putting up a reflector alone, but i want to do all that in the same headlight unit, i mean i don't want to put up a lamp on my crash guard.. if i just leave the lens alone and fit a proj without a lens on it, will it do the job??

@sajan
the way you have showed a detailed circuit for pulsars, can you please put up a picture of a detailed circuit of fiero f2 too, as i have the knowledge of circuits not more than 12th physics..

my bike is a kick start not electric, even the rewinding guy was trying to tell me the difference which i didn't understand exactly what he was trying to prove.

yes, that's helpful dr, clearing thing up so far, I'll put up a better picture clicked from my cam and please be more clear..
thanks.


@ mods
its okay if the thread is moved from above 10-12 posts to any other helpful section, so that more people can notice..

U got the right one with less connections, use the two grey wires for AC input, yellow to the batt and black to chassis/gnd. U can bolt this anywhere near the batt, its a very rugged one with a sealed unit. In APE its more exposed under the chassis.

Just tell the electrician that u need to rewind the whole poles with 19g wire as a single coil except the ign coil(covered bigger coil with thin coils). Dont try to convince'm that its a new idea or so, these fellows wont accept it so easily. He doesnt want to bother the outcomes, afterall u r paying the money.

Oops, ur batt is a puny 2.5AH which is not at all fit to support an HID. Get it replaced along with this to a 9AH and u need to modify the batt brackets too.

Dude, finding a single unit to accommodate both LB lens and HB reflector is a dream for every light enthusiast.U can try P220 dome then but the cost will be high.

Yes, it makes some sense in terms of a kick start and a self start stator coil, but once its re-winded no diff at all. I dontve a Fiero dude, so no idea about the wire codes, but the whole idea will be the same for every bike. U can follow the circuit, only thing is u need to identify the wires coming out of the stock rr to be re routed.

Dr had given a very good briefing about the coils, u can follow that.Do posting here with more queries, so that we'll also learn something about and comment. Pls post some pics of ur RR with harness connected may be others too can've some thing to contribute.

Yes am using a SPST relay. So far I had no issues with my batt health, but once I noticed my Roots Vibrasonic horns lost its tuning and eventually I'd to change the points opened my eyes, my electrician was confirming that it could be a RR issue but I was not ready to digest it as I rely on this so much. But once I plonked the relay in between it made a big diff. Previously on day time my horns will be out of tuning and will make some awkward sound but on nights its become crisp at the end of my journey ie; after 30mins. Now everything is fine with this setup and my horns are back to its initial stage and its capable of sweeping away a dumb ass driver who is reluctant to give way for over taking with a single long honk. I just love to piss off these morons

Its purely my experience may be diff for others or even my horns are faulty, but to be safe, its better to have this simple relay.

Dr Bhai, how u r squeezing ur time for these mods I just cant imagine to setup all experiments just for the confirmation, rather I'd gone for the relay circuit. U need to screw up others time too right? I really appreciate ur enthusiasm dude In my case am a lazy fellow to find more details once I got a satisfactory result. My flash switch is not functioning and a new assy is waiting for the last 2 months to replace, but no time

Ok, find a good wall and take some snaps or u just come over to Cochin, I can show u some good white walls to take the projection.

wow,
actually i am very found of neat and clean systems ,which is very close to oem level.i took p 220 as a standerd when i started the headlight upgread and with you guys help it worked out.
i just planned all things,also i am a maniac gearhead by which i am able to do all this.
actually before all long group rides i take all the bikes and modify themm what i need to experiment and in breaks during the journey i simply note down the readings.

you know my oem tt horns went because of low voltage,a very opposite to your case.now i am using bosch dual tt horns with relays.very nice.
my main prob i cant ride if the ride is not perfect.thats my manufacturing defect,..

i don't want to put up a 220's dome.
i thought since shreeni has put up 3 projectors in one whole big reflector, i can atleast put 2 of those smaller one's of skoda...

But i would have put up an hid in one of them, and a halo in another, regarding high beam, if projector doesn't give out a good high beam, then if the same halo proj of skoda has its lens removed then will it give a good high beam?

or not as it will scatter a lot due to absence of lens??
and what are these autopal spot light?? can't find any on the net, it would be good if you post a pic of the same shreeni.

@Dr



does that end of the coils where you have attached ape rr has any socket to put wires,or any points to solder? if not then how can i attach ape rr there??

regarding black wires on the right hand side of the above pic, what to do with those? leave them alone?

do i have to de-solder any of those connections anywhere?

Do you mean i have to connect the copper thing i.e the 19 guage wire to the ape rr???

and yes, how does the pattern differ? ofcource i'll do exactly as doc said about clock, anticlock then clock and so on, but just for my knowledge if its done other way around does it make a difference?

my ans in bold.

the first one canbe anyway but the second one should be opposite,if you wind all poles same way,they will cancel each other.

hope this helps.

thanks a lot for all help doc..
i loved this one X2 Motorcycle Headlight at Trail Tech Home but i don't think i can afford an hid one...

thanks for all this info. I've got things more sorted out in my head now.

i'll go to the rewinding person tomorrow as i don't want to miss today's Motogp.

Do i have to change all the wires or only the one connecting the ac output of the coil as that would be the highest current carrying??

if somehow i manage to put up a 5 mm wire from the ac output to the 2 grey wires of ape rr, will that be enough?

if i do put up a projector below as a dude on a comet did, and i put say a rx 100's reflector or a similar toyota one's you mentioned above with hid's in them, which may give a good high beam alone, it would cost almost the same as the halogen one in this right?? X2 Motorcycle Headlight at Trail Tech Home

but again i don't want to settle down for halo..
thanks a lot for all this help so far you guys.
i'll decide something concrete and let you know.

comments welcome.

doc what do you say about this one?? http://www.trailtech.net/3152-SX.html
as it indicate spots, its for high beam right?? i can afford this and put it up on crash guard or handlebar, of do you recommend a flat surface one so it goes below the dome??

you misunderstood me.i was using that site just for illustrative purpose only,i am not suggesting you to get one.
what i saw that our desi glass sealbeams be it a dcm toyota or be it a amby these are best for highbeams.the trail tech unit is also similar specially the 8 inch round one.
as per your req i suddegest you go for low beam projector+high beam amby seal beam round one with halo 55/60 or even 90/100.this will be cheap and useful.set it up like the comet guy or in similar fashion,search in google you will get some idea.
here are some pics for you,just stick the hid projecter in one side of the round seal beam it will look good as a asymmetrical design like BMW.


now the low beam projection is complete its the turn for the high beam.as you said earlier you need to flash a lot in mumbai its best you go for halogen in high beam.wattage is best 55/60 h4 halogen or more,your system can support 90/100 also.now mount it in a amby seal beam.the size is 7 inch.it will look well proportionate in your bike also and the high beam throw will be good much better then any spot or fog lights.its cheap too.the seal beam from autopal will cost you 100 bucks only and these are very very strong and robust can even withstand the heat of 130/100 halogens.not to mention these are also street legal.you mount it in a fiero fx s headlight dome,straight fit to your bike.you can buy the dome second hand also.if you dont get fieros dome ,fear not ,get any round dome of pulsar/hondas etc,it will fit.the combination will be kick ass.connect it like following...........in parking light mode the inner 5 watt parking light inside the sealbeam will glow,you can use leds also in this/in low beam the projector will fire up/in high beam the h4 halogens high beam fires up.if you connect it like this when you push the pass switch the halogen will flash,THATS WHAT YOU WANT CORRECT?

and as of the wires yes only 2 ac out wires should be robust 5 mm wires or so ,why?simple because the load is changing from the stock,rest are same as stock so no need to change those wires.

now here i put some pictures diff type of beams....
and some infos also...........

Beam Types
Beam types vary greatly from manufacture to manufactures and from design to design. There are a few common beam patterns that will be covered here, but it is important to remember that these patterns vary greatly and generally don't even match the beam pattern displayed on the box the light came in. In fact, some real world beam patterns from manufactured lights are truly horrendous and these lights should only be used for conspicuity purposes and perhaps not even for that.
Driving and Eurobeams
These conical patterns flattened at the top and bottom and are about 110-120 degrees wide and project out around 2000-2500 feet. As the name implies, they are designed for "driving" and may be the most suitable beam type for the primary driving light(s) on a bike. The beam pattern is meant to illuminate a long straight flat road without blinding oncoming traffic.

Pencil Beam
These throw out a very narrow beam and light a reflector up to two miles. Since the beam is so narrow, you may need to use a lot (a dozen) and/or use them with other lamps to be useful. These are used by rally racer in the desert and are usually used as part of an array of lights on the front and on the roof or race vehicles.

Fog Pattern

These have a wide and flat beam pattern that are only good for a couple hundred feet. They are designed to be used in snow, fog and rain to light up the road immediately in front of the vehicle with minimal reflecting light back at the driver. There is some industry myth that yellow penetrates better, gives better contrast and causes less eye strain in bad weather. And in some part of the world, fog lamp must be yellow as per highway law.

Flood Lights


These are similar to fog lights, but without the flattened beam. They are used for slow offroad driving, as corner lights and lighting up work spaces at night. Illumination is only several hundred feet in a wide pattern.


so for highway driving or anything like that you use driving beam in high beam and the amby or dcm toyota sealbeam is best for that application.

here is a pic of my setup,but as you said you dont want lights in crash guards,its best you install a 7 ich seal beam and then place the projector just below/above/side/corner of it.


hope this helps

thanks a lot doc,
very very helpful.
i agree with you, but there's again a problem!

i wish more people commented on this.. anyways

what i was thinking is that if i source say a skoda laura projector as per sajit's recommendation, it would be difficult to install it below the dome...
the comet guy did it with a 220's proj.
in my case, if i cut up my existing reflector, and put up a say laura proj for low beam in there (inside the dome), close everything, make it look like sajit's proj, and below it install this
Round Post Lights at Trail Tech Home
particularly MR16 Halogen Solid Mount with 75w spot thing for HIGH beam, then it would do the job, as i won't even hamper the stock look of my bike.....

the difference is that low beam is above in the dome and high beam is below the number plate.

this is just what i have in mind, if its unlikely, then i might go ahead with your recommendation, by the way, i think even if i do put up a proj below the dome somehow, keeping it waterproof would be a pain, so if i directly go for mr16 halo mount i wont have to worry abt sturdiness water and so on... what say??

This thread has too much to read, will take time. Will do it during lunch hour.

Bro, I don't want a hybrid look of ZMA and P220 So there is no way I can opt a P220 fairing unless I get some one who can fabricate stuff.

Nope I have my HID, didn't sell that

Regarding Papa's pet or experiments, first let me get bike yar
And again if I get I won't have to experiment for the sake of coil or charging issues on a ZMA

Some things what I have planned for now..
Twin Beam HID's for flood light ride
LED's in tail (ZMA has 2 bulbs which will suck power)
ZMR speedo on ZMA (If I can source one and can fit it without trouble )

And get rid of bloody ASC from warranty

+1 and for me too. Drji, its surely a very very good piece of info and have to say that u've beaten me in typing long posts. Hats off to u man

Shree, why did u opted ZMA instead ZMR which is the latest? I thought u've opted for the ZMR and was mis spelled as ZMA Any advantage over ZMA? Am totally new to both, I've tried ZMA only once and no ZMR.

I actually wanted to stay away with the Fi which is not very popular in India for bikes and all thanks to after sales service. I would have happily opted ZMR if at all it was carb (Its personal view looking into pathetic servicing).

Engine and power wise both ZMA and ZMR are the same.

ZMR has -
FI, Oil cooled, rear disc, GRS shocks, tubeless tires, full fairing, awesome clipon's which does look sporty but gives complete comfort for touring and last but not the least - the digital speedo which is amazing @ 20grands more than ZMA. Coming to electricals it uses 6aH battery

For experimenting ZMR is big NO

Sorry for OT guys