so today was the COIL REWINDING day.
i asked a few people (rewinding guys) and explained them as what i want, no one was aware of what am i asking them to exactly do, so got pissed off and decided to do it all by myself...
thanks a lot to doc to give me a very good knowledge about the same, which make me confident.... but now i am stuck....


i opened the coil (better cam finally ), and removing the stator is a very big pain for me..
it took me 3 hours to remove those factory fitted screws that holds the stator.. too bad i don't have any professional help, so i rely on you guys.
its a diy job for me now,

this is my coil



now i see three soldering here, i don't understand which is what.
do i have to de-solder the points marked in purple circles to remove the stator, coz i don't think there's an another way to do the same, or should i take the entire coil out with wiring??

regarding the yellow marked point, what about it, i notice it is connected to the spark plug coil also with other wire of the same??

since the ground has to be removed what to do in this??


also there's a blue wire connecting something over the sproket, is it the pulse generator??



here's another pic of the two points coming out of the same wire.... what to do with both of them??




on the right hand side of the coil there's a huge fat wire, it connects the black thing on the top (what is it called by the way) and the stator coil too, if the ends of the windings go in to the ape rr, then how can i route it with this wire opening alone??




i cannot pull the stator off with the wire holding it,
tell me what should i do !!
my bike is opened up in my friends workshop can't keep it for 1 more night as i left it there today..

please help

Doc i need you !!!!
anyone please help and NOTE that i am posting higher res images so that you can edit it and post back without worrying about the quality and also connections will be more clear..

Exactly! The RR unit will never be able to overcharge a battery, if the voltage is correct. Just see that the RR unit is not delivering over 14.5V or so. And I would not recommend a switch there though, may harm the stator coil/RR unit.

@NANOtechnology - The black thing is the pulse generator. Leave it as it is. The other wire near the sprocket is the neutral switch wire. Leave the yellow fat coil wires as it is. Remove all the other coils. Remove the soldering after determining where they come from.

i posted regarding info as how to remove ground ???
also, the one connecting the yellow coil has another wire at a different socket..

IF i need to remove the stator, do i have to de solder or try to source where the wires come from and carry all the wires with the coil to do rewinding..

you have a pm

regarding the battery, can anyone suggest which 9 amp batt should i opt for??
any yes, do i also need to put relays?
still time to source the hid's so can my stock batt light up the current halo 35w even after ape rr installation??

i think i will never be able to convert my bike to all dc !!!!
no one here knows anything about dc and even i am stuck..

Go for the Amaron 9aH maintainance free battery which comes with 30 months replacement and 30months pro-rata exchange guarantee.

Its a lesson for all that u should not leave a FI bike to any dhaba servicing centre, get it serviced from the co. FI is not a new introduction in automotive industry only thing is if u fiddle with the FI system, it can lead u more worse situation. It should be mapped/serviced with the help of proper software/equipments. Take the case of a FI car, no one tries to mess with that instead these guys will take the pump or the full vehicle to where the re mapping facility is available. Its with our bike mechs over enthusiasm leads to more complaints and even at the SVC its creating issues if u deal with the junior mechs.

FI is a very advanced system with very good results in combustion and very rarely its creating issues in case of a car. So is the case with a bike too AFAIK. There r instances where the FI introduction time, but now its improved a lot and the future system will be FI thats quite sure. I think even the SVC guys r still lacking the experience to do, may be cos r waiting for a new entry for this or so, and may be thats the reason some of them've withdrawn FI from their bikes.



Dude u need to pull out the coil first after disconnecting all the sockets attached. Identify the wire colour codes connected to the ign coil (Big coil with cloth Insulation) and note down. De solder all the connections. Better to cover the ign coil with a cloth for addnl saftey not to get damaged while rewinding, scraping. Undo the coil which is wounded with thick wires in 7 poles and just count the turns in any of the the exposed bigger coils which is light coil. Now clean the stator and try to wind in a decent and neat manner in each pole with 19g wire till the no of counts u've taken. Now u can take the next pole and reverse the pattern and there also do the no of turns exactly with the first pole. Like that u need to complete the 7 poles CW & ACW manner and u'll've 2 wires ends from the coil. Terminate the coil ends to any of the connection strips in the stator core. Check for there wont be any short circuit between them. Drop some winding varnish (Get a pouch for 40/) over the newly winded coils to make sure that there wont be any gaps and making it more insulated. If ur winding turns lower than the stock turns then idle perfo will be sacrificed, if its more there wont be any issues as the RR will take care of the excess.


Do not touch the big size coil which's got a cloth insulation and the top mounted pulse generator.



Now connect the wires to the ign coil as in the stock manner, and then the two wires u've done. U can take any of the other 4/3 wires to do this. Make sure that the ign coil wires should be connected as in the stock state. U can leave the other wires open or even cut that as u dont need that any more as long as u r on DC setup. FIx the coil and the pulse generator to the stator cover and fix it back with a new cover packing to aviod water seepage.

Disconnect the stock RR socket, connect the coil end sockets and try to start the bike, if ur connections r ok, it should start without connecting to the RR. Else, u need to check once again the wire connections.

If the bike starts go to the next step:

Now bolt the APE RR to a convenient place where very less wire joints to the coil as well as the batt. Connect the black wire to the RR fixing bolt. Yellow will go to the batt directly. Take the wires u've connected to the new coil and feed that directly to the APE RR without using the stock harness. (2 grey wires)

Start the bike be in idle speed check the voltage in batt, and measure the voltage on highest rpms ie; @5-7k rpm. It should not be more than 14.5v and now check the amps pumping in, it should be around 4A @ normal rpms. Now u r bike is HID ready.

I hope u've got the idea.

Do the wire re routing of light wires through relays and feed the relay coil from the ign switch so that only at the ign switch is on u can operate the light. Use thicker wires to load bulbs.

Now Enjoy

+1 to sajjit.

and please get half lit of disel or kerosine and clean up,the chain are is a mess.

sorry dude, i also have h3 projector... and i dont have a dual beam.... i have to install the headlight and still see whether it was qworth the money or not..... but i am planning to keep that single beam on the high beam switch as then i can at least use the pass switch...

Finally got coil rewinding done.
used 19 guage wire all around 7 poles and got it done from a professional (finally found one).
he left out the ends of the coil connected to stock wires which goes out through the opening at the end....
i told him to put thicker 5mm wires at coil end so that it can carry the load of the ac current to th rr unit, but he said that there's no need as stock wires will carry enough load the coil produces, i still insisted, but again he said that even if he does, he won't be able to source it out through the opening for wires, and then i'll face oil issues,
finally after much argument i gave up, and asked him to source it through stock wires but he has cut the end wires that is both the terminals out from the attached harness thus making it clear as what two wires are the end of coils...
by this i could easily attach ape rr to these cut out wires..

he showed me that those wires could carry heavy load, he attached my coil to his huge machine with a magnet on the body to perform testing and it resulted that i could easily manage a 100w bulb

finally i agreed and it was done..


here's the pic of re-winded coil




but pulse generator (black thing on top) is left as stock, i asked him to remove the end which is connected to the coil and attach it to the ground refering the following circuit posted by shreeni




but in my system its strange that this coil connections go directly upwards in the wire, showin no signs of relation with the coil through directly connected wires so i left it as it is...
as the testing of the output of coil was satisfactory, i was happy....

but now, attaching the ape rr is a pain.
i have connected it exactly as shown in the above circuit, but still strangely my headlight doesn't work.

@ sajjt

the black wire of ape rr should be bolted to the same attaching rr circuit bolt???
i attached it to the -ve of the battery, maybe this was the problem...

also, after connecting the +ve of ape rr (yellow wire) to the battery, all my electricals work except HEADLIGHT.....
tried swapping the wires (connected to grey ones) connecting the ape rr from the coil, i.e lr/rl still no luck.
mech thought that my rr would be faulty, but it give out good amount of current when the engine is running if coil wires connect grey ones in rr thus everything seems perfect so far...
tried connecting the out of apr rr yellow wire to the headlight's yellow wire particularly, still my headlight doesn't work, weather the engine is on or off...
what could be a problem here??

i don't know now as will only connecting the black wire from the apr rr back to its own bolt and grounding the -ve terminal of battery would be sufficient. keeping the yellow wire from the ape rr connected to the +ve of batt, or something else will also be required...

will try though, and yes, the yellow wire from ape rr goes to batt and the wiring harness too, or just the batt??

but when everything was swapped to orignal rr removing ape rr headlight and other light works fine ...

and yes i forgot to mention
i bought amaron pro bike rider 9 amp batt, quite heavy
3kgs, my stock battery looks like a pencil cell in front of it..

will try if it works, and keep everyone updated, meanwhile let me know more.
thanks for all the help soo far everyone..

@doc

well sorry for unclean system, i don't have a chain cover so all this mess
no matter how much i clean it, it gets back to this...
but if everything works fine.... who cares ???

@sajit
yes, my bike starts which means that the connections are okay.. phew.

regarding ape rr, the black wire of ape itself should be fixed to the bold holding the rr, got it, will do it today itself..
maybe thats why headlight is not working..
is there's some other reason considering connections till now are okay (the one is the quote)
and yes the -ve of the battery should be grounded too?

1 more question,
if its successfully converted to DC, then will my headlight bulb work even if the engine is off,
it should right??
that means i won't have to kick start bike all the time to check the headlight..

hey nano,hold on,dont do those sudden changes to wires and all u will burn everything.

you havent read the prev posts of sajjit and mine yaar.

yellow wire to battery pos and black to battery negetive or a good ground,battery negetive is easy.

now you have to reroute the light wires to battery.
use relay of cars to use in halogen.

just go to any auto electrician and tell him to reroute all the wires through the battery.

just think about it.
previously there was 2 phases,one ac and one dc.as of your writing you left everything stock ,so the the wires which used to carry ac phase to lights like headlight/pilot/meter cosole/tail position are3 not getting any power.with your new setup you are by default giving power to which originally was from battery,understood.
you just have to reroute the power of headlight from battery,and yes your battery will support the headlight even if ur bike isnot running.but that dosent mean any body can fiddle the light when you park your lights because the lights will only powerup only when you will put the switch (key) in.

point to note.......... dont run a 90/100 halogen bulb in plastic stock reflector,it will melt,also use a relay for headlight and use thicker wires for headlight as the load will be 5 amps+,stock wiring and switches will not able to take the load,just add a relay and higher gauge wire from auto electrician will resolve everything.

your coil still have some space space left ,for a single hid or a halogen upto 55/60 is ok but it looks there will be strain in low rpm if the load is more then 80watts,just a though,as it lookes the coil is not 12 feet per pole and the last pole is less winded.dont be down ,just try and check.

the stock wires are ok but its better to use thicker wires from ac out of coil as the oem wires are old and the load per wire increased ,just pull out the original unwanted wires and run wires through the plug,its a tight squeeze ,a lot of effort but worth it,but as you done already ,it s ok.
also how much you spent for rewinding?


also check the ac input close to the oem wiring connector just after the oem rr.

doc, i did read your and sajit's post a lot of times, the thing is that i completely referred the diagram posted by shreeni.
all my lights work, everything- the tail light, indicators, except the headlight and console light.
i think re routing the wires from battery itself will do.
the last coil HAS the same no of turns, believe me, look at a few pages behind, you'll see the stock coil also was terribly low, that's because the last leg is thinner than the other legs.
its strange, but true...

i bought the 19 gauge wire 300 gm for 150 bucks.
i paid 150 bucks to the re-winding person.
he was asking for 250 but we negotiated
all i think i need to do now is connect the black wire of ape rr to ground which now is connected to -ve of battery,
and -ve of batt to ground. maybe that will work, if not then i plan to pull out my wiring and re-route all the wires as stated by all you, specially to the headlight.

the huge amaron 9 amp batt is a huge pain to attach.
i was cutting the stock brackets of battery but i broke the hack saw blade in my hands and cut my skin, so i delayed the process.

the bad thing for me is that there's no one who is helping me here personally.
i also feel bad that i post you people all stupid queries too, but i can't help it coz you people are my only hope...
so all the things which i don't understand becomes a query.

regarding relay, i again have to search for some good auto electrician to get the job done...

will go on Saturday to search for hid projs..
meanwhile I'll keep you all updated.
thanks a lot everyone for all this until now, i am glad to be a part of such enthusiasts.

a medical help.

was there a bleeding?better get a shot of tt(0.5ml) im asap.apply ointment betadine locally.use some protection like cotton gloves while using blades.