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**L.P.** · 12-22-2008, 05:23 PM

Aaahhh.. Rememberances...

Mind Refreshed..

**niks_devil666** · 12-22-2008, 05:26 PM

what happened to the GIR2? no news fom sunny

**Lost Soul** · 05-02-2009, 07:32 PM

anyone have a video of sunny's power wheelie at flagoff ??

**Sunny** · 06-22-2009, 10:33 AM

The Great Indian Roadtrip : Day 11 : August 25 : Srinagar - Sonamarg

Day 11 : August 25 : Srinagar - Sonamarg

**Sunny** · 06-22-2009, 11:08 AM

The Great Indian Roadtrip : DAY 12 : 26th AUGUST:Sonamarg-Kargil

DAY 12 : 26th AUGUST:Sonamarg-Kargil

Account by Krishnendu Kes

Starting from Sonamarg the landscape begun to change. We were gradually leaving the greenery of the Kashmir Valley behind. Very soon we came on to narrow single lane rocky paths with no asphalt, pieces of rock and splinter met our vehicle tires. And soon we were on the site of the landslide where the TV crew took some bytes and we continued on our way. The going got tougher by the minute. And my vehicle started giving problems in the fuel flow. She was choking in the carbs. I was dragging way behind. And soon I sputtered to a total halt. Sunny went ahead and sent back the Kinetic engineer. He got her going. But it still did not feel right. I told him to clean the slide as well as the needle in the carb. He said he would do it once we got to some place more sane. I said that it is going to get less and less sane!

My bike started and stayed that way. I began to roll again. Caught up with the rest of the gang some kilometers away. We continued to ride. It is not a very healthy ride for large four wheelers. We happened to cross an accident site where a truck had veered off the edge about an hour ago and we could make out some remnants of the disaster at the bottom of the half-a-kilometer drop. Apparently giant cranes were on their way to salvage whatever they could.

As we just saw, the drops were pretty steep. And I am terrified of heights. And I love hill riding, mountain riding, with the curves, the twists and turns, and of course the heights and drops. I rode on. With the pleasure of riding in such locales.

The landscape was terrific. The roads were terrible. Non existent. We continued our way till Zojila pass. There was an army truck standing near Zojila mountain. They told us strange stories of the mountain having strong magnetic properties. That vehicles start rolling on their own in unprecedented ways. Helicopters cannot flyover the mountain. Everybody listened in awe. I was as usual skeptical. But did not obviously voice it.

After a point of time we were stopped by army personnel to make a small detour, make checks and entries in a long log book inside a soggy tent manned by two weary looking army guys, with a stove on warming tea, selling packaged peanuts at peanut prices. We got into the tent and made our entries with the vehicle numbers, driving license numbers, names and other useless data. I sat down next to the stove warming myself emptying a packet of peanuts into my ever-hungry mouth.

Once the entries made, we started making our way towards Kargil. The pace at which we were moving, it looked like it would take forever. We had done 26 kilometers in more than 2 hours! And here we were thinking of doing all the way till Leh the previous day. We still had 75 arduous kilometers to go and it was already 1300hours.

DAY 12 : 26th AUGUST:Sonamarg-Kargil account by Sundeep Gajjar ( Sunny )

**Sunny** · 06-22-2009, 11:59 AM

**moeed** · 06-22-2009, 10:37 PM

Lovely pics. I simply love the landscape.

**moeed** · 06-22-2009, 10:43 PM

Great pics. I can see guys riding the karizma and the blaze without a helmet in the pics. It would have been better if they had helmets.

**Sunny** · 06-27-2009, 02:20 AM

The Great Indian Roadtrip : DAY 14 : 28th August: In Leh

DAY14 28th AUGUST in Leh

Text: Krishnendu Kes

**Sunny** · 06-27-2009, 02:29 AM

The Great Indian Roadtrip : DAY 15 : 29th August: Leh - Khardung La

DAY15 29th AUGUST : Leh-Khardung La-Leh.
A day of reckoning. The ride to Khardung La Pass. The highest motorable road in the world at 5602 meters above MSL. There are bikes and bikes and bikes and men and women who have done it and who did it regularly. Nineteen to the dozen. But we are different. We are the GIR, the Great Indian Roadtrip core riding team on Kinetic Blazes a moto-scooter trying to scale this height in situations that we were not at all prepared for.

We got up lazily. Sunny said that it is just 39 kilometers, we will go and come back in a little over two hours. No rush. So by the time we left for the hallowed destination, it was well past 10 in the morning. We did our usual stops en route to take pictures. We went under the board saying Khardung La 39 kms. And soon two things struck me. It had rained all day the previous day at Leh. So it was well possible that it had snowed on the higher flanks, read snow at the pass where we were headed. My worst fears came true the moment we left Leh and I had a full sight of where the road was headed. There was fresh snow on almost every cap even right next to Leh. Which could mean only one thing, lots of snow at the famous pass, and the pass being famous and everyone making a beeline for it and the Nubra Valley beyond, the snow being crushed upon by the moving vehicles would not make things easier. I did not fully voice my opinions to the others for fear of setting in unwanted apprehensions.

Second thing I realized that Leh was at 3200 meters. And K-Top was at 5602 meters. A climb of nearly two and a half kilometers in altitude over a distance of 39 kilometers was not going to be easy for any vehicle on this planet, even for the famed off roader Hummer. I reckoned the climb was going to be pretty steep and through a lot of snow. But all I said to the group, “Hey guys, there is fresh snow right next door. There is going to be plenty more far ahead. Take care.” And we rode on.

Soon enough, there was an army barrier blocking a long line of vehicles waiting clearance from above due to excessive snow. We being on two wheels went under the barrier and carried on our way. Not long after, the temperature had fallen drastically. We were crossing spaces with snow on either side of the road but not yet enough to create real problems in our riding. In the meanwhile, let me put this very clearly; the Kinetic Blaze was far outperforming the premium Honda by miles in the climb so far. I would stop my Blaze, take out my camera, shoot pictures, take out the video, shoot some more footage and the bike would come stuttering and sputtering, gasping for breath. I would then pack my stuff back in my Lowepro, start my Blaze and go ahead and overtake the Honda as if I had some high tuned bike that made the Honda look like a tricycle.

And then the fun began. The snow started to become thick and high. And there was no road anymore. Thankfully there were two lines traced in the snow by passing vehicles where there was no compressed ice, which is what happens after some undisciplined and uncontrolled driving. We were lucky to get there early enough and we had to be smart and focused enough to aim our front wheels in one of the trenches dug by the previous tires. But this did not always pay dividends.
On either side of the vehicle the snow was till the height of the foot pegs or higher. Riding along the tire mark was fine. But at times we would simply not be able to keep control and we would find ourselves plowing in the snow with our front tire. And then getting out of it was a mess. It happened with all of us, several times. Once you are in the snow, it is no point cutting through over two feet of snow. It is not a snow mover, nor a snowmobile. We had to pull the Blaze back and set her back on track. And that is where we realized that at that height, the slightest effort would drain us. Despite the cold, I was sweating.

Another thing that happened was while riding along the track, we would come to a place where there were rocks. And as we approached the rocks, we tried to look for a place where the snow ridge in the middle of the two tire marks was the lowest to cross over to the other tire mark. This was often a tricky venture. As I hit the middle snow ridge, if it was not too high, the front wheel cut through nicely and at times the rear wheel followed suit. But what when this did not happen which is quite often in snow you know. At times the front wheel would hit the central ridge of snow and go through and the rear wheel would refuse to follow it would keep spinning and remain on the first tire mark. And I would be stuck. And then again push and prod and sweat and huff and puff and put the bike back in track. It is easier said, written and read than done.

At times we would be in the central snow ridge and the rear wheel would start to aquaplane and I had a bike in my hand where my handle was straight and my rear wheel was perpendicular to the handle aquaplaning full tilt with a big time wheel spin totally awry and out of control and I was sliding towards the edge. My fingers were frozen from the icy winds, the toes were numb from treading in the snow and the snow getting in the shoes and melting and happily freezing the feet.
Again push and pull the vehicle back to its position. This went on for nearly one hour for the last four kilometers. There were other vehicles, four wheelers, Qualises, Scorpios, mini-trucks which blocked our path for eons.

The Z TV guys came along in the backup vehicle. The reporter was visibly livid as he missed out on the action of how the vehicles made it to the top. There were some frayed nerves and heated exchanges between the TV crew and the GIR team since we did not wait for them. But all said and done, it was a neat job done. No matter how many people have done it before. We were not prepared for so tough a proposition.

But it was not over. Not yet. We had to turn the backup vehicle and ride back. After all the photographs and cups of tea and all that, we were ready to go. But turning the backup vehicle was not a piece of cake. The snow on top had become compact what with all the vehicles crossing over on top and all the people walking around. Three people tried their hand in turning the vehicle around, our regular driver, Gasoline and a local driver of a Qualis. Finally we were literally lifting and pushing the vehicle across the frozen patch while the wheels were in a mad spin. And all the effort was coordinated with the help of some locals who were present and the passing vehicles who need space to move ahead. It took us nearly an hour just to turn the pickup truck around with mostly human muscle force rather than the Bhp of the internal combustion engine. And by the time we were done, we were almost a spent force with headaches setting in for most of us. Gasoline lay down in the snow as he was unable to take a step forward. Sunny started heated arguments with strange unknown people. Skyscraper was unusually quiet and would not open his mouth at all other than to gulp down Red Bull.

We started our way back down to Leh. The initial kilometer was still tedious. My bike would not start with the self-starter. The others had left. I finally started it with the kick-starter. Not much to say about our way back. We were only thinking of getting back to the comfort of our hotel rooms. I wanted a steaming hot bath, dry out my shoes and socks. It took us a little over an hour to get back. The whole operation lasted more than seven hours. And here Sunny was saying in the morning that we could be back in a couple of hours.

Sunny had a splitting headache. All of us had headaches. But Sunny thought that he had AMS. And he thought that he was going to die. He even started throwing up. We took him to the hospital where after the regular tests he was declared to be normal. Some medicines were prescribed and he was asked to rest. We all decided to rest the following day. It had been the toughest day so far.
Photographs: SUNDEEP GAJJAR

Day 15 account by SkyScraper

Starting from the time when all the riders of GIR woke up. Sunny and me were sleeping when Ken and Gasoline disturbed us. The day was bright with the sun on our heads. We all were ready to touch the highest motorable road of the world {Khardung la, 18380 feet}. And we were just 40km away from that pass. We left the hotel by 11 in the morning. I was in the backup vehicle & rests of the three were riding the GIR two wheelers. And I was excited & even our backup vehicle driver was very excited because it was his first time that he saw snow.

Gasoline & me refueled the scooters. As we left the place and touched the main road going for the Khardung La, We were shocked because of the steep climb. Me and every one in the backup vehicle were very anxious after hearing about the fresh snow in Khardung la. Our backup vehicle was moving like bullock cart and our riders were going smoothly while karizma was struggling. And after a short run of 14km we had to stop because the military personals were not letting anyone to go Khardung la as there was heavy snow. The GIR team riders were on fire and left that military camp in 5 minutes. I went back to the backup vehicle for my riding gear and asked driver & Zee TV crew to walk till the cafeteria of the military camp. And we were lucky that officers opened the path to Khardung la, soon we were again on the backup vehicle. I was looking at each milestone as I was very anxious to see Khardung la.

When we were just 5km away from the world highest motor able road we could see snow on the roads & on the cliffs of the mountain. Everyone was excited but our driver Gurjant was the happiest amongst the all. Actually , he was on the hills for the first time and he was lucky to see snow & snowfall in his very first experience. We crossed few school buses and every one shouted with joy when they saw such exotic vehicles of the GIR. After sitting for three hours in the backup vehicle we reached the Khardung la. But still we were 600 mtrs away from the pass. This was just because of the traffic on the pass coupled with fresh snow. I soon came out of the vehicle and started walking on the snow. My shoes were wet and soon I was feeling freezed. Every rider of the GIR was very excited because they defeated that pass. I ran across the pass with the xBhp’s GIR flag. We had a photo shoot and cup of tea in the cafeteria. Soon there was exchange of hot words among the GIR team and the Zee TV crew.

This was all just of Acute Mountain Sickness {AMS}. Ken was video recording the whole scene and was requesting everyone to control themselves. In a while the owner of cafeteria asked us to leave the place because the temprature was going down every moment. And we were ready to go back as the weather conditions were not working to what we assumed. Suddenly it started snowing. We all were pushing the backup vehicle so it could turn around and we can leave the place as soon as possible. And it was my time to ride kinetic Italiano blaze. Every one was amazed by the performance of kinetic scooters. Ken and me left that tough & untolerable climate while sunny and gasoline were walking on the snow to get on to the backup vehicle. But they were not able to catch the vehicle and they sat on the military truck and we caught them on the way. On the other hand I was very happy and concentrating on the road full of snow, rocks and slushes. Ken & me overtook the backup vehicle and we both were trying to reach Leh as we were very tired. After 2hrs we both reached Leh & both were having severe headache. I went to near by restaurant for cup of tea and was feeling better.

After few minutes we saw our backup vehicle & everyone was looking like they had been torchered for many days. Everyone was in bad condition but Sunny was feeling worst among the all. He was having severe headache & vomiting. We all thought that its just because of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). But when we took Sunny to the nearby hospital the reason was something else. That all happened just because of exertion. We were charged Rs 2 for the oxygen check and we were back to the hotel soon.

**Sunny** · 06-28-2009, 11:39 AM

The Great Indian RoadtripDAY 17 and 18 : 31st August - September 1: Leh - Pangong Tso

Let me put things in perspective right at the onset. Day 17 changed the way I am going to say things. We are going to throw the book of superlative adjectives and adverbs out of the window. The events of Day 17 has prompted such an action.
Destination: Pangong Tso. Tso stands for lake. Riders: Gasoline and yours truly. Sunny was staying back to work as he said and also he did not want to risk a second attack of nerves and headaches crossing another high pass. Skyscraper was staying back for reasons best known to him. I think he is pure lazy. I was enthusiastic about Pangong Lake and so was Gaso.

Eleven in the morning we were off. We topped up our tanks, filled a can with fifteen litres of gas and we rolling on what seemed a nice broad highway. It is the highway to Manali. On the way we crossed Shey, the ancient capital of Ladakh, Thiksey with the world famous monastery perched on top of a high towering rock reminding me of the Meteors in continental Greece.

I used to think that NH15 between Bikaner and Pokaran is desolate. But while doing the Karu-Pangong state highway, the road desolate took on a new meaning. Not only did we cross any vehicle, we did not see any sign of habitation either for miles and miles. Anyone living here and solitude would be complete. Gasoline and I riding together felt like a crowd.

I went under some overhangs. I just happened to turn around and look under the overhangs. There were sixty-centimeter long icicles hanging from the crevices of the overhangs. And they were not melting. Which meant that the shade temperature was well below freezing point. There was not much sun. The clouds were pretty low and it looked like it was going to snow any moment. We rode on.

We reached Chang La, the third highest motorable road in the world at 5300 meters. Thankfully the chilly winds were behind us and we climbed in quick time. There was not much snow on the way, not right on the road at least. We stopped for a short while at Chang La, Gaso talked to the Madras regiment posted there. They looked quite glad to speak to someone from down South. And from there we went downhill.

Gaso joined me in a short while. Soon the place was teeming with people. I did not know that the village had such a large population. They were all drinking tea or some steaming drink and munching cookies and staring at us in our red shiny suits and white branded helmets. The Blazes parked outside must have brought about this flurry of activity in this otherwise sleeping village.

Our cook was generously innovative. He had sprinkled some raw chopped cabbage leaves and pieces of onion in the instant noodles to add to the taste and nutrition. I ate it with glee satisfying my hunger.

The road that we had done so far was indescribably beautiful. Not only was the barren simplicity striking, but the colours of the brown that changed hues as we moved and as the sun shifted humbled us. And when I rode on through such landscapes, the incredible beauty of the mountains made me throw the book of superlatives away.

The last four kilometers seemed like an eternity. And when I got there, I was spellbound. They say that a picture says a thousand words. But here a thousand words or even a thousand pictures or both would far from suffice to describe what I was seeing. No camera can capture this. No writer can describe this. I was glad to be there, standing, admiring the extreme beauty that nature has in store. You have to go there to find it and see it.

We were in Lukung village where the Pongong Tso began. We decided to ride on. There was no more road to ride on anymore. Again there was the gravel and rocks and stones flattened down by passing military trucks to give some semblance of a path that we tried to follow. We were riding on a vast expanse of round gravel and rocky terrain which must have been under a moving glacier at some point in history and most of the time we had to guess where the path was stopping often to take photographs next to the lake to take back home with us. I even bent down to drink some of the water and to ascertain the taste. It was salty.

Photographs: xbhp.com/KRISHNENDU KES

**moeed** · 06-28-2009, 10:15 PM

Beautiful pics there!

**Sunny** · 06-30-2009, 12:20 PM

The Great Indian Roadtrip : DAY 20: September 3 - Leh - Sarchu

Day 20 : September 3rd : Leh - Sarchu

**Sunny** · 06-30-2009, 12:39 PM

The Great Indian Roadtrip : DAY 21: September 4 - Sarchu - Manali - Vashisht

Day 21 : September 21 : Sarchu - Manali - Vashisht

**shailendra.malik** · 06-30-2009, 12:52 PM

Amazing clicks...

Was this trip last year??
Amazing clicks.....
The ice shot with the machine as a distant backdrop is amazing....

Keep sharing the details....

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