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1995 - RX100 Restoration

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  • [Photo Feature]: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

    Dear Friends,

    I am back finally here after being a long time. Yeah right time comes to bring back my beauty 1995 RX100 to its original for my own taste. Purchased most of the parts during 2011 and it was lying simply on my native place. The bike is in Chennai till date from the purchase on 2010 and I brought all my parts again back to Chennai to start the restoration. So started to procure few more parts missing now and finally done most of the parts today.

    Stripped the bike on yesterday and found the bore G-1 was sleeved with second size mahle piston. It looks first time we are opening the crankcase i.e inside all the screws are minus with no scratches on it.

    Engine:

    Bore and piston - going to replace with new bore I-1 with Goetz piston comes with. Any body helps me to get the ART/Mahle in std size would be great else i would go with Goetz.

    Transmission - Will keep the transmission as it is and it looks pretty good condition.

    Crank & Connecting Rod- I have new connecting Rod with crank assembly. Should I replace it or just take the connecting rod alone? best option ?
    But do we definitely need to change the connecting rod ?

    Frame - Purchased new RX135 frame and old one also does not have the major rust on it after stripping. Dilema whether to go with new one or repaint the old one.

    Advantage of going with new one, there wont be no bend and painting are looks like brand new. but i have to punch the numbers with 1500 /- charge in authorised dealer and outside its 1000. Not sure how the quality of punching in both places even if its high price.

    Crank case - Have the new crankcase but again punching needs to be done. but not using as of now and its a spare for me any time.

    Gladiator Disc setup- having the parts but ignoring now due to originality need.

    Nikel - Chrome plating - Silencer needs to be decarbonised and plating needed. The process of chrome plating not sure how i have expected to retain for long life. unfortunately they saying it lasts for 4-5 years only. But again not sure the long life.

    1. Dipping into ACID - Remove the existing nikel chrome or rust after dipping into acid.
    2. Copper strike and make the metal surfaces making metal surface even. - they are not doing usually now
    3. Nickel strike
    4. and a final topcoat of chromium

    Do I need to nickel chrome plating for the parts bought as new during 2011 in terms of best look and long life? or leave as it is and its better.

    1. Front and rear mudgaurd
    2. Both RIMS
    3. Spokes
    4. Rear Grab handle

    Painting:
    1. Engine crank going to buffing with Aluminum finish.
    2. Head - Paint or Buffing?
    3. Crank side covers (Magnet/Oil pump) - Paint or buffing?

    Nuts and Bolts - would like to go for copper dipping and suggestion needed either copper/nickel?

    Next Pending works are plating and repainting few parts.


  • #2
    Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

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    • #3
      Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

      The below are the parts Purchased and remaining work are in progress.

      1. Chrome Plating
      2. Repainting etc.
      Click image for larger version

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      • #4
        Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

        [MENTION=24526]kjayakannan[/MENTION] - All the best for your restoration. Good to see you logging your restoration here. Really appreciate many newbies wanted to restore will take cue from this thread and learn.

        Do not hurry, take your time and get them restored at your own pace. All the best.
        RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

        2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

          Originally posted by kjayakannan View Post
          Dear Friends,

          Crank & Connecting Rod- I have new connecting Rod with crank assembly. Should I replace it or just take the connecting rod alone? best option ?
          But do we definitely need to change the connecting rod ?

          Frame - Purchased new RX135 frame and old one also does not have the major rust on it after stripping. Dilema whether to go with new one or repaint the old one.

          Advantage of going with new one, there wont be no bend and painting are looks like brand new. but i have to punch the numbers with 1500 /- charge in authorised dealer and outside its 1000. Not sure how the quality of punching in both places even if its high price.

          Crank case - Have the new crankcase but again punching needs to be done. but not using as of now and its a spare for me any time.

          Gladiator Disc setup- having the parts but ignoring now due to originality need.

          Nikel - Chrome plating - Silencer needs to be decarbonised and plating needed. The process of chrome plating not sure how i have expected to retain for long life. unfortunately they saying it lasts for 4-5 years only. But again not sure the long life.

          1. Dipping into ACID - Remove the existing nikel chrome or rust after dipping into acid.
          2. Copper strike and make the metal surfaces making metal surface even. - they are not doing usually now
          3. Nickel strike
          4. and a final topcoat of chromium

          Do I need to nickel chrome plating for the parts bought as new during 2011 in terms of best look and long life? or leave as it is and its better.

          1. Front and rear mudgaurd
          2. Both RIMS
          3. Spokes
          4. Rear Grab handle

          Painting:
          1. Engine crank going to buffing with Aluminum finish.
          2. Head - Paint or Buffing?
          3. Crank side covers (Magnet/Oil pump) - Paint or buffing?

          Nuts and Bolts - would like to go for copper dipping and suggestion needed either copper/nickel?

          Next Pending works are plating and repainting few parts.

          From my experience I can share the following two cents: -

          If you are installing a brand new bore, might as well install Crankshaft & Connecting rod if the current one is out of spec. Else, just use the same.

          I would say if the current frame is fine with no major rusting/bends use the current frame. Else, use the new one inspite of the hassles involved in punching number and RTO approval, etc.

          Disc set up is a personal choice. I ride RX100 & Duke 390 on alternative days to work and I have no issues with RX100's stock drum brake. As long as we know our and bike's limitation it should be fine

          Please do not get the silencer re-chromed if its in decent shape. Basically, re-chromed parts cannot stand neglect/abuse as well as the original part from factory.
          Give it to a detailer who will be able to restore it to good shape.

          Don't do anything to new parts just use them as is.

          Regarding Head, Crankcases better to buff to aluminium finish. Would depend upon personal choice I guess but buffing to look all shiny makes the bike look like a vessel
          A lone amateur built the ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic...

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

            Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
            @kjayakannan - All the best for your restoration. Good to see you logging your restoration here. Really appreciate many newbies wanted to restore will take cue from this thread and learn.

            Do not hurry, take your time and get them restored at your own pace. All the best.
            Thanks Sriram. Your inputs are always in great help for me.

            ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

            Originally posted by NitinGirish View Post
            From my experience I can share the following two cents: -

            If you are installing a brand new bore, might as well install Crankshaft & Connecting rod if the current one is out of spec. Else, just use the same.

            I would say if the current frame is fine with no major rusting/bends use the current frame. Else, use the new one inspite of the hassles involved in punching number and RTO approval, etc.

            Disc set up is a personal choice. I ride RX100 & Duke 390 on alternative days to work and I have no issues with RX100's stock drum brake. As long as we know our and bike's limitation it should be fine

            Please do not get the silencer re-chromed if its in decent shape. Basically, re-chromed parts cannot stand neglect/abuse as well as the original part from factory.
            Give it to a detailer who will be able to restore it to good shape.

            Don't do anything to new parts just use them as is.

            Regarding Head, Crankcases better to buff to aluminium finish. Would depend upon personal choice I guess but buffing to look all shiny makes the bike look like a vessel

            Thanks Nitin. will describe my work done so far below.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

              Update 1: Silencer Work

              Let me start with my silencer work first. Taken my old silencer for chrome plating. He quoted 1800. /- for decarb and chroming excluding welding works.

              With in 2 days after decarb of silencer he called me for inspection and approval before proceeding the welding works. I saw the silencer inside and the 2 of the holes are torn and outside there was a hole where main stand touches. So thought of leaving the silencer not to proceed further since it won't give proper beat as per my understanding.

              My searching started for next silencer either used or new one which is quoted 2100 /-. But somehow I am not interested in new one and the reason being it is make of RX135. Two guys from north they quoted 2500 and 3500 for 86 model of it and concern of transport and condition cant be check it like in person.

              Then finally my mech sourced the old one 86-88 model but not sure the exact year. After decarb of second silencer and dipping in acid found small tiny holes at end of it and fixed by the copper welding on it. And then finally chrome plating done.

              Below is the picture of my old silencer - first one and then next one is sourced by mechanic.

              Cost involved:
              Used one - 1500 /- (approx and havent settled yet)
              Chrome - 1800 /-
              Welding - 400 /-

              I am thinking I have gone mad but let us wait till the output comes after restore.
              Lot of lessons learnt during this process of silencer plating when I personally visit the workshop. will definitely give the feedback after testing the results.

              Lessons learnt:

              1. 86-88 Model silencer has the bigger size 6 holes in the first layer and second layer has around 3 holes and you can see thoes through from first layer whereas 135's doesnt have any hole in first layer and 90s has small size of 6 holes present.
              2. 86-88 makes silencer weighs heavier than the 90's make ~ around .5 kg may be
              3. while plating they do decarb using kerosene and after they inspect the damage of holes outside and inside. And sometime after dipping in acid you have to be carefull to watch those damages. These damages can be identified only after these two steps. before that you cant recognize it.
              4. Generally these rechrome process reduce the metal strength and its weights to be frank. we dont have choice if you want old silencer.
              5. Chrome plating always high or equal to new silencer price in market.

              Click image for larger version

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              Last edited by kjayakannan; 06-24-2018, 06:52 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                Update 2: Buffing Crank case and Head

                Next work buffing of head and crank cases with aluminium.

                Cost involved:
                Buffing Head - 600 /-
                Buffing Crank case - 750 /-

                Some how I am not convenienced the process of buffing and the reason its not covered each place inside of head. What i meant is when you spray paint, it will cover each corner of the head. Look the top view of the picture of head and inside of it.But not like here and it is just by applying the aluminium by rotating the various size of wheels to buff.

                Here the output of both head and crank case. They requested me to clean them using petrol before fitting.Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by kjayakannan; 06-24-2018, 03:57 PM.

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                • #9
                  Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                  Update 3: Nuts & bolt plating

                  Next work is plating the nuts and bolt.

                  He quoted three times of actual cost in general. So I gave the small parts of nuts and bolt which was weighing 1.5 kg.

                  Cost involved:
                  Nuts & bolt - 900 /- (per kg is 600 and other place after I heard it is 350/- )
                  Spokes 36 - 325 /-

                  Remaining parts are like front and rear axles, new set of wheel rim, break pad, handle bar, gear shift lever and rear break rod all are he quoted Very very high. one example he quoted 1200 for handle bar and I got the heart attack.

                  So I will not sugesst this place for chrome plating

                  Shine metal finishers in Muduchur Road Chennai. Cost is so high 2-3- 4 times than others and price of the parts. unless you dont have other option.

                  Then I gave it to other place and waiting for them.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Last edited by kjayakannan; 06-24-2018, 05:36 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                    Update 4: Frame punching.

                    Yes. I was in dilemma to go for new one with number punching or repaint the old one. Old one is in good condition except the place where the battery touches got rusted and hole present due to acid from battery.

                    Also considering the cost of repaint work, sand blast , welding and then repaint will involves more amount work if you do yourself.

                    So finally decided to punch the new frame procured. I was really satisfied with the outcome of result and look at the numbers punched. it was perfect.

                    Cost involved:

                    Punching : 1000 /-
                    New frame : 4900 /-

                    Yamaha dealer quoted 1500 /- with submission of all the RTO required documents.

                    To be frank it just 50 rupees manual work job in 2 minutes.

                    Don't ask me why this much of and this is how it is.. Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by kjayakannan; 06-28-2018, 10:37 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                      Hi J.K,

                      Somehow I missed the thread for over a month.
                      All the very best for the restoration.

                      Originally posted by kjayakannan View Post
                      So finally decided to punch the new frame procured. I was really satisfied with the outcome of result and look at the numbers punched. it was perfect.
                      Get the punched area sprayed with paint, else it will start to rust.
                      PS: Font doesn't match with the OE spec, any idea if dealer has the proper punch?

                      Nissan Sunny XVD | Toyota Corolla | Suzuki Ritz
                      Yamaha RX135 4s-->5s | Yamaha RX100 | Yamaha RXG | Yamaha Ray | TVS Scooty Streak | Duke 390
                      2000 Yamaha RX135 5s (Sold) | 1998 Yamaha RX135 4s (Sold) | 1997 Yamaha RXG (Sold) | 1994 Yamaha RX100 (Sold)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                        Originally posted by Mr.Boss View Post
                        Hi J.K,

                        Somehow I missed the thread for over a month.
                        All the very best for the restoration.


                        Get the punched area sprayed with paint, else it will start to rust.
                        PS: Font doesn't match with the OE spec, any idea if dealer has the proper punch?
                        Thanks Mr.Boss. Sure will do paint before fitting. Regarding font, I gave it to them for punch and I was not there and not sure they have the all size of punch.
                        Does it matter the fonts has to be in same size with OE? since the bike is on my name only. Point to be noted for next restoration if I get a chance for RX135 5 speed.

                        but anyway I am going to use it on my native occasionally and not on daily commute.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                          Clarification 1:

                          After crank case and head buffing , how to clean them properly inside of it. Just petrol wash is enough?

                          What are the pre installation steps for engine
                          1. Polish the new bore and piston before
                          2. Do we need to heat the crank to install bearings?
                          3. Do we need to clean/polish the crank rod assembly? if so better method?
                          4. Head clean?

                          if it can be done by ourself, then I would like to do myself before giving it to mech for assemble the engine. Please your thoughts!
                          Last edited by kjayakannan; 06-28-2018, 10:58 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                            Update 5: chrome plating the rims and other axles

                            The parts are done by plating are

                            1. Rims
                            2. Break Rod
                            3. Break pad
                            4. Headlight Rims
                            5. Handle Bar
                            6. Nuts and Bolt.
                            7. Axles

                            Click image for larger version

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                            • #15
                              Re: 1995 - RX100 Restoration

                              Clarification 2:

                              New Piston Goetze make comes with Bore

                              Click image for larger version

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                              New Bore

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                              New piston Rings

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                              Mahle Piston Qn:


                              Adarsh Motor offering the STD Mahle piston with 1000 /- . It is embossed escorts in it.
                              Is this Original Mahle and work of spending ?
                              How about the performance?
                              Will this fit exactly and same size only. or better to go with same pair meant with Goetze which comes with Bore.

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Last edited by kjayakannan; 06-28-2018, 11:07 AM.

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