I am back finally here after being a long time. Yeah right time comes to bring back my beauty 1995 RX100 to its original for my own taste. Purchased most of the parts during 2011 and it was lying simply on my native place. The bike is in Chennai till date from the purchase on 2010 and I brought all my parts again back to Chennai to start the restoration. So started to procure few more parts missing now and finally done most of the parts today.
Stripped the bike on yesterday and found the bore G-1 was sleeved with second size mahle piston. It looks first time we are opening the crankcase i.e inside all the screws are minus with no scratches on it.
Engine:
Bore and piston - going to replace with new bore I-1 with Goetz piston comes with. Any body helps me to get the ART/Mahle in std size would be great else i would go with Goetz.
Transmission - Will keep the transmission as it is and it looks pretty good condition.
Crank & Connecting Rod- I have new connecting Rod with crank assembly. Should I replace it or just take the connecting rod alone? best option ?
But do we definitely need to change the connecting rod ?
Frame - Purchased new RX135 frame and old one also does not have the major rust on it after stripping. Dilema whether to go with new one or repaint the old one.
Advantage of going with new one, there wont be no bend and painting are looks like brand new. but i have to punch the numbers with 1500 /- charge in authorised dealer and outside its 1000. Not sure how the quality of punching in both places even if its high price.
Crank case - Have the new crankcase but again punching needs to be done. but not using as of now and its a spare for me any time.
Gladiator Disc setup- having the parts but ignoring now due to originality need.
Nikel - Chrome plating - Silencer needs to be decarbonised and plating needed. The process of chrome plating not sure how i have expected to retain for long life. unfortunately they saying it lasts for 4-5 years only. But again not sure the long life.
1. Dipping into ACID - Remove the existing nikel chrome or rust after dipping into acid.
2. Copper strike and make the metal surfaces making metal surface even. - they are not doing usually now
3. Nickel strike
4. and a final topcoat of chromium
Do I need to nickel chrome plating for the parts bought as new during 2011 in terms of best look and long life? or leave as it is and its better.
1. Front and rear mudgaurd
2. Both RIMS
3. Spokes
4. Rear Grab handle
Painting:
1. Engine crank going to buffing with Aluminum finish.
2. Head - Paint or Buffing?
3. Crank side covers (Magnet/Oil pump) - Paint or buffing?
Nuts and Bolts - would like to go for copper dipping and suggestion needed either copper/nickel?
Next Pending works are plating and repainting few parts.




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