Re: An RX-135 journey in 2020.

Thread approved.

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Congrats on your purchase! I recommend you to get your electricals sorted first so that you can ride even when it gets dark.Check whether the engine needs a complete rebuild. Also don't use a sleeve. I didn't understand the to & fro motion u said when on main stand. Tune the carb if it is not proper. When you do that check whether the 2t oil pump is working and adjust it if needed. From the picture, it appears to be leaking. Also see if all rubbers are present on the cylinder fins. They are for reducing vibrations. 16 inch wheels may give you initial pickup but stability may decrease. I haven't tried so couldn't tell. Also heard somewhere that the front & rear tyre widths have to be in a particular ratio. Need the experts to share their views. Once check whether all the bolts are properly tightened. Also check if your forks are giving proper action. Making an expansion chamber on your own is a bit challenging. It requires measurement of your ports, calculations and precise cutting & welding processes. If you are in, then I wish you all the best. But first I recommend you to get it running perfectly in the stock form. Then you can go for performance mods.
Cheers.

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Hi Shakti, nice to see the first guy who has responded. I am a bit stagnated in the overall progress now but have done some changes which I will update now.

1. Regarding the electricals, the wiring seemed to be okay. Just plunking a new battery (Amaron 2.5L) made all the lights and horn work without issue. Also tuned the carb by that time.
2. With the engine, I haven't touched it as of now for checking all transmission related parts. But I did remove the cylinder head to check the bore condition and found it to be running on 0.25 piston. (I think this is first oversize, need to clarify).
3. Regarding oil pump it is present there, but the previous owner mentioned to use mixing oil in tank and that the oil pump has been disconnected. So am doing the same. I think that oil spill is from that intersection point of exhaust header since am running premix ? Does that mean too much ? By the way in recent days i have switched to 25 - 30 ml for 1 ltr and I didn't find any oil spill. Also that joint is loose light smoke comes out of it actually need to take care.
4. The forks are properish I think so since I dont know the exact feel.
5. I totally agree with you regarding performance mods.
6. With expansion chamber, am currently two months in going through jennings as of now and some youtube videos on the actual how to make.(Pretty good videos are out there just to give us an idea of what we will go through).

So those are the updates. The following are planned for this month end:

1. Change transmission oil since looking back now I might have done more than 3000kms. It was my daily ride actually. Looking to put Motul 3000 20w/40 since I have bought a small can of Motul moto mix 2t oil. Will update observations on ride quality with this combo. Also planning to stick with Shell and only shell here on for petrol refills.
2. I didn't mention in the post but I met with a minor skid accident. I swear to God I didnt use the rear brakes only but it is still a mystery to me how the rear got skid. Anyway because of the fall the rear brake lever got pushed towards chassis. So going to change the lever, brake rod and required. Also install a crash guard in the first place.
3. Need to check the sprocket kit and replace chain cover because it is dented here and there , no matter whatever i do the chain keeps slapping a bit.
4. Checking the main stand since its way tooo slant when parked.

Thanks for the input, really appreciate it. By the way do let me know of your rides toooo

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Some info on buying guide for 4 speed according to what I have seen and read through the forum and my points as well. Senior members please do correct any wrong info and would be nice on your inputs as well.

1. Documents

1. Check the FC validity of vehicle. Most RC cards these days are smart cards. Do not expect the old book type RC. Check for lapse in renewal.
2. The moment you get to know the registration no. of vehicle, search for it on govt. parivahan website. It should give the fc, owner and insurance details upto a certain level.
3. Check for the owner name and ask proof of identity like aadhar, pan.
4. Check the chassis number on the RC card. It should match the number printed on your bike RH side. You can also make out the year of manufacture from the starting two digits.
5. Check for insurance. (Most usually have 3rd party ones). This is minor as per my view because you can just renew without bothering about the lapse.
6. Same goes for emission certificate.

2. Bike Condition

- The bike's engine and carburettor authenticity can identified by following figures:

1. Left hand side of engine has 4TL00 132cm³ marking. Also on LH side you can find the chassis number embossed on a striped metal piece.
2. Right hand side of engine has the series marking. Most 135 4 speeds have E1, E2, E3 or E4. If any other series marking is there or if there is no series, then it is a modified/fake one. Ask the owner about what modification was carried out.
3. Left hand side of carb has Mikuni corp embossed.
4. Right hand side has series namely 4TL01 and Made in Japan embossed. Seniors please correct/add info on carb series.

- Start the engine in neutral and rev the throttle, you will find the difference between overly vibrating machine with a less vibrating one. See some youtube restoration videos for the knack of it. This is mainly for bargaining purpose.
- Check for play in gear assembly, kicker assembly. This will give you an idea on future changes if you fix on buying the bike.
- Ask if the oil pump is present or working.
- Ask if the engine has been rebored or sleeved. If yes for rebore, then on what oversize is it running and how much kms has been done. Since it is a more than 20 year old machine we can't expect to have standard bore in most cases. If yes for sleeved, then it is a big NO NO because there a variety things that could go wrong like the composition of metal used for sleeving, whether its properly seated etc.
- Shake the front and rear wheels sideways to see if there is sideways play. This means that the bearing is gone but can be replaced easily but an essential one, since this determines your bike's stability. Also just rotate the wheels and feel the rims for any bend, if there's any, there are spoked wheel alignment centres which can do the job for you for Rs.200 max for one wheel. If no bend or play is there, but still the bike feels wobbly when riding, then its an issue with frame which might be bent due to accident or so which is very serious trouble.
- When riding the bike look for engine smoothness till maybe 40-50 km/hr and check the amount of vibrations post 60 till 70 km/hr and release the clutch totally while decelarating from both speed ranges to check if the bike gallops like push pull movement. This shows that either the owner has not took the time to even service his/her bike for test rides or some issues related to engine transmission parts like clutch assembly. In most cases this issue should go off once transmission oil is changed and general service is done.
- Also check for chain slap/noise especially when accelerating. This tells you about the chain and sprocket condition. If there is a chain cover while test riding then this is more prominently seen. If no cover is present you can directly inspect the rear sprocket for teeth damage.
- Ask if the fuel tank has been replaced or not. Check for the fuel flow from fuel tap.
- Regarding electricals it is good if everything works fine, but won't be a deal breaker when you decide to buy the vehicle or not.
- Check for the rusted condition of the chassis in visible areas, under seat.

3. After/During Purchase Process

There is no harm in bargaining, but be gentle. Quote your price stating if any issues with afore mentioned details.

This stage comes when you are satisfied enough with the bike and that you have made sure to sleep over the thought of buying the bike.

I strongly recommend to go through an agent for RTO stuff. The amount varies between Rs. 1.5k to 2k.

Get the ownership transfer forms. They are available as a booklet in most of stationery stores for Rs.10. It includes form 29 and 30, if the owner insists any other form just simply don't listen to them or take them directly with you to the RTO agent. I will paste the govt. portal link. (https://parivahan.gov.in/parivahan/e...rship-transfer)

That is all, fill in the form, give to agent and wait patiently. It will take max of one month for name change and generation of smart card.

Most owners do not bother about name transfer, they just sign the forms and give you. But you must be sure to do the ownership transfer process.

My bike's previous owner strongly insisted that I do the transfer and he even held off giving me the bike before it. Maybe he did it because he was the first and single owner. That was the kind of circumstances I went through when buying my bike solely relying on info gathered from forums here and govt portals. But it still turned out to be a good buy atleast for my heart's content.

So, the above are just few points/experiences of myself so far and I will keep adding more things. Experienced members please correct if any info stated is incorrect.

P.S -- I have attached some images w.r.t engine, carb details.

EDIT: Please make sure that you have your documents running. That gives you peace of mind. I am telling this since I live in Bangalore which is traffic dense and cop dense..
My usual daily commute is between majestic and marathahalli and I am that guy in that thick black jacket and a white helmet. Ping me if anyone has seen that guy

Cheers

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Getting work done in this corona has become a pain mate! I too am in need of some jets. Coming to your bike:
1. Regarding the smoke from the exhaust joint, see if all bolts are fastened. They may get loose when u ride hard. I too used to get oil spill and turns out that the bolts got loose. If it doesn't help, try changing the gasket.

2. 0.25 is 1st oversize mate. If there's not excessive connecting noise and runs good, there's no need to tinker.

3. Are you still facing hard shifts? Try adjusting the clutch once & see. The best way is to loose the clutch near the lever, then adjust the push rod to a position a quarter turn from where it starts to become tight. Now adjust the cable near the lever such that the clutch play is around 3-4mm. Take a ride & check.

4. There is a relation between front tyre width & rear tyre width. For ex: if your front is 2.5, your rear should be 2.75. If your front is 2.75, your rear can be 3.00. What I said is for 18 inch. I don't know for 16 inch so need the experts' opinion. Maybe that's the reason for your skid. Also it's getting rainy so go easy bro. The last thing we want is a crash.

5. Also please install a crash guard if you don't have one. It protects you as well as the bike. Remember, the frame is the last thing you want to damage.

6. Two months into jennings? Great to see your love for 2 stroke brother. Did this very 135 got you hooked? Also if you start your expansion chamber work, please keep us updated brother. Would love to see the progress and help in any way possible.

7. That's some valuable info for a newbie getting a yamaha mate! Thanks for sharing.

And coming to my ride, I own a 100. Everything is stock except an expansion chamber. I'm looking for jets but couldn't find anywhere. Gave a spare jet to fitter shop to make it slightly bigger but the shop has been closed due to corona. Once everything settles down, I plan to get a 135 block, get it ported and convert my 100 to 135. Also the chamber gives a good intial with 135. Stay safe mate.
Cheers.

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Always mask and sanitizer. Stay safe bro. I will update my readings on Jennings too.

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Is your gear getting stuck in 2nd only when the bike is stationary? Also if the gears are smooth when the bike is on main stand & rear wheel not touching ground, I suggest you to slightly increase the idle and see. I myself faced the same problem where the shifter gets struck in 2nd in a weird angle and finally gets released with a pop. The thing is the shifts are butter smooth when engine is off or when the bike's on main stand. Even shifts while riding are smooth. The problem arises when I try to find the neutral when the bike is running and I'm not moving. Turns out it is idling a bit too slow. Also check if there's excessive play in the shifter. If so just adjust the nut and see. Remember, it is okay to have some play.

And coming to my ride, yes the chamber did improve the performance. I thought of getting a chamber which can be used on my 100 as well as fully support 135 when I upgrade. It works on top end for 100. If you keep the revs high, it sure pulls like a tank. My friend on a RE 350 was really amazed to see the acceleration I was capable of. From stand still, we started & under 10 sec, I was comfortably way ahead of him. That puts a big smile doesn't it?[emoji846] I adjusted the carb on stock jets but having a bigger main jet (like anything bigger than 115) really helps.I live in Kakinada and even getting standard size jets is not possible here. Thanks for trying to help brother. I'm attaching pic of my bike and video link of my bike pulling in 3rd. Reason I didn't start in 2nd is to see how the powerband is throughout the rev range.



Have a safe trip!

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Nothing of the sort while stationary. It happens while riding out of the blue. When down shifting from higher gears I must add.

I have seen videos of this guy's chamber floating around youtube for sometime now. Great to hear the chamber was satisfactory !!

"I thought of getting a chamber which can be used on my 100 as well as fully support 135 when I upgrade"

--> Does it work like that? Are you planning on occasional use ?

I will surely update you if I am able to make the necessary find for you.

Happy revving with the chamber !!!

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Might be worn out gear. Couldn't tell brother. There are many experts in the forum with experience more than my age[emoji846]. Need their opinion.
And yes, usually chambers don't work like that. They change with the port dimensions & rpm range. Mine is actually designed for initial pickup for rx 135. But it is working in the top end for 100. Maybe the dimensions for top end for 100 is similar to initial for 135. He himself said that it is dual purpose- top end for 100 & initial for 135. I too didn't believe it would work for 100 but got it to use once I convert to 135. Turns out to be more than working, that feeling of being thrown behind- never felt before. I'm really thankful for you trying to find the jets.

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Its been a while now since the last update.

I have procured a list of parts as of now:

1. Crash guard.
2. Sprocket kit (16F - 34R).
3. Centre stand assembly.
4. New indicators.

Things are very lazy moving because of corona.

Here is a list of things planned to buy:

1. Better headlight reflectors.
2. Rubber kit.
3. Gear shift shaft assembly.
4. Kicker assembly.

Once these parts are procured the bike will be in good running shape according to plan I hope.

Phase two will be cosmetic remake since there is nothing like a shiny chrome-y RX.


That is all for the short update.

Sprocket and tyre mod experience.

From my initial posts, I have stated that the bike had 3.25 -16 rear wheel when I got it. This is a basic mod done for increasing pick up. Later on, I found that the previous owner has gone nuts for initial pick up and has changed the sprocket sizes too, the bike had the secondary gearing of that of an RX100 (15F-39R).

When I initially got the bike I didn't know of this, the bike used to roar to reach even 50km/hr ! At the same time whenever I get go from a signal, I could hardly ever see any bike in my RVM (provided me and me bike were mutually understanding at that time)

The ratios were extremely short that I find myself in the final gear in no time and used to do 84km/hr on highways on Google maps speedo , never had the mind to push further owing to vibrations. But in city riding conditions, it would feel why is there a first gear ever at all ???

On the other hand, it really taught me how to ride an RX if I may say to find that sweet spot where you can literally feel the engine purrrrrring with every throttle you give, as if stroking a kitty. Fuel efficiency always kept shifting from 32kmpl - 37kmpl and I really have no complaints regarding that. Even though I have come into terms with the above mentioned factors, the one thing that still keeps bugging me is the chain slack and scratching chain sound against chain guard. It can't be helped I think since I have lower dia rear wheel.

Now am done with all this initial pick up thingy which was given to me by my previous owner without asking and am going back to stock.

As first stage, I have bought the stock (16-34) sprocket kit and is going to be plonked maybe this weekend.

Keenly waiting on the results of
- top speed variation with reduced vibrations
- increased fuel efficiency maybe

Thanks all and cheers.

Early morning refills - Premix suggestions.

Is it ok to make an approximation for when we pour 2t oil ???

I do oil first then petrol with fuel tap closed. Lets say the flow of petrol then somewhat mixes with the oil. So after riding for somewhat say more than 50 kms, can we add some 10ml for every 20kms or so?? Because oil flow is not constantly metered, it is rather stagnant and flows according to its wish.

Today I added almost 100ml of oil for 5ltr of petrol and am planning on doing the above.

Any suggestions ???

Gearing commander.

There is this thread called World of sprockets in this forum which introduced me to gearing commander. Must say a very useful tool even for noobs to figure out certain aspects of gearing.



I have plonked in the stock sprocket kit and I could instantly tell that grinning difference in R.P.M and speed. Oh god finally my RX is suiting my needs.

Reaching 60's and 70's was a breezeeeeee and boy oh boy where are those vibrations . Overall I am glad that I made the right decision and without this forum and its hell load of info(even though digging is needed) sure came in handy. Didn't hit top speed since just went for a test run within city limits.

I just entered some rough values of tire sizes and sprocket combo and could find how the R.P.M and speed is affected in every gear. I have attached snaps.

Just look at these numbers !!!!! These numbers really do make a drastic difference in real life performance.

When the previous owner was giving me the bike he just plainly told that there is some chain slack because of which noise will come should adjust and will work fine, but I didn't knew at that time that it would have this much meaning. Whether he told knowingly ??? I still don't know

My sincere advise to all of you guys out there would be to take some time to know actual facts regarding the mods you are gonna make and if possible stick to stock and go for alterations which doesn't deviate too much from that. From my experience am telling you the essence becomes lost if its too deviated.


Edit: The stock is with 3-18 rear wheel. Custom is what I have now with (16-34) 3.25-16. Current is what I had (15-39) with 3.25-16. Look at the available R.P.M in hand for more speed !!!

Re: An RX 135 journey in 2020.

Glad your vibrations issue is solved