Travelogue approved.

I had seen a preview of this on FB.. waiting for more

Thanks Sunil for the speedy approval.
I shall now prepare the logs for posting...

Trip Preparations and Thoughts

Before going to the day-wise logs I would like to post something about my preparations and thoughts that went in to this trip and also my style of writing logs. For the experienced tourers, my words might sound that I am preachy and explaining a bit too much. But I try to write my logs so that a person who has no idea of bike touring and places visited, should enjoy and probably gather some info too.

My last trip to Leh in 2008 was just fabulous; we visited some of the remotest places in Ladakh (Hanle, Chumur), saw the one of the two world's highest observatories situated in Hanle and not to forget visiting the world's unofficial highest not so motorable road by the Name marsimik la.
All thanks to Sunil Sir for organizing it and a wonderful team.

But as there were problems in Kashmir due to some amarnath land issue we couldn't visit Srinagar and we had to come back via Manali route. I was really looking forward to see the beautiful srinagar but couldn't and from then on I decided that I will plan another trip and visit it.

2009 was a silent year for me with just a couple of trips here and there. But then I saw the travelogues to leh on various forums I got worked up and started thinking of when to plan another trip. I spoke to my brother, Mohit, about it and he was also pretty interested.
Next big part was deciding the time of the trip. Last time it was in the third week of July till August. We didn't see any ice/snow on our way or at any high passes. Hence this time I thought we should go a little earlier so that we get to see the ice/snow and also the greener side and also I didn't want my brother who will be going the first time to be riding on the ice covered roads. So July first week was the best time.
I spoke to my manager in my office in December 2009 only that I'll be taking a long leave in July and he agreed. Next was let our parents know that we are doing this trip. I waited till May for this since they were planning to visit Bangalore at that time and it is good to have such conversations face to face rather than on the phone. Finally I got the permission, they said you have already done it once so just take care and enjoy
Now time to plan the itinerary. Plan was like this:

Delhi - Chandigarh - Amritsar - Wagah Border - Golden Temple - Patnitop - Srinagar - Sonmarg - Drass - Kargil - Lamayuru - Leh - pangong tso - Khardungla (then probably go ahead for Nubra) Leh - Upshi - Tanglang la - Sarchu - Rohtang la - Manali - Chandigarh - Delhi

So we would have covered the famous, also glamorized by the movie 3 Idiots, Pangong Tso and also completed a full circle.
This time we also decided after consulting with 2009 riders, Ashwin, Vinal that we'll send the bikes through train along with us. This was safest way to transport the bikes unlike that last time when we sent the bikes through movers and packers, the bikes were damaged badly and it almost ended our trip before getting started even.
Tentatively we came up with the dates i.e. 2 July to 18 July including Bangalore to Delhi and coming back to Bangalore.
Hence slowly we started buying things required for the trip. First thing was the saddlebags which we ordered through mumbai based outlet from their website:
www.OutdoorTravelGear.com - Motor Biking, Camping, Hiking, Urban Cycling, Climbing, Water Sports, Lifestyle
The bags brand name was an usual one "getoffurass", GetOff : : Ladakh Splash!. The cost of the bag was 3200/-, slightly expensive than the usual cramster saddle bags (2200/-) but I liked this one mainly because the bags were easy to carry when they aren't on the bike.

Get Off - The Store

I also ordered a new thing, a camel back water bottle, which is a 1 litre water bottle you can wear on your back. Not very heavy, easy to use and can save a lot of space in your bags. We also bought riding gloves, balacalavas, etc. So slowly were ready for the trip.

www.OutdoorTravelGear.com - Motor Biking, Camping, Hiking, Urban Cycling, Climbing, Water Sports, Lifestyle

But then bad news started coming in the form of curfew in Srinagar, bad weather on Manali Leh highway and travelers getting stuck for days on the route. We decided to continue our preparations as planned and we'll see at the time of travel to Delhi what to do. I also had planned a back up trip to Lahaul, Spiti in case both the routes to Leh are closed.

Our row of surprises were not ending. The biggest surprise came when my brother called me up and informed me that he might have to travel to US urgently in coming weeks which will coinciding with the trip schedule. He asked me what do we do now. I just said you go ahead with your US travel and probably I'll go ahead with the trip. As I said earlier too, it was really disheartening to cancel the trip and anyways I would get bored to death staying at home alone when my brother flies to US. I asked my dad what to do about the trip and he just said "Son! go ahead with the trip. You have planned it long enough and it isn't worth canceling the trip. You have been there once and know how it is, just take care and go". Mum was a little worried for the solo ride but eventually said ok. This gave me a lot of confidence and I was all charged up to start my journey.

Yet another surprise came along my way through a good friend of mine, Suriya, just one week i.e. Saturday 26June, before I was supposed start the trip. And the news was that my mechanic's mother has passed away which obviously meant that he wouldn't be opening his workshop in the coming days.
Hence I decided not to disturb him in such sad times and called up Sunil Sir and asked if he could help me out with my preparation of the bike. He readily agreed and asked me to come to his place next day i.e. Sunday. I asked him if he had engine oil so that we can change it. Also I didn't have a center stand on my bike and it would be hard to park my bike without it in the trip and also on the train for transport. Sunil sir had spare engine oil (Motul 300v) just enough required for my bike and also readily (who also owns a comet) suggested that I should take his bike's center stand as he hardly uses it in the city. He also asked me to get new Iridium spark plugs from the shop and gave me the specification that fits on the Comet, IR9EIX/IR8EIX. I got them from a spare parts shop near by for 550/- each. Other than that my bike was pretty much ready to take the challenge as I had recently got the overhaul done.
So Sunday I went to Sunil Sir's place and installed the center stand, changed the engine oil, spark plugs.
We cleaned the air filter, removed the restrictor that I usually I have in the city.
Sunil sir also gave loads of tools so that I can open at least the common things like tank, air filter, etc.

So now my bike was more or less ready for the trip but not that satisfied as it hasn't gone to a professional hand for the checkup before the long trip.
The last week before the trip I was just completing my office work and then I see a call from my mechanic. I spoke to him and he was worried about my trip that how am I going without much of the bike prepared. He said he'll be opening his workshop and I can leave the bike with him for a day and he'll fix whatever he can. I did the same, left the bike and he cleaned the carburettors, serviced the forks, and a general checkup of the bike. Everything was good and the bike was ready to be shipped on train.

While packing the things there was this nervousness in me and a lot of questions; whether I am packing correct things, whether I am packing more, whether I am packing less? But then packing more never hurts apart from you or your bike carrying it around; that too I am riding solo through the mountains on a bike which if unfortunately goes bad, nobody locally would be willing to put his hands on. Eventually I indeed ended up over packing

So this is how the trip preparations went on till the last day. I was still not sure of the weather on the Manali route and the crisis going on in the Kashmir valley. A lot of different reviews were coming along in the news and the forums about the same. Some said it is ok, some said it is so bad that you can't even go. I kept on visiting forums and the other places on the web for the updates. One such link which was helpful was this one:
high road to..
I don't know who is the owner but it helped a lot to keep myself updated with the road conditions of Manali - Leh Highway.

But then I thought I'll see circumstances and do accordingly and hence there was no turning back.

Apologies for the lack of pictures in the post. I didn't start clicking pictures until the last of day in Bangalore as I was too busy finishing my office work and trip preparations.

Blog Link: The Touring Diary: Trip Preparations and Thoughts

Lovely teaser pics Sumit..

Waiting for the rest of the things to come up...

Day 0: Bangalore to Delhi on train with the bike

Thanks Inder
Continuing...

2nd - 4th July:

So the D-day had come, July 2 Friday, I had decided to finish my work in office leave early say by 3 o clock so that I get the bike packed and book it on the train I was about to travel, Yeshwantpur to Nizammudin Sampark Kranti express. The train choice was obvious because I wanted to book the bike in a train which starts from Bangalore and ends in Delhi or Nizammudin. I came to office early and finish up as much work as possible. I got a call from Santosh who was also about start his trip one day earlier than I was supposed to. He had already booked and shipped his bike to Delhi and he gave me details of the booking procedure and that's when I realized that I had left my bike's registration book at home only which meant I'll have to go back to my house, go to the station, book the bike, come back, take the luggage and again go to the station and start my travel. Obviously I didn't have that much of time. Hence I decide to go home take luggage, put it on my bike just as I would do on the trip and go to the station.
I reached home and this is how my bike looked:


Notice the bike's tire, already showing signs wear and tear



Although the setting wasn't perfect and the width of the bags were way out of the scope of bike's width. But I managed to reach the station without hitting any other vehicle
Straight away I went to the packing guy in front of the station and asked him to pack the bike in a proper way. He normally charges 300/- but seeing my bike he asked me 350/-. I said to him if he'll pack my bike in the best possible way so that it doesn't get damaged. He agreed to put more of packing material to ensure the same.




My bike getting packed in usual way the train luggage is packed but with extra bubble wrap and cardboard paper. After the packing was done I put my luggage in the cloak room so that I can take the bike in the booking counter.
I took the bike to the counter gave the required documents (copy of bike's registration book, id proof) and the officer made a bill of 1670/- for the bike and I gave 1700/- to the guy and he never returned the change. This is the time from then on money talks to get your work done. Govt offices just work like that. After getting the paper work done they asked me to move the bike to the storage area from where the luggage is supposed to be transferred to respective platforms. Two guys came and started asking question about which train the bike should go in and then they started their usual drama that there are a lot of bikes already to loaded and my bike would go only in the next day's train. I knew all they wanted is money in levy of taking the bike to the right place. They asked for a 1000 bucks but I said it is just one bike and it is urgent. If they aren't taking it I'll take it myself. Then they agreed for 500 and no less. I gave them the money and the guy took the bike to the platform in front of the luggage compartment and said that he'll come to load the bike in the train. It was 8 o clock by that time and I just had to wait for the train to be opened and bike to go in.
At around 9.30- 10 o clock the train was opened and guys came to load the luggage but I didn't see the other guy whom I paid the money for loading the bike properly in. The other guys started loading the stuff into the train except the bike. Worried I was and I just asked one of the guys. He was drunk to an extreme level that he could barely speak to me. Somehow he talked and asked 300/- to load the bike into the train. The time was running out and I didn't have time to search for the other guy I paid and ask him. I agreed and paid him the money. They loaded the bike on train not in a great way. They put 2 other bikes on the compartment, both leaning on my bike and their handles resting on my bike's tank. I was so worried I asked the guys so many times to keep the bikes separately but all in vain. All the other luggage things were thrown in and the luggage room was sealed. I couldn't do much now hence I got my luggage from the cloak room and headed towards my seat praying to God that nothing happens to the bike....

At 10:20PM the train started and so did my journey.
I was supposed to reach Delhi on 4th July morning. Two days train travel and I was joined by a Punjabi family with lots of kids. I had a good time with them playing movie names, country names, etc. I shared my pencil sketches I kept in my Ipod with them and they liked it a lot.

The time past and 4th July I reached Delhi and all the time I was worried about my bike. Straight away I went to the luggage room to check my bike and it looked fine from the outside.
It was 10:00am I once again put my luggage in cloak room so that I can get my bike released from the station.

Blog Link: The Touring Diary: Bangalore to Delhi on train with the bike

keep it coming buddy. I'm looking forward to read it and i have just todat/tonight for it as i m leaving for my hometown where i won't be able to access net.

Hey brother good to see you here... m waiting for more

Awesome writeup.

PS:- Right now I am at my wife's native (Village) with no work to do. Please keep posting throughout the night

Day 1 - 4th July, Delhi: Around Delhi and To Chandigarh

Thanks guys. This trip is a special one for me. My ultimate dream came true; touring in Himalayas was always the dream for me and doing it solo made it so special...

Day 1 - 4th July, Delhi:
Around Delhi and To Chandigarh

I went to the parcel office and as usual I had to wait so much to get it released. Eventually I got it released and while taking the bike out I saw another inspecting the bike and he found that his bike's battery is missing along with other stuff. It seems things had been taken out while it was parked in the store room.
Also one thing to note is that when the luggage reaches the destination, the owner has to get it released within the first 6 hours otherwise there is a charge of 10/- per hour from then on. The guy had come to take his bike after 6 days and he had to pay 6*24*10 = 1440/- which is well more than the amount he must have
paid for the transport plus he lost bike's battery and other stuff. Seeing all this I was just praying that my bike is intact. I took it out of the station paying 50/- yet again to the police guys who faked that he is checking the paper work for the bike. I opened the wrapping of the bike and the bike didn't have any damage whatsoever and I was so happy to see that unlike the last time when we were horrified with the condition of our bikes.
So by now I had already spent approximately 2500/- (including the usual shipping charges) for the bike to be transported till Delhi thanks to open and empty pockets of railway officials at every step.


Now that I got my bike out I had to get my luggage and for that I need to park my bike in a proper so that I can go get my luggage from the cloak room. Traveling alone has its disadvantages. How I wanted someone that I can leave the bike with and get my luggage. Anyways I had to figure an effective way to deal with it and I parked my bike in the railways parking and got my bags. I noticed that since I had not kept the bags properly on the bike while getting to the railway station in Bangalore, they were torn from the sides and next thing I had to do was search a cobbler who can fix it. This is where disadvantage of over-packing showed. It was very humid and I had to carry 4 bags all by myself and roam around the crowded place like Nizammudin station. Luckily I found a cobbler nearby and gave the bags for fixing. By this time I had drank 3 or 4 glasses of lemon-aerated water that is sold by guys around delhi roads costing 5/- a glass. It was so refreshing that I can't explain how I felt.

My bags getting tucked from inside so that it doesn't get torn again while touring

The bags were fixed and then I called up my college friend Nitin who stays in Delhi and asked about his plan. He asked me to come to his house before leaving for Chandigarh which was my initial plan i.e. as soon as I get the bike I'll push off for Chandigarh. I asked him about the route to his house and by 3 o clock I reached his house. Nitin and his mum welcomed me in the house. We had a nice lunch thanks to Nitin's mummy and then Nitin and I went out to buy some things that I couldn't buy before. Nitin had some work and I had to prepare to start for Chandigarh the same day. On the way to Nitin's house I called several people informing my whereabouts and told that I have reached safe and sound. The bike was running very heavy and was vibrating too much. I called my mechanic, Irshad Bhai, and asked him the reason for it because all this while the bike was running fine and suddenly this happened and the reason was beyond me. He immediately suggested me to remove the air restricter that I had again installed in Bangalore.
While preparing for Chandigarh I removed the tank and removed the air restrictor. I was putting everything back in the bike and I noticed and there was a huge leak from the petrol tank when I used to start the bike. I checked the leak and found out that the fuel pipe from the tank had got cut probably because of my mishandling while putting the tank back on the bike.
I thought this is not a great start for my trip as I was already late starting for Chandigarh and I didn't know if I can find a mechanic near by to fix the problem. I headed out to look for one and luckily I found one just beside a petrol bunk. He replaced the pipe and it looked good to go. I came back put my luggage on the bike fastened two of the bungee chords Sunil sir gave me so that the bags aren't moving much on the bike which previously caused the tear in the bags.
It was 5 o clock by that time and I still hadn't started for Chandigarh. I was worried that on the first day itself I'll have to ride in the night. But since the road to Chandigarh from Delhi is all the way a four lane highway and it was just 250 kms I hoped to reach Chandigarh in close to 4 hours.
Finally I started my road trip a little late but still I was hoping to make up time on the way. One more thing I didn't buy for the trip was a torch and I decided that I would buy it from Delhi itself. I bought one from a departmental store closeby and started towards Chandigarh.
After some asking from the local guys I got the road to Chandigarh which is called "GT Karnal" road. This road as I told is a 4 lane all the way and kind of boring. Since I already lost so much of time I decided to do this leg with minimal breaks possible. I took two breaks on the way and unfortunately I didn't take any pictures on the way. I was just focused on reaching Chandigarh withing 9 o clock so that I can search for a decent place to stay, I didn't want to roam around with so much of luggage at midnight in Chandigarh.
July 4th and 5th was the day for Bharat Band against the ever increasing inflation which meant none of the shops were open on the way and so were hotels. This posed another question and that was finding a place to stay in Chandigarh if everything is closed. But then I couldn't have done other than carrying on to Chandigarh. The road was deserted which in one way helped me as I didn't have to worry about traffic and I could continue to ride fast (90-100kmph) all the way. By around 9:30pm I reached Chandigarh and started looking for Sector 22 which is where we stayed during our last trip, This sector has most number of hotels and also affordable.
Chandigarh is the most planned city I have seen in India where you get to see proper sign boards giving directions to places. I reached sector 22 and after about 10 minutes of searching I spotted a Hotel by name "Hotel Chandigarh" how obvious name
I parked my bike and asked if rooms are available, the guy said yes and told me that AC rooms are 1200/- and non AC rooms are 1000/- bucks. I hesitated for a minute and the guy himself said that he'll give me an AC room for 1000/- with taxes inclusive. I agreed after some thought as it was getting late and I didn't want to go searching for another hotel. I got off the luggage from the bike and left the bungee chords on the bike for just 5 minutes. After putting the luggage in the room I came back for the chords and it was gone. Somebody must have flicked it while I was inside the hotel. I felt so bad, not because somebody stole it but because it was given by Sunil sir and they were the good ones of the bungee chords I had. Sunil Sir got it from Singapore and I lost it. But nothing can be done now I learned a valuable lesson of not leaving anything no matter how small it might be unattended...
Went to the room, took bath (after 3 days ) and came out for dinner. Located a dhaba and ordered palak aloo and rotis. While having dinner informed my friends, family that I reached Chandigarh. Came back to my hotel room and crashed. Also planned to leave early from Chandigarh so that I can avoid the heat and reach Amritsar by noon or later.
So this is how my first day of the road trip went. Not very smoothly but who said everything would be smooth going . This is something you have to take into account on a road trip; things, bike going wrong, losing time, etc. If you ask me this is what makes the trip spicy

Blog Link: The Touring Diary: Around Delhi and To Chandigarh

this thread will be like a guide on what to do and what not do while touring solo apart from being a travelogue of a dream come true
and sir, already you are 5 months late(yes i know you had your reasons), now please hurry up

@Sunil: Solid stuff! I absolutely LOVE such detailed travelogues. Moreover, such a massive trip needs one to write in detail to do justice to it fully.

Kudos!

Epic in the making. Itna delay mat karo, jaldi jaldi post karo

Thanks guys
@Aryan: It's Sumit not Sunil
By the way our own Sunil (hisunil) also did a Himalaya trip not on bike but with his Family

Continuing with logs...
Warning: Very long post

July 5th, Day 2: Chandigarh to Amritsar and places around

Early morning I woke up and a surprise was waiting for me. It was raining heavily and
although other tourers love riding in rains
I personally hate riding in rains; it is just not my preference. Since I needed to cover around 250 kms with not much of mountain roads, I had some freedom to start late and still get to Amritsar on time. So I decided to wait till the rains get lighter. At around 9 o clock the rain stopped and I decided to have breakfast, check-out and start my journey for that day. Went out had tea and breakfast in our good old "chai ki tapri" (usual tea shops), checked out of the hotel. I inquired with the hotel guys for the bungee chords that I lost last night but in vain.
Started my journey to a historically famous place and was very much eager to reach Amritsar to check out several places that I had planned out i.e. Golden Temple and Wagah Border ceremony.
Since it was still raining there were not many people on the road whom I could ask the way to the highway for Amritsar I roamed around here and there for sometime before figuring out the right way, I came to know that I'll have to go towards Jallandhar and then to Amritsar. The roads were still wet and since that day the Bharat Band day the continued to be closed. I wanted to buy some nylon ropes so that I could tie my saddle bags properly on the bike but couldn't find any shops open. After traveling some distance I finally spotted one shop from where I could buy the ropes. I stopped, bought the ropes tied my bags and continued ahead. I came a very bad stretch of roads which was full of slush and the rains had worsened the condition more. I crossed the bad patch and thought of taking a butt break. A break obviously means picture taking time. And this is that I actually started clicking more pictures.





I continued to ride in wet roads which really dislike. However the temperatures were low because of the rains which made easier to ride otherwise with the riding gear on (jacket, gloves, riding pants) it would have been a little difficult.

The roads were completely deserted and every now and then there was a police check post and I was stopped almost everywhere and inquired where am I going and other stuff. I would generally answer their questions that I am going to Amritsar coming from Delhi and their obvious surprising reaction when they come to know that I am traveling alone on a bike. Many suggested me not to as it is too dangerous riding solo.
Where ever I stop I would ask for directions and people will come to help, sometimes they tell wrong directions too. And which is what happened; I was directed to take a rather longer route which took me around 50-70kms more than the actual one. The actual route is through a village named "Una" but I was directed to take a detour which cost me a little more kms. I came to know that I am on a longer route only when I stopped at mechanic's workshop to get bike's tire pressure checked. He told me I should have taken the route towards Una and then to Amritsar. I had clocked around 120 kms till now and still there were some 175kms remaining for Amritsar. It was already noon and 175 kms meant another 4 to 5 hours of travel till I reach Amritsar. After reaching I'll have to search a hotel, check in, dump my things, and the head towards Wagah border. I started doubting that I'll be able make up the time before the Wagah Ceremony starts or not. But anyways pulled aside for my lunch when I spotted a dhaba. I ordered my lunch and cleaned bike's chain as it was totally soiled with mud and water and also it was sounding very bad while running.
This is was my lunch:

Obviously I couldn't finish all of it even though I tried a lot
I then continued towards my destination for the day and shortly after that I reached Jallandhar highway; nicely laid and wide highway where I could go a little faster. Traffic was anyways non-existent because of the "Bandh". Also the weather got cleared up considerably with blue skies all along which also meant temperature slightly going higher and with the riding gear on it gets more difficult to ride.

While I was going faster to cover up more distance this one incident happened which I was afraid of all the time. I was going around 100kmph at one time I overtook a Maruti zen and after about 2 kms or so I hear a lot of honking from behind. It was the same Zen car which I overtook. I slowed down and pulled over to one side so that I could give me side to go ahead thinking he was in some hurry. But he came near me and the lady in the car said to me that my luggage (saddle bags) had fallen down on the way. I looked back and indeed the bags had fallen off. May be due to the bumps on the road the Nylon rope that I tied around the bags had snapped and the bags fell off. I immediately turned back and started looking for my bags. While searching all these thoughts started coming; whether I'll be able to get back the bags, what all things were there in the bag and if at all I lost the bags do I have sufficient things to carry on and finish the trip without it, etc....
After going back for around 2kms I saw one old guy, a Punjabi guy, was carrying the bags on his back and walking towards the opposite direction. When he saw me coming he waved at me. I went to him and he told that he saw my bags falling down from the bike and he immediately picked it up so that no one else picks it and runs away with it. He even told he shooed a guy on scooter who wanted to take the bags away. He gave me the bags and I told him that the rope I tied around snapped. He helped me out in tying the bags back on the bike and which when my right hand touched the bike's exhaust. It was very hot and instantly my fingers got burnt pretty intensely. I poured water on it for sometime till it stopped hurting. While I tying the bags I noticed that there was one of the packing material that came with the bags was missing. The old man said it must be left at the place where the bags fell off. I asked him took look for my stuff till I go back and get that packing material but he said he will go and pick up the thing and bring it to me and he asked me to stay. He did find the thing and brought it back. I then asked the old guy whether I could do anything for me for his good deed of saving my bags. But he said he doesn't need anything and he said main thing was he could save his bag from getting picked up by the wrong guys and he could give it back to me. I was so moved by this gesture. I thought still people like him exist on the this planet. If it was some urban city I am sure I wouldn't have got my bags back. I thanked him a lot and I continued my journey. I was thinking what if this thing had happened on the mountains and the bags had fallen off the higher roads to the bottom of the valley I wouldn't have got it back. Hence I decided to keep an eye on the bag while riding and also this time I tied the bags pretty tightly.

A butt break or should I say pic break:

This trip I had decided to try out my hands on HDRs. And I started taking pictures in Auto Bracketing mode. I had read a tutorial on the web related to this:
Stuck in Customs - HDR Tutorial
I am not that good in photography but this was the perfect time for me to get my hands dirty and learn. On the other hand it was a gamble that I might not be visiting the places again for a long time and messing up the pictures wouldn't be a good idea. I thought how bad can it be if I do mess up the pics
I started and soon after the break a car pulled beside me and started asking something which I couldn't hear. The car pulled over in front of me and I had to stop and a bunch of 4 guys came out of the car and started coming towards me. I got worried a little bit thinking all sorts of possibilities. I thought is this the time when the suggestions I got by the local people, about riding solo is dangerous, is coming true?
But nothing of that sort happened. The guys were friendly, they just stopped for asking about me and my bike and where I was going. I told them about my bike, my route and where am I heading. They were impressed and they actual cleared the doubts that I had, of not making to Amritsar and Wagah border on time. They said the ceremony starts only at 6.15 or so and there is plenty of time left. After taking some pictures of the bike they continued and I also continued towards my destination; a little relieved from both worries i.e. reaching on time and also the other bad possibility .

By 4 o clock I reached Amritsar and started looking for a hotel. But it was all closed/half closed.
Roamed around for about half an hour and then decided to do what works best in India i.e. asking people around. They told the obvious solution to find a hotel which I also had thought earlier and that is to head towards the main bus stand of Amritsar and search. I did that and all the hotel in front of the bus stand were half closed and not sure if they were operational or not. I anyways to one of the hotels named "Hotel Shangrila". The guy said both AC/NonAC rooms are available and the price for AC room was 800/- with taxes extra. It getting really dry and hot and being from Bangalore, where the climate is so moderate, I was feeling the heat more and I thought of taking an AC room itself. He showed me the room and I liked it and checked it. I asked the guy about the bike being safe outside and he said daytime I can keep it outside, at night I can bring the inside the office and park there. I was satisfied with the stipulation because I anyways will be out for daytime visting Golden Temple and Wagah border.
Took much needed bath and came out for heading towards Wagah. But then the hotel guy suggested that I should also visit Jalianwala Bagh which is hardly a kilometer away from the place, then go to wagah and then I can visit Golden Temple which is open till midnight. I thought why not! I had only read about the tragedy that happened at Jalianwala Bagh in the time British Rule in India and I must pay visit at the historic place. I would not go into the details of what happened in Jalianwala Bagh. The links that I provided describe the tragic event.
Some pictures of the place. Reading/Seeing the things there made me very sad and angry too on the atrocities in those times by the guys on Indian people:





An Artist's depiction of the event. Wanted to take a full shot of the painting but couldn't because of the crowd plus I didn't have apt camera lens.











Walking down the narrow entrance to the memorial, knowing what happened there in the past, one can feel the chill. The experience was very overwhelming for me.
After spending some time there I moved towards the Wagah border to attend the daily ceremony that happens in the evening. It is 25kms from Amritsar and it's all the way a straight road which connects Pakistan and India and that is NH1. More can be read here
I reached the place in 20-30 minutes and I was asked to park my bike and from their one has to walk or there are richshaw walas who will charge 10/- per person and they'll drop you till the point where the Military security check happens and then you go ahead to the ceremony place just 50mts away from the border.
Before going to the security I deposited my camera bag, helmet to a local guy as one is not allowed to carry any luggage along
Note: One thing to note here is whenever someone is visiting Wagah ceremony do not carry many things (especially anything valuable) along as they will ask to deposit every thing except your camera, wallet, etc to local guys who charge 10/- per item. Now the things are safe but there is every possibility of things getting misplaced.

Walking towards the border



It was "Bharat Bandh" but still there were hundreds of people gathered for the ceremony





Flags withdrawn in the evening
The atmosphere was electric with the ceremony going on and people chanting "Vande Mataram", "Hindustan Zindabad" and at the same time the other side chanting their own slogans praising Pakistan. The ceremony is executed by the Military guys from both sides doing exactly the same steps. Every actions is performed with so much of power, enthusiasm and anger; you tend to get drawn into it and yet again the feeling is overwhelming. One has to be there to experience it, it cannot be explained in words. I took a lot of pictures of the ceremony but due to lack of a zoom lens the above ones are some of them that came out good.
After the ceremony was over I came back to Amritsar to visit the famous The Harmandir Sahib, The Golden Temple
Reached the gates of the temple and was searching for a parking place when I was directed by the police men to the free parking provided by the Temple authorities and I was told that it is the safest place to park my bike. I parked and then went inside. Removed my shoes, tied the customary band (I don't know what it is called) and entered the premises. The first sight itself leaves you spell bound. Riding all day and then standing in the sun for the ceremony at Wagah, my head had started aching but after spending some time, taking pictures of the place my pain automatically got better. Took pictures of the temple from different angles, called my friends and family telling them where am I and what all other places I visited that day. Spoke to dad and told him that next day I'll start traveling towards the Kashmir and following two days will be of little worry as the situation in Kashmir hadn't improved. Mum told me that it started raining very heavily after I left Chandigarh. I was lucky not to get caught and stuck in Chandigarh itself. I also spoke to my best friend Artee telling her about my journey so far and she was all jealous hearing my story She so wanted to join so me on this trip but somehow couldn't. She has promised me that next time she will definitely join. Lets hope so fingers crossed
Some pictures at the Golden Temple:




Asked one person to click my picture with the temple





Beautiful and Magnificent

I came back to my hotel room feeling very happy that I visited the places that I had planned for the day despite all the delay.
Next day was starting travel to the north and towards the mountains. All this while I riding in the plains. The biggest problem was the tense situation in Kashmir and the curfew imposed. But still reaching that place was one day apart. I planned to reach Patnitop hill station in Jammu the next day which was around 230kms from Amritsar.

Links: Golden Temple
Jalianwala Bagh
Wagah Border

Blog Posts:
The Touring Diary: Chandigarh to Amritsar
The Touring Diary: Around Amritsar