wonderful

Good stuff... really appreciate for sharing your trip log with us.

Thanks a lot guys for the appreciation
Apologies for the delay but here is my next day's log:

12 July 2010
Day 9 Tso Moriri - Tso Kar - Pang - Sarchu

So a new day and new route which I was about to take. As Nam Gayal told me the route is all jeep tracks and long (120kms + 30kms till I reach Sumdo) hence starting early was the ideal option. I had told Nam Gayal that I'll be leaving early and asked him what would be the ideal time. He told me he'll prepare tea for me and I can leave 7AM and I can cover the distance till Pang or may be Sarchu all in daylight.
I woke up at around 6, packed all the things. The previous night I had started the GPS on my mobile to check the altitude of the place and I forgot to switch it off. By morning it had drained the battery quite a lot
I quickly put the phone on charging, I called in Nam Gayal and asked him to prepare tea for me.
While the tea was being prepared he gave me a little tour of his house and told this is his ancestors house and his family is staying here since ages. I had tea and clicked some pictures of the lake:




It was still very cold brr...

After tea I went to see if my bike is okay or not. I was worried as it wasn't parked in a shade and was doubtful that it'll start easily because of such cold weather. I removed the cover and tried cranking it, it did not start. I took it out on the road and tried cranking a couple times and voila it came to life. I was so relieved. I let it run for some time and I went in to get my bags. I told Nam Gayal that I am leaving and asked him for the amount that I have to pay him. He told it was 250/- for the room and 50/- for the food. I paid him the money and when I was about to leave he asked me for something which was very difficult choice for me. Nam Gayal had already seen my bags and probably noticed that I am carrying extra petrol with me for the route. He asked me if I can give him some petrol for his Gypsy as he was out of petrol. I had around 6 litres of petrol with me and even I had given him a couple of litres to him, keeping the rest for me, wouldn't have made sense for his Gypsy as he wouldn't be able to go anywhere a petrol seller (which was probably 60kms back in chumathang). I told the same to him and he concurred my thoughts and he said he can arrange petrol from other sources and I should better keep reserve petrol as much as possible due to the bad roads all the way till Tso Kar.
I tied all the baggage on to the bike and also applied chain lube, the dusty roads had made the chain very dry. I also bought some biscuits just in case I don't get any thing on the way.

So I was off to my journey clicking pictures on the way:


It was the same route through which I reached Korzok village.

Took a picture of myself on the bridge on which the donkey welcomed when I going towards the Tso Moriri lake



After sometime I reached the same lake which mistook as Tso moriri the previous day



Finally I reached the village Sumdo from where I had to take left for Tso Kar (taking right will lead me back to Mahe Bridge). I just said a small prayer and took the left. The road bettered a little bit compared to what I faced but it was still jeep tracks with small rocks and pebbles.
Sitting back in my chair when I look at the pictures all along the trip, I realized that I missed taking pictures of what kind of roads exactly I have been through, took more pics of the landscapes in my drinks break... Probably because I was concentrating too much on moving forward and also seeing those breathtaking landscapes I used to forget all about the hardships I was facing. That is the magic of Himalayas I feel, no matter how treacherous the conditions are it still is heaven on earth.
But my next trip I have decided to take snaps all around me and not just land scapes...

I passed Sumdo village there were some people around but after I passed it the roads were deserted. Earlier I was able spot a tent or two if not some inhabitation but this time it was totally deserted. The route reminded me of a route from my previous trip and that was Pangong Lake to Chushul. Read Here. The only difference back then was that I was with the team and this time I was all by myself.

Occasionally I would spot a house or a shade

As I passed through those roads, along with the road there was a small water stream which had very less water but lots of white powder-ish deposit (as visible in the above and below pics). Also there was a pungent smell all around. I have no idea what that material was nor I could figure the cause of that smell. But if I have to guess I would say the water stream was from the bigger lakes around which have saline water. And the deposit is some kind of salt deposit after the water has evaporated and hence the smell all around too.

I was very curious about the deposits and wanted to touch it and see. Stopped for a drinks break and went to this solidified mass and touched it. It was solid and the smell was definitely emitting from the white stuff...

It was all solid and probably salty...


The deposits were all over the place...


As I turned back to my bike I saw this sight. Bike looked so tiny compared to the mountain...

I continued ahead and I came up to an interesting thing and that was, there was nobody around nor any houses I spotted a "Residential School" (forgot the name and yet again didn't take a snap of the school, my bad) located in that place.

I wasn't very sure of the route, though there was only one route. This was probably because of lack of seeing population around ; My speed was less 20 km/hr due to the jeep tracks and there was no one around. I was feeling bored and probably started imagining things such as this..

I saw a bifurcation in the road. One was going straight ahead and another one turned left and there were some houses on the left turn. I got confused as Nam Gayal had told me that I would have to take the diversion to the left for Tso Kar. I took that left and ended up in front of a locked gate of some factory. I turned back and reached the junction again, by the time I reached I saw a Jeep coming from the village Sumdo and it headed straight ahead. I just followed the jeep for sometime, it killed some of my boredom until it disappeared crossing a pass.
Countering the bad roads, my forearms had started paining a bit. It is the thing called "arm-pump", which generally happens with the racers, where every time I pull the clutch lever I would have a pricking pain in my forearms; also it gets difficult to hold on to the handle bar. Some link I found related to it over the web:
Identifying Arm Pump and How to Relieve it All Together
How to Prevent Arm Pump Whilst Riding a Motocross

After some twists and curves the landscape opened up and it was all plains, with snow covered mountain at a distance and Tso Kar lake in front of it. Clicked some photographs:





The roads got a little better with only small pebbles on the road but still very bumpy and arrow straight. Something like this:


Whenever I used to take a drinks break and switch off the engine there will be this silence all around me with just the whooshing sound of the wind. I would just click some pictures drink some water and just relax walking around the place all alone. I truly enjoyed this experience though a good company would have made it so much more worthwhile.

From a distance I could see Tso Kar lake which mostly looked dried up with the same white deposits around what looked like water from a distance. Somehow I couldn't make up my mind to take a detour to go near the lake as I didn't see anything interesting or something for which I make my bike go through all the off-roading hence I just clicked the pictures from a distance and continued ahead.


By now I had clocked around 150kms from Korzok village and it was around 12 o clock. You can very well imagine how slow I was going; 150kms in approx 5 hours. I was taking frequent drinks break as it was very sunny and the sun was pricky. Took pics whenever I stopped.


Soon I was greeted with the tarmac road and I was delighted as it was 5 hours since I had been traveling on the bad roads. Now I could go smooth without hurting my forearms.

I said to myself enjoy this tarmac as long as it lasts and yes after some 30kms it again changed to dusty, bad roads. By now I had figured out that I am very near to Moore Plains as the kind of landscape I was seeing was very familiar. This was the third time I would be riding the area. I reached a bifurcation and again I was confused as I was previously in the day to go in which direction. I started going left and reached a construction sight and there were guys working there. I said to myself that I should better ask for the way than to wasted petrol by going in wrong direction and coming back. I asked them for Pang and they pointed in the opposite direction. Indeed I was going in the wrong direction towards Tanglang La(second highest pass in the world, close to 18000 ft). I turned back and continued ahead to reach Moore Plains. Took a pic:



As I was moving towards Pang and Baralacha la (third highest pass in the world, 16600ft) I was concerned about the weather as when I started my trip I had seen torrid weather conditions there.
Soon I crossed a group of bikers coming from Pang, I stopped them just to know about the route ahead. They told it cleared up from last two days and the weather isn't that bad but it snows intermittently. They asked me about Tanglang La but I told them I am coming from a different direction and didn't get to cross Tanglang La. Waved bye to them and I reached the checkpost of Pang. I parked my bike and asked a tent owner if I can buy petrol from somewhere. He told me I can buy petrol but it will be very expensive (100/- for 1 litre bottle) and won't be pure too. I got worried because I was still quite far away from the next petrol in the place called Tandi. Seeing my worried place the guy got very sentimental and he said to me that he will get you petrol but if his aunty knows that he gave me petrol it won't be good for him. He asked me to wait inside the checkpost and he'll bring the petrol. I went inside the checkpost, entered my details there and waited for the guy. After sometime the guy came with two bottles full till the brim. I asked him how much I have to give and he asked for 60/- per bottle but I gave him 150/- and thanked him a lot for his gesture.
This is what I like about the Ladakhi people, they are ready to help people even though if it needs to go out of their comfort level. I have high respect for them...

I went inside a tent and ordered some food. It was 1 o clock and I reached Pang in pretty good time. My next target was to Sarchu and stay there as I wasn't sure if I can make it to Baralacha and beyond.
As I was having lunch I was joined by a family traveling on a white sedan and that family is a BCMTian: Deepika whose adventure thread is already running here: The most thrilling advent tour to Leh Ladakh JULY'10

Had a nice little chat with them.

Also I met a guy who was the owner of the company which manufactures the saddle bags that I was using. Seeing the bags the guy approached me and asked how are the bags working out on the trip. I gave him the feedback. Incidentally the company is based out of Bangalore only and he invited me to come to his showroom and offered me to replace the rain cover that had got torn when I dropped my bags back on the way to Amritsar. He also gave me some stickers of his company. He took a pic of the bike with the bags on and I left from Pang.

I had just crossed the famous Kangla Jal water crossing and I was going slowly as there were huge slippery pebbles on the road. Suddenly my bike stalled and the rear tyre slipped and bang! I was on the road with my left leg caught underneath the bike. I couldn't lift the bike because of my leg. Fortunately there were a couple of Jeeps around and the drivers came running towards me to help me out. They lifted the bike and I could get me leg free. They told me to be careful, I thanked them. Couple of foreigners also came to my help and asked me if I was okay. I took this pic after that:



I was trying to figure the cause of my fall and I guessed probably it was because of the extra weight in the back due to the petrol I am carrying in my rucksack which caused the rear to slip. I poured the 5 litre can petrol in the tank and also shifted the weight to the tank bag and other bags.

Continued ahead to climb Nakeela, another high pass, I was accompanied by two jeeps carrying Irish tourist I guess. As I reached Lachlung La, tourist had also reached there and they were all happy, dancing, etc.


I asked the driver of the jeep to take my photograph:
I was at leisure now since it's only till Sarchu I had ride and I had a lot of time. I'll let the pictures do the talking for some time now


Yours truly posing but that's not my bike parked behind me




Biking on the edge


Biking on the edge 2


It was strange to see sunlight on one mountain and dense clouds on another.
Soon I reached the famous 21 Gata Loops, I saw the milestone and started descending down. But in the middle this thought in my mind that how much drop in altitude there is while crossing the Loops. Took a U-turn and went back up, clicked the pictures of the milestone mentioning the heights.




Spot the jeeps and riders on the right most curve of the loops


As it turned out it was a drop of 1522ft in altitude








Sarchu Tents from a distance and saw this magnificent display of setting Sun and its light

I reached Sarchu by 6PM and picked one of the tents. It was very very cold and windy there. Apparently Sarchu is the coldest place along the Manali-Leh Highway mostly due to the glacier that flows next to the place to stay.
The tent owner was a lady came out and asked me if I needed a stay. I said yes and the moment she heard that she hugged me with happiness. I was very moved by this and then figured out that since the weather hasn't been kind in the place, there are not many tourists that visiting and hence the business they are supposed to do in their summer season.
I opted to stay in that tent itself. I was shivering due to cold, apparently 3-4 layers of clothes were able to keep me warm. The lady asked me to sit near the kerosene burner on which she was preparing tea for me. She had two little kids with her with whom I started playing. I gave them the stickers that I got from the saddle bag company owner in Pang. The kids were happy and the younger stuck all the stickers at one place or the other in the tent, he even put one on his forehead






I was having fun with them and was talking to the lady about this year's weather and how the people staying there have suffered from lack of vegetable supply etc and how the kids aren't able to go to school due to rains and bad weather.
By 8PM she made me dinner, I had nice daal, rice, rotis, etc and then tried to sleep. But I wasn't able to sleep properly, I was shivering so much and it was all involuntary; I just couldn't stop shivering. It reminded of the night from the previous Leh trip when we had to spend the night in the scorpio near a water stream without a sleeping bag; read here.
Seeing that, the lady put one more big blanket over me which comforted me quite a lot and I was able to sleep.
Next day I hadn't planned as to where to stop, I had thought if I could reach Keylong it would be nice. But of course before that I had to cross Baralacha La which was one of the two passes where the situation was dicey. But anyways I still had enough in hand so that I could reach Delhi in time for my flight.
Next day as usual planned to wake up early and start towards Keylong. BUT!!! It was so cold!!!(I would get to know how cold only later in the trip...)

Blog Post: The Touring Diary: Day 9 Tso Moriri - Tso Kar - Pang - Sarchu
Flickr Album: Himalayas '10 - a set on Flickr

Came across your thread today, couldn't go through in detail but the latest set of pics just look superb .... It makes everybody go there and experience the whole heavenly feeling on earth in REAL

Love your BIKE paint scheme ... (OT- Didn't know that Comets were still available in 2006 but sure is a great Tourer )...May be catch u on some G2G for more ..will go through in detail later but cant wait to read more about the Comet getting Leh'd ... COMET in some of the pics looks superb man

Probably every tourer wants to visit Leh once on his/her bike, a place which gives every human an idea as to how small we are in comparison with some of the GODs other great creations ... Philosophy

Thanks
Comet was available till early 2006. The paint scheme is my own custom one. Original one had silver chassis.

Yeah! one realizes how small we are only when he sees nature's magnificent creations such as Himalayas...

Took 3 Hours to read your complete thread . Didn't had much work in office today . Nice one buddy. Nice writeup and amazing pics. Keep it up.

13th July 2010
Day 10 Sarchu - Baralacha La - Keylong - Koksar - (Night halt in the middle of no where)

I woke up at 6-6:30am and started preparing for the onward journey. It was very very cold.
I came out of the tent and watched the mountains beyond which I needed to go via Baralacha La. I could a lot of clouds, though there was a bright sunshine where I was. The climate didn't look right from a distance.
But first you gotta do what you gotta do if you know what I am saying. I asked the tent lady about the toilets whether there is any around. She said there isn't any and I will have to find a spot in the mountains or ridges in the mountains . So be it. Won't go into those details now but that was another first for me

One thing that I forgot to tell about the last day was that when I fell down near Kangla Jal, for some reason the bike's speedometer stopped working. It was as if half connected because sometimes it would show some speed reading and sometimes it will be dead. Funny it was because I had crossed such bad terrain in past couple of days the cable held itself all the while and when it was rather less rocky road it gave away
When it stopped the reading on the meter was 2120kms. And I still had around 800kms to travel till Delhi. So it will be well close to 3000kms for the whole trip.

I realized that I had forgotten my tooth brush in Korzok village itself. Fortunately the tent lady had toothbrushes and other stuff for sale. Bought one from her. While brushing I noticed that the two kids had also woken up and the little one was still playing with the stickers I gave him. I thought I should give the elder one also something. I had bought a keyring and a cap from the Tololing War memorial in Drass and decided to give away any of things the kid liked. The kid picked up the keyring and he was very happy

I asked the kids to pose for me for the camera they happily did, Check out the photo. This photo for me is the best ever that I have ever clicked. If I have to pick the best one among the one's I clicked in the trip, THIS would be it.

Another one with yours truly in the frame


Showed it to the kids and their aunt, they were very happy.

While I was playing with the kids I saw the other riders (Rajan and Parag), whom I met earlier in the trip, riding past me. I waved at them and they continued.

Soon after I also packed my bags, removed the bike cover and took out the bike and tried firing it up. The battery had discharged a lot and hence wasn't taking the load of the starter motor. I remembered the scene from Angels Demons when the french lady seeing the battery in the bomb says "It is very cold isn't it. Cold temperatures make the battery discharge fast." This was probably the case with my bike's battery too. I pushed the bike a little uphill so that I can push start the bike but it didn't start. I tried a couple of times, all in vain. I thought I'll let it be under the sun and then try again after sometime. By that time I'll settle the bill with the tent lady. She had prepared tea and breakfast for me. I had breakfast and asked her how much, she calculated and said 250/- I took out the 500 rupees note and handed over to her and told her to keep it. I was sad that climate hasn't been favorable because of which not many tourist had come and not much of business for them. It was apparent from the fact that I was the only one who had spent the night in the tent which can hold at least 20 (or more) people. The lady was so happy and she again hugged me I was also happy after all she took care of me so nicely.

I said goodbye to the kids and the tent lady and again tried cranking up my bike, it didn't start but showed signs of coming to life. In a couple of more cranks the engine started and a big relief for me.

I started my journey towards Keylong, jispa but I didn't have any plans where exactly I will stop for this day. For once I thought if time permits I will cross Rohtang pass and stop in Manali but that all depends upon condition at Rohtang. All this while I wasn't hearing good things about it. Anyways I had come this far and this was the only way to reach Delhi now.
I still had 4 days to reach Delhi, pack my bike for Bangalore and catch my flight on 18th. I wasn't too much worried even if I lose one day here and there.
I went slowly enjoying the view around clicking pics as and when I liked (perqs of touring alone )













Baralacha La top




I thought it was all solid rock My foot went right in


As I said it became whiter and whiter and whiter





I reached the semi frozen Sooraj Taal. A lot of tourist were there staring at the beautiful landscape. Most of them were foreigners.  I went a little ahead of the lake and parked my bike as I noticed a lot of rocks lying on the road itself which meant there was a possibility of landslide in that area. Obviously because of the semi solid snow covering the lose rock which can come down the mountain anytime. The tourists were walking on the road along the lake but their drivers were asking them to come back inside the vehicle, the drivers were also worried because of the landslides.


I thought it was worth taking a risk and enjoying the fabulous sight, taking a picture or two...




Asked a gentle man to click my picture

Started descending down and I was greeted by couple of water crossings one of which was really scary. Fortunately I didn't lose balance while crossing those and came out dry except for my shoes and socks.
This is where I crossed the BCMTian on a Karizma whom I asked before crossing how deep the water stream was.

I reached the final few turns before the place called ZingZing bar and was stopped by a bulldozer cleaning up the road. Had to wait for half an hour for the road to be cleared up. I took out my shoes and socks and put it on the bike so that it dries up otherwise it is such a bad feeling wearing a wet sock inside a cold shoe




The tents of zingzing bar were visible from this point



I passed through this rock lying dangerously on the road. Good that this fell down when no vehicle was passing by...



Soon enough the climate opened up and landscape also changed to greener from being white.




The clouds were still covering the peaks near Baralacha La





Stopped in Zingzing bar tent. I thought of having some food as well as asking about the road ahead. Now that I had crossed Baralacha La, my next concern was the last peak that stood ahead (which was probably the most dicey of all). The guy prepared omelette and tea. I asked him about the route he didn't tell me much as he was a resident of Keylong only hence didn't know about the route further from Keylong. I chatted with him showed him the photographs I took on the trip. He was amazed with the beauty of the mountains. He said to me it is the tourists who enjoy the mountains more than the people residing there. He told that he has never gone past Baralacha La in any recent past. I said yeah that is true and gave my example that though I stayed in my hometown for so long but I never visited the National park (Kanha National Park) very near to my city.....I said goodbye to him and continued ahead.







Soon I reached lake called Deepak Taal where last time Prabhu took a dip in the icy water
I met BCMT members here. They were coming from Rohtang side and told that condition isn't that great. There were several landslides along the way which might delay my travel. They asked me to be careful while going through Rohtang as it is full of slush.
I told them that I had taken a different route from Kargil to Leh and strongly recommended to take that route, which they did I hope they enjoyed it.

I asked them to click a picture of mine with my bike.





I could see the route I had to go on.



As the BCMT guys told I crossed several water streams some of which were very deep and slippery, fortunately I crossed them successfully.


The vistas are amazing when you descend down to Jispa towards Keylong.



I reached Keylong and I had used up all the extra petrol I was carrying all along the trip. I filled up two litres of petrol in Tandi (the first petrol bunk since Leh). The petrol bunk guys didn't give me more petrol as there was no supply of fuel due to bad weather and landslides happening around.

As I was passing the hotel in which we had stayed in last trip. I saw a lot of bikes parked there, I figured that they have freshly come from Rohtang and stopped for lunch. I would get a better idea if talk to the guys. While having lunch and listening to their conversation about how they crossed Rohtang I got a little concerned. They were saying one would need two people to get his bike out of the mud on the road and there was continuous debris coming down from the top which would sweep a rider while crossing the slushy areas. I asked them how was it for them and they told it is better to stay in Keylong because the landslides are happening and if at all I get stuck near Rohtang I won't be able to stay anywhere near and I will have to come back to Keylong itself which means waste of fuel doing the to and fro.

I wasn't convinced about the condition as one cannot get sure of how bad the situation is through somebody else's views. Everyone gauges a situation differently, hence I decided to go there and see the situation myself and decide what to do.

Unfortunately yet again I was too focussed to go beyond the point of trouble that I didn't click any pictures what so ever. I would have to suffice with my narration as much as possible

Himachal Pradesh had the most rainfall due to climate change and roads were inundated with water every now and then. I had stop several times because of the cleaning process of the roads. Some patches didn't have any road at all and was full of slush. Somehow I reached the bottom of Rohtang which is koksar village. Stopped there and had tea and asked people about the condition. They told that situation is bad and no vehicle is able to cross Rohtang, all the 4-wheeled vehicles were coming back from the top.
Now that I have reached till this far I decided to go to the last place I could go and see how bad is it. I started climbing rohtang and indeed it was bad. The slush was too much and as high as my knees. Every now and then the bike's rear will start slipping and it will dig deep in the mud  and I will have to push the bike with my legs. It was exhausting and also too harsh for the clutch plates. But I never gave up, falling down would have meant it will be impossible for me alone to pick up the bike in that slippery surface. It was probably harder than it was when I was climbing Khardung La.

I was just praying to god that I don't have to come back this way because it would be much harder to come down than to go up. Eventually I reached the top and noticed no vehicle except for some qualis jeeps were coming back. I asked them how is it and they just said there is no way I can go to the other side. I started descending from the top and reached the point where there are all the tents and shops for tourists. Suddenly a familiar face came out of a shop and waved at me. That was one of the two riders whom I have been meeting frequently through the entire trip i.e. Rajan. I stopped near him and asked what happened. He said that we might have to spend the night somewhere on this pass itself because there is a huge landslide a kilometer ahead of the tents which has taken out an oil tanker too.
I met some other bikers there, two of them were from chandigarh (Jai and Nirmaan) who came via Spiti and other group had come from Bangalore itself.  They told me that there are tonnes of vehicles that are stuck there from last three days and there is no way we can cross it tonight. It does not look good at all.
Now that it was decided that I'll have to spend the night on the top itself I decided to join them. That was the only shop that was functional at that time. It had started drizzling (as usual in Rohtang) and was very misty out there as well as cold. We asked the tent guy if there is any place available for night he said all the tent owners have abandoned the place but he can make some arrangements. He spoke to the horse guys if there is any place and they said they can provide a place where they themselves spend the night with the horses. The shop guy told us it wouldn't clean or good but that is the only thing available; we had no other choice. The shop guy prepared dinner for all of us and the guys were telling that they also stayed in Sarchu last night and one of the guys had a thermometer. It was -2 degrees that night and no wonder I was shivering like anything.
Talking to the guys I really hit off with the two Chandigarh guys and it felt good spending time with them. Sometimes in harsh conditions you do build good friendships

After having dinner we (Parag, Rajan and I) moved to the place where we were supposed to sleep. It was very very small, very smelly, very damp, even the blankets were dampened but at least it was better than sleeping directly under the sky. The night also must be close to zero degrees. But this cold was very different than the cold in Sarchu. It was very cold plus it was damp with the light drizzle.
Spending night in that tent was certainly not at all a comfortable experience but nonetheless it was something an experience to be felt only in Himalayas
I had a hard time sleeping in the tent, it was very cold and I didn't take off my riding jacket. I said a little prayer wishing for the land slide to clear up and slept.
So this is how my day 10 ended up spending night on a high pass. Never expected it but I am happy that I got experience something like this once in my lifetime though I wouldn't like this to happen again

Visit my flickr album for better quality pics (selected ones): Flickr: Sumit!'s Photostream

Wow, superb log.. Lengthy, exactly the way i like it. Oh boy, man im out of words. I wish i can do something adventurous like this.
And your pics are truely great. I guess its time to build your self-esteem on this topic. Many people have also shared this point. Really lovely pics.

Thanks a lot pal.
It is just I really want to share the views just as I saw with my own eyes. And if I screw up the pics there is no back up (from other team members camera) and can't go back, capture those again
And as I mentioned previously, I was experimenting with HDRs and screwing up the pics gets all the more possible
Anyways appreciation from you guys gives me confidence

Thanks for sharing this travelogue sumit. Its very nice!!

The pictures are very nice. I think you are very modest when it comes to the quality of your pictures.

Just loved it.
All the pics are just wow!!!

Thanks Shamil. How have you been

Thanks kashif.

Awesome travelogue Sumit!!!

some of the HDRs are stunning, and yeah, some do look a bit over processed

Hope to meet you in person sometime in Bangalore

I just cant get my eyes off the pics buddy.they are just stunning

Ur blog is simply superb as ur journey wouldve been... Really appreciate your guts to ride all alone.. Hats off bro..