approved...

and grabbed the popcorn too

nice pic there...waiting for more

Yeah right Chitkul and only one teaser pic ..... thats too much bro

Bhaisahab EMI is ok, but thoda increase karo yaar. Just one pic? Please post more, eagerly waiting

Great Start.Loving it and waiting more

have patience guys...day one coming up by this evening

it's evening..

I don't really know where to start from. It was, yet again, when the world was raiding the "famed" mecca of bikers, Leh, that a bell for the same did ring in my mind. I was to start with an new job pretty soon. Moreover, there were financial constrains. Along with all this, I wanted to "explore" the virgin mountains this time. strange for me as I'm a little anti mountains.

I decided to ride for not more than 5 days as I still was on my notice period and did not want to spoil my relations with the present employer. This time I was craving for mountains as the Ride to Chopta left me hungry for more! It was a bang firm decision to ride to cover the Lahaul Spiti Circuit. Considering my fast and consistent riding style, it was easily doable for me, provided we rule out any uncertainties.

Started researching abut the route, places, accommodations etc. over the internet. Got in conversations with many experienced riders and finally a 6 day plan was carved out taking me through the Spiti Circuit covering Key, Kibber, Komik etc. However, I happened to discuss this plan with one of my friends, Gaurav Goel. He worked upon the plan a bit more making it a tad more interesting and adding a few more destinations to cover which stretched the plan to 8 days. I was ok with it considering the amazing places that I would be visiting. He also helped me with accommodation options, alternative routes, riding gear and much more important, moral support.

Came back home late night and slept. The next day I talked to my wife about the ride and the reaction was much anticipated. she was pretty much apprehensive about me staying away from home for almost 8-10 days. Financial constraints, society and what not was added to support her claim...ultimately we argued and disagreement led to a coldwar. For that matter, she is extremely supportive when it comes to my passions and desires. She also was right to some extent. Feeling this, I asked her to allow me to to go for a short ride for 3-4 days to which she readily agreed. Then it came to my thought, "why not visit chitkul"? After all, its a beautiful place and the roads takes you though every bit that I exactly desired! Hence, Chitkul was finalized as the destination. But there was a catch...its still nascent to reveal it, read through and I promise I would not let you down!

The day was here, I was all set to hit the roads next morning. Practiced tying saddle bags on to the rear seat, made a final check and post a scrumptious dinner, went off to sleep. Tomorrow, I would be leaving Delhi by 4.30! As everyone would know, it very hard to catch on some sleep especially when you have to ride early next morning. But I had to cover a huge distance, so taking a nap was very important.

The clock struck 4 in the morning, the wife wok up simultaneously and prepared breakfast which would be munched only after hitting the Himalayan Expressway! It took me no time to freshen up and I was ready to hit the road and by 4.30, the ride was officially flagged off. While the city was still dreaming, I was on a journey of a lifetime. I expected the path to test my patience and hoped that I would prove to be a man of patience. I expected the roads to show me something that still was missing in my chronicles. I expected the ride (Rocky B., 2011, RE C5) to cooperate and do not leave me stranded. I hoped that my soul would gather all the will and power and never shatter before I hit the bed for the night!

By the time hoping and wishing finished, I had already taken a left of the Azadpur Bypass and was riding on the infamous NH1. Lucky are the guys from the foothills of Himalayas such as Chandigarh and Panchkula in Punjab and Rishikesh and Dehradoon for Gharwan/kumaoun. Anti my nature, I kept the revs low and the bike was averaging between 70-80kmph. the morning was cool and I noticed that the newly installed fog lamps failed the light up the road and were not upto the mark. Suddenly I opened the helmet vizor and found the road to be extremely well illuminated, thanks to the fog lamps, and thanks (sarcasm) to the tinted vizor that I was not able to gauge it!

The first break came as soon as I entered Panipath. It started drizzling, but this time I was not afraid of the rains. I was all set for it with a raincoat and luggage beautifully waterproofed in plastic bags. Donned the rain gear upper and started riding and soon the rain was over but the clouds hovered over. Post a couple of more breaks, I was finally at the foot hills of the Himalayas and pulled over by the side of the Himalayan Expressway. Clicked a couple of pictures post which opened the packed breakfast and munched upon the sandwiches. Post a small update it was time to move on as I still had a long way to go.















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The clock struck some 9.30. It was a pretty quick ride uptill now. The weather looked promising and the roads welcoming. Started my journey upwards crossing Jabli, Dharampur, Solan, Shoghi and finally reaching Shimla. Post the GQ ride in November 2010, I had learnt a lesson that an SLR is a way to bulky an instrument to be carried on a ride where its stop-click-go most of the time. Had borrowed a digicam from one of my friends which came real handy while taking pictures. Although there was nothing exclusive and exciting to stop for, still I did manage to click some pictures. Check them out:









Let me now take you to the next level of the ride. I might be exaggerating it a bit much, but that's the way I feel like narrating the Chitkul Chronicles of a Lone Biker. Shimla was, as usual, in chaos. Recent trip to Shimla with wife had left me with a hatred towards the place. Too commercialized to qualify as a hill station, water woes, parking problem and what not. Crossing the city was painful as the locals would just not bother that you need side to pass! Eventually, creeping traffic gave way to more open and wide roads when I asked the way to Narkanda to a person. "Akele ho?", "aram se jana, seedhe chale jao". I was so proud of being a Himachali myself. The warm hospitality and a world away from selfishness truly win hearts!

The Road after Shimla till kufri was previously visited by me. It instigates a s sort feeling that the heart instantaneously ponders over the way ahead. And this moment is rightly lived by the way far flung areas are connected by roads. These roads might be a means of another adventure for bikers like us, but for the locals, these are an integral part of earning their bread and butter. Anyways, I headed towards Theog through Shimla Wildlife Sanctuary, Kufri and Fagu. Aster crossing Fagu, the landscape changed drastically and when I just crossed Theog, I was left speechless, I have been a regular to the state of Himachal Pradesh, but only confined only to the highly commercialized places. But this was completely a different experience for me. I had never seen Himachal lush green and so full of beauty. It seemed that you squeeze a part of land with your palm and green juice would ooze out of it, it was so damn green!








































It was almost 12.45 and I had already crossed Theog. The destination for the day was Dharan Ghati Guest house @ Dharan Ghati a place less explored. The next stop would be at Narkanda, another less frequented hill station brimming with natural beauty and serenity. From here, I would have to take a route up, a detour wherein I would leave the NH22 and would head into the wilderness with no one to come to help in case of a mishap. But as I moved towards Narkanda, the landscape became even more captivating, even more green and the traffic and bustling cities were a thing of past. I finally entered the Narkanda town and soon found my way to Baghi. This was the point which made the ride even more wonderful. Gaurav had stresses upon taking this route which would take me through challenging climbs and tricky descends. also this would take me through "real" Read: real) Himachal...away from the pomp and show of metros where all that a person wants is two meals a day!

...and that was exactly what I witnessed. But before I could take up the road to Baghi, I came across an uphill climb to which I rendered my rubber and soon the board "Rest House" was shoved proudly into the ground. Stopped my bike there and it took me a while to reconquer my lost soul. as soon as I broke from "unconsciousness", I was lost again. The mystified landscape and pure surroundings swept me off my feet. Then and there I decided that I would call it a day and stay here for the night, if I get a room. But unfortunately, the rooms were all full and it being a decision in a haste, I decided to move on instead of searching for a hotel there which should not have been a tedious task. I inquired about the way to Baghi and beyond and was promptly asked to take the way up after some 500m. And that is exactly what I did.

This point brings in another twist in the Chitkul Chronicles of a Lone Biker. Being a fan of plains and arrow straight highways, hills were always frowned upon by me. But after this ride, I have much more respect even for an offroad path as I now know as to what wonders can a broken and scary looking path can do. The climb was steep, a car in front already did a rolling burnout and the smell of the burning rubber shouted a warning, "move ahead at your own risk". the adventurous me took it as a challenge and moved ahead. I would say, that was the best decision taken by me on the road. Had I contibued on to the NH22, it would have been a normal ride for me which would have supported my belief of not riding in the hills.

Words would not do any justice to whatever I saw and experienced. Even the photographs clicked do not speak the whole truth. After all, the human eye is an unmatched lens. Still, I would allow you to look at some pictures.
























Let me also show you a short video which I shot while riding...

MVI 8762 - YouTube

As you see above, the road (or is it?) was really challenging. The climb was steep and the road was really narrow. But the view around was simply majestic. I would let the pictures do the talking from now on and would straight away take you to Dharan Ghati Guest House in the evening.






















































On the way to Dharan Ghati from Tacklech, the road would put me through apple orchids time and again. I simply drooled over them. But time was running out and I was worried if I would be able to make it or not? I could not resist myself at one point in time and stopped by an apple orchid. Took permission from the owner and plucked the apple and took a large bite. mmmmmmmmm....I've never had such a delicious and juicy apple. Had a chat with him for a while and he moved on. Meanwhile, I had finished that apple, plucked one more and gobbled down that too. Check the time and it was only around 4.15. I was nearly at the destination for the day and had enough time on me. Continued riding further until a dog stopped my way. He was barking on me while a couple of others joined them too. I don't know what made them scared/anxious/curious that they behaved this way. I always believed, on the basis of personal experience, that dogs at hilly region are always friendly. I shouted at them and they gave way, also a lady walking nearby helped me escape.

Although the road was in a bad shape, I kept a steady pace. I mean, that was the best part. Slow pace allowed me to enjoy the natural beauty more. This factor also help me build up more trust over the Rocky B. A slight pull of the throttle and no matter how the roads were, the bike climbed. It did become nasty a couple of times due to water and the bike would sway from right to left. I allowed the bike to enjoy and it was not a big deal to cross such patches, many in number.

Its was long since I confirmed the route, and I found a group of children enjoying the humble games, enough to keep them busy. They did not know Dharan Ghati, I asked about Mashnoo, and they knew it. I was on the right track. Just to confirm, I stopped by a gentleman coming from the opposite side and he also confirmed that I'm on the right path. To my utter surprise, to whomsoever I ask about Dharan Ghati Rest House, he shows me a mountain and a faintly visible structure...and "you have to go there" statement. This gentleman also did and said the same. I was, now, a little worried about the sunset and I certainly did not want to ride during the dark. But a statement from the same gentleman boosted my moral when he said "befikr hoke jao, abhi to sooraj dhalne me 2 ghante hain".

Asking my way from a number of people, I finally reached my destination, Dharan Ghati Rest House. And I was glad to find a room there. Covering almost 550km that took some good 14-15 hours through treacherous roads, steep inclines, chasing dogs, breathtaking views and what not! I spotted vulture for the first time in life, exotic bird species, met beautiful people, savored fresh apples...this was a day well ridden! Now it was time to settle down in the Rest House. Unloaded the luggage from the bike and there it was resting on the bed. Freshened up at the nearby Dhaba which would be my dining place for the next two meals.

This place is truly spell binding. What best could I say, when I say that there were only three people here, including the care taker of the rest house, the dhaba owner and I! Tucked away from the world @ 11000ft this place is lush green and it seems Mother Nature has lavished all her charms upon this place. It was truly a blessing to be here. To talk about the rest house...it an old colonial structure built in 1913. It has two rooms and huge huge lawns on both sides. Network is a bit of a problem here. I was loitering around fiddling up with the phone just to catch some network, but failed. Ultimately, I borrowed the phone from Vikku, the dhaba owner and called up home to inform everything was fine and I have reached safely. The caretaker asked me to have dinner at the dhaba itself. He cooked Rajma, chawal and roti. Not very delicious, but yes, the warm hospitality, love and concern added a magical aroma and flavor to it. It was a meal to be cherished forever! I asked him to cook maggie for breakfast tomorrow. That was it for the day. It was time to hit the bed now. I was comforted with quilts and pillow, but I had to wear my sweater, jut to keep the cold off! Tomorrow will the a great day as I visit the Last town in India...Chitkul.

Absolutely breathtaking..

Please do share your map at the end as well. Keep it going.

Your narrative to justice to the pictures.

Day two broke early as the norm always has been. The weather outside looked captivating but frightening at the same time as there was a heavy overcast. But soon the cloud curtain vented open the windows and the sunlight lit the land in patches. Captured some breathtaking morning moments in the camera.















Post these wonderful views, it was time to soak up more and I started rolling up the packing task with soon was done as hardly a couple of things were unpacked. Woke up Vikku and ask him to make 2 maggies for breakfast meanwhile I fasten the luggage on to the bike and get going for the day. And oh boy! I've never had that delicious maggie in my life! Maybe it was because of pure water and vegetables. But Maggie @ 11000ft seemed so damn scrumptious!






It was time for me to move on now. The sky had become clear and the weather looked promising. The plan for the day was to descend to Mashnoo and them climb up to Jeori, where I could fetch some fuel for the bike and make my way to Chitkul via Wangtoo, Tapri and Sangla. "Mashnoo tak rasta kharab hai". This remark from the caretaker and Vikku made me worried as there would be no one to help me. But this is the ultimate truth and I would have to live it. A gust of adrenalin rushed down my veins as I saw the first hairpin bend...all graveled and scary!













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If someone asks me as to what was the best part of the ride...I would say it was this 12km stretch that stole my heart. All I could see was green, green and more green. It was only the thump of the Royal Enfield that looked artificial, save a few fenced meadows. The front break was continuously pressed so as to avoid harsh breaking. I'm not sure how many of you have actually listened to the hum of the front disc breaks. To talk about the Royal Enfield, I haven't seen anything as wonderful as this machine. It would climb up steepest of the heights and glide down through trickiest of the descends without a slight doubt. All this when you have such a lush landscape around. Its just you, your bike and this unscathed world around you. Local seldom come across smiling at you making the moment even more joyous. Breaking into tears had become a norm in there 12 kilometers. I cried up several times looking at the beauty. I was at the most relaxed pace in the entire journey. I just didn't want all this to end.

But I soon was thrown out of this beautiful dream and gradually made my way through the human invasion over the untouched natural beauty. But it was hard to believe that human race in this part of the world is living harmoniously with the nature. Away from the bustle, making up to the basic needs is considered to be a luxury. While I was lost in my thoughts, I came across a humble looking gentleman and stopped by to confirm the way ahead. To the right was his wife who asked in curiosity "beta kahan se? Kab chale, Kidhar jaoge?"...and for the first time in life, I love being swarmed by such questions as they showed a sense of care and amazement.

Soon the offroad path graduated into a concrete road snaking through the beautiful valley. Satluj marked its presence on every other turn and it was a delight to see that. With every successful kilometer, I was heading close to the last village in India towards Tibet, Chitkul. I passed many school going children waving their hands and I waved back. I passed several hair pin bends testing the skills. I passed small hamlets and villages which from a distance lose their identity to green. It seemed like a time travel to me as I felt I was sent back to time where human invasion was little.

But I was soon brought to reality when I saw that low fuel indicator blinking and immediatly was confronted with the truth that the fangs of dependence and necessity have gone deep inside the chain and have done an irreversible damage. It was finally Jeori where I was supposed to tank some gas for the bull. It had been giving me an unexpected mileage of almost 35kmpl. However, the thing totally slipped off from my mind and I kept on marching forward. The low fuel indicator became more aggressive and then I started worrying. But I could not turn back as I was already a good 10km away from the last petrol pump. Confirmed with a lot of people and finally was satisfied to know that I will find one at Tapri, some 25-30 km away from this place. This is how the views were along the past 40 odd km.

























The tank was already pumping few of the last liters of the fuel and mind was buzzing up with thoughts. To add to everything the remark "mujhe to wahan diesel dia hi nahi. Yahan pe bahar k logon ko aasani se dete bhi nahi hain na." came a death blow. I was seriously scared now. moreover, the road coniditions started deteriorating stopping me to pull in even the third cog! I kept my calm and was happy to see the kilometers ticking, in the least. Finally, someone told me that the petrol pump is just nearby and there I could see it! *sigh of relief*. "bhai full karde", "500 se zyada ka nahi milega, humara tanker kahin kharab ho gaya hai, hamare paas bhi kam hai". I asked him to consider this as an exception as Rs.500 fuel would mean only some 6 liters and Chitkul was a good 40 km from this place (and 80km to and fro), keeping any inevitability in mind. He agreed to to top up the tank and I was happy.

The road from this place till Sangla is an okayish kind of a stretch with a mixture of good and bad roads. It did not take me long to reach Sangla and reaching the place, I, at once, decided to stay here only. However, Chitkul was hovering over my mind and it was just 24 odd km from this place. Right when you cross Sangla, a climb up takes to to Chitkul. But wait, I'm not there yet! As soon as I crossed that small town, I was treated with a narrow, trodden road. But the views were awe inspiring. Springs crossing the roads with ankle deep, freezing water, charming houses, abundant greenery and what not! The peaks along the road looked imposing and few sights were jaw dropping. There at the distance stood the "Kinner Kailash" peak, tall and rock solid. Hidden away in the clouds and showing up just then, I felt as if the nature is in a playful mood.



































Thumping all the way, I reached the HPPWD Rest House at around 1ish. I asked if the room was available, and the caretaker replied in affirmative. I thought he would ask me something to show him, or would take me to see the room. But he would busy loading his donkey with gravel to build his house (which I got to know later). Anyways, took the room with a view, there were only two available on the ground floor...the one on the first floor require a permission. Washed my face and the water was bone chilling. I was bound to wear a sweater and a jacket over that...all this in the month of July when Delhi was scorching! To talk about Chitkul, its a world away from world. Tucked just short of some 60km off the Indo-Tibetian border, this is the last town of India ( a difficult fact to digest as there are many more at many other locations. A small village consisting of about some 50 odd houses...thats what Chitkul is. I was hungry now, but there was still some time for lunch. So I decided to trek down some 500m and spend some time in the tranquil vicinity of the Baspa River. Post a refreshing half an hour I headed for lunch. Enjoy the pics


























Although it did not taste good, but the lunch was filling. Now since there was not much to do, I wanted to catch on with some much needed sleep. Slept at around 3 and woke up at 7. I was so surprised to see that it was still not dark! Ventured out into the market to arrange something to go with the drinks Post a couple of drinks, I wanted to talk to my family but again...NO NETWORK! Asked a local, who became a good friend of mine, to help me. But before I could make any call, I had to walk down a good 1km as the network strength was excellent only at that place! The sky grew dark, and it seemed to be a blueberry cake with sugar icing!

There was this flower festival that day and people were dressed traditionally. Everything looked so picture perfect! Post a not so tasty dinner, I was back in the guest house, with all the sweet memories of the last two days. Tomorrow would be the homecoming!

Just one word if it can explain it all: Awsome.

Good show bro , I just need one clarification. When I did my Spiti ride I had taken the NH 22 beyond Narkanda, which now on a hindsight is longer, one can take an alternate road to reach Rampur earlier (coutsey google map). Which route did you take? I can deduce that you have taken a route that takes you towards right of Narkanda on the map, but can you please put in a route taken by you too (preferably on a map).
Thanks, and please complete the log.