Re: Lonely Cloud

Bike home safe! My car has got the jealousy pangs and refused to start. It has raked in repair bills of over 20k already....

Re: Lonely Cloud

Congratulations on completing the trip! Waiting for some awesome pics of the dirang - sela - tawang stretch.

Re: Lonely Cloud

Video on youtube

Re: Lonely Cloud

Marvelous, nothin' less than spectacular! Share if you have more
I am sure these memories will lasts forever...


Kudos for completing.

Re: Lonely Cloud

Stunning pics and videos !! Hats off for completing the solo trip

Re: Lonely Cloud

Thx. It was intimidating initially (2-3days). After that it was business as usual!

I ve got 50gb of HD footage enough for 5hr of watchings. I m hoping to create a much bigger video with good editing and possibly music.

I may also create separate vids for sela pass, paro, n . sikkim etc.

Re: Lonely Cloud

The preparation:

I have been touring for the last 12years or more, so the tour requirements have been tattooed on some part of my brain for sure. Therefore, I set up a checklist of items that are required on the tour. I also had a preparation checklist (tagged to certain deadlines) to ensure that everything go done well in advance. This trip is like no other before, the longest, the toughest and by far the most remote from my home including transporting the bike by train. So, additional items were added and strings pulled as necessary.

Bike: I had to get rid of my CBR250R as quickly and efficiently as possible. The damage was rs30k. I had already set my mind on Hero Impulse - simply for its off-road credentials and efficient engine. The bike with 150cc is down on power for sure, especially someone having ridden a 650cc Suzuki VTwin and a 250cc Honda CBR extensively. The bike makes up for its lack of power with its bicycle-like agility and low-gearing. The fuel range was an issue with only a 11litre petrol tank, but a mental calculation of fuel efficient 150cc meant a theoretical 400km range.

I got a Bajaj Discover, rear splash guard and fitted it onto my Impulse front fork. The simple plastic was given a metal tubing to support the weight. However, this came loose in my Sikkim leg of the trip (that I tightened almost everyday). But, this broke off clean just as I entered Arunachal. A good thing to happen that allowed me to just jump over most bad roads. This also caused my shoes to allow water inside during the last leg of Arunachal ride. Otherwise, there were no issues with the bike. The bike returned almost 43kmpl throughout the trip.


Jackets: Weise Blade2 winter jacket. I have tested this in rain and cold in the UK, so wins as handsdown favorite. Costed me 100GBP in a firesale.

Boots: Spada Waterproofs. Like the jacket, this too has been tested well. It is waterproof in light rain, but allows water in through the top when there are puddles and stagnant water on the road.

Pants: I tried the cramster and rjays pants, but they did not 'fit' me well. They were either too lose or too light. The armour was moving around like a rat! I decided to stick to my thick jeans and knee guards.

Helmet: HJC standard. Nothing fancy and works in all weather. I stuck a Sony Action Camera mount on top of the helmet.

Bags: Cramster Tank bag was a clear favorite. I had mounted a Givi rear box on my impulse. However, I found the volume was far low and too heavy even for basic clothing stuffed inside. Therefore, I took a last minute call and bought a Via Terra Claw. I was after the Claw Mini, but I had gone overboard with luggage and only a Claw non-mini would have suited my requirement. In hindsight, a claw mini is the perfect one for Impulse and one must try and limit the luggage to the mini.

Cameras: Canon 1100D with IS lens from 600D. Sony Action Camera with helmet mount and gorilla pod. I didn't use a suction mount and waterproof casing that I carried in this trip.

No laptop or tablet. I relied on my Samsung S4 Mini (I hate bigger screens). I bought the phone specifically for the trip as Samsung gave me a 5000rs discount coupon. Added Vodafone 2G postpaid and BSNL 3G postpaid connections. I also downloaded Sygic maps which has offline maps and navigation. The maps are accurate but the spellings are a bit off with extra h and y instead of I for some places. I also carried a low cost Samsung 2g button cellphone that I had in my house. I had the Vodafone 2g sim in this phone throughout the trip. In hindsight, I should have got Vodafone 3G and BSNL 2G sim.

BSNL works everywhere including remote Arunachal locations. Vodafone is good only in big towns of Sikkim, Assam and Meghalaya. Vodafone has no signal in Arunachal.

I got a tashi cell pre-paid sim in Bhutan. I bought this in Tashi building in Phunshotling, who activated the sim in 5min. Otherwise, it takes upto 1 day to activate the sim.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Kolkata:

I had to spend 2 full days in Kolkata waiting for my bike to arrive by Howrah Mail. I luckily got accommodation in a Central Govt hostel costing Rs30/day in a high-rise in a fine neighbourhood - Ballygunge. There were no other hosteliers, so a 1BHK was all mine for 2 days at Rs60. I treated myself to some Bengali sweets, fine tea, local sightseeing and some 'consolation gifts' to my wife and family. I sent the gifts by post, so I don't have to carry bulky gifts along with me. I started liking Kolkata - the people seemed to work harder (than those in Chennai) and charged me very nominal prices - despite not knowing the languages Bengali and Hindi. Infact, I never faced any language issues anywhere in the trip or I should say that I picked up basic hindi on the road.






Howrah:
I had to identify the bike (offloaded by 3am) at 10am in Howrah Station. Regulars will know that Howrah has 27 platforms - I know because I walked every bit of platform for 3hrs. Thank god, Howrah doesn't have the longest platform in the world. That distinction goes to Kharagpur-WB that I passed through a couple of days earlier.

I identified the bike tail light sitting in the far corner of a godown tucked away in a corner. I heaved a sigh of relief only after I was sure that my bike is in good shape (the front brake lever was broken - I had a spare one! in my bag). I learnt that the north bound luggage/parcels were kept in 'Assam Godown' - spelt as Assam Go-Done in the board. This is in between platform 15 and 16! I bet even regulars wont find this place. I was lucky to have a translator who did translate English > Hindi > Bengali > Hindi > English. I didn't hire anyone but there were always volunteers even inside godowns. Further, W.Bengal has very good English speakers owing to good education.

An old man, the head coolie of Assam Godown stuck a deal with me 100Rs to load the bike in Shatabdi Express. (In Chennai, this price is Rs1000). I had a heart in my mouth time as every conceivable piece of parcel made its way onto the same train - loads of fish baskets, fruits, flowers, large iron boxes and plenty of eggs! My bike was last in the queue and barely made inside the luggage van. The door was locked and sealed at 1:14pm - the train departs at 1:15pm. I had a comfortable 1st class seat ( remember, I was on vacation - so spared no expense) right in the next coach and kept an eye on the luggage van as it bounced up, down, left and right - throughout the day's journey.

I was damn tired physically after 3hrs in Howrah Station. But, with me and my bike headed towards Siliguri NJP Stn - I was ecstatic as the disruption to my travel due to Indian Railways was limited only to 48hours! I was humming a tune as I listened to some favorite tracks, looking at stunning w.bengal farms and nodding to other passengers' curious looks - I was rolling!

Re: Lonely Cloud

Bhutan Permits:

I travelled alone and on a motorbike. (I intentionally down played that I ride a motorbike to keep things simple with the immigration staff).

12:30pm: I had to first fill a form (easy one) , attach my ID proof (voter id / passport) and submit in counter 7 (on first floor). But it was already lunch time (1-2pm), so I decided to find a hotel for a room and then lunch and come back by 2pm.

2:00pm: The counter 7 officer looked at me 'travelling alone?, we cannot permit you to enter Bhutan'. I pleaded like a school-kid who has not done his homework. The officer who is now more softened asked me to get permission from a lady officer. I could not find the so-called lady. So, I had to settle between an Asst Immigration Officer and Dep. Director. The DD's room had a lot of people, so I decided to go to AIO. In the meantime, I wrote a letter to the Immi Officer explaining my trip and blah blah! Bhutanese love letters instead of application forms - my discovery in this trip.

2:30pm: The officer first refused my application saying that I may migrate to Bhutan. I tried telling him that I was on vacation , so I wont work even if he offered me a job! These fundoo arguments wont work in Bhutan - especially spoken with a contempt. I followed the officer to his other meetings and hung around basically making myself seen by everyone. This officer too wanted to shake me off his tail, but could not. I did not come across the country to be easily seen off.

2:45pm: The officer was very persistent on me migrating to Bhutan. I showed him my passport and told him that I worked in developed high-paying countries and showed him my work visas and tourist visas from USA, UK, Fr, Can, Asian countries. I argued that I have no reason to emigrate as I could go to work anywhere in the developed world, why bhutan! Finally, this seemed to have gotten him. That was a googly. He signed the letter immediately.

remember, all through I played the single tourist as opposed to single biker.

3:00pm: The counter 7 officer processes my application, takes mug shot and finger prints and issues me a 'route permit'. No cost so far.

3:30pm: I hurried to the RSTA office (about 0.5km away) to realize that it is closed for the day. Their work hours 9am-12noon and 2-3pm.

RSTA: Vehicle permit (150cc bike = 50Rs).

There is no application form, just an old fashioned letter as a covering doc for your RC paper, license, insurance and pollution cert.

9am: The RSTA -Deputy Director first approves your letter. Then someone in the permit office issues a 'papers checked' seal, then you pay Rs50 at the Accounts window, then your vehicle permit is written in a piece of paper. You need to provide a Xerox of this permit back to the RSTA office to get the permit originals.

10am: I got a Tashi cell pre-paid sim card in Tashi building. This is a direct company office , so they activated my sim immediately. Other places take upto 1 day to activate the sim.

Hotels in Bhutan:

Phunshotling : Hotel Druk. 3 star or so, costed me 3600Rs/night. This is right behind the immigration office so I took it. The other nicer hotels are a bit away. Orchid Hotel (250meters towards Thimpu) also looked good. It is better to stay on Indian side - Jaigaon. Hotel Anand is good - only 600rs / night. This has underground covered parking! I stayed here on my way back

Paro: Hotel Paro. A nominal priced hotel with good restaurant. 1200rs/night.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Motorcycle permits for going beyond (north of ) Mangan is required. This is only provided by Home Department in Manan Bhavan - the new secretariat office in Development Area Road near MG Road. Office timings 9:30 - 3pm.

All bike papers are required (license, RC, insurance, pollution cert) x2 copies along with 3 photographs.

You need to go to confidential records division in the ground floor (tucked in the far end of the building near a staircase). You will meet other bikers here too.

A pretty lady (with good taste in shoes) is responsible for processing your 'Expedition Permit for motorcycle'. She will provide you an application - you need to list all the places for permit here. She has to write a few letters to her senior staff, get their approvals and provide you with 5 enveloped letters. one letter is your copy, 1 letter for 3rd mile checkpost (they issue the actual permits based on this letter), 3 more letters for checkposts on the way. This lady works hard and meets all the bikers, so is very polite to us. She works hard, so thank her! after all other bikers too benefit.

you need to go to '3rd mile checkpost' (take a taxi/bike, you cannot walk all the way there), show the letter and get your permits. Costs some 100rs or so - cant remember. Check all the locations are added in the little paper with a rubber stamp and sign.

You are good to go anywhere your permit allows you.

Re: Lonely Cloud

Thank you for the detailed description how to get permit to Bhutan. Everything is clear now

Re: Lonely Cloud

The actual motorcycle trip started from Siliguri towards Gangtok. This was my first experience in the Himalayas though I ve ridden a lot in Western Ghats know mountain riding! I got used to the roads and adjusted my riding style to my fully-loaded and full-tanked motorcycle. Though the distance to gangtok is only 130kms, the first few days are usually very sane in terms of adventure levels – this one is no different.



Initially, the roads pass through Sevoke Forests with plenty of army presence. Further on, the roads got very dusty as there was widening and road-laying going on in several places. The traffic was very minimal compared to other tourist towns; however there are plenty of Tata Sumos and Mahindra Boleros spewing out their carcinogen-laden diesel exhaust. After all, the whole of Sikkim does not have railways, waterways or even airways, so everything from gold jewelry to toiler paper has to make their way by roads.

The local drivers in mountains are actually much better in terms of driving etiquette such as following lane discipline and usage of turn signals- they even honked much less than their brethren from plains. I was thinking about it and pulled close to a vehicle with no tail lights. I realized this a wee bit late and had to jump on my brakes. I was not exactly travelling light and the bike’s dynamics are not the usual – all this led to only one thing. My bike went into a tank slapper, fish tailed a bit and was kissing the sweet ground very soon. Luckily, I was able to regain balance but could not hold onto my bike and dropped it softly at the end. A few scratches on the crash bar (aptly named) and a little bit of petrol down the overflow tube. There I was on a long ride and within 30km from the start dropped the bike! I was staring at the bike when a passerby and a couple of police personnel helped me lift the bike and start it.

As always, I soon regained my composure and started riding towards Gangtok. I soon shook off the bike-drop incident from my mind and decided to pull over the bike in a safe spot, inspect any hidden damage, tighten the luggage mounts and hydrate myself. I noticed that a lose luggage tie-down may have exacerbated the out-of-control bike. There were plenty of overloaded Sumos and Boleros for company with several people sitting on the roofs of the cars – sort of desi-double decker cars. I decided to ride slowly to adapt to my new environment and to make it safely to Gangtok where I can reassess whether my luggage can be lightened a bit. It was very embarrassing to be overtaken by full-loaded buses going uphill, but this trip cannot be risked over such silly things. The sunny weather and dusty road made me tired very soon and I had to find a lunch break soon.







The next day, I had to do a lot of paperwork to process my motorcycle expedition permits from Home Dept. I was not looking forward to the boring day as I hate paperwork! However, I was in for a surprise as the Home dept is also the focal point of all bikers heading North of Gangtok – everyone needs those damn permits. I met a couple of bikers from Kolkata and started a chat that ran to two hours – the total time it took for me to process the permits. Unable to say goodbye, we headed to Gangtok Ropeway – a cable car system that offered an aerial view of the town and surrounding mountains.






The next morning I started for North Sikkim through Mangan and Lachen. The roads initially were terrible I thought, without realizing what was in store for me later in the day. However, there were some fine narrow roads with good scenery and water crossings. By water crossings I had to ride through gushing rivulets and streams without any bridges. The population too thins down drastically once north of Gangtok for there is nothing but high mountains and Tibet. The last petrol pump is in Mangan and naturally the roads too end abruptly after Mangan. I was welcomed by a big ‘sinking’ mud pit to begin with (anyone seen it in Indiana Jones?), followed by a 35+degree steep climb where falling meant a tumble down a deep gorge on the left. I was sweating profusely in cold weather and even thought of calling it quits within a 2km ride beyond this with about 35km to go for the day. It was a strange feeling made worse by cold weather, low oxygen and fear of the unknown. I rode on further hoping that the roads would get better. However, I got a feeling that someone with expertise in torture techniques and schadenfreude (pleasure derived by someone from another person's misfortune) had laid that road for me. No offence to BRO, the Border Roads Organization has complete control over these roads and we have to salute them for their supreme effort in maintaining these roads in difficult terrain and all weather conditions.




Over 5hours and 35kms of torture chamber later(that’s 7kmph average), I pulled into a small village with a lone roadside hotel for the night. The road ahead was closed by the army for the day. The guard let me ride on, however, I was dirty beyond recognition and cold, so decided to call it a day. Everywhere I went on my bike, I noticed that other people were taking my photograph as one would take of a wild animal, and not that of a celebrity. I was the lone resident in the hotel and had to order my dinner in advance. I walked around the little village, tried the snacks in the local shops, climbed several steep steps to a Siva temple and called it a day.





The next morning, I headed towards Lachen still nervous about the bad roads. However, the morning scenery was a stunner. The early light illuminated the snow covered peaks and it was a sight not to miss. I was mesmerized by the mountains and rode in the direction of Kanchenjunga National Park. Yes, I could finally see the highest points in India lining up one beside the other and I could not believe my own eyes. I felt really miniscule and negligible in comparison the mighty mountains that stood right before me. I don’t remember much else and did not even eat anything until late lunch for I was taking in the sights and smells of mighty Himalayas.






Time was running out, so despite not riding to the end of the region where my permit allows me to, I turned back to Gangtok. I was there on vacation and not on some record-setting spree and I got several more places to go in the trip. Actually, every bit of bad road I rode Northbound, I needed to ride back to Gangtok which was something playing on my mind. Magically, the ride back was much easier, maybe I got a bit wiser or maybe I cared less. I took advantage of this new found confidence and stopped in almost all villages to chat with locals – interestingly, the school kids were always the first to break the ice with me. The kids would usually start a conversation over my motorbike and where I was from – sometimes the conversing group would be as many as a dozen people of all age groups. I didn’t ride up all the way just for pretty scenery for it is these people who truly made my ride to North Sikkim on torturous roads a worthwhile proposition.




On the road back to Gangtok, I met a biker and school teacher named Dipen. We both chatted sitting on the roadside grass and were soon joined by his friends –all on Royal Enfield Classic 500s. They offered to escort me back to Gangtok and I was elated by their offer. I felt on top of the world riding in a convoy of Royal Enfields with their thundering exhaust notes that reverberated in the high mountains that even the army check post guys waved us through. Dipen was kind enough to invite me to his home and I obliged as we chatted about biking and future rides late into the night. How many strangers invite other people to their home if not for a shared passion – such as biking?

quote from a biker: Strangers on the road are friends who you have not yet met...

Re: Lonely Cloud

nicely done [MENTION=18852]pitbull[/MENTION]
and nice to see the brotherhood leaving its marks on you.

Re: Lonely Cloud

The Sikkim leg of the trip was a rollercoaster, to keep the tempo going I decided not to rest in Gangtok and head to Bhutan border 250km away. In this trip, I ve picked up a bad habit of starting late, especially with a long way to go to the destination- May be I was truly enjoying my holiday. I started from Gangtok after a sumptuous South Indian breakfast of dosas and vadas – the cook decided to give me a send off gift thinking I might be missing my usual fare. Something I noticed in this motorcycle trip was that common people went out of their way to help me and please me. I bid them all my goodbyes and started towards Phuenshotling – the border town on India-Bhutan border where I have to process my permits to enter and ride in Bhutan.

The route out of Gangtok was familiar to me as only a few days earlier, I had ridden it to reach Gangtok. This time, after my North Sikkim experience, the bad roads seemed not so bad at all as I glided past slow moving vehicles. I met a Belgian couple on a 5month adventure ride on their KTM 990adv bike. They had entered India through Burma and were on their way to Nepal. We exchanged some bike trip stories as always and I headed east to Bhutan while the couple rode west to Nepal. We were random strangers; however our love for travel and biking brought us together.

Come April, the sun was making its presence felt and the dust in the air was not helping either. It was hard to believe that only a day earlier I was shivering in cold climate. I had to stop more often to keep myself hydrated and changed over to summer clothes. I was not rushing to the destination, instead was riding slowly and enjoying the mountain views – it was my way of saying “good-bye and I am going to miss you so much!” After all, I was about to exit Sikkim and I don’t know when or if I will come back to Sikkim at all.




I decided to wet my feet in the Teesta river that flows throughout the length of the state and is a valuable water and hydro-power resource for Sikkim. I saw a dirt road going to the river and followed it. The road was steep and muddy, so I had to carefully ride downhill to reach the water’s edge. The sound of the swift flowing water was an aural treat. I pushed the bike into the flowing water and gave it a nice scrub and wash in the pure mountain water that sparkled better than any expensive mineral water sold in bottles. I relaxed a bit chatting with a truck driver by the water’s edge and headed to the next town of Melee to have some lunch and lassi.



A late start to the day and a bit of slow and casual riding meant that I was behind my schedule by at least a couple of hours – I am sure you know what this means. I have to rush through the remaining distance with the intention of making it to the destination. It was almost 2pm and I had nearly 150kms to cover by night fall. The mountainous road, though very scenic and exciting to ride for the thrill, makes progress very slow due to its narrow width and lack of visibility. The closer I got to W.Bengal border; the drivers too started getting more crazy and unpredictable. All this meant, I had to drop the anchor (brakes) in several panic situations. At least, the roads were freshly laid in several areas due to the upcoming elections that spared me some agony. I finally made it to the Coronation Bridge that lies on the border between W.Bengal and Sikkim. The bridge itself seemed to be a landmark of sorts with vendors selling fruits, cucumbers and tender coconut. I could see forests and small towns beyond this place, so I decided to help myself with some cucumber.

I crossed the bike and rode towards Jaigaon W.Bengal, the last town on the Indian side of the border – but it was still 100kms away. The narrow but smooth highway that leads to Jaigaon snakes past tea plantations, small towns and runs along a railway line. So, the progress was much slower as there were people and cattle on the road. The good part was the plenty of small shops that lined the road, so a quick tea or snack was never far off. But with distance to go and fading light meant, I had to rush through – sometimes on full-throttle. My bike, being an off-roader, was not exactly flying on the roads despite my best intention. Even then, I could not help myself from stopping for a cuppa tea and chat with the friendly locals in Bengali. After all who cares for a schedule when they are on vacation – right? Wrong, there are no hotels to stay in these small towns, so I better find myself on road to Jaigaon. The sign boards were counting down the distance to my destination from 50, 45, 40kms and it was almost 6pm and the sun had disappeared beneath the horizon. I was getting a bit worried and caught a glance of a forest dept. Maruti Gypsy ready for a jungle safari. I also read a sign board for a National Park and I quickly put them together in my mind! I turned around and decided to check out a forest guest house for accommodation, but the roads lead me deep into the forests on an off-road track and past two rickety old bridges. It turned out to be a luxurious resort run by W.Bengal Govt and I found a comfortable but expensive suite. Luckily, I could book an elephant safari from the hotel without having to go anywhere. The view from my room was all dark and the noise of the jungle in the evening was really creepy. I even rode my bike in the nearby muddy roads and came back frightened for it was pitch black when I turned off my lights and I almost lost my way. Later, I was told that wild elephants frequented the area and people are not allowed after sunset outside the compound – oops!






Riding alone has its benefits, it is easy to strike conversations with random people on the roads and ask for favours without any reservations. I didn’t want to ride alone on elephant back in the jungle and decided to ask around for empty seats in other safari groups – I luckily came across a group of college lecturers from Kolkata on vacation. They were kind enough to include me in their group and also gave me a lift in their Tata Sumo to areas where motorcycles are not allowed deep inside jungles. We all entered the forest check post early in the morning and waited for our elephant ride. The elephants were sturdy built! and had plenty of torque to carry six people on its back and navigate the difficult jungle terrain. Perhaps, Tata Motors could develop their next car based on this (Tata Jumbo!). It was especially scary when going downhill as the elephant takes its time to find good footing and once done it just lunges down an incline, but I got used to it.










The elephant handler was also a tribal and knew the jungle routes very well. We were able to spot rhinoceros, several wild buffalo and finally a magnificent and gigantic python. It was my first time in the wild seeing a Rhino in all its grandeur. It seemed like a hardy animal with tremendous personality for it was not afraid of even the elephants. Of course, the rhinos were also thick-skinned, but carried their weight very well and ran quickly for their small legs. The tall grass potentially hid several other creatures, for all we could hear were the sounds. As always, everyone was keen on catching at least a glimpse of a tiger. It was getting hotter in the day with animals far and few, so I decided to bid goodbye to our elephant and Kolkata friends and headed back to my room. It was destination next to Bhutan! I was excited to cross an international border on my motorcycle.




Bhutan-‘wiki’
To those uninitiated, Bhutan is a land-locked country between India and China. There are no railways and only one airport; therefore roads are the lifeblood of Bhutanese. The roads are laid by Indian Army and the Bhutanese currency (Ngultrum) is 1:1 with Indian Rupee. Of course, Indian Rupee is accepted everywhere but not 500 and 1000rupee denomination to root out fake currencies (and black-money?). The people are traditional and most of them wear their traditional dress every day. In fact, several Govt. buildings stress on the importance of wearing ‘formals’ even for tourists. Foreigners are required to pay $250 per day per person to visit Bhutan as a tourist, so only the determined or rich foreigners visit Bhutan. Don’t worry, Indians are exempt from this rule and just need to obtain a ‘route permit’ for entering Bhutan by road.




I rode coolly through Jaigaon, filled my petrol tank and rode past the border gate into Phuenshotling. I was officially in Bhutan and headed to the immigration office. It was lunch time, so I decided to take a hotel and come back for my permit. I won’t be able to ride deeper into Bhutan without a permit and it seemed like I would have to spend the night in Phunshotling and start early to Paro or Thimpu the next morning. I noticed that the Bhutanese were all wearing their traditional national dress. Initially it seemed funny, especially the men with skirt-like (similar to Scottish kilt) gowns and hairy legs. But, the commitment and friendly nature of the common folk won me over. I had to get that dress from me and my wife. I got my permit by 3pm, headed into town for some shopping for Bhutanese national dress. I found a traditional tailor and bought a set for my wife. I walked to the Indian side of the border and sent the dress home by parcel to avoid the customs if posted in Bhutan. I walked the town for snacks, had a great tea from a road side shop and came back to my hotel. I unwinded by soaking in a hot tub and reading a book.



The next morning was a relaxed start after finishing a heavy ‘complimentary’ breakfast at the most expensive hotel of my trip. The roads were super smooth yet steep as they climbed the Himalayas. The temperature dropped at a fast pace and it was chilly within 20kms. I showed my permit at a checkpost and noticed that the altitude was 1500m ASL. I donned my jacket and changed to leather gloves as it got misty with poor visibility. Bhutan is very sparsely populated with no human habitation in between towns. The scenery of high mountains, fresh water streams and lack of pollution all contributed to a serene setting. However, the lack of people and shops worried me a little bit as I was an alien in an unknown country with no company. Luckily, I got a Bhutanese pre-paid SIM that worked near towns and my ICICI debit card drew cash in ATMs. The roads were broad and well-marked at least until the half-way point, after that a new road is being laid and fully-closed for all traffic. So, I was diverted onto the old road – a narrow and twisty piece of tarmac. Initially, I thought the old road diversion should not be for more than 5-10km, but it continued for at least 50km. This old road was built deep inside mountain areas that sun light was not filtering through the tall trees. So, despite a sunny day, it was hard to spot oncoming vehicles and small rocks on the road. The road was too twisty and narrow for big cars, so bigger vehicles were not giving me enough room and pushing me off the road onto the mud. The Bhutanese drivers were much disciplined (unlike our own junta) however it was difficult to identify Indian drivers and take evasive action. I ran too close to a few trucks on occasion that gave me the jitters as adrenalin shot through my body. I pulled over and decided to ride easy despite the odd rogue drivers. This episode aside, this road can be termed as one of the best riding roads in the world! The twists and turns, the sudden altitude drops, the umpteen waterfalls along the route, the bird calls and insect noises and simply a perfect piece of black tarmac all contribute to this sensational stretch.



I finally caught the new road after 50kms of deviation and started to terribly miss the old charming road. With such good road ahead, I was in good standing to reach Paro town before sun down and search for a hotel. The unspoilt mountains towered highly near the roads and showed the way to the two major towns in Bhutan – Thimpu, the capital and Paro, the cultural centre of Bhutan. I reached a fork on the road, left led to Paro and right led to Thimpu. I have seen enough capitals with govt buildings, so after a bit of time I decided to head to Paro and explore the forts and monasteries.












As I approached Paro town, I noticed that the landscape was barren, brown and a sprinkling of white-walled houses at a distance. The places were all spotlessly clean and had the air of a developed country (in comparison to India). I rode slowly on smooth winding roads devoid of any traffic while admiring the little town’s traditional architecture be it homes, schools, hotels or post offices. All these buildings together had a sense of belonging and oneness that is missing from other materialistic societies. May be Bhutan is one of the last bastions of tradition and culture relatively untouched by commercial exploits. Don’t get me wrong, Bhutan is a very rich country and most people are well-off financially and drive SUVs and luxury marquee cars. The shops and hotels charge prices that are higher than any Indian city e.g., a cup of tea in a good hotel costs Rs120! Keeping this in mind, I found a little hotel tucked away near the town centre. I dumped my bags and hit the town centre for some handicrafts and souvenir shopping. Infact, in Paro town centre I learned about some Buddhist ideologies and came up with the title for this travelogue – the concept of some things in life being endless. I had a traditional Bhutanese dinner and realized that the weather was getting very cold and was stated to hit zero degrees that night. My room did not have a heater and I went to bed dressed in thermals and used double blankets.



The next morning, I woke up early and got on my bike at first rays of sunlight to the famous Taktsang monastery. I rode for about 5kms and realized to my horror that my hands were freezing and my teeth clattering for want of warmth. I checked my watch and the temperature read 2 degrees even in sunshine! As I didn’t want to freeze to death, I rushed back to my hotel. I decided to wait it out and let the sun do its magic for about 30min. Only after the temps rose above 7 degrees, I made my way towards the foothills of Taktsang monastery. The ride was only 15kms, but there is a good 3hr climb uphill to the monastery. Apparently, the early monastery builders couldn’t see the barren land available in plenty throughout the country and had to build the place 3000m high up in the mountain cliffs earning a nick name that sends a shiver down the spine – Tiger’s Nest!



In my quest to shrink space and time, I hired a horse to cover a quarter of the hike. The initial bit was not very steep and the horse could comfortably climb carrying me. However, on some steep sections I noticed that the horse was breathing full on, with its lungs working to full capacity. I was nervously hanging onto the horse like a rodeo as it walked right alongside the cliff’s edge. I was seriously worried that the horse might flick me onto the deep gorges on the side of the trail. In hindsight, the horse ride helped me cover the initial bit and conserved my energy and water reserves. I spent the next 3 hours slowly climbing up the hill towards the monastery which appeared like a small house from a distance only to grow in size and magnificence with every step. I was breathing to my full lung capacity, just like that horse, as I slowly found grip in slippery rocky trail cut into mountain’s edge. The weather being cold only helped me without having to stop for water or wiping off sweat.





I finally made it to the very top and learned a lesson or two from the Buddhist builders who created this place so high up in the mountain precipice. I could not believe that someone from hundreds of years ago had the vision and determination to create such a spectacular monument in such a challenging environment. I walked into the monastery and offered my prayers to the gigantic Buddha. Finally, I relaxed in the corner of the monastery which overhangs from the mountain edge with nothing beneath but a vertical 6000ft drop. I outstretched my hands high up in the wind and felt really like flying – I was on top of the world.
The climb down was equally difficult as grip and footing was hard especially with gravity working in my favour. I passed plenty of people on their way up and chatted with a few whenever I stopped. I came across a novelist who was researching for his science fiction novel and shared a few snippets with me. I exchanged stories with a global traveler who quit his job and was just roaming the world for about 6months all alone. I also met a couple of bikers from Bihar who identified me based on my jacket that I am a biker. These people were random strangers, but as some biker once said, “On the road, strangers are actually friends whom you have not yet met”.

I made my way to the hotel by 12noon and had the first meal of the day. I had plans to ride to Thimpu, the capital to get further permits to ride in East Bhutan. However, after the enlightenment that I received at the monastery, I decided that my purpose in Bhutan has been met. So, I checked out of the hotel and headed back to India. I had about 160kms to cover before nightfall and it was already nearing 2pm, so I had to do some brisk riding to ensure that I don’t have to ride in the dark after sunset. Even though I had not ridden much that day, I forgot that the 5 hour trek in the mountains would make me very tired. I covered the initial stretch without many stops, but the narrow winding roads on diversion were the most difficult bit. But, based on past experience, I rode in a focused manner like a supermoto rider stretching my legs on every turn. I hardly stopped even for water until I neared the Indian border. I had tea and hot jalebis at an army cafeteria. An Indian family too was there and they enquired about my trip. We discussed about Bhutan towns and their visible cultural aspects. I followed the Indian family’s Toyota Innova as it was getting dark. I relied on the car’s powerful headlights and followed the car around the several bends in the roads which are difficult to judge in the dark. I finally made it to the border town of Jaigaon in West Bengal and thanked the family for guiding me in the last stages of my ride. The family even recommended me an inexpensive hotel with good parking for my bike. The day was physically exhausting as I climbed 3000m on a 5hr trek, followed by a 5hr non-stop bike ride covering 165kms all with minimum food and water. I wrapped the second leg of my trip successfully with the last and hardest part still to come – Assam and Arunachal Pradesh.