Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Travelogue approved.

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Wow. Helmets off!!
Sandakphu on 2 wheels...can't wait for the full log!!

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

This place is looking beautiful...

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Waiting for the rest of the log.

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Thanks Sunil
Will be up soon...

Sure

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Day 2 :
Sukhi Pokiri -> Maney Bhanjan -> Chitre -> Toling/Tumling -> Gauri Basa

An improptu pond above Chitre formed by incessant rains for the past few days ...


The roads initially were ok ...


Then the roads started turning hostile and the inclinations started increasing ...


Reached Toling or tumling . Here we need to register ourselves and vehicles . Would you believe that the right side is India and the left is Nepal so the road is actually the border ...




Another pond ...


Suddenly I see myself surrounded by clouds and then rain started @ 3pm


With rains, darkness started fast approaching + boulder roads began slipping + ever increasing inclination + me alone


And just after this turn I saw a Wild Bengal Cat most probably a Felis Bengalensis staring at me just about the size of a big dog.
But enough to shook me at those hostile conditions ,but me stopping there (by sheer reflexes) actually scared him off and it went back in the jungle.

After this I stopped at Gauri Basa where it was still raining and it was almost becoming dark @4 pm. So I thought of calling off a day and settled in a home-stay there. More on it next ...

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Subscribed and glued.
Solo in those conditions is legendary stuff.. .
Next part please.. .

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Thanks Shashank ...

I would have not done solo if I knew the situation was this bad . More to it in my next post - Actually I cant upload pictures from office is the problem ...

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

3rd Day :
Gauri Basa -> Vickey Bhanjan (bike)
Vikey Bhanjan -> Sandakphu 3kms (trekking)

I stayed at Gauri Basa and thought of going to Sandakphu and come back the same day.
You will probably laugh at me if I say I was doing 5-10km per hour - some pictures below may probably answer this.
I had my first fall today while negotiating a 45 degree + elevation, a momentary loss of concentration. But my helmet and gears took it all.

I started the morning meeting a Red-panda activist who were deployed by the Nepalese Govt. to search for Red Panda which are almost an extinct species now. They were a group of 8 people and were searching for the last 5 days in various parts of the Singalila forest.


This place is called Kala-Pokhiri (Black Pond in Nepali) - Apparently the water looks black but is actually transparent when put in a glass . Drinking or littering near this pond is prohibited as its considered holy .


These were in-fact better roads with less loose boulders and less inclinations. Another view of Kala Pokhiri ...


Kala Pokhiri is worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists alike.


She is an octogenarian but smiled like a kid when I spoke to her and asked for her photo.



You can gauge the inclinations now and the condition of the road.


And this is how the road looked from the top.


I trekked the last 3 kms before Sandakphu from Vickey Bhanjan . I parked my bike there and trekked along with a Japanese contingent who were all 60+ along with a trekker Mr. Thapa and a translator Mr. Paul since they didn't know English. I spoke to them in sign language and thanked Mr. Thapa for my first ever trekking lesson @12,000+ feet


And this was all I could see in Sandakphu, it was fully clouded and my bad-luck that I could neither see Kanchenjunga or Mt. Everest or Nanga parbat or Lhasa.
And so I promised myself that I will be back again


The only vehicles which ply there are yester-year Landrovers with Bolero engines but stock chasis, differentials and lockers.


Now these were the roads...



This chap wanted his photo and was adamant about it.


His sister ( Me too ... )


I met these English trekkers while coming down and they had lot of questions for me (Solo on Motorcycle).


This place prepares the best Black Tea in Sandakphu - they have a trekkers hut and home-stay (pretty basic but good hospitality) so if anyone is interetsed can call them up and inquire.


I came back disappointed to my homestay @ Gauri Basa but was happy to make it to Sandakphu solo and learnt trekking and that I met so many new people.

Next some pointers for people looking to visit Sandakphu ...

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Some attachments from the last post are not visible. But those which are, are very beautiful.

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

4th & 5th Day:
Gauri Basa -> Sukhi Pokhiri -> Ghoom -> Kurseong -> Pankhabari -> Matigara -> Shibmandir ->Islampur -> Kishangunj -> Purnea -> Bhagalpur -> Dumka -> Ghausia -> Asansol -> Durgapur -> Kolkata (Dum Dum Park)

This was from the place I stayed for 2 days in Gauri Basa. Technically I stayed in Nepal and the barrack you see is Indian BSF - there is no Nepalese military here


I stayed in this lodge - you can see the Mother - Daughter duo who take care of this place . Highly recommended for their warm hospitality and good home cooked food. They never said 'no' for anything. Very Basic amenities like solar electricity, wood charcoal kitchen but the bed was clean and warm. My total expenditure for staying and non-veg food for 2 days was around 800.


These pets were a good pass time specially the younger one. It will fight with everyone from cats to hens, you can see him fighting with thrice its size


First glimpse of Kanchenjunga while coming down, it had rained the entire night yesterday but the morning was clear. I cursed my luck since I got a totally different climate yesterday.


You can see Mt. Everest at the extreme left with the clouds clearing ...


Some more ...


My failed attempt at DSLR selfie


Entrance to Singalila Park ...


Birds ...


Animals, I guess I met one of them


My way back ...


Kanchanjunga -One last time



Selfie of a different kind ...


The bike wanted it with Kanchenjunga in the background ...


Immediately after this I had my second fall the roads were sloshed because of yesterday rains (you can see my rear tires are fully rounded and I fell because of engine braking)


I went up through Mirik -> Pasupati but came down through Ghoom -> Kurseong -> Pankhabari Route .
This is Ghoom (highest railway station in India)


Kurseong in the background (Mere saapno ki Rani was shot here ...)


Kurseong TV tower which is visible even from Siliguri, Jalpaiguri ...


Pankhabari Tea estate ...


Shibmadir & Siliguri are the places where I was brought up but had no time to meet anyone since my tickets were already booked ...


My father served this branch for 3 years ...

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

I corrected the photos now - Are these visible now.

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Some stats :
Petrol : 600* 4 = 2400 Approx
Stay : 1000 + 175*2 = 1350 exact
Food : 40 + 125 + 200 + 450 + 125 + 40 + 50 + Tea/Biscuits/Water ... = 1200 Approx
Bike repairs : 50 small petrol pipe leakage, clutch adjustment, and horn switch acting funny


Scariest moments :
1) I stopped near Ranaghat to check some petrol smell coming from the bike at around 1 am and suddenly see a group of people from a Sumo running towards me with their torches lit on my face.
Every one was questioning who I was to which a frightened me questioned them back . Then I realized they were actually police , some regular questions and off they went.

2) While returning back I was not able to get my way through Dumka to Asansol via Gausiya and it was already very late in the night .
My survival instincts got the better of me and I waited for a truck to guide and luckily got one - thanks to the truck driver.
But he didn't have a good time since he was stopped by tribals and police at-least 5-6 times.
I was damn scared but none asked me anything because I was fully geared with army pants and boots

3) Last but not the least - the Jungle Cat at the Singalila forest still makes me shiver.


Advice : Never ever take the Krishnanagar -> Ranaghat road even in broad daylight . I saw a bus with a broken axle and a truck toppled on that road.

Memories : priceless

Re: Solo to Sandakphu (well almost)

Yes they are!
Thanks a lot!