Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Travelogue Approved

Please unveil now! Five days without luggage!

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

I am glued...waiting for more....

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Bring on the full story.

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Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

So is it HK to Meghalaya??... 'definitely need to know more!
Kindly bless the thread with the rest.

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Life in Hong Kong is different. I wanted it to be different, once I could not handle the same in Mumbai anymore. So I should have been happy, but I can't say I was perfectly happy. Yes, life was easier, no more travel in those stuffy trains, work is good, money is there, still something missing. For sometime I thought it was my old R15 that I left in India, and one fine day I got a much bigger machine in my name, the Kawasaki Z800.




It was a dream come true, indeed. I ride with fellow riders in and around streets of Hong Kong,some times they are quite relaxing and satisfying, while giving the adrenaline rush very often.

Still, something was missing. Yes I loved to race in times, but I was racing anyway throughout the fast pace of the city. I needed to slow down, I needed to breathe. I wanted to feel being part of the nature we are born in. Personal life also didn't go well, and it pushed more for desiring a gate away, a time with my self alone, to reflect, to search who I am. More I thought about it, more I realized that the best way to do so is to ride, alone. This had to happen in my country roads only, where I could feel at home, and relax, and be whatever I feel like, without trying to catch up with the rest of the world.

Then comes the planning. I asked my friend and ex- colleague Sameer for suggestions. He is an avid rider, rides all over India with his bullet group (I envy him sometimes). He suggested the areas around Meghalaya could be a good idea for my requirements. Also, bikes in rental seems to be available there, including bullets. Now, what more perfect bike it can be than a bullet for the ride I wanted! At the same time I was scared also. It has been a while I rode in India, and I never did ride alone for such a length, what about safety or other possibilities? But the though of me riding a bullet on an empty hill road won over everything. Sameer help with the schedule and suggested routes also. So, the rough idea was to fly from Kolkata to Guwahati, rent the bike and ride to Shillong same day. Rest of the trip, stay ins Shillong and go for day trips around in different directions. After searching for couple of rental options, one option seemed to be not too pricey, and did not require much documentation or deposit. Both of us called them up several times beforehand to ensure that I get the bike ready when I am there.

Day 0 (Day before the flight):

I reached Kolkata the week before, and told parents about my plan. They were worried, but they did not stop me, probably they could see how much I needed it. I packed light, as I knew I had to ride from Guwahati itself, so no check in luggage. I carried my riding jacket and gloves from Hong Kong. Apart from the bare minimum cloths and stuff, I packed my Nikon D90 DSLR, with two lenses, and a tripod, all In my backpack. When all set, I call up the bike rental to confirm again, and they say the bike wont be available before 4pm next day as it wont be returned before 2! I felt both angry and helpless, as it was too late, and I did not want to ride at night at any cost (normally it takes about 2.5-3 hours to reach Shillong). So I called up another rental agency, called 'Thor Bikes'. The guy, Shubham, sounded a decent one, and he said though its very late to call he could arrange me a 350cc electra next day, but he has to ride 3 hours to reach GW, so it will be at least 12pm. I agreed, assuming ther will be still daylight before I reach Shillong. However, he wanted my passport, and a INR 70,000 PDC before handing over the bike..., I agreed as that was my best chance.


Day 1 (Guwahati to Shillog):

I reached GW at 8 am. I called up Shubham, and he said he needs to fix some spokes but he should be there by 12-30. I waited in the airport (didn't find any interesting thing to do/see in GW anyway) for 4 hours. He called me at 12, telling me that there were more spokes to be fixed, and he is starting now, and only will reach by 3-30!! No matter how much i tried to avoid night ride, it was on my fate. I kind of accepted the situation and convinced myself that no point backing down or wasting more day in GW (that reminds me, I was told there was a big bandh in Shillong next day). The bike arrived at 3-30, and I could only start at 4. Shubham, sensing my worry, offered me to ride with me as pillion till Megahalaya border, so I don't miss roads and waste more time.

The first thing I realized when I twisted the throttle, that it was not a Z800, it is something else. And I took some time to get accustomed with the riding style and controls (not too many there, hehe). After few kilometers, Shubham told me that I was shifting like a sport biker, and need to be smoother, and it took a while for me to slowly get into the mood of riding a Royal Enfield. I was amused to discover there is no way to know your fuel reserve! I was doing between 40-60, which was slower of course, but needed to be comfi first. Once I started riding alone going up the hill roads, it eventually became a hellish experience for me though for following reasons:

1. The highway is being upgraded to 4 lane, but sections are really in bad shape
2. Massive amount of smoke and dust hitting the eyes (I wear lenses)
3. Trucks and cars can come to you at any point, any corner
4. It was getting dark, and most of the cars/trucks don't even turn their lights on till its pitch dark!

In one sentence, I lost my basic skills to ride in India. Hence, it took me 4 longgg hours to reach Shillong, and I was completely wasted. The only picture I could take using my phone:



I was sure I could not ride next day, for the bandh, so I checked in the hotel, and went for a sound sleep.

Day 2 (around Shillong):

In the morning I asked the reception about the status for Bandh, at to my surprise, they said everything is fine and moving in the city, only highways could be a problem. I decided to take some easy rounds around the town. Places included few small lakes, Shillong Peak and the Air Force camp area.



Toward Shillong Peak




Shillong



Made in India

It was a nice, cold, but sunny day, and more I rolled with the thump hitting my heart on the curvy, tree shaded roads, I started to get a feeling this is going to be a trip to remember!

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Day 3 (Cherapunjee/Sohra):






After taking those snaps, I hit the road, and oh dear, such twisties! I finally was happy to turn on every corner and let the environment, the thump of my bike, and the Sun on me, and the view unveiling more every moment.








I have not ridden in every best road in India, but I can still say without doubt it is one of the best roads to ride a bike in India, especially with continuous curves and corners. I stopped several times to take pictures, and it is a tedious thing as every time I had to get of my helmet n gloves, untie the bag, get the camera out, and do same to ride again. However, I am glad I did so, because to me riding was not only about reaching somewhere, but to experience the journey itself.



Once I reached the Cherapunjee area, took a right turn to a smaller road that takes you to the Chera Resort. It was a narrow road, but exciting as it kept turning and going through the rocks. My plan was to reach the resort, have lunch there, and then go check out one of the living root bridges. The resort is in quite nice location and ideal for a weekend. The manager was helpful enough to find me a local guide who suggested we go to the smaller one, which could be reached by foot and takes about 3-4 hours. The bigger (double decker) one will take longer, and I had to get back to Shillong same day.




We started walking down the forest next to the resort toward the bridge and river; the steps were naturally made and were quite irregular. While gravity helped while going down (about 1700 ft), I was not sure how it would be while coming back, given my health and fitness conditions. The bridge itself was quite a thing, once you understand how the villagers channel the tree roots over the river and it takes many many years to take shape. The river was dry (I had chance to see another two days later) but was still quite interesting.





On the way back, as I mentioned my poor fitness and Diabetes/sugar fall exhausted me a lot. Got back to the resort, had lunch and tea and some rest, so I can ride back again.



When I hit the road back again, Sun is setting, and it unfolds the folds of the silent valley and the mountains on a warmer tone.







I ride, I feel the Sun on my back, casting shadow of myself and the thumping bike on the road, as I twist and turn. I tell to myself, this is what I wanted, this is the moment to drink to the last drop, this is what a biker do.

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Superb pics Kaustav.

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Nice Clicks Kaustav

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Wonderful clicks B-)

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Day 4 (Mawphlong):

I was quite tired after the 6 hour ride and 3 hour trek, so decided to take it easy on the next day. After spending a lazy morning around town and tasting some nice MoMo, I headed for the Mawphlong valley. It is supposed to be a sacred grove for the locals, and the valley is quite lush green in monsoons. However, it was hardly green when I reached, though It was still beautiful. next to the valley there is a theme tourist village, but I found absolutely no one there. The eerie feeling was quite something enjoy, like being the only one in a ghost village!














Fun Fact: I only used my tripod once, and it's for the photo below .

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Day 5 (Dawki & Mawlynnong):


Many of us may know about Mawlynnong, which is considered to be the cleanest village in Asia. Of course, I wanted to know how clean it is, and if its any different than other model villages. On the same route, one could keep going on toward the Bangladesh border, and cross the river to reach the last village on Indian side, called Dawki. I decided to do both, riding all the way to Dawki first, and then do the other on way back.

It was a cloudy day, with patches of drizzle now and then, and it started to become quite chilly once I started to go through the mountain roads. However, the views were magnificent and worth the cold.







After a while, about midway, the road started to go from bad to non-existent on NH 40. At some point of time, I felt like I am riding through Grand Canyon. I was hoping for better roads to come, and at some point even thought cutting short my ride to only visiting Mawlynnong. However, roads again got better, and I bypassed the turn toward Mawlynnong, and proceeded toward Dawki. The last bit of the hill road was again pathetic, and I was almost doing off-roading, till I reach the river and the bridge. Once I reached, all my frustration and tiredness was gone again. The bridge and the river was quite a view to look at!



For some security reasons they don't let you take pictures on the bridge, but I was able to stop and sneak peak one with my phone



I crossed and reached Dawki, and decided to help myself with Some Momo and tea. The shop owner suggested me to take another route to Mawlynnong, which is along the Bangladesh border, and much nicer. After a short break, back on the saddle, and before I leave, took some more shots of the river, as the boats and the rocks, and the green water was worth shooting!









After crossing back the bridge, I took a left to get into the the other road I was told about, and it was an amazing route take. The surface was narrow but nice, winding its way though and up the forest and villages, sometimes dotted by BSF camps. While riding I could literally feel the scent of the forest, flowers and butterflies along the road. I would definitely recommend anyone who visits this part of Meghalaya to take this route.




Locate the bike!


Who goes faster







Before one reaches Mawlynnong, there are more similar villages which seem to be pretty clean by me. I went ahead till I reach the village and yes, it looked clean. In fact, it was too clean! I spotted villagers sweeping the streets here and there, and it almost reminds of the pictures of the European villages. Many of the houses offer home stay and food, I decided to get in one for lunch, and it was quite nice. Apart from the tidy streets, I could see many tall bamboo structure with bamboo ramps going up to the pavilion at top. they seemed to offer views of the village and Bangladesh border. I decided to check one of them and, though it may seem a bit scary the bamboo ramps were quite strong!


View from the top







One nice thing to mention, is all the villagers are very courteous and speak English. In fact, a big population of the state seem to speak English quite well!

On the way back, there is another root bridge, which was a easy to reach and had some water in the river! When I reached there, I was the only person, and it was a calm, yet very soothing environment to be in (till more tourists arrived).











On the way back, I knew I had to still cross the bad patches, and cold mountains, but the fog and afternoon Sun created a beautiful ambiance, which made the ride memorable again.










I stopped once more for a needed tea break before I make it back to Shillong. I stopped in the shop for tea while going in also, and the girl shop owner asked me about my plans then, and she was interested to know I was riding alone. I do not know if me riding solo impressed her, this time she offered me the tea for free . I convinced her to pose for me. also.



My trip was almost coming to an end, and the setting Sun reminds me that I have one more morning left before I head home.

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Simply marvellous pictures! I specially liked that of the bridge.

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Wow very nice... Very nicely written and pictures are amazing.

Re: Near The Clouds: A solo ride to Meghalaya

Really nice pictures you have there