I havent seen that thread though.Juts a general suggestion!

Ohh Man What timing!! Bomb blasts in Guwahati just the previous day i entered and now this Nepal thingy. Any way Sikkim will take like atleast a week from now. Will keep track of events and plan accordingly.

Haxor: Bhutan is good but not that inviting to go second time in the same trip and bear all the permit bureaucracy

Day 58 - May 05 - Guwahati to Gangtok

May05 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

572KMs Trip Meter 10232 KMs

Wanted to start early as i was really troubled by the heat in Ghy the previous day. Just wanted to climb up the hills. Was wondering if Gangtok was possible. If assam roads keep up their promise then it should be.

Started by 7 am bid byes to Pinaki and time for some spirited riding on the planes. THe roads were very nice and maintaining 90-110 was not a problem. Ofcourse had to brave a couple of bad patches but acceptable. Basically today was to be a ride through. After like 180 kms i see a sign board ahead of me Saying Guwahati 185KMs! Man i just came from there!! It seems thats by the other route north of NH31 via Rangia. There i had to take a left actually. NH31A as said in the Eicher map does not exit. So had to go to Siliguri anyway. Entering Westbengal the roads suddenly worsened, to add to that millions of trucks were waiting on either side of the border and it was a dust storm these behemoths were rising. As i continue i was surprised to see lot more people, cycles rikshaws endlessly. I mean how can the dencity of population be so different accross the border when both states are predominantly Bengali population. Any way roads improve later on and i make it to Siliguri by 4PM.

Gangtok 100 kms away and siliguri not less hot. I wanted to make it to kalimpong atleast. The roads got hilly and but they were very good. Was thinking i should get to some place before 5pm. But here the weather was good, the road was good and lot of regular traffic. So the road may not be so isolated after all i decided to push it to Gangtok. Enjoying the curves left and right. Taking quite a few pix on the way as well. Takes few kms to settle into the hill mode as i was caught watching the scenary and was like riding towards the edge. I crossed the deviation to kalimpong by 5.30 and Gangtok was like 45 kms. But with the good roads i pushed on and soon i was in Sikkim. Just into the border could see the sikkim being Vella. Pretty developed. I ride at a brisk pace and reached Gangtok by 6.30. Now the familier tension of finding a hotel with parking in a hilly city. The city was growing on and on through switch backs and did not know where to look for the hotel as in which is the city center. Finally made it to MG road and took a deviation to Tibed Road, which was a narrow hill road going up. Pretty confused about the room. Only some of them have narrow parking by the foot path. The cheaper rooms have nothing and the ones that have are expensive. Finally settled for a room of 450 Rs in Kanchen Residency. But boy do i have to climb like 4 floors. But settled in. Wanted to check out the MG road for the evening. But of catching a small nap as i was very tired. By the time i woke up it was like 8.30PM. Stuff close by 9 PM and hotel gate closes by 9PM! Man there goes my evening. Hurrry out and of all the places get a parcel of Veg pulow from a pub ofcourse i had peg. Then it hits me now that i am in Sikkim now what?? Its been like this at the start of each leg. yeah i have rough idea but no plan of how to go about. Frantically call sparsh who had been to sikkim and other travel forums to get some idea. Thinking that i got some crashed for the day.


Bidding byes with pinaki meeting him after 7 years!


His Enthusiastic cousin..


Beautiful North Assam Roads...




At the breakfast...


The bridge across mighty Bhramaputra...




Some wood being transported??!!


The road goes parallel to railway track for some time...


When the roads get bettor on West bengal...its like this...





Yeppiee my bike did a 20K...


Never expected a stupa in Siliguri, but its there!!


Hills towards Sikkim... Quite a lot more hills to get into Sikkim...


Man this is the second time in the day i am getting a sign board to Guwahati... I have come from Guwahati and this point i had done 475 from Guwahati!!...


The river Teesta...


Some monkey business...


The poser...


The Three monkeys on a break!!


Beautiful curvy roads...


River Teesta again...


Some tall trees along the way...


Welcome to Sikkim...


The main arch...


No more pix as it got dark and i slept in the room!!

Day 59 - May 6 - Around Gangtok

Got up lazily and today was just the permit gathering day. Weather pretty clear and i start off with my textile jacket and start sweating in no time. Gangtok is not very high but just high enough to keep it cool. The streets are like crazy narrow and steep and some of the switchbacks are lil scary if u dont take them properly.

Thanks to Sparsh for the his information on the permits, i went straight to Secretariat's office. Even Deputy Secretory and Joint Secretory were there and put my application in process. The cheerful staff asked about my journey etc. There was lot of work on the permit for them. I was asked to fill up and data sheet which they would type out later. But by now The chiefs have gone for meeting so can get permit only by 2PM it seems. This was cutting close as the other office of Army and Check post close by 4PM. But no choice.

With a couple of hours to kill i dump the bike back at the hotel foot path and walk to MG Road. Very pretty road where vehicles are not allowed. This can be the flatest place in Gangtok and its a well developed city on Hills. Nice weather and i enjoy my walk in the sun and enter a Baker's hotel up stairs to have something different. It had great view next to the table in the window. Spend hour there and time to worry about permits. Went there by 2.15 and i was told that work is in process! Why is it so complicated here. Its lot more hectic compared to the troubled states of NorthEast. By 3PM my permit is ready in 4 original copies! Had to give two on the way up north and one at Army camp and one at Checkpost. They said instead of me going they would fax the copy to Army and that would save some time. Even after saying that few friends had come here few months back and they had to convince army to let them through. But the clerk said that difficulty only when we go on our own not if they fax it to army directly. Well i trusted them and got no choice as well.

Then i rushed to Check post office and Lo its closed at 3PM!! Ohh common. Giving a whole day for permit purpose is also not working. I was called at the tourism office then next day at 7am to get the final permit. There goes my early start to NathuLa the next day!

It was like 4 and was thinking of checking out Rumtek monastery. Saw a book store and wanted to check if they had Lonely planet of Nepal. Instead i met Raman and Kharchung there, Who were bulleters and Kharchung had even done a 40 day ride coming all the way to Bangalore. The weather was deteriorating and they discouraged me on Rumtek and they were right. In just a few mins it started pouring outside. we got into a conversation over Tea. As the rain cleared up in half hour went back to my hotel. Met Eric and Laura at the Hotel who were riding around india on their Bullet. We planed to hang out for dinner.

It was a nice evening with Erick and Larua at the Neat hotel with Balcony seating. Very adventurous people who came to travel in India by trains and busses. which they did for some time then caught up with bullet. Eric learnt how to ride a bike here on a bullet and started traveling on that! Now talk about adaptability!! Then on we shared our travel experiences and other insights over a few drinks. It was a uncertain day for Nathu La tomm.


Streets of Gangtok...


The Secretariat who would grant me the pseudo permits!!


Thats a 4 road junction!!


They have these fensed walkways for miles together and nobody walks away from it!!


Never seen so many multistoried buildings on hills!!


Walk way near MG Road...


Now that was some steep road and had pretty uncomfortable switch back at the end...


MG Road... Gangtok's pride..




The hilly streets..




Its MG Road, a road but no vehicles are allowed...


Settled in this neat baker cafe for the lunch...


It had great views...


I am at the Book store with Raman... and my bike is taking quite some water...


Pouring rain....





As the sky clears the view is fantastic... Too bad i dont have this view in my room...

Day 60 - May 7 - Nathu La Saga!

May07 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

Got up to a beautiful sunny morning. Every minute i felt i was wasting the good weather. But have to deal with the permits.

Got to check post office by 7.15 and boy was there chaos. The staff does both the work of local license papers and permits together! and there was not Q. When i got my chance to speak i was told to get my documents and photos! Man this seems never ending process. That took around half hour to get all the xeroxes again and lot more people squeezing through the window. seeing my predicament a good man took my papers, ploughed into the crowd called on the official regarding my permit! He responded and got mine in like 15 mins. But the permit says only BabaMandir and not NathuLa! As it was not in their power it seems. Man i dont have anything from the army now and hope the clerks at the secretariat did their job correctly.

By now i was not feeling took good in the tummy. Felt kinda sick. But knew once i get on the bike things will be fine. But the hotel staff take eternal time to get me my parotas. Get out my 9.10 only to know that i can get fuel going down the highway crossing the city. This was agonizing waste of 25 mins riding down to the fuel pump and back again.

Caught the road to NathuLa only by 9.30. Reached the first check post and on giving the permit copy was told to hurry up as the Nathula Gate will close by 11.30 and i have 1.5 hours to make the 45odd Kms. Gate closes? which gate i have no intention to go into china. But thought there must be one more so din wanna take chance and hurried up. The weather could not have been bettor. Bright warm sunshine, sparse white clouds and vivid blue sky and the dark green mountains, going lighter as i climb. So many places i wanted to stop and soak in the views but have to hurry. cut down on my photos and thought would take some on the way back. Based on my experience, if u needa take a picture, take it now or the later thing never works even coming back the same way. And its more interesting taking pix going. But with frustration kept riding watching the scenery go by. The climb was pretty steap and were climbing in a hurry. The views only got bettor. Uncontrollably stopped a few times for pix but generally pushed. To my luck there was a land slide and traffic was stopped. Luckily it opened up in 10 mins and i ride briskly. Lots and lots of sumos to overtake. Every body to Gangtok takes this road. But most only go to Baba mandir.

The roads were smooth twisties and after some time it got bad and more worse patches lay ahead. It was bright sunny all the way so made do with minimal winter wear. Reach Tsomgo Lake which is at 12300 feet. But the by the way the bike was gasping i thought we were much higher. It must be prolly the incline. A pretty green lake with brown back drop. There were this lot of wolly Yaks. The Real yaks i have seen so far, colorfully decorated and with seats on their backs. They take people on small rides. Prolly could a got a pic with my gear on but pushed ahead. The road got real pathetic. All the while climbing up and up. Have to overtake lot of Sumos.

Finally at 4KMs to NathuLa there is a gate. This is what the check post office was talking about. Showed my pemits and was promptly told this wont do and i cant get in. WTH... they needed an army permit it seems. But the secretariat staff told me that i dont need to do anything. This arrogant guards at the gate wouldn't listen to any of may pleas. It was a strict know and like what if you are riding from 10k kms, what ever save it and you are not going! One guy suggested going down 6 KMs to Brigade and try their. Now did not want to do the worst of the stretch so far with lot of water crossings and slush sections. One more guy said to visit babamandir and try calling the secretariat from there.

Went their and saw these boards saying chinese posts are observing this stretch of road. But i was in no mood to click. This was really frustrating. Damn those staff at secretariat. How could they put people into trouble like this. To my luck the fone lines are broken down.
Came back to the gate and explained the situation, was instead told to run down to Gangtok. These were the most arrogant army men i have met so far. Now i turn back my bike with a pang. so close and yet so far. But my one last chance for the day was at the Brigade. On the way was thinking should i spend one more day on this and comm again tomm. Went to the Brigade and Cournal Swamy heard my story and was pretty receiving. Checked my identity, and inquired about my travel so far. He also said if i was so adventurous why dint i join the army?!! any way He said i can go and they would inform the gate to let me through.

Left with a hearty thanks and have to ride the worst parts again. To make matters interesting blasting was scheduled near NathuLa for road construction and i was to hurry. May the whole day which could have been peaceful pleasure ride is getting hurried. I reach the gate by 2PM. The guard now lets me through. After some distance once more guard tells me to visit the place and come back quick. Well more pressure. Finally reached the coveted Nathula pass and Indo China border. As i was taking pix of my triumph, i was told to park the bike a couple of switch backs down and walk up a plat form to the side to see the border as only VIP vehicles are allowed near the gate it seems. I take a few quick clicks and ride down.

Now i had to climb lot of stares in a hurry at the altitude of 14k feet and i had no water and food since morning. The winds were picking up and the wind chill was pretty cold. As i get to the top. Mr Agith Kumar singh gives me a tour of the place. I take plenty of pix of the china land. And what you know even shook hands with a Chinese soldier. He was pretty disinterested, prolly been through his share of being a picture prop for Indian tourists.

The views around were great with towering mountains all around but not as impressive as BumLa.

The road on the other side looked damn good. Now i hurry down as the guard below was calling on to me. As i had to leave and only then they can start the blasting. It was in a hurry but i still made it. Got back to the gate and asked for some hot water. Instead i got a fruity from the army guard. Now i could sense his disapproval about my insistence of visiting the china border, as in should an Indian be so desperate to see a bit of china. As asked me like now what did i gain by going there and what did it see there on the china?? !! Hehe will i told the road on the china side was very good. He felt agitated and asked like being a India how could i appreciate their road. We have bettor roads it seems. But wats the point in having have false pride. It was me who had the back breaking ride and it was me who will be riding the worst stretch for 4 times now! And how the hell can i proud of our roads?! Any way not wanting to get into a debate there, i changed the topic and took a few pix of the gate and got moving.

By now the clouds were building up and things were getting cold. It was already like 3.30 plus and the pretty sunlight was over for the day. Man this permit process. Else i could have lazed this ride with plenty of breaks. But now it gets gloomy and i just feel like getting back tot he room. Still take a few pictures on the way back but noting seemed as pretty and interesting as in the morning. And i was right pix on the way back did not work. Even missed taking a picture of a board saying. The worlds highest cyber cafe! can see clouds on the mountains below. Soon i am riding in the thick mist. Luckily when i got down from the mist the weather was good in Gangtok and unlike i expected did not have to do a rain ride. Got back to the hotel by 5PM.

It was party all evening with Eric and Laura as it was his birthday and the hotel had great live music too..

Thats the crowd to negotiate to get my permits...


Jam on the narrow road as a stupid truckie had entered a one way!


Beautiful sky in the sunshine...


The first check post...


Getting high up...


Pretty good roads for quite some time..


Landslide break... and this guy was fancying my bike...


Atleast a good place for the break...


Road being worked on...


Yak Ride any one?


Never seen such huge Yaks...


Bike at the Tsomgo Lake... at 12300 feet...


Approaching Nathu La...


Baba Mandir where most tourists go...


Finally i made it...


Bike at the Nathu La Gate...


Have to pose alright...


The height of Nathu La 13973 feet..according to my fone...


A memorial for soldiers at the border...


Steps leading to observation deck...


They are building another great wall!!


Some Gyan...


That fence is the border and the construction work is in china and they are the chinese workers...


Thats their post office...


Thier observation posts...


The soldier took my potrait i never told and knew till i previewed. But dont i look happy


Me with china land in the back ground...


That's Mr Ajit Kumar Singh who gave me a tour of the place...


Chinese soldier and an Indian Biker shaking hands over the border fence...


Thats envious road they have....


Thats the china Land...


Now thats the road our side leading to Nathu La... work in progress...




One of the many lakes...


Have to ride all the mountains you see....


Yes


The gate that took me couple of hours to cross!!


Tourists reveling on the snow...


Thats ice!








Dust on the road means lot of bumpy ride...


Cloud play...


Some water crossing.... i had to cross it for 4 times!!!


Tsomgo Lake not so bright now...


The climb down to Gangtok...






Now we have some mist...


More mist....


Nice view from Gangtok City...


Verticle travel for the day...

Nice log again. Nice photographs of Logs of wood being transported, construction of new railroad track... I am enjoying this.

great going PRAVEEN.Some very good pic there and nice trip log also.Try to name the hotels also for future refference.
how long you are going to stay in Sikkim?

This thread is on my must read everytime I log in. Awesome pics, you having & visiting places like heaven. Those lakes & snow was very inviting..... the peace of mind these places offer is nice.

I keep checking those pics again & again.... I fall short of words expressing my views on your ride. Just brilliant !!
With your permission I'd like to steal some for my comp wallpaper.

yen guru !! . ishtu bega ! .. sooper ..

WOW!!! Sikkim is picturesque. Kudos to Eric and Laura. Wish them all the best.
Helmets off to you Praveen. Great going. Ride safe. Best wishes for your future journey.

Just amazing PKM! been reading through more posts that i've missed out on and they are truly amazing! Very inspiring! Kudos to u man!

Wonderful pis there Praveen.! You are my inspiration for doing the long and hard solo trips. If not for a mammoth one;s like you, at least the weekend solo getaways are becoming common. Thanks to you! Solo trips now have a different feeling for me

the buddha monastery was build ages ago by the buddhist
ages ago and it is situated in salugara in the outskirts of siliguri
OT: planning to go to darjeeling or kalimpong?

some pics from my side!

@PRAVEEN:where are you now?heard there is landslide in yumthang route,many tourist are stuck in middle of nowhere.

Thanks Ken

JonnyBravo: Na man getting into china with bike is not easy I had to chance to ride in Burma. Indian with private vehicles are allowed to visit a lake inside the Burma border. But the rains and bad roads discouraged me.

Nabendu: Will be heading to Pelling now and will prolly will stay there for today. WOw thats news i am out of Yumthang 2 days back and had my share of landslide blockeds but was in civilized area...

Sure Abhishek you can take the pic

Hydro: yes saar aaagoitu yen madodu

Thanks Jonak, kwokFist and ananth

Nice pix there Haxor. Planning to go to Darjeeling today or tomm...