praveen, once you are back in shanthi park, let me know buddy. I shall come with a 160GB HDD for all your photos

Welcome back Praveen!!

What a rider Praveen is...in fact it's xbhp tourer diaries and praveen's blog that has encouraged me to do road trips on bike again. For the past 3 years I have been on road trips in 4 wheels, but now I am all pumped up to ride on my humble fav pulsar again. I feel xbhp bangalore meet will be a great place to meet you all...and could be a strat of a new journey

Kwokfist: yeah was totally crazy road. You should have see the way the locals ride there! It was more like the bike tipped

over than a fall. So its fine actually. Glad to keep you interest in the logs.

Thanks moeed and yogesh kale.

vikram: sure man but will be few days to make it till delhi...

outwardly maniac: that was some stuff on the face, but it goes of in like a few hours. Not too sure of visiting local docs.

On of the general physician near the hotel wanted 1000 Indian rupees for just a consultation i already felt a lil

bettor hehe. Ofcourse i did not consult him. Thanks for wishes.

Ravi: Thanks man. Yeah i know but i had no choice but to lay it down. The roads were much worse than the pix show. It was a

total of around 220 kms of hardcore offroading riding. Hehe i know, i felt the same when i saw the black top.

Aryan: Thanks. Not sure actually

Thanks MG_Biker. I know.. things are just happening hehe.

Sarathm: Nothing like that It was just that the bike tipped over, not a fall actually. I had to lay the bike down after

it bent so much that i could not pull it up.

Bhogvan: You never know what you will get on to and when Sure will meet up in bangalore...

Thanks Nio and tourer_khashif

Pranay: Generally roads have been good in Nepal. But particular strech seems to be a new one. It was mainly a trekking route. Its still part of the annapurna trek cicuit. Most of the things here are still in trekking setup. The track and trek route branches out time to time and meets at the towns inbetween. So basically they have just dug up the path. Intend to put a road in future. Looks like really long time in future Guess locals are happy that there is a road now. I even saw some porters carrying stuff like in base camp trek!

Thanks insanebiker, Nabendu, vipin, pradeep_reddy and Aparajit

Hehe sure Darthveda

ragiroti: Thats a nice user name. wish i could have some around here. Been too long since i had em Good luck on you tours ahead with two wheels less

Made it to Varanasi today. Boy is it hot here. I mean literally. Today was 46 degrees!!

@praveen: so next stop is Agra.

@Nabendu: Guess will be skipping Agra

Day 103 - June 19 - Pokhara to Gorakpur

June19 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Community

276 KMs.... Trip Meter 13149 KMs

After three days of supposed rest with bad health. It was time to hit the road. It was real bad as in i was on soup and juice the previous 2 days as the stomach had gone on strike! Puked water! And hardly any sleep. The weight lifting and the restless offroading had taken its toll. After seeing no improvement from the weakness, cramps and indigestion for three days, i had enough of it all. May be should have gone to a hospital, but then dunno the implications of it ahead. So i decided to hit the road what ever happens.

Woke up the alarm at 4.30. Supposed to be a 485 kms journey if i wanna hit Varanasi the same day. But not so easy. Felt totally weak. Takes a few minutes just to get up. And everything happens in slow motion. Every small chore is a big task now. Finally its like 9 am when i get started. Again had just soup in the morning. Ride out to uncertainty. To road towards Butwal is hilly for like 160 kms and it was just double of 80kms i thought to butwal. The road was full of tarmac but seemed dishaped as if melted in heat or so. Prolly the weak road gave way to the heavy trucks that ply. All these bumps not helping my cramps at all. But i find some energy and something magic happens! I am feeling hungry! This is not the first time riding has curing effect on me! This is what i was looking for. But not much of eating places around. Not till i reach Walling i find a place to eat. Have rice and curry. Solid food after couple of days feels good. I hope it passes. Now i am feeling bettor. I am in ride mode. Wonder if there would be the same improvement if i was in the room for one more day! The curvey ride contineous. And the road quality becomes great and i actually start enjoying the ride now. But all this and late start means its doubtful of reaching varanasi.

Nearing Butwal like 2pm and i again feel hungry. Hurray the food passed. Just before hitting the planes near Butwal there is a road block due to a Landslide. Takes some time to clear it and let the opposite traffic pass through. Then hit the plains nearing Butwal and head straight towards the border town Sunauli. Wide straight roads and it was some time i had cruised. Find one more place to eat more solid food. I even get a cup of curds. Then i head to my country. Was kinda worried cos i was like 5 days over the road tax i had paid. It was hectic near the border. Lot of trucks lined up waiting for their turn to get checked. Exchange the Nepali currency to Indian at the border. This is my fourth border crossing in the trip and this is the first one where India had a Arch saying 'Welcome to India'. I am now between the two gates. Take customary pix. Nobody is bothered to check my papers. I call on to the Nepali cops and deposit the temporary number plate given to me at Pashupatinagar when i entered. They just took it and said its done! No checking of the road tax! Good for me. As i cross over to India with a smile on my face, and India soldier wants to check my stuff. On telling that i am on tour he lets me go. Saved me a lot of time. It was lil more chaotic on the Indian side. And its hot. Its only going to get hotter as i head south. If felt great to be back in India. I find these wide empty roads. The speedo says 110 and even touched 120! Been a long time. Felt great to talk to the wind. Its like 3.30PM and i see a board saying varanasi 304KMs! Looks like not happening. And i am tired too. Well i was tired even before i started. Did not want to push too much so decided on Gorakpur for the day. Its still a 90 kms away.

Cruised my way there and when i the town... err city... it was chaos every where. I was shocked and scared. People, vehicles come from all directions. Have to watch out for people coming on the wrong side. Just got tense as finding a place to stay. After like riding half hour in the city, Asked a petrol bunk guy who suggested me Hotel President which had parking. It was tough to identify that. Cos there are like millions of hoarding on the road that its very difficult to find what you want. And boy was it hot there. Finally make it to the hotel and settle into the room. Everything seems reasonable priced. Though unlike in Nepal cant play big money any more. But still things were reasonable priced. There is nothing much to do but settle some bills and visit ATM to cash up in Indian currency. Then doze off thinking will start early tomm.



Good to be back on road...




Seeing the last of Nepali mountains...




Some great roads towards Butwal...







Last Nepali valley view...




Land slide nearing Butwal...







Motorcyclist closely follow the Earth mover as its working towards clearing the land slide!!




Straight roads towards Sunauli...




Trucks lined up at the border....




The Nepali border arch...




There's one for India too here!!







Looking back towards Nepali gate...







Long way to go...




Empty roads i see after a long time...




Wow! Indian veg thali Wish i was in a position to eat all of it

Day 104 - June 20 - Gorakpur to Varanasi

June20 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Geotagging Community

GPS in the fone kept on crashing! So only party of the trail got recorded....

219 KMs Trip meter 13368 KMs

On alarm its still not easy to get up. Feel the weakness and cramps. But bettor than the previous day. Since it was only 200 kms for the day got lazy and was like 10 am when i started. Boy was it hot. I heard varanasi may be slightly cooler due to the river. The supposed to be good road is interlaced with good and rough patches. Its hot every where. Its dry air. All the people, though not wearing helmets wear this cloth around their head to protect from the sun. Progress is very slow. Manage only 100 kms in 3 hours and i am hungry now! but its a torcher as i don't find any place to eat. I see all kinds of shops but not hotels! I even find a computer center in one of the town's out skirts but not a hotel.

Was craving for hotel badly. Now lowered my comfort zone real low and just looked for any place to eat where i can sit and shade and watch over my bike. It was frustrating when i passed a town. There were two nice restaurants but not place to par the bike! Cursing i rode on. Finally gave in to a truck dhaba. Rice and curry and couple of tomatoes, cucumber and fanta does it for me. Pretty happy feeling full i ride a bit and there is this nice cool restaurant with parking as well! Then one more! hehe could only laugh it out. And what do you know its like 4 hours i left and still 100 kms to go. Its getting hotter and hotter. Now more or less ride continuously and reach Varanasi by 4.30 pm. Its not just a town its a city too. But as i wanted to stay near the ghat, Assi ghat in particular as i had heard of some hotels there. As i went into the smaller roads, man O man it was scary. People, vehicles come from all directions. It was damn hot, i was tired and the uncertainty of a new city. Kinda felt like crying Finally reached Assi ghat. Take a couple of pix and now to find hotel. All the good hotels with AC did not have parking. Found one hotel 'Temple on Ganges' who had some pseudo parking as it was in a enclosed area, i settled for it. The room even had a view of Ganges. No AC though. Heard its offseason around here.

Take some rest. Try out a evening walk to the ghat couple of minutes away. It was hard walking as i was still not fully recouparated. It was pretty hot as well. And i have Paani puri Felt good after a long time. Noting much to do here, or rather i can do, so just back to the room for rest. Have to get up early tomm for a boat ride to view all the Ghats.



The Bustling city of Gorakpur still not very active in the morning...








Long dry roads...



Its so dry, is farming possible? Do i see a truck wheelie there?




Trying to bring life...




Some good roads...




People where these cloths to protect themselves from the sun...




Dry, hot road...




In Varanasi city...




At Assi ghat... some gyan...




My bike there with Ganga river in the background...




An evening walk on the Ghat...




The river and the Ghats one next to each other...




GangaMahal Ghat next to Assi Ghat...




Not so clean though...




Chat!! yeppie!!

Finally back to India brother Congrats..
Ride long Ride safe

Thanks Nio



Day 105 - June 21 - In Varanasi

June21 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Geotagging Community

Up by 5 am. Its now getting easier to get out of the bed but the cramps in the calf muscles take some walking before it loosens up. The helpful hotelier sent out his assistant to get me a boat. Its Raju the gentleboatman. Its not really cool in early morning but pleasant enough. All the ghats are peaceful and hardly any activity. The real estate is pretty occupied. some private ghat for hotel, some for an association etc etc. There was even a ghat for Karnataka state! Came to know that the length of the ghats was like 7 KMs and can be walked all the way. Passed Harishchandra Ghat where they cremate the bodies. Then on i see some activity. Lot of it near Dasasvamedha Ghat and Rajendraprasad ghat. These two are supposed to be main ghats and lot of people there in the temples. The boat ride was like a recce and now i know where the huge aarthi ceremony happens every evening. So have to be here in the evening. sail ahead to till the Manikaran Ghat. Which had lot more bodies being burnt. This is where we turn back. There was some more ghats ahead, but not significant it seems. Plus the sun was gaining so it was nice to be done with soon. Row back lil closed to the ghats this time cos it was against the current now and its easier for the boatman near the shore than a lil in the water. The 1.5 hour boat ride for just 150 bux. Money surely has a lot of value here.

By now i am hungry. Wanted to treat myself with some Idlis!! Yeah... the last i had was in Darjeeling. Common a south indian always craves for idlis especially when stomach is not doing well. Hop on my bike and brave the heat in search of kerala cafe. Find it though. The lazy waiter really picking on me taking his own time. Finally i have a plate of idly in front of me. I am so happy Not really as good as at home but still i hog on it. That was nice. Thought of visiting Kashivishvanath temple before heading to room. But i was led only deep into the chaos and the heat was building. Found a narrow entrance and the cops wanted to check the panniers in detail. Now not really in mood of spreading out the things there in that chaos and heat, told them will come back by rickshaw. No parking for bike there as well, even if i did find i guess cops would have security concerns about the contents. So headed back to the room. By now the hotelier had arranged for a cooler for my room. The noisy ones popular in Delhi homes. Its great the living is so much easy now. With the peak heat i ended up indoors most of the day.

For lunch i was tempted to find a south Indian thaali. Why am i mentioning this chore? well i had to brave the heat for that. Got onto a cycle rickshaw. And boy was it hot. The hot air kinda burns the skin. Even the eyes need more moisture. It was 46 the previous day not sure today. But it was damn hot. Of all the things i carry, i dont have a thermometer! Again the food of somewhere else adopted by local people does not really taste good.

By 5pm i have some work to do. I leave almost every thing at the room and just go with a few rupees. Cos i heard it was pretty strict at the temple. It was another long cycle rickshaw ride. They have their own way of gaining momentum, energy saving and wild maneuvers to get ahead without wasting the pedle energy they have already invested. The slow speed, races, overtakings, cuts etc were all real but just slow. Lot of activities on either side of the road. Lot of shops, pans, desi junk food etc etc. Get dropped off to the temple. All this work and i was charged 15 bux! I couldn't really accept the 5 rs back and went ahead. Get into the galli for the temple. There is a whole labyrinth in there, bustling with people. It was hot as well. Wish i had my camera to capture that. One guy stopped me and said chappal not allowed ahead and leave it at the shop. Ok thats fine they every had small lockers for keeping mobile phones and watches and stuff. But cant simply walk, i am thrusted with a small box and some offering to the god!! Ohh man its all a business process and i know cant back out now. Can only but pay up for that. I walk into every closing in contours. More and more frisking, my pen gets taken away! Glad they left the rooms keys alone! Then a guy puts a packet on top of my hands and was pretty forceful of buying that. Well 20 bux was received with thanks. So guys when you go there keep your hands down even if carrying something else stuff will be put on ur hands and u have to pay!!

After some Q saw the golden tower and then the Vishvanath Linga pretty much on the floor level with just top visible emerging out of all the flowers, devotees had put. Then i am out. Now i have to hurry back to the lodge to get my cam and the plan is to get a boat till the main ghats to catch the Arthis that happen in the evenings. By the time i am at the lodge its like 7.15 and now i am told to hurry up. Boat will be very slow. Auto would be nice but hard to find. Then i find this young rickshaw to get me there soon. That gets him pumped and it was a wild ride till the temple. wondered any other mode would be faster than this in all the chaos. After getting dropped off its a long walk through the millions of people till the ghats and i dont miss it. Aarthi still happening. Get to a vantage point to witness it. See lot of people on boats also gathered to witness it. But i felt this is bettor point to view it. Took some pix too. No place to put tripod. Just hoped to hold the hand steady and click. Even used a pole, just to hold cam with it to reduce some vibrations. The Aarthi mainly happens on the Dasaswamedha and Rajendraprasad Ghats. Got pix to my content. Now just witnessed the ceremony. There were like thousands of people. At the end of it did not really want to walk and have another bumpy rickshaw ride. So found myself a boat to sail back. Was a bit expensive at 250 but was peaceful. Just sail to the front of the happening ghats and back towards Assi ghat where i stay. It was a pleasant sail, but i was kinda worried as well. Many places it was isolated and hardly any light. As i have heard of lot of mugging around here. But ended up with a honest boatman, who did tell me how hard he is working to support his family of two kids! Reach Assi ghat and i am on my own feet now. Looks like i am done here. There are quite some places to see, but the heat is really discouraging. Time to move on.


Morning on Ganga...


The boatman!


Holy rituals...


That's Raju the boatman...


Sailing on Ganga...


Ghats next to each other...


The holy dip...


Me...


Fort like ghat...


Water level had gone as high as the markings in yellow on the top left of the image. Been highest in 1978 till the balcony. In rains the river is as wide as 4 KMs says the boatman..


There is a Karnataka State ghat as well!!


Harishchandra Ghat, where bodies are burnt. Can see electric crematorium in the background to the left.


One in flames...


Some people at Kedarnath Ghat. It seems if one cannot go all the way to Kedarnath, coming here is treated as equivalent!


A Baba permorning morning pooja...


Cricket Ghat???


People going to the other side of the river for a bath...


The main Ghat in Varanasi, the Dasaswamedha Ghat..


Lot of people there...


People who have been cleansed of their sins....


Rajendra Prasad Ghat...


Manikaran Ghat... another place where also last righs are performed...


Lots of wood stocked...


May the soul rest in peace.


Have to turn back...


Fishermen...


Dhobhi Ghat???


Idli's YES!!


Near Kashi Vishwanath temple...


The big cooler for my room...


Evening nearing the Main ghat by road...


Aarthi ceremony happening...


People gathered on boats to witness it...





There is one more Aarthi ceremony happening at RajendraPrasad Ghat...


People there as well...


Back at Dasaswamedha Ghat.... Main Aaarthi being performed...














Try to click from a different view point...


Me there ....





Get a boat for my return... and some shaky clicks on the way back...








This boatman's name is also Raju!!


At Harishchandra Ghat...


Get to Assi Ghat and there is some drama happening, played by kids....


Yeah a marriage caravan... People had enough eneregy to dance even in this heat....

Praveen, i really run out of words to describe how inspiring ur log has been for the last (lets not count) so many weeks......After nepal, now its the turn of the plains, seing Varanasi through your lense and words have been a truly enchanting experience altogether. I havent visited this city but in this era of computers and blah blah, this city still exists with its ancient grandeur.

Here i take a bow again for the achievement u have performed and i am sure this log will continue........ride safe my Friend......

as usual great going PRAVEEN.
LOVED THIS ONE:

Vatishankar: Felt great being in varanasi. But for the heat i had to run out. Thanks for the wishes

Thanks Nabendu Wish i had taken my tripod there!

Made it to Lucknow today boy was it hot!!. Cant ride above 80 cos of the hot wind. Riding against it is a pain. But in the end an experiance!!?!! It was a nice evening hosted by Deepak, Vishwa and his friend.

I got nothin to say until ur back :-)
Two lines of appreciation here dont do justice.

Mods-u guys have had GIR/2 thread and a link to it on the front page of xbhp.
i feel this thread deserves the same treatment .
Please do add a link on the homepage .

Thats my suggestion. Id really appreciate that.
Santa
________
CANNABIS SEEDS

Ah, tremendous stuff! Days pass by, Bajaj launches it's new P220, and what not, but Praveen keeps going! 104 days gone, wonder how many more days you would be on road, traveling the country and beyond, and doing what all of us can only dream of!

Kudos Praveen! And when you DO come back, please update us.

I second it