Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15

Thread approved.

Watching this one closely. We are all anxious to find out how it pans out. Keep it comin'!

Keep riding and ride safe.

Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15

Mystery Rider do unravel the mystery soon after you complete the ride. Fantastic teaser pic there. The execution is brilliant. Ride safe and have a great trip.

Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15



Nice Ride @Mystery Rider ji

Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15

Thanks..

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If you were in Ladakh in second fortnight of June 2016, 2017 and 2018; if you saw a crazy solo rider on white Yamaha R15, that was me..

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That's NICE..

Second day - Delhi to Jammu - 625 km

If you ain’t fond of reading, no issues.. Just watch my youtube channel (Mystery Rider - The lone ranger) for my solo Ladakh ride on Yamaha R15..!!

Second Day = New Delhi to Jammu – 625 km



Many of you might have already been to Ladakh.. Many have plans that was ruined by damn COVID-19.. Those who were there, these pics will be a little reminder of heaven we saw with our own eyes.. Those who’re planning this’d be teaser.. And those, who were in Ladakh in second fortnight of June 2016, 2017 and 2018; if you saw a crazy solo rider on white Yamaha R15, that was me..

Vande Mataram..! None, but I went on this bare footed, though tiles were burning my feet..



Not Pangong Tso certainly.. Such clouds are only seen at Tso Moriri..



Cold Desert.. Nubra..



Now, here’s Pangong Tso..



Milky Way.. Can be seen with bare eyes and just like that..



Travelling Rajdhani is bliss, even though it’s train.. Least travel time, no many stations, actually superfast (easily touches 140 kmph in some sections), one needs to carry practically nothing in here except soul searching..

• Raja Dhilu founded this ancient city in year 800 Before Christ..
• This metro city was controlled by Marathi Swarajya for 50 years, मराठी माणसा जागा हो..
• This is longest serving Capital city, one of oldest inhabited cities in world..
• It is built, destroyed and rebuilt several times..
• Capital of Pandavas in Mahabharata, Indraprastha, is believed to be this city..
• Maurya Emporer Ashoka also ruled here..
• Rajput king Prithiviraj Chauhan once conquered it..
• Mohhammad Ghori and Mohammad Tughlaq ruled it..
• As I said.. This is oldest Capital city in the world..

Needless to mention we’ve arrived in Delhi, specifically, New Delhi Railway Station today morning at about 9.. Even Rajdhani was late by half an hour.. I started walking towards front while it was entering into station.. Soon as it stopped, got down and went to luggage van immediately next to engine.. Got my bike unloaded, cleared it from luggage (Indian time to get it cleared..!!).. Damn it’s HOT HOT here outside.. Gave 100/- to get bike outta of station to nearest petrol pump.. Cause one needs to empty petrol tank before loading into train.. Filled petrol and they happily allowed me to use their changing room.. I changed to riding gear.. And at about 11, while sun burning everything practically, started for Jammu..



Look at this.. He’s on right hand side of bus and wants to go left.. Classic Indian Driver.. And I also wanna go left.. What’d I say.. I forgot left turn from last year..



Those who missed last episode.. I am going on solo bike ride to Ladakh.. For second time.. And next year I again went for third time.. We will be visiting such places in Ladakh, even those riders who visited Ladakh might not have seen..

Delhi is our Country Capital and epicenter of national politics.. Its also popular among bollywood.. So many films have been shot here.. This is renowned Red Fort.. Every 15^th August, our Prime Minister hoists Tricolour from here.. This is one more marvel by Shah Jahan - Builder of a wonder - Lovers’ Paradise – Taj Mahal.. Exploring the fort would be pleasant.. But not for now..



Ok.. so I was talking about Bollywood films shot here in Delhi.. See that wall on left.. Once an alien was spotted here.. Perhaps we all saw that.. Didn’t you..? His name was PK.. हां हां वही आमीर खानवाली movie.. याद है PK की naughty हरकत..? फिल्ममें इसी दिवारपरहि तो वो सुसु करता है..



I started from Ajmeri Gate and I’m on on Delhi’s Outer Ring Road.. We will take a left here for Grand Trunk Road.. National Highway 44, which was last year.. NH 1..



World health organization has ranked delhi as most polluted city in the world.. Next year I had to face a sand storm and I actually experienced what’s meant by pollution.. I couldn’t even breath properly.. Was just forced to pull over me bike every 50 km to catch my breathing..

Anyway.. We’ll head to Sonipat, Panipat, Karnal, Ambala Bypass, Ludhiyana, Jalandhar, Pathankot and then.. Jammu at last.. a long boredom ride of 625 km.. Boredom because you have straight straight roads and nothing no one keeping you below 100 kmph.. let me clear one thing, Officially I never crossed whatever speed limit was there.. Was there any.? There was, Right..? No.? I don’t recollect.. I was never riding fast, was flying slow..!!

There is actually a lot to visit in delhi.. but if I do, I’d be losing my time ahead.. So sometime specially Delhi and Agra..

This guy is real driver.. I was around 90, and he is nowhere to be seen unless I cross 100.. Yet she seemed to have more power left to exploit.. ओ भाया, अरे कुछ अंदर बैठे लोगोंकी तो सोच..!! सारे दुबककर बैठे हैं रे..!!



These grounds were once quite a battle zone.. Do you know how Mughal Empire begun..? Even I didn’t’ know, had to search exact year.. In 1526 Mughal Emperor Babur had battle with Afgani King Ibrahim Lodi around here.. That marked beginning of Mughal Empire.. And this was The battle where gunpowder firearms and artillery was used in Indian subcontinent for first time ever..

Third Battle of Panipat took place on 14 January 1761.. Between Marathi Swarajya and King of Afghanistan, Ahmad Shah Abdali.. This battle was most ferocious and brutal one.. Pune was then marathi capital and a metro city.. Population of this metro city, including all age groups, men women children.. Everyone, was around 22,000.. Now imagine brutality of this battle.. It claimed about 1 lac lives.. Every house.. Every single home in Marathi Swarajya had at least one martyr.. It finished an entire generation..

Actually.. This was not fighting style taught by छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराज.. He used precision surgical strikes.. तभी तो उन्होने मुगलोंकी ताकदको अपनी तलवारपर तोला था..

On Panipat Flyover..



This is how we pass every toll plaza.. Without stopping (unless for intake or exhaust water), with holding our heads high and looking at Car Guys like, You’re all paying toll for that road.?? Missing all fun and sticking your heads outta window for fresh air..



Here comes Karnal.. It’s called land of Danshur Karna, son of Surya (Son)..On this land, Mughal empire lost huge battle with persian army led by Nadir Shah.. After this victory, he looted delhi and got away with largest diamond.. Kohinoor.. first time when I went for Ladakh through here, I didn’t know that Karnal is known as paris of Haryana.. And Chawala family.. Kalpana Chawala who perished in space shuttle Columbia incident, is origanlly from Karnal..



But one event we all know which Delhi hosted.. Commonwealth games 2010, which is largest sports event held in india.. Remember something, No..? These were the games wherein Geeta Fogat won her first international Gold Medal.. And Geeta Fogat is from these lands.. Haryana..



It’s too hot here.. Maybe 42 / 43..? Maybe more.. I’m feeling just how a boiling egg would feel in an oven.. Taking pit stop almost every hour and literally pouring water on my head.. You must be cool to ride long.. Both, physically and mentally.. I am eating nothing.. Too long distance to cover today..



Yet, I look my best when I take my helmet off after a long ride. I’ve a glow and a bit of helmet hair..

These roads are so straight and smooth.. It’s very hard to control yourself to keep below 100.. And I have to lean forward with my camera backpack.. So my lower back is just aching like that..



There’s something very interesting fact about this place.. And this maybe little diversion from our route.. Whenever we think of leading clothing brands in India, say Allen Solly or Peter England.. Whomsoever wear these brands, automatically gets upper lip stiff.. Right..? I mean really..? Now know this.. They’re solely Indian brands of Aditya Birla Group..

Must’ve heard of Monte Carlo thermal wares.. Maybe you’re even using them.. Does it sound Italian..? No.. no guys.. That’s purely Indian.. And so is Louis Philipe.. They’ve been given Italian.. Or French.. Or English names just because our mentality..We feel Indian products inferior and prefer foreign brands..

No no no no no.. No.. Not at all.. I’m not being philosophical while we’re enjoying smooth ride.. This discussion, since we’re passing through the city that manufactures all of these.. Yeah right here.. One of India’s big textile industry..

This is Ludhiana.. Punjab..



Guess what.. I’ve been held up in Ludhiana for almost 2 hours.. Actually I had a little doubt when I started from Delhi.. My horn wasn’t blowing properly.. But didn’t pay much attention to that.. And when I took pit stop here below Sherpur Chowk in Ludhiana.. It denied to start..

First I thought it’s heating issue and radiator maybe hot.. But that wasn’t the case.. It’s regulator had gone dead and battery won’t charge.. No battery.. No ignition.. When life throws you a curve, lean into it.. So did I..

I G-maped Yamaha Showroom..Those guys towed me.. It was great they had regulator.. Got it changed.. And now again I’m on-the-way.. I had bike’s care taken before I left Nasik.. But expect unexpected while you ride.. And this was totally unexpected being electronics part.. Two most powerful warriors are patience and time.. I had to adopt both of them here.. And two most powerful weapons are – Pain and Fear.. Never let them win us..

Another famous epic in India is Ramayana.. And we know Lava Kush as Shri Ram’s sons.. Jalandhar.. City we’re passing through.. Was once capital of King Lava.. Do you remember some history lessons..? (See, I’m the one writing – so I’m gonna ask.. Even though I don’t know nothing about anything) Harappa and Mohenjodaro..? Where remains of Indus Valley Civilization were found extensively.. It’s great that Jalandhar was also part of ancient Indus Valley Civilization..



Well guys.. Didn’t I tell you about my ride..? Ya’ll know that.. My first car is this motorcycle.. It’s a Yamaha.. Yamaha R15.. Baby R1 and truly a beast.. Didn’t bother in my last ride in Ladakh.. Neither in next year.. It’s fuel injected, tubeless tyres and 17 bhp ride.. That’s fair enough to climb any road in Ladakh.. And most importantly you can blindly trust her.. She never betrayed me in any of my rides..

If you ask me which bike you can ride in Ladakh.. And I would answer.. ANY BIKE.. EVEN STOCK SCOOTER if it’s well tuned.. Only requirement is you’re supposed to know how she responds to your touch.. Don’t get dirty thinking right away, I always meant throttle, breaks, clutch, tuning, acceleration to get torque on steep incline, ground clearance and so on.. Whatever ride it may be.. You both should be made-for-each-other.. That’s it..!!

Still have to go a long distance of 180 km.. And it’s now sure that I am not gonna reach timely there.. Visibility has reduced drastically.. Twilight is most dangerous to ride in.. Survival experts believe that clouds just behave as they appear.. Those black, dark clouds and lightning up there.. Clearly looks like heavy rain waiting for us..



And before we realize, we’re here..



Heavy rain.. I was wet before I stop somewhere.. Anyway there was nothing where I could get cover.. My riding jacket has no rain liner, so I’m totally drenched.. And riding in this weather is now freezing due to wind chill.. Now, it’s fun of riding, Sometime ago I was thinking what bloody hot is here and I want something cool.. Now it’s me only, thinking about some hot cup of coffee with all dry and hot.. It’s little raining.. But drops on helmet visor are making view blur.. and Fabulous for camera view..



I don’t know nothing.. Where I’m going actually.. Neither how much distance is remaining.. 2 hours spent in Ludhiana अब मेरी जान ले रहें हैं.. But surely, I’m somewhere and progressing inch by inch.. Exactly how an Inchworm might be feeling.?



Now it’s dry here.. We’re at Pathankot.. It’s geographic location is so strategically important.. We have Air Force Station of Western Air Command here.. It had it’s breadcrumb when it was attacked by heavily armed terrorists of Jaish-a-Muhammad.. Obviously all five terrorists were shot down.. But this incident claimed lives of 6 of our fearless soldiers..



Last year and next year I was here at around 7.00.. And now its almost 10.30.. I’m almost exhausted (Almost..? What you’re trying to prove Mystery Rider.? You’re done, but still stretching cause you’ve paid advance of Rs. 500/- for hotel booking in Jammu..) Guys.. Jokes apart, I’m going cause I have all my tight schedule ahead and I (WE) don’t wanna miss any single moment I’d live on Ladakh soil.. Everyone seems sleeping but me..



Arjun, in another epic Mahabharat, he was meditating here just before war.. “You, who always dwell in the temple on slope of mountains in Jamboo”.. This is how Arjun adderessed Mother Goddess – Vaishno Devi.. Since then, Viahno Devi is here.. Ragunath Temple.. A temple of Lord Rama here is by far one of largest temple complex in North India.. It was also attacked twice by militants..

We’ve reached Jammu finally.. And I seem kinda lost somewhere very near to my hotel.. Trying to find it.. It’s around 12.. I haven’t eaten anything since I left Delhi.. So I’m hungry and hope dinner awaits me.. See you’ll tomorrow..



Tomorrow we shall be riding deep in Kashmir, towards Sonamarg.. Where we’ll see glacier.. Experience a bit and bite of it and moving further.. There’s much more waiting ahead for we all.. See you in next episode.. Be in touch..

Re: Second day - Delhi to Jammu - 625 km

[MENTION=107450]Mystery Rider[/MENTION] ji

How do you transfer petro from extra tank to main tank ?

Re: Second day - Delhi to Jammu - 625 km

It's actually a petrol tank itself.. So it has it's on / off cock (on inner side-can't be seen here) I've removed it's button so that no one could turn that cock on / off..

I insert that button into it's place, turn it on, get petrol in bottle and pour in main tank.. Classics always work..

In Ladakh everyone would be just amazed to see that tank.. We're so used to see those plastic cans..

Day 3 - Jammu to Sonamarg

If you ain’t fond of reading, no issues.. Just watch my youtube channel (Mystery Rider - The lone ranger) for my solo Ladakh ride on Yamaha R15..!!

Third Day = Jammu to Sonamarg



Many of you might have already been to Ladakh.. Many have plans that were ruined by damn COVID-19.. Those who were there, above video will be exact reminder of what we saw with our own eyes.. Those who’re planning this’d be a virtual ride.. And those, who were in Ladakh in second fortnight of June 2016, 2017 and 2018; if you saw a crazy solo rider on white Yamaha R15, that was me..

Welcome back to another day of our journey.. Today, it’s going to be tough day, exciting day, fascinating day and much more. We shall be riding today from Jammu to Sonamarg. I always check for detailed maps before I leave any ride. Last year was my first time I went to Srinagar from Jammu. Since it was first time, I relied on travel time shown by Google Maps which was around 11 to 13 hours.. So I reserved a whole day, for a distance of around 270 km.

In a single day, in plains, we might cover distance of around 800 to 1,000 km. In mountains, make it ¼ .. However, it was different that time, as I had to go through Patnitop which is pretty hilly area. This year, I’m counting on Chenani Nashri Tunnel which would cut me distance of 40 km, but a riding time of around 3 hours. Those 3 hours, I could utilize for riding further, hence I’ve booked home stay a little before Sonamarg. In short, we’ll be riding from Jammu to Gagangir (try finding on Google Maps) today..

I usually prefer to start earliest possible in morning so you get out of town with least traffic on road. As usual, this is early morning.. I’m in streets of Jammu.. And I really liked these small buses.. They’re so pretty looking.. Just perfect to cut through tight corners in hilly areas.. I don’t wanna think about hands of driver who’s on round-a-round steering wheel, nor conductor, who’s standing all day long..



Well.. As you know.. It was midnight when I reached here yesterday.. But dinner was awaiting only for me.. And it wasn’t bad at all.. Just make sure you intimate your hotel if you’re late.. I called him by the time when he was hoping I’d reach there..

This is beautiful, both weather and road.. Watch that sign board on our left.. That’s Jagti.. We know, many Kashmiri Pandits were displaced from Kashmir in around 1990/91.. Jagti is one of colonies for them.. Needless to say, that colony is in real bad shape since it was constructed.. No one cares for them..



And way to Nagrota is just on our right.. Yeah.. If you don’t recollect name, you’ll get it by the fact that our army camp suffered military attack in November 2016.. As I was about to return home after completing my first Ladakh Tour, our army killed self proclaimed commander – The infamous Burhan Wani.. Since then we’ve been facing such attacks..

Now I’m leaving for Sonamarg.. G map says it’s journey of around 11 hours.. But from my last year’s experience, I think I could make it.. Last year, Four laning of Jammu Udhampur was half way complete.. Now G map showing it’s complete.. In addition, Modiji just inaugurated longest tunnel in India.. Chenani Nashri tunnel.. Should save me 2 and ½ / 3 hours ride..

This is wonderful.. isn’t this..? This stretch of almost 65 km till Udhampur is great.. It’s part of Kashmir Kanyakumari Highway.. It was NH 1 last year and now its NH 44.. Just beautiful.. This view and road is just awesome..



I am gonna hit my first ever tunnel on this tour.. See mountains far away..? We’ll be shortly ascending there.. Onto Himalayas.. This is engineering marvel that we are riding a four lane highway in mountains..

Ok.. How many trucks we’ve seen lined up.. Here is longest line I’ve ever seen.. this line was around 5 to 6 km long where thousands of truck were lined – don’t know why.? If anyone knows let us know.. I didn’t see that line in any year but this..



This is it.. This is what I’m counting on.. Longest tunnel in India..



30.? Was that speed limit or what? I think they missed “1” before that 30.. Should be 130 na..? When this wasn’t open last year, road via Patnitop took almost 3 hours.. And much energy to get through.. Now.. It’s seamless ride..

Look.. At.. this.. This was built in just four years you say..? Great.. This is literally carved out of mountains.. And I’m entering into mountains.. This is first tunnel in India having transverse ventilation.. Around 9 km in length.. Integrated tunnel control room.. Someone is always watching you here..

Here’s Mystery Rider.. Right here in this shadow.. This shadow is fiercely racing with me.. All these lights, ventilation, escape routes and straight road.. It’s hypnotizing.. Magnificent view..



Whenever you are here, especially notice change in lighting when we enter or exit tunnel. It’s specifically made of certain lumen so whenever we get in or out, change in lighting shouldn’t affect our view.. Like avoid eyes getting closed when we exit tunnel. This road, scenery is awesome.. But still hot here..

Little deep down here na.. But views are splendid.. Don't count destinations. Make every blissful view count.. That’s what Ladakh is all about.. And remember what I said in first episode.. This isn’t a place for vertigos.. Look at this gorge on my left.. Straight down.. If anyone says he’s horrified to see this, he isn’t just lying.. He’s careless..



When here, forget all calculations we make for time and distance on plains.. May be we have travelled Delhi to Jammu, 625 km in 12 hours even after vehicle breakdown.. But from here on all calculations are difficult.. Make 20 kmph and calculate time required.. I’m not kidding with this and those who were here would certainly agree.. Add fatigue, back pain and sit pain.. Jerks will just shake you from bottoms up.. And in my personal experience of four years solo in Himalayas (Three times Ladakh and once Spiti Valley) Never ever plan more than 200 km in a day if you really wanna enjoy..

Never go racing / rallying here.. You never know what’s waiting for you in next turn, next second.. May be we’ve ridden thousands of kilometers without even a tiny scratch, but it’s only one mistake and everything might be past tense.. So.. Why rush.? I’ve seen many bullets racing each other even when they’re double seat or carrying too much of load.. And seriously seen two accidents with my eyes where just a drop resulted in broken wrist and another was.. Better not speak of it.. We are here to enjoy nature and feel it.. Riding is additional adrenaline.. At least that’s what I feel, what do you feel..?

Now shall begin our real ride.. All smooth roads end here, almost.. If you wish to travel this road.. Never.. Never if you’re allergic to dust and smoke.. यहाँ धूल और धुआँ इतना है कि दम घुट जाये.. Huhhhh..



This is Banihal.. Nihal in Persian means greenery.. So banihal means place with eternal greenery.. We have bumper to bumper traffic here.. And this is terrific traffic.. You have to fight for every inch to get forward.. I was seating inside all riding gear just like pakoda in boiling oil.. We can easily notice change in appearance, life style, language of people here.. Two things I noticed are obviously common between us.. Parle G and Amul.. हमारा दूध बिस्कीट कहींभी मिल जाता है..!





Banihal pass is cut through pirpanjal mountain ranges.. Right now I’m in Jawahar Tunnel through PirPanjal Mountain Ranges.. This was someday longest tunnel, built for 150 vehicles in a day.. Now around 10,000 vehicles pass through daily.. Too much humid in here.. You’d clearly notice difference between technology for new tunnel.. Yet this is lifeline to stay connected to Kashmir Valley, especially in winters..

That’s why.. As you read this, one more tunnel between Banihal and Qazigund would be almost complete.. It was supposed to open by 2019, but its delayed and will open by 2020.. Zoji La tunnel should also be opened somewhere in 2021, and then it’ll surpass even Atal Tunnel.. It’ll be 14 km long..



I’m passing through fragile territory right now.. This is Anantnag.. Area around here up to Ganderbal past Shrinagar, is rather unstable in view of recent activities in valley..

I stopped here to check tyre pressure.. Shop owner informed me about heavy stone pelting just 2-3 km ahead.. He said it’s now ok.. Gave me a green.. But also an advice.. Said if you see any stone throwers, don’t run hurriedly.. If they ask you to stop - You stop.. Tell them you’re tourist from Maharashtra.. They’ll do nothing but will ask you to just wait.. Throw stones at whatever they feel that’s their target.. In few moments stone palters will be gone and then you move ahead.. If you run, you paint yourself as their target..

However there was no active stone pelting but I could see very heavy armed forces presence, no one on road.. All shops were closed.. Unspoken tension in air.. Couldn’t dare to start my video cam either.. Road was cleared of stones.. Just some vehicle on my route.. And guess what must be happening only little ahead.. NOTHING.. Routine was on as if nothing serious has happened very close to them.. This was then.. Next year, 2018, when I went again, got four lane bypass for Anantnag and Awantipora.. So one shouldn’t be worried now..

This is superb.. Lush green rice fields and Jhelam river beyond them.. four lane highway again till Srinagar..



I stayed in Srinagar for 3 days last year.. So I’m directly going for Sonamarg via Hajratbal Masjid Road..

This is it.. A hair of Muhammad Paigamber is preserved here..



Dal Lake and I’m in Shikara.. You take Shikara ride in dal lake and ask boatman to take you to some offbeat places.. He would show you not only floating market.. But even floating land and now vacant houses of Kashmiri Pandits..



Floating Market in Dal Lake..



Jama Masjid.. This I made of only wood..



Lal Chowk.. Terrorists banned flag hosting here this year.. Who cares..



Srinagar is famous for flower gardens.. These are some of them..





Fascinating beauty.. Aren’t they..??





Just after leaving Shrinagar I took a pit stop for some time and had cold drink here.. Anyways, I haven’t had food since I left from Jammu.. Forward leaning posture on R15 wouldn’t allow me this luxury – to feed my stomach and ride comfortably.. Still and long distance to be covered..

We are crossing Sind River.. From now on we’ll be riding along her till Baltal.. Look at these views.. That’s real treat for eyes..



It’s about 6.30 / 7 in evening.. I’ve already reservation in Farah’s Home Stay at Gagangir.. It’s exactly beside Bharat Petroleum Pump.. We can get petrol / diesel both here.. Hotels, homestays in Sonamarg are way way costly.. It’s always beter to stay in Shrinagar and start early morning for Sonamarg.. Even after enjoying Sonamarg, you are left with time to ride up to and stay at Kargil.. Of course considering you MUST be visiting Kargil War Memorial.. Look at those snow clad mountains, shining in the sun.. Awesome..



As usual I’m damn tired and will get to you tomorrow morning.. We’ll be heading to Kargil.. Latest Battle field Between Pakistan and us.. Visit Kargil War memorial.. That time, they invaded our home, but now.. We will invade and shoot them right between their eyes.. Till then bye bye.. Keep reading.. It’s just starting..

Re: Day 3 - Jammu to Sonamarg

[MENTION=107450]Mystery Rider[/MENTION] ji
nice update

Re: Day 3 - Jammu to Sonamarg

Thank you..

Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15

Brilliant captures!
Thumbs up!

Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15

If you ain’t fond of reading, no issues.. Just watch my youtube channel (Mystery Rider - The lone ranger) for my solo Ladakh ride on Yamaha R15..!!

Fourth Day = Sonamarg to Kargil




Many of you might have already been to Ladakh.. Many have plans that were ruined by damn COVID-19.. Those who were there, above video will be exact reminder of what we saw with our own eyes.. Those who’re planning this’d be a virtual ride.. And those, who were in Ladakh in second fortnight of June 2016, 2017 and 2018; if you saw a crazy solo rider on white Yamaha R15, that was me..

Today, it’s going to be little tough day, exciting day and a day to feel our hearts with patriotism and much more. We shall be riding today from Sonamarg to Kargil.. Latest war field between we and our notorious neighbor – who never learn even from costly mistakes.. Anyway, we’ve lots of lessons still in our bag to teach.. What say..?

As usual.. This is early morning.. Whenever one is on ride, it’s better to start earliest possible.. For that we must travel very light.. I travel only with a back-pack holding all my camera accessories and miscellaneous items and a tank bag with puncture repair kit, a bundle of rope, first aid kit and clothing.. Done.. Nothing more.. Nada.. So I’ve very little to mount or say nothing as such to mount.. Saves me a hell lot of time for ride and enjoyment which I do fully.. So excuse me but whenever I see riders spending minimum half hour in stuffing their bags like stuffed teddy bear, loading onto bikes, packing with bungee cords and plastic and so on, I just wonder why should one lose precious moments stolen from our otherwise busy schedule..

Anyways.. Nature was always beautiful till here.. Even then it’ll be mesmerizing here onwards..With so many shades of colours.. textures.. environment.. moodiness..

On my right is Sind River.. or Indus.. word originated from “Hindus”.. It shall be with us throughout our journey in Kashmir and Ladakh.. One of longest river in Asia.. And our country name.. India, is Greek and Latin term for “The country of river Indus”..



Today our destination is Kargil..

Don’t mess with Indian Army.. जयहिंद.. This year I can see more army presence than any other year.. May be disruptions in valley has caused it.. Anyhow, army is lifeline here.. Army vehicles pick-up and drop students to Army Schools, Army Hospitals, Search and rescue, Support in any kind of emergencies.. So much to mention.. ask anyone about floods in Kashmir region and they’d say that “No one but only Army rescued them and provided all life support”..



Here I’m in Sonamarg.. “Medow of Gold”, and now going for Thajwas Glacier.. And this is quite a view.. I will be spending 2.30 / 3 hours here.. Feel this, try to absorb this.. These are shades of Sonamarg..











Residences in Sonamarg are unreasonably costly, even homestays.. So better stay in Shrinagar and start early morning for sonamarg.. Sometimes road gives a gentle reminder about“off road riding” waiting for me just ahead in “ZojiLa”.. Hasta La Vista baby..

In 1948 Pakistani supported invaders seized Zoji La.. Indian Forces carried “Operation Bison” with surprise use of army Tanks and re-captured it.. That is still highest altitude tank battle till now in the world..

What Indian army believe is.. Keep your friends close, but your enemies closer.. Of course, so you can keep watch..

Sign boards and safety signs placed by BRO here are so interesting.. That’s also something we should enjoy.. They are fantastic, sarcastic, funny, naughty..



On our way is Baltal and Helipad there.. That’s base camp for Amaranth Yatra.. It’s only a single day’s trail from here.. We still have some trees here.. They’ll soon vanish though and land will be barren, roads will go dirtier..

Now this is ZojiLa.. I had to wait on steep narrow incline just behind me, cause this truck before us was literally fighting every inch to ascend that incline.. If it’d back up anyhow.. I’d nowhere to go..



Down there is road I came through.. थोडा ज्यादाही गहरा हैं ना..? ज्यादा नहीं.. थोडासा.! When we are here.. Be super cool.. No one is chasing us..

Actually, calling it Zoji La Pass is incorrect.. Because La in Ladakhi language itself means Pass.. Trees have gone and terrain got rugged.. But splendid.. This La is strategically important since it connects ladakh region to Kashmir vally.. In terms of altitude, this is around 3,500 meters from sea level.. Zoji La Tunnel is underway and when completed will bypass Chenani-Nashri and Atal Tunnel both.. It’ll be little more than 14 km..

When I was here even in 2018, Google Maps used to show Zoji La incorrectly.. Don’t know how.. But it showed altogether different route.. Now it’s been corrected in satellite view..



This is completely off road man.. And I’m riding an R15 here.. Ha Ha Ha.. Little craziness.. And that’s what we all want.. From my mirrors going up and down, one could get how this road is.. And this is summer.. Best season.. Now imagine how it would be when weather is bad..

अगर आपको उंचाईसे डर लगता है तो ये जगह बिल्कुलभी आपके लिये नहीं हैं..



THIS IS PERFECT PLACE for someone.. Who wants to die of suffocation at this altitude..

After we start descend, there is something good.. Paving also progressed in 2018 from start of ZojiLa.. “Zojila Tunnel” will not only connect Srinagar to Leh even during winter, but it will reduce travel time by almost 3 hours.. Wow.. That’s what needed in Kashmir.. Some infrastructural work..

Still, those who were here before that tunnel opens up, all we can say is this was something one should have enjoyed to say we had some adventure.. We’d better stories to tell about adventure..

This year winter has been really harsh in Kashmir.. We don’t see this much ice at this time of year which I’m facing now.. That great guy is driving Maruti 800 at this altitude.. Locals drive these vehicles easily than we think, they actually rally here..



Comfortable road at last after we are down to Zero Point. Kargil is still 84, says that milestone.. Until Drass I will have good road only in patches.. And after that.. I’ll be riding on high REVs.. No no.. I’ll not be riding fast, actually I’ll be flying slow.. Till then I’ve to control.. Control..

Just look at this.. Mountains.. River.. Clouds.. Sky.. Speechless..even this silence is to be enjoyed.. Nothing but us, nature, silence, one should feel it just by sitting here..



Up ahead is Pandras.. 9/10 kms till here were like hell in 2017.. BRO made this road in 2018.. Don’t know why it took so much time in this plain area.. But that’s condition of almost all BRO projects..

This is me.. Mystery Rider once again in Ladakh..



There is a saying; “Before setting off on revenge, you first dig two graves..” So.. Make up your mind for most treacherous roads here in Ladakh while you plan to be here..

Can see something white on mountain to left..? That’s Tololing hill.. Our army re-captured it on 13^th June 1999.. At my 8.00 o’clock is Tiger Hill.. Re-captured on 4^th July.. and 26^th July.. Operation Vijay became glorious success..



Just ahead is Kargil War Memorial.. Built in memory of brave hearts martyred from 1947.. Especially in Kargil War of 1999..

This very road is ONLY road connecting Srinagar and Leh.. Pakistani soldiers disguised as Kashmiri Militants occupied ridges overviewing this road.. Plan was obviously to disconnect NH 1.. Thus severing connection of Kashmir and Ladakh region..

Local shepherds first reported our Army of Pakistani infiltration.. Till 1^st of June some part of highway beneath us, was in clear line-of-sight by Pakistani Forces and under attack by their Artillery.. We’ll see that part clearly when we’re just 2/3 kms before Kargil City..

We launched attack.. Pakistan had height advantage and well trenched positions so Air force had limited success.. But Howitzer aka Boforce were grand success..

In many vital points, our Army mounted direct frontal ground assaults.. They took heavy toll due to steep ascent to be made on peaks as high as 5,500 meters..

Since any daylight attack was suicidal, all advances were made under cover of darkness, escalating the risk of freezing.. Please account for wind chill factor which took temperature as low as −10 °C to −15 °C.. Combat gear weight is also to be considered.. They had to hide and advance at same time.. Enemy was strategically placed on hilltops.. Making it worst for our soldiers to climb.. And not only this, they had to fight a war after reaching there.. But they continued..

Since tololing hill and tiger hill in near to NH 1, priority was given to capture them.. And on 13^th June Tololing hill was re-captured by our army.. A post named point 4590 on 14^th June.. This battle claimed most casualties in this war.. 11 hour fierce hand-to-hand combat got us Tiger Hill on 4^th July.. Drass on 5^th July.. Batalik up to 11^th July.. And complete victory on 26^thJuly..Which we celebrate as “Vijay Diwas..”











As I told, this highway was under line-of–sight of Pakistani army.. They opened fire even on civilian vehicles.. On my left you’ll see great wall built overnight by our soldiers during Kargil War.. It’s around 1 km long and built to hide vehicle ongoing this highway from their sights.. Pakistani Troops were atop left mountain..



I’m approaching Kargil City in a second.. Have booked hotel here.. Tomorrow is ‘D’ day when we reach Leh.. Keep tuned.. Keep in touch..

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Re: Ladakh Solo on Yamaha R15

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If you ain’t fond of reading, no issues.. Just watch my youtube channel (Mystery Rider - The lone ranger) for my solo Ladakh ride on Yamaha R15..!!

Fifth Day = Kargil to Leh



Many of you might have already been to Ladakh.. Many have plans that were ruined by damn COVID-19.. Those who were there, above video will be exact reminder of what we saw with our own eyes.. Those who’re planning this’d be a virtual ride.. And those, who were in Ladakh in second fortnight of June 2016, 2017 and 2018; if you saw a crazy solo rider on white Yamaha R15, that was me..

Belated Happy Diwali to all..!! I was just cramped up in some busy schedule which was mostly due to oncoming holidays.. Hence it also delayed posting next day ride here.. But now since we’ve started again, today is THE DAY when we’ll reach our first base camp at Leh, Biggest town in Ladakh region..

As usual, I’m leaving earliest possible in morning.. Streets in Kargil are always so busy even this time.. This is main road of such sweet, neat and clean city.. I was staying here only for night at City Guest House, Kargil.. If one is wishing and with a spare day in hand, he even has a chance to go near border and see enemy watching us.. However I’ll be spying on enemy somewhere else, so we’re just gonna ride ahead..



You must’ve heard of “Chadar Trek” on frozen Zanskar River.. If we continue straight, we’ll go to Padum and Zanskar where it begins.. It’s not actually a trek for locals but a short cut to reach to Leh City when everything is frozen.. In winters snow blankets everything into white.. Blanket in local language is Chadar.. Even Zanskar River is frozen and has thick ice layer on it’s water, so thick one could actually walk on it.. Thus a river is turned into a highway in winters for locals, and trek on it is Chadar Trek.. So what we say is adventure, they do it for their living.. However we’ll turn left on the bridge and continue to Leh..

That’s gorgeous Suru river on my right.. Mountains now has changed their mood.. From here on we’ll barely see lush green colour..Just like oasis in desert.. Anyway, Ladakh is also known as cold desert..



That’s Kargil City, and here we’re marching towards Leh.. I’ve been three times here, solo.. Still every time I’m here, It’s new excitement to ride.. Fun to see how first comers are stunned, surprised, riding high speeds, rallying, enjoying.. Visiting Ladakh again and again makes you kind of real peaceful and looking at everything familiar from very different point of view..

I was asked a question many times.. Which is The Best Way to visit Ladakh, From Manali side or from Shrinagar side? Well, even though it’s completely one’s perspective mentally, physically Shrinagar route is advisable.. I every time took the same route and had never had any issues whatsoever.. Not even when heavy stone pelting was going just around my vicinity..

There are certain serious health hazards awaiting from Manali side, and can’t say how much they’d affect one’s health.. In my own case, I was sailing on high altitudes of Khardung La as if it’s normal weather for me.. I’ve also seen people in life or death like critical situations due to AMS on same spot.. I also seen some who didn’t listen to locals, went Khardung La on very next day of arrival and came half-way back, breathing for life..

Now with Atal Tunnel – Rohtang Tunnel bypassing Rohtang Pass – following is approximate altitude in meters for major stops one might look at..

Start -> Manali (around 2,000) -> Atal Tunnel (3,200) / alternatively Rohtang Pass (4,000) -> Jispa (3,300) -> Zing Zing Bar (4,100) -> Barlacha La (4,900) -> Sarchu (4,300) -> Gata Loops (4,200) -> Nakee La (4,700) -> Lachung La (5,050) -> Pang (4,500) -> Moore Plains (4,700) -> Debring (4,900) -> Tanglang La (5,350) -> Upshi (3,400) -> Leh (3,500)

Evidently, one starts at low altitude of Manali to Zing Zing Bar via Atal Tunnel, only in 123 km, altitude doubles.. If you take Rohtang Pass then it rises immediately to double and then descends a bit.. After Zing Zing Bar there are ups and downs, but never below 4,000 meters.. Since atmospheric pressure decreases with altitude increase, Oxygen levels decrease, causing less oxygen to breath.. We ain’t highlanders, our DNA and lungs and hearts are accustomed to near sea-level air pressure.. The climbers adage is “climb high and sleep low.” Ideally acclimatization should be progressive, which one can attain on Shrinagar route. If anyone has breathing issues, better get portable oxygen cans – easily available at any medical store – for pure oxygen intake.. Keeping it handy might save serious effects of AMS, if experienced..

There may be no AMS symptoms for the first 12-24 hours (in this case – from Manali to Sarchu / Zing Zing Bar / your first stop after Manali). Thereafter symptoms develop and usually peak on the second or third day. Symptoms include headache, anorexia, insomnia, and breathlessness. While opting for Manali route, anyone suffering symptoms of acute mountain sickness should immediately stop, and descend at least 500 m. and wait for symptoms to resolve within next 24 hours.. While in commercial expeditions, they try to reach a predefined stage, which is wrong.. While in group, set a distance which is comfortable for slowest member of group..

Believe me, in excitement of riding in ladakh, AMS is most neglected by everyone.. Never ever take it lightly..

This is too much slippery for my sleek tires.. Wanna experience jerks? Here they come.. जोर का झटका धीरेसे लगे.. I just don’t wanna use my face as brake pad..



This is awesome, simply beautiful.. whenever I see this, I feel like I’m seeing them for very first time..



I am crossing cute village of Mulbekh.. Maitreya Buddha Statue, carved in rock and nine meters high is said to be watching this ancient trade route.. Now our national highway.. अगर हम लद्दाख आये, और इन खूबसूरत वादियों को न देखें.. तो हम आयेही क्यूँ..?



Wakha river to our right, which is in this season completely dry.. And those dry, rough mountains with not a single living leaf on them.. Life is certainly so tough here..



Whenever we get good roads, don’t start riding high speeds.. Cause just when we think we’re out of bad roads, they pull us in.. That’s why BRO signboard says..



We’re now inching towards Nimik La.. Truckers really struggle to get up here inch by inch - literally.. But road is butter smooth.. Riding is real fun here..

Me and my bike breathing heavily.. Even though its Fuel Injected.. Power drop is noticeable due to closed loop FI.. In Zoji La I didn’t have any chance to rev up.. But here when roads are smooth, and I know they’ll be for riding high revs, It’s clearly noticeable.. If you’ve a Bullet or any bike with carburetor, reduce your fuel input else it’d run lean..



One better stay at Kargil and try to cover only Kargil to Leh in one day.. This way you’ll be enjoying the ride, views.. In 2018 I went to Leh directly from Sonamarg.. That was like.. whooo.. No.. Don’t do it.. It takes toll on rider..

Oh my.. Just look at that mountain onto the left – their texture, clouds.. Watching it in person is just great.. Cause you FEEL it.. Don’t just watch it..



See those sculptures carved by nature.. amazing.. Even silence is something we must fill our hearts with..



And exactly how beautiful is this..?



I’m now marching towards Fotu La.. That’s highest point of Srinagar Leh Highway.. One more point I just remembered.. Always carry enough water and even reserve water every time.. We don’t know when we’d be stuck owing to natural catastrophe and will need it.. Dehydration accelerates AMS symtoms, so beware..

Here comes Fotu La Top.. It’s about 4,100 meters high from sea level.. We’ve Durdarshan Relay station here, which serves Lamayuru down this la.. Interestingly.. This point is higher than Leh town itself.. Leh is around 3,500 meters..



That white building on the rock is Lamayuru Monastery.. I visited it last year, so I won’t visit it again.. Every Gompa on walls of you will find detailed drawings, prayer wheels, prayer hall, temples and most importantly.. Peace of mind.!! Not inner peace though.. It takes centuries to achieve inner peace..

Lamayuru is one of the oldest and largest gompas in Ladakh.. Built by famous monk-cum-builder Rinchen Zangpo.. Hence name Rinchen is very popular in Ladakh.. He built many gompas in Ladakh and Spiti Valley..











Right before us is famous Moonland.. Similar to lunar terrain.. Those mountains once supported now-drained-off gigantic lake..

With passage of time, erosion from wind and water had created curious patterns all over the slopes.. Some look like castles, some like sand dunes and some like massive cheese with holes in them.. When you’re here.. Take your time to touch it with bare hands, feel it by walking bare footed on it.. Anyways, we ain’t going to Moon in near future, why not experience it when it’s before our eyes..?







Just look at these mountains.. Each has it’s own colour, texture, mood and harshness.. It’s rugged.. but beautiful..



We’ve once again Indus river on our right hand.. Landscape is so marvelous, soothing.. Despite rough terrain..

Right ahead is entrance for Likir Monastery.. It was built in 11th and rebuilt in 18th century.. It houses gold covered Buddha Statue almost 25 ft high.. View from it’s rooftop is breathtaking.. I visited this last year.. So.. I’ll just continue to Leh..









Again funny but true sign board by BRO..


But actually.. This road is so smooth.. I can’t resist myself riding high revs (I never crossed speed limits set here – officially..!! And anyway, there is nothing official about it..)



This beauty is just beyond words..



We are passing through military station at Basgo.. Basgo is also famous for ancient monastery.. Namgyal kings of ladakh built it about in 17th century.. Its mud and brick structure is so stunning.. There were so many movies shot here in Ladakh, way before that idiot film (triplicate idiot film actually).. Song “Dil se re” from movie “Dil Se” was shot in ruins fo Basgo Monastry..

We have here confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers.. The one with muddy water is Zanskar river and green one is Indus river.. We can enjoy white water rafting here or just ride tomorrow (a day reserved for acclimatization) till road allows us..



And this is famous magnetic hill.. park your vehicle in the spot marked on road and see magic.. It seems to go towards incline and not decline.. However there nothing true in this, both actually and by rules of physics.. It’s just mountains around and approach of road which creates such illusion.. But hey, forget all those stupid science lessons and just chill.!! Only science rule I believe is gravity, that too because I can’t take off on my bike..!!



And this is Gurudwara Pathaar Sahib.. Whilst road widening was in progress, no one – not even explosives – could move away this rock here.. It is then believed that the rock here is sikh guru nanak himself..



Welcome to leh..



We have been riding since 5 days and tomorrow is rest day.. Day after tomorrow we shall be riding, via most celebrated “Highest Motorable Road In The World”, Khardung La and ahead in Nubra Valley.. We will also travel on ancient silk route, which no one normally visits..


Till then.. Hasta-la-vista, baby...!!

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Thank you dear.!