Bike O-Ring Chain - Cleaning & Lubrication

[Ganeshan]

I don't know if this has been covered already - I couldn't find any reference to it anywhere on the forum.

I have been using a Scottoiler system to clean and lubricate my chains for the past 15 years (the system can easily be swapped from bike to bike), and it's still going strong!! I wouldn't have anything else.

The system uses engine vacuum to control the flow of oil (about 1 to 2 drops per minute) onto the drive chain. Basically the system includes a small metering reservoir and two piece of tube, one routed to a vacuum point and the other along the frame/swingarm to somewhere near the rear sprocket.

Because lubrication takes place whenever the engine is on, chain wear decreases dramatically, and thus the chain lasts much longer (Scottoiler claim up to 7 times longer). It keeps the rubber o-rings moist so they don't harden and crack that quickly. I find that it keeps the chain very clean as the oil isn't very thick and tends to wash out dirt that gets onto the chain.

Once installed, and adjusted, all that is needed is to fill in the reservoir every 500 to 800 miles (more oil flow needed in dusty or wet environments). The system has really no parts that can wear, so no maintenance.

It is one of the best kit I have had for my bikes. It has paid itself off many times over and has simplified a lot of things, like I no longer need to clean or lubricate my chain with canisters etc.. And as the chain wears considerably less (and so do the sprockets), it doesn't need to be adjusted as often. Overall an excellent and trouble-free system which has a low running cost too (I have used non-scottoiler oils quite successfully).

Here are a few pictures. On this bike the reservoir is behind the radiator, but it can be positioned elsewhere. There's often a vacuum point on the carburettor (used to balance carbs together).

[beastlover]

I don't know if this has been covered already - I couldn't find any reference to it anywhere on the forum.

I have been using a Scottoiler system to clean and lubricate my chains for the past 15 years (the system can easily be swapped from bike to bike), and it's still going strong!! I wouldn't have anything else.

The system uses engine vacuum to control the flow of oil (about 1 to 2 drops per minute) onto the drive chain. Basically the system includes a small metering reservoir and two piece of tube, one routed to a vacuum point and the other along the frame/swingarm to somewhere near the rear sprocket.

Because lubrication takes place whenever the engine is on, chain wear decreases dramatically, and thus the chain lasts much longer (Scottoiler claim up to 7 times longer). It keeps the rubber o-rings moist so they don't harden and crack that quickly. I find that it keeps the chain very clean as the oil isn't very thick and tends to wash out dirt that gets onto the chain.

Once installed, and adjusted, all that is needed is to fill in the reservoir every 500 to 800 miles (more oil flow needed in dusty or wet environments). The system has really no parts that can wear, so no maintenance.

It is one of the best kit I have had for my bikes. It has paid itself off many times over and has simplified a lot of things, like I no longer need to clean or lubricate my chain with canisters etc.. And as the chain wears considerably less (and so do the sprockets), it doesn't need to be adjusted as often. Overall an excellent and trouble-free system which has a low running cost too (I have used non-scottoiler oils quite successfully).

Here are a few pictures. On this bike the reservoir is behind the radiator, but it can be positioned elsewhere. There's often a vacuum point on the carburettor (used to balance carbs together).

thats a really nice way to keep the chain lubricated.. although
theres is something called overlubrication.. ??
i am saying this because..
1. we have seen that once if u lubricate the chain.. u dnt see its going off very easily even after the 500k.. yes except when you are going for longer rides your proposed system is very useful. you only lubricate it because it has gone dirty. so fresh treat for her.
2. once you are in terrains where there is lot of dirt.. lets say it has gone dirty. but since our system continously pumps oil to chain.. its mixing oil with dirt. how about this.. how will u sort out above..
anyways.. i really liked the idea behind it construction.
but how about it being done in india (i believe you are in lithusiana )..
although.. if it serves your purpose.. well nothing better than that..

[ashishkesari]

i cleaned my chain with kerosene oil and then applied TVS chain lube on my p220....i guess its ok to use kerosene for cleaning????

[Ganeshan]

thats a really nice way to keep the chain lubricated.. although
theres is something called overlubrication.. ??
i am saying this because..
1. we have seen that once if u lubricate the chain.. u dnt see its going off very easily even after the 500k.. yes except when you are going for longer rides your proposed system is very useful. you only lubricate it because it has gone dirty. so fresh treat for her.
2. once you are in terrains where there is lot of dirt.. lets say it has gone dirty. but since our system continously pumps oil to chain.. its mixing oil with dirt. how about this.. how will u sort out above..
anyways.. i really liked the idea behind it construction.
but how about it being done in india (i believe you are in lithusiana )..
although.. if it serves your purpose.. well nothing better than that..

A well-adjusted system lubricates the chain just the right amount. I did "over-lubricate" my chain a few times in the past with this system, usually after swapping the system from one bike to the other, or if it was last set up during the rainy season (high flow) and I happen to use it again in summer. But all this is just a matter of adjustment, and it couldn't be simpler - the reservoir cap rotates to regulate the oil flow. When the chain is over-lubricated oil ends up on the wheel rim, spokes, and, if way too much, on the tyre wall. Easy to see and if this is the case, you just reduce the flow and that's it. The idea is to have it set up correctly, go for a few rides and look at the chain, so that just the right amount of oil lubricates it. And, personally, I would rather err on the slightly over-lubricated side.

I also fitted this system on my enduro bike (actually the pictures I posted were taken from a couple of them), and I can guarantee you it sees a fair amount of dirt. I did this because off-road bikes eat chains and sprockets frighteningly fast. It has made a big difference, and from what I can make out, mixing oil with dirt isn't a problem. Among the local off-road riders I'm the only one to have done this so far, and whenever we go and stop somewhere after a ride people often say "wow your chain still looks clean!". After crossing a few muddy fields and rivers, a chain without this system looks like it seriously needs lubrication, however well it was lubricated before the ride. In an off-road environment I go through a full reservoir of oil everyday (about 160 km). There I like the chain to be over-lubricated, a bit of oil on my wheel or knobbly tyres isn't a concern.

Since the chain wears out every time the bike is moving, it seems logical to have it lubricated all the time, whether the ride is short or long.

As you said the idea behind its construction is simply brilliant. I bought mine online and had it shipped to Portugal where I live (Lusitania BTW is the name given to Portugal by the Romans, about 2000 years ago!). The kit came complete with clear instructions and all sorts of brackets and supports to help installation.

[Old Fox]

There are lots of oiling systems available in the developed markets. The Loobman, Hawkeoiler, Cameleon etc etc. Check out the Iron Butt forum and you'll find people swearing by them. And the Scottoiler is apparently a favorite. These are the people who participate in the bi-annual Iron Butt Rally which is about doing about 11000 miles in 10 days. Thats 11 Saddlesore rides back to back.

The use of oiling systems with dirt bikes is not that common but as Ganeshan points out, if you increase the oil flow rate and deliberately over-lubricate the chain, it'll not allow all that amount of dust to settle on it. Also, a lube wet chain will not allow dust to get in-between the link plates that easily. So the oiling system helps there too. The point is to use the oiling system intelligently.

Interestingly, the first generation machinery, including motorcycles, had manual oiling systems even for the engine camshafts. The 'oilier' for steam locomotives would move on the cat-walk girdling the engine topping up the wick-type oilers for the exposed moving parts.

In a nutshell, a constantly lubricated chain anyways makes a lot more sense than one cleaned and lubed at pre-decided intervals.

PS: Chain covers do help increase chain-sprocket life by restricting exposure to dust etc but the dangers of the chain breaking and fouling inside the cover with its resultant wheel lock is a rather steep price for good chain life.

[shrinathrao]

Just wanted to clear my doubt, what happens if i use the bikes used engine oil to lubricate the chain, as i have seen many mechanics drain the engine oils from splendor, passion and other bikes and use the oil to lubricate chains of RTR, karizma, pulsar 150, 180 and 220 and i see those chain dont need lubrication for atleast 500 kms.

Has anyone tried this for R15 or pulsar or karizma and did they found an difference?

[Ayson]

Used engine oil, firstly, has lost most of its original properties; lubrication being one of them, and secondly, it is loaded with tiny metal fragments and debirs from the engine. Using used engine oil would be as good as maybe applying some griding paste to your chain. . . . . . Ok i exaggerated.

This used engine oil is basicaly abrasive. You are trying to remove the abrasive, dust laden oil present in the chain. Its not too bright to replace one contaminated oil with another.

[Omega Man]

here is a interesting link i had bookmarked on O rings and wd 40 use on them PART II WD-40 O-ring exposure effect results - ADVrider

Thanks Puneet, thats an excellent piece of information. I missed your post hence the delayed response.

Just wanted to clear my doubt, what happens if i use the bikes used engine oil to lubricate the chain, as i have seen many mechanics drain the engine oils from splendor, passion and other bikes and use the oil to lubricate chains of RTR, karizma, pulsar 150, 180 and 220 and i see those chain dont need lubrication for atleast 500 kms.

Has anyone tried this for R15 or pulsar or karizma and did they found an difference?

The decision made by a semi-skilled, professionally untrained/uneducated, 3rd party mechanic and an informed decision made by an xBhpian is the difference (No offence to any mechanics)

* Using discarded engine oil on your O-Ring drive chain shows poor disregard for an important component of your bike.

Used engine oil, firstly, has lost most of its original properties; lubrication being one of them, and secondly, it is loaded with tiny metal fragments and debirs from the engine. Using used engine oil would be as good as maybe applying some grinding paste to your chain. . . . . . Ok i exaggerated.

This used engine oil is basicaly abrasive. You are trying to remove the abrasive, dust laden oil present in the chain. Its not too bright to replace one contaminated oil with another.

+1 Ayson

[aargee]

Do these happen due to my enthusiasm for experiments or just me? I landed up buying Motul C2 chain lube road (Black below) & which is genuine one. Any idea how this is different from the old one (Silver+Red)?



Spec & content wise I couldn't find any difference. Any help?

[jude.manutd]

Can anyone tell me for an apache rtr 180 non abs which screws do i need to open so that the whole chain is visible ie,the front sprocket and the rear one.

[Ri$hi]

Today when I visited the Motul dealer came to know about a product which can be used for cleaning as well as a chain lube. Don't know how effective it is. I am looking forward for everyone's valuable input

[Mad Mik]

here is a interesting link i had bookmarked on O rings and wd 40 use on them PART II WD-40 O-ring exposure effect results - ADVrider

First I'd like to say that the above is a great experiment. Good to see people getting out there and experimenting and learning on their own. However I have to mention this.

I find it strange that someone would be testing O rings by their tensile strength, when O rings are used to seal by even pressure around them, Not by pulling them appart.
I find these tests irrelevant and a waste of the guys time.

I use O rings (rubber, nitrile, teflon backup rings behind the O rings) on a daily basis at work for holding pressures (Up to 15k psi) on my pumps, connections and caps. These have been cleaned using diesel, WD40, Brake cleaner, electrical cleaner, industrial grade cleaners, Acids, alkali's etc, Installed into the grooves using oil, grease, nickle never sieze/copperkote, (drill) pipe dope etc.
The drilling fluids, hydrocarbons, water, chemicals and cement slurry's that flow through the connections don't make them fail. Its the nicking, pinching and stretching (by numerous reusing of the O ring, where infact they are designed to be of single time use only, then disposed of) of them that affects them
I've yet to have one fail by stretching them apart........since they are inside a fitting with nothing pulling on them......

A more suitable test would have been to test them using a experiment that would have involved them being used in the manner they were designed.
Use them to seal a connection, apply pressure and see what the baseline pressure rating was, and compare to the others that had been exposed to the various mediums.

Its like using a clay housebrick as a hammer
Sure you can find out what one is able to stand up to impacts but a housebrick is used to support the structure, insulate from heat/cold/wind/rain etc not to drive nails into wood.

Just my 2cents.

[The Mountain]

Do these happen due to my enthusiasm for experiments or just me? I landed up buying Motul C2 chain lube road (Black below) & which is genuine one. Any idea how this is different from the old one (Silver+Red)?



Spec & content wise I couldn't find any difference. Any help?

If the pic is really the one you bought, it's "off-road" lube, not road lube. The difference, presumably, is that off-road lube is quite thin, and flows very easily. It would be quite similar to WD-40 in most ways. Off-road bikes do not use sealed chains. The conditions they run in make whatever-ring chains pointless. Plus, sealed chains have slightly higher friction. It doesn't make a difference on the street, but in a race it can. Additionally, most race chains are used once or twice, and then changed, where your street chain needs to last a long time. Because they don't need to last long, and therefore do not have seals, lube for off-road chains is thin to flow easily into the inner bearings of the chain, flushing out any contaminants and helping prevent rust. When it eventually wears off, you just spray more lube on and keep going.

Road "lube" really acts more as a protective coating for the chain. It's sticky so it won't be flung off the chain at high speed, and is mainly intended to lubricate the seals so they don't rub themselves to bits on the chain sideplates. The downside is, since its sticky, it tends to hold any dust that comes into contact with it, and you have to clean it off before you can put new lube on.

[sarav.sandhu]

Yesterday, while i was a little away, the service guy lubed my bike's new O-Ring chain with the conventional, used up engine oil. Will it cause any deterioration to the o ring chain ?

What steps can i do to prevent the damage, if any.

[Samarth 619]

Yesterday, while i was a little away, the service guy lubed my bike's new O-Ring chain with the conventional, used up engine oil. Will it cause any deterioration to the o ring chain ?

What steps can i do to prevent the damage, if any.

Before it attracts dust and crushes the O-Rings between the links, clean it well with a cloth, etc.
Then, apply a good chain lube/ spray on it. There should be no problems.