Motorcycle Detailing Thread

[sunilyo]

Safe Washing And Drying

Washing is the process of removing loose grime from the exterior surfaces of your car and should normally be done on a weekly or fortnightly basis. In the following guide, find out about the benefits a lambswool wash mitt offers over a traditional yellow sponge, how to use the two bucket method, when to use a microfibre wash mitt, how to wash and rinse exterior surfaces efficiently, how to dry exterior surfaces safely, and the benefits a microfibre drying towel offers over a traditional chamois leather ...

Q. How often should i wash my car?
Washing is the process of removing loosely bonded surface contaminants, such as dust, dirt, bug remains and road salt, from the exterior surfaces of your car. Generally speaking, if your car is used as a daily driver, then washing it once a week should be sufficient to enable you to stay on top of the dirt and grime and keep it looking good most of the time. If you choose to wash your car more frequently than this, you should be aware that you run the risk of accumulating sub-surface paint defects more quickly than normal. This is because the vast majority of common sub-surface paint defects such as swirl marks and fine random scratches are inflicted during the wash process, as a result of dirt and grime being moved around over underlying surfaces. By using appropriate products and techniques this risk can be minimised, but never completely eliminated. Therefore, the frequency at which you wash your car will dictate the frequency at which the bodywork will acquire sub-surface paint defects. We recommend washing your car as little as required to keep it looking good most of the time, and certainly no more than once a week.


The Role of Pre-wash foaming in modern car care
Once a car has acquired a significant film of dirt and grime there is a much greater risk of inflicting sub-surface paint defects during the wash process. This is due to the greater number of contaminants present that may inadvertently be moved around over underlying surfaces as they are removed, and the tendency to scrub the paint more to get it clean. At the simplest level the first thing you can do to minimise this risk is to rinse off as much dirt and grime as possible using a hose or a pressure washer before washing the bodywork by hand. Ten to fifteen minutes spent carefully rinsing off in this way is time well spent, but may not always yield much improvement, particularly if two to three weeks worth of dirt and grime is present and has gone through numerous wetting and drying cycles. In such cases, the use of a pre-wash foaming solution can help tremendously.

The idea behind applying thick clinging foam to your car before washing is simple and the benefits are obvious. If you apply a generous coating of suds to dirty surfaces and allow them to cling in situ for many minutes at a time, the cleaning agents have longer to work and therefore dissolve and suspend a lot more dirt and grime. By the time the foam is eventually rinsed off much of the dirt and grime is simply washed away, leaving relatively clean surfaces behind ready for a careful wash by hand. Clearly, the major benefit here is that the bulk of dirt removal is done before a wash mitt is placed on the car, which greatly reduces the risk of inflicting marring and fine scratches during the hand-washing process.

Applying a thick layer of clinging pre-wash foam using a PA Foam Lance

Once applied the foam should be allowed to dwell for up to five minutes

Rinsing off the foam at pressure leaves the car far cleaner than before

Normal car shampoos can be used to produce foam with a reasonable degree of success, providing that the correct dilution ratio is maintained. However, this can result in a lot of expensive shampoo being used up quite quickly, so numerous manufacturers also offer specialised pre-wash foaming solutions (often referred to as snow foams) with much higher dilution ratios. In our opinion, the best such product currently on the market is Meguiar's Hyper Wash, as it produces thick clinging foam at an amazing dilution rate of just 400:1 (waterroduct). A further key benefit of using Meguiar's Hyper Wash is that it will not strip or otherwise degrade existing sealant or wax protection, unlike some other snow foam style products currently on the market.

Foam production relies on air being drawn into a foaming solution as it passes through an injector head into the main stream of water running through either a foam gun or a foam lance. The higher the pressure of the water, the thicker the resulting foam will be. Accordingly, foam guns that attach to hoses, like the Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun, generate relatively thin, bubbly foam with limited clinging power, while foam lances that attach to pressure washers, like the PA Foam Lance, generate much thicker foam that clings very strongly, allowing more time for the cleaning agents present to dissolve and suspend dirt and grime. Consequently, foam lances tend to offer a lot more cleaning power than foam guns, and we recommend that a foam lance is chosen over a foam gun whenever possible.

In cases where for whatever reason a pressure washer cannot be used, a foam gun is still well worth having as it will remove far more dirt and grime than water alone and can also be used during the subsequent hand-washing process in place of a suds bucket (the idea here is to reapply a thick layer of foam to each panel immediately ahead of wiping it down with a wash mitt, as this ensures maximum lubrication as the mitt glides over the underlying surface). In all cases using warm water will produce thicker and more effective foam with greater cleaning power, to the extent that when using a warm water pressure washer touchless washing becomes a distinct possibility at all times of the year.

Recommended: Meguiar's Hyper Wash

Recommended: PB Foam Lance Kit

Recommended: PB Foam Gun Kit

Recommended methods and products for Handwashing
The most important thing to remember about the wash process is that more often than not you are working on dirty surfaces. Your choice of products and methods is therefore very important, as you want to be able to gently lift away dirt and grime without damaging underlying surfaces or stripping away existing sealant or wax protection. For this reason, we recommend the use of a high quality lambswool wash mitt in place of a traditional sponge, and the use of a mild shampoo in conjunction with the two bucket wash method.

If you examine traditional sponges and think about the washing process, it should become obvious to you that they are poorly suited to the task. This is because they provide no means of lifting particles of dirt safely away from the surfaces being washed. Instead, dirt particles are trapped against the face of the sponge and moved around over underlying surfaces, creating fine scratches that are commonly referred to as swirl marks. The potential for inflicting such damage is greater during the winter months, when coarser particles of grit and road salt tend to accumulate on the exterior surfaces of your car in between washes.

In contrast to sponges, lambswool wash mitts feature a deep pile that enables particles of dirt to be drawn safely away from the surfaces being washed. Moreover, because the pile is fairly loose, particles of dirt can easily be rinsed out. These benefits can be reinforced by using the two bucket method, in which the first bucket is filled with suds and the second with rinse water. The idea behind this method is to load the mitt with suds, wash one panel of the car and then rinse the mitt thoroughly in the second bucket to release any trapped particles of dirt, before reloading the mitt with suds and moving on to the next panel. It is a simple idea, but highly effective all the same.

The only downside of using lambswool wash mitts is that they are fairly delicate and susceptible to damage by harsh use and snagging. For this reason, we recommend switching to a microfibre wash mitt when washing wheels and the insides of wheel arches, as these areas tend to suffer from significant accumulations of gritty particles and also tend to have more potential snags. However, because microfibre mitts have a shorter pile than lambswool mitts, extra care should be taken to rinse them regularly and thoroughly in order to minimise the risk of marking delicate alloy rims. This risk can be further minimised by pre-washing wheels and the insides of wheel arches with a soft tipped wheel cleaning brush.

Moving on, your choice of shampoo is important as it needs to be tough enough to dissolve dirt and grime, but at the same time not so aggressive as to strip or otherwise degrade existing layers of sealant or wax protection. Many shampoos on sale in high street stores are actually quite strong, and thus best avoided. If you wash and protect your car regularly a mild shampoo will suffice, as any dirt and grime will be loosely bonded and fairly easy to remove. Many good quality shampoos also contain natural or synthetic oils that encapsulate particles of dirt, which further reduces the risk of inflicting swirl marks and typically leaves an amazingly slick finish that sheets water very easily and makes drying off less of a chore.

Some modern paint finishes seem to be highly susceptible to marring no matter how carefully they are treated, and drying them off after washing poses two key problems. Firstly, there is always the danger when working outside that fresh airborne contaminants may settle on the car after rinsing off. Wiping the car dry with a microfibre drying towel can then result in these contaminants causing marring as they are trapped by the towel and then drawn across underlying surfaces. Secondly, as paint is dried off, all lubrication is effectively removed, meaning that the friction between the towel and the paint increases. This in itself can be enough to cause marring in some modern paint finishes.

The solution to both problems outlined above is to cut out any wiping of the paint. It is possible to pat dry a car using a microfibre drying towel in only a little more time than that required to wipe it dry. By not wiping, any fresh contaminants are not moved around over the paint, and towel friction is reduced to a minimum. A further option that cuts towel contact out completely is to use an air blower to dry the car off. Dedicated vehicle dryers and domestic leaf blowers work really well in this respect, and this is a method we have adopted into our own wash routines, as we believe it significantly helps to reduce the risk of inflicting defects during the drying process.

Recommended: PB Clear Wash Bucket

Recommended: PB Advanced Wash Kit

Recommended: Metro Vac Air Force Blaster

Step by step guide - How to wash your car safely and effectively
When it actually comes to the washing process, the first thing you should do is rinse off as much loose dirt and grime as possible using a hose or a pressure washer. If you opt for the latter use an RCD safety device, observe a safe working distance and don't be too aggressive with the power setting; high pressure jets can knock sticky balancing weights off alloy rims and, in extreme cases, can also strip paint from sharp edges (around wheel arches for example). It is worthwhile taking the time to thoroughly rinse the wheels and the insides of the wheel arches at this stage, as it makes later work with the microfibre wash mitt easier and less mucky.

After rinsing (and foaming if desired), the next thing you should do is wash all of the exterior surfaces bar the wheels and the insides of the wheel arches using a good quality lambswool wash mitt in conjunction with a mild shampoo and the two bucket wash method. Start with the roof, and then work down, washing the windows, the bonnet, the boot, the upper halves of the sides, the lower halves of the sides and finally the front and rear bumpers and the sills. Rinse the mitt thoroughly after every panel, and don't be stingy with the suds; make up a fresh bucket if necessary. The same goes for the rinse bucket; the rinse water can get dirty very quickly, so keep an eye on it and replace it whenever necessary.

Initial rinsing at pressure removes loose dirt and grime

A lambswool wash mitt should be used to carefully wash the bodywork

Proof that the two bucket method works (and time to change the rinse water!)

When using the wash mitt, try to follow the lines of the car and use only back and forth or side to side motions; circular motions will only make swirl marks more pronounced if you are unlucky enough to inflict any. It is better to wash your car in the shade if you can, so as to prevent the suds from drying out before rinsing off. If this is not possible, you should begin rinsing off sooner, panel by panel on really hot days. When rinsing off, we recommend using a hose with all of the end attachments removed; this encourages the rinse water to sheet off the panels and makes drying off easier.

With the bodywork and the windows now washed, the next thing you should do is swap to the microfibre wash mitt and tackle the wheels. If they are particularly dirty you can scrub them first with a soft tipped wheel cleaning brush. Be particularly generous with the suds and take the time to get into all of the nooks and crannies and remove all of the brake dust. After washing all of the wheels, finish the process by washing the insides of the wheel arches, rinsing your wash mitt regularly. Finally, rinse everything off with the hose, including the bodywork again if it dried off during the intervening period.

Wheels and tyres should be carefully washed with a microfibre wash mitt

Rinsing off with an open ended hose leaves less water to dry off

Pat drying with a microfibre drying towel reduces the risk of marring

The penultimate step in the wash process is to dry all of the exterior surfaces. This is important, because leaving your car to dry off naturally can lead to the formation of unsightly water spots, which can actually damage painted surfaces if not removed. Although you are now working on clean surfaces, you still want to minimise the risk of inflicting swirl marks when drying off. For this reason, we recommend pat drying with a microfibre drying towel instead of a traditional chamois leather. In contrast to traditional chamois leathers, microfibre drying towels are capable of absorbing many times their own weight in water, meaning that you can dry most cars without wringing out once, and are considerably easier to clean and maintain than traditional chamois leathers.

The final step in the washing process is to pack away all of the tools you have used, making sure everything is clean and ready for next use. Firstly, rinse out your buckets and wheel cleaning brushes thoroughly and then leave them to dry out naturally. Secondly, rinse out your wash mitts and drying towel and then wash them all in a washing machine at a low temperature using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners) before allowing them to dry out naturally.



source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

[sunilyo]

Decontaminating Paint - Claying

Over time, it is not unusual for automotive paint finishes to become slightly rough to the touch due to the gradual accumulation of various surface contaminants that are too firmly bonded to be removed by normal washing alone. In this guide, find out how to check if your paint has acquired bonded surface contaminants, how to remove stubborn tar spots and baked on bug splatter, what a clay bar is for, and how to use a clay bar and clay lubricant to remove bonded inorganic contaminants safely and effectively ...

Types of bonded surface contaminant - organic vs inorganic
Over time, it is not unusual for automotive paint finishes to become slightly rough to the touch. Such roughness is caused by the gradual accumulation of surface contaminants that are too firmly bonded to be removed by normal washing alone. To determine whether your paint has acquired firmly bonded surface contaminants you should wash and rinse your car thoroughly and then run your fingertips over the wet panels. Clean paint should feel perfectly smooth (if your fingertips aren't particularly sensitive you can magnify your sense of touch by putting your hand inside a thin cellophane wrapper first). If you can feel rough spots or a gritty texture then unfortunately your paint is affected. Also, in some cases you may even be able to see such contamination upon close inspection, particularly in the case of tar spots. Surface contamination is deposited on cars from a wide variety of sources, but can be neatly divided into two categories based the typical size of the particles and what they are made of.

Surface contamination that is visible to the naked eye typically comprises organic compounds such as tar, honeydew and bug splatter. Tar spots are the most common and irritating organic contaminant, and are acquired all year round from freshly laid bituminous surface treatments on our roads. Honeydew (often mistaken for tree sap) can be a nuisance in the summer months, when it literally rains down from tree canopies as a result of high levels of insect activity. Composed of sugars and other waste products that pass undigested through the bodies of aphids, honeydew becomes harder to remove the longer it is left on paint. Bug splatter is also a common nuisance in the summer months and seemingly welds itself in place on the front end of most vehicles, no matter how slick and well protected the paint is. As such contaminants gradually accumulate on bodywork, not only do the aesthetic qualities of the finish rapidly deteriorate, but so too does the ability of the paint to sheet water properly. Moreover, bug splatter can also cause etching and discolouration of underlying painted surfaces, due to the corrosive effects of the organic acids found in bug remains.

Tar spots are usually easily visible, particularly on lighter coloured cars

An extreme case of honeydew fallout from the tree canopy above

Bug splatter typically welds itself in place and is difficult to remove

Surface contamination that is invisible to the naked eye typically comprises inorganic particulates derived from industrial and commercial activities; industrial fallout, brake dust, railway dust, paint overspray and exhaust soot can all bond to paint both physically (by charge attraction) and chemically (by electrolysis). As such contaminants gradually accumulate on bodywork, surface roughness gradually increases to the point where it can be detected, whilst the reflectivity of the finish and the ability of the paint to sheet water properly gradually diminishes. Furthermore, as such particulates slowly oxidise and corrode, etching and discolouration of underlying painted surfaces can occur. It is worth noting at this point that because inorganic contaminants are mostly delivered through the air and settle out on your car whenever it is parked, it does not matter where you live or where you leave the car; it is susceptible to contamination everywhere and anywhere, and all times of the year too.

Highly magnified image of paint overspray surface contamination

Highly magnified image of industrial fallout surface contamination

Bonded metal filings rusting in situ; visible to the naked eye in this instance

Recommended methods and products for removing contaminants
The safe removal of bonded surface contamination requires special techniques. We have already established that normal washing doesn't remove them. Stronger all purpose exterior cleaners may partially remove some of them when used at maximum strength, but even then would struggle to fully dissolve larger organic particles and would certainly not remove many inorganic particles, as they are largely insoluble. Aggressive polishing would almost certainly remove such contamination, but is a far from ideal solution because bonded contaminants often need to be removed two to three times a year and aggressive polishing should not be done anywhere near as often as this. What is really required then is a method that employs products capable of removing such contaminants without affecting underlying painted surfaces. Fortunately such products exist, and comprise tar removers and detailing clay.


The clay used in detailing clay isn't really clay at all, but a mixture of a soft plastic resin (polybutene) and various grades of abrasive particles. Think of it in this way; the soft plastic resin is effectively an applicator pad, which enables you to move abrasive particles over your paint using consistent force and pressure. Because bonded surface contaminants sit above the surface of the paint, they are subject to greater abrasive forces than the surrounding surfaces when a clay bar is rubbed over them. As a result, they are abraded away and removed by the clay bar. You may be questioning at this point why the abrasives in the clay don't affect the surrounding paint? The answer is they would, if they were allowed to. You have to stop them from doing so, by using a suitable lubricant.

Clay lubricants come in a variety of guises, but most are effectively quick detailing products. These spray on, wipe off products contain lubricating oils (which enable dust and grime to be wiped off exterior surfaces safely without inflicting damage to the underlying surfaces) and are well suited to use with detailing clay. In addition, heavier duty waterless wash products are also ideal in this respect, as they contain an even greater concentration of lubricating oils. If you do not have any of these products, a very rich suds mixture made up using a normal shampoo can sometimes suffice, but do note that sometimes such solutions can partially dissolve detailing clay and make it messy to work with.

At this stage you may be asking why not simply use detailing clay to remove all bonded surface contaminants; why were tar removers mentioned above? The answer is that detailing clay can be used to remove all of the contaminant types mentioned above, but a potential problem arises in that bonded organic contaminants generally comprise much larger particulates than bonded inorganic contaminants, and therefore have greater potential to cause surface marring at the interface between the clay bar and the paint as the clay bar is moved around. Given that bonded organic contaminants are usually highly soluble in paint solvents, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically rather than physically, as dissolving them and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing marring.

It should be noted that surfaces treated with tar removers will still need to be clayed afterwards, as inorganic particulates are not usually soluble, and so are rarely removed by chemical means alone. Thus, often a two stage decontamination process is required to fully clean paint, comprising an initial chemical treatment to safely and effectively remove bonded organic contaminants (tar removers also remove honeydew and bug splatter extremely effectively), followed by a physical treatment with a clay bar to safely and effectively remove bonded inorganic contaminants. The method for using tar removers requires no real explanation as most simply spray on and rinse off, but the use of detailing clay is more complicated, so a step by step guide is therefore provided in the next section of this guide.

Recommended: Auto Finesse Clay

Recommended: Auto Finesse Glide

Recommended: Autosmart Tardis

Step by Step guide - How to clay your pain safely and effectively
When it actually comes to claying your paint the first thing you should do is tear up your clay bar into half a dozen pieces and then check that they are soft enough to work with. This is a bit of a judgement call, but ideally you should be able to mould the pieces into balls and be able to roll them up into sausage shapes with relatively little effort; the consistency of blue-tack is what you are aiming for. If your pieces of clay feel harder than this you should place them in a tub of warm water for 5 minutes and then try it again (obviously it is okay to get clay wet). In the summer months, clay bars are usually okay to use straight out of the wrapper, but in the winter months they nearly always need to go into warm water for 5 minutes before first use. Using clay pieces that are too hard is the number one reason why many people have a bad experience with clay and end up damaging their paint.

Once soft enough to work with, take one piece of your clay and flatten it into an easy to hold patty shape. The next step is to work from the top of your car down, panel by panel. Working on an area of no more than 2 ft x 2 ft at a time, spray the work area thoroughly with the lubricant and then using light pressure and pace rub the clay backwards and forwards across the surface of the panel, following the lines of the car. Using insufficient lubricant is the second reason why many people have a bad experience with clay and end up damaging their paint; be generous with it, it doesn't matter if it runs everywhere, it won't do anything any harm.

If the paint is relatively clean the clay will glide across it very easily; if it is heavily contaminated the clay will be much harder to move around. Usually, between two to three dozen passes will be enough to clean the work area, but in time you will become able to judge whether all of the contaminants have been removed by the way the clay moves over the surface. Another way to tell is to run your fingertips over the panel when you think you are done; it should be perfectly smooth. If it isn't, repeat the process. Once the work area is clean, wipe up any residual lubricant using a microfibre drying towel and then move on to the next area or panel. If conditions are cold, switch clay pieces after each panel and keep your spare pieces sat in a tub of warm water.

Always be very generous with the lubricant when using a clay bar

Allow the clay to glide freely using only fingertip pressure to hold it in place

As your progress around the car the clay pieces will gradually discolour

As you progress, remould and reshape your clay after every panel. This ensures that the face of the clay in contact with the paint remains relatively clean. If after doing the first area you realise you are working on a heavily contaminated surface, remould the clay more frequently. As your confidence grows, you will find that it is often easier to work on really stubborn areas using a thinner piece of clay and more pressure, but don't rush this; get some experience first, as marring can be caused if too much pressure is used. The final golden rule for using clay safely and effectively is always to throw it away if you accidentally drop it on the floor. Continuing to use it after doing so is clearly going to be a recipe for disaster and major damage.

The final step in the cleaning process is to pack away all of the tools you have used, making sure everything is clean and ready for next use. Check the condition of your clay pieces; if they are totally soiled discard them, but if they are only partially soiled then place them in a zip lock freezer bag and save them for future use on your wheels or your windows (we recommend that you always use a brand new clay bar every time you clay your paint). Finally, wash any towels you have used in a washing machine at a low temperature using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners) before allowing them to dry out naturally.

source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

[sunilyo]

What Does Polishing Do?

Polishing is a broad term for a range of processes designed to either remove or mask sub-surface paint defects and greatly enhance surface gloss in readiness for sealant or wax protection. In this guide, find out about what polishing does and why it is the secret to achieving an amazing finish, how to assess the condition of automotive paint, what the differences are between compounds, polishes, glazes and chemical paint cleaners, how to polish your paint effectively by hand, and how to polish your paint safely by machine ...


Polishing - The most misunderstood concept in modern car care?
Preparation, preparation, preparation... is the key to achieving amazing car care results. No matter how good your fancy wax is, or how many coats of it you apply, you will not achieve a perfect finish unless you spend time preparing your paint properly. Proper preparation involves two key steps. In the first, firmly bonded surface contaminants are removed using tar removers and detailing clay, to leave painted surfaces feeling perfectly smooth. In the second, sub-surface defects sitting below the paint surface are removed by polishing, which is a broad term for a range of processes that remove or mask paint defects and enhance surface gloss in preparation for the addition of protection.

The polishing step is often skipped or misquoted by many car care enthusiasts (in the latter case we mean that many people often say they have polished their car as a catch all term for whatever they have done to it). This may be because they do not fully understand what polishing does, or because they are not confident enough to try it, or because they believe it requires equipment that they do not have. As a result, many enthusiasts are left dissatisfied with the appearance of their paint. In this guide, we will attempt to shed some light on the subject of polishing by (i) illustrating common sub-surface paint defects, (ii) describing the different types of polish currently available on the market, (iii) demonstrating how to polish paint by hand and (iv) demonstrating how to polish paint by machine.

What do we mean by sub-surface defects? Sub-surface paint defects are any forms of damage that are cut into the uppermost layer of paint on your car, and include marring, swirl marks, scratches, stone chips, water spots and acid etching caused by bird droppings and bug remains. By far the most common form of sub-surface defect is stone chips, particularly on the front ends of cars. However, many paint finishes also suffer from swirl marks and etching, and scratches are almost guaranteed if you park in supermarket car parks on a regular basis. Another less common form of defect is buffer trails or holograms, which are lines of swirl marks inflicted by poor machine polishing attempts. A few of the more common forms of defects are shown in the images below.

Serious swirl marks really stand out on dark coloured paints

Water spotting and swirl marks characterise this neglected paint finish

Serious buffer trails and stone chips are blighting the front end of this BMW

Stone chips and scratches are obvious types of defect whose cause is clear, but what about swirl marks, water spots and etching? What are they and how are they caused? Swirl marks are circular patterns of fine scratches that resemble the form of cobwebs (hence why they are sometimes referred to as cobwebbing). They are nearly always the result of poor washing technique and are virtually guaranteed to be inflicted if you use automatic car washes (those rotating bristles aren't as soft and gentle as they look). The other classic cause of swirl marks are traditional sponges, as they provide no means of lifting particles of dirt safely away from painted surfaces when they are being washed. Instead, particles of dirt and grime are held on the face of the sponge and moved around over the underlying surfaces, creating fine scratches.

A popular misconception is that because swirl marks always appear in circular patterns, they must therefore have been caused by scrubbing the paint in a circular fashion. This is not true. The reason why swirl marks appear to be circular when viewed in the sun, or under any other form of point source lighting for that matter, is that the sharp edges of the fine scratches present in the paint are catching and reflecting light radiated outward in all directions from a single central point. If you look at the same surface under a highly diffuse source of lighting, you will actually discover that the fine scratches are running randomly in all directions; they just appear to be circular when viewed under any form of point source lighting for the reason given above.

Water spots may form on painted surfaces when hard tap water is used to rinse off after washing and is then left to dry off naturally. The spots themselves comprise calcium carbonate, or limescale as it is more commonly known, and other evaporative salts. If such spots are left on painted surfaces for any significant length of time, they can harden to the point where they become very difficult to remove, even by machine. In extreme cases, such deposits can attack underlying surfaces, causing etching. Etching refers to chemical erosion of the uppermost layer of paint (more often than not a clearcoat), and is also caused by the corrosive effects of strong organic acids in bird droppings and bug remains. Such contaminants should always be removed as quickly as possible in order to lower the risk of etching occurring.

Can all sub-surface defects be corrected by polishing? Sadly, the answer is no. Critical to this issue is the depth of the defect in relation to the paint system. Most modern paint systems are made up of three layers; a basecoat of primer, then a layer of flat colour and finally a topcoat of clear lacquer, commonly referred to as the clearcoat. The clearcoat on many modern cars is often twice as thick as the underlying colour layer and is designed to enhance the appearance of the finish as well provide environmental protection. Most sub-surface defects usually only affect the clearcoat and can often be fully corrected by polishing. However, if the defect has penetrated the deeply into the clearcoat or, even worse, exposed the colour layer then polishing will not help; in these cases your only option is a trip to the bodyshop for a partial respray. In our experience, most stone chip damage falls into this latter category. A good test of whether a defect can be corrected by polishing is the fingernail test; if you run your fingernail over a defect and it catches, even slightly, the chances are it is too deep to be corrected by polishing alone.

How can defects be corrected? Defects in the clearcoat can be corrected in one of two ways. Firstly, you can lower the level of the clearcoat in the vicinity of the defect by aggressive polishing until the defect is no longer visible. In general, it is safe to remove up to 25% of the thickness of the clearcoat over the lifetime of the car; anymore and you risk paint system failure. The benefit of this technique is that the defect is permanently removed, but the downside is that such action can compromise the integrity of the clearcoat, particularly if undertaken on a regular basis. The second option is to lessen the severity of the defect by gentle polishing and then try to hide or mask the remainder of it before applying sealant or wax protection. This is undoubtedly a safer option, but the downside is that the correction is only temporary; whatever you use to fill the defect will eventually be eroded, making it visible again.

In addition to the choices given above, you also have the option to work by either hand or machine. Polishing by hand is not a waste of time, although it is fair to say that it is hard work and the results will be limited to some extent. If you have any defects worse than minor swirl marks you will be hard pushed to remove them working by hand; the best you can hope to do is lessen their severity and then consider trying to mask them prior to applying protection. Machine polishing opens up greater possibilities, both good and bad. Whilst it becomes possible to fully correct even quite serious sub-surface paint defects, it equally becomes possible to remove too much of your clearcoat in a short space of time. If you go down the road of machine polishing, do your homework, follow the advice laid out below and in our supplementary guide entitled 'What polish should I use?', and set aside a reasonable amount of time for practice in order to gain experience.

At this stage of our discussion it is also important that we raise the issue of paint hardness as a critical factor in the safe polishing equation. Quite amazingly, paint hardness varies significantly between different makes of car, and also in some cases between different ages of the same make and model of car. The reasons why this is so are quite involved and the implications for choosing an appropriate polish for the task in hand are significant, so for these reasons we have written an additional guide entitled 'What polish should I use?' covering these two topics in detail. However, suffice to say for now that it is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing because if it is not, then completely inappropriate products may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective.

Now we can start to see why some people are daunted by polishing. Not only can we tackle defects in different ways, but we also have to take into account how the material that we are polishing can vary in terms of its hardness characteristics. If this level of complexity wasn't already bad enough, we now have to add in a third factor; that of product selection. It is no surprise that many car care enthusiasts are confused by the polishing process, for there are literally dozens of different polishes available on the market, all named and marketed in different ways. However, when you look past the choice and the labels, four main categories of polish appear, and these categories are the key to really understanding polishing, as they unify all of the other options outlined above. For this reason, in the next section we will explore these four categories of polish in more detail before then moving on to look at polishing techniques in more detail.


What are compounds, Polishes, Glazes and chemical paint cleaners

Cutting compounds are the most aggressive type of polishes on the market, and are used to correct major paint defects such as severe swirl marks and deep scratches, and restore dull, neglected paint back to good condition. Cutting compounds work by physical abrasion, and should be thought of as liquid sandpaper. Many modern cutting compounds comprise fine uniformly sized abrasive particles that break down progressively during the polishing process; as a result, such abrasives are usually referred to as diminishing abrasives). This contrasts with traditional polishing compounds, in which the abrasives did not break down at all during the polishing process, and which left surface hazing that required further polishing steps with increasingly finer abrasives until a high gloss finish was restored. The benefit of modern abrasive technology is that it is now often possible to go from compounding to applying protection without the need for an intervening polishing step with a finer finishing polish. In cases where a finer final polishing step is still required (often on darker coloured cars), the amount of additional polishing required is significantly reduced, saving time and effort.

A few important points should be noted about the use of cutting compounds. Firstly, these products are designed to be used with machine polishers, and generally should not be applied by hand. This is because a very high work rate is required to breakdown the abrasive particles, and if they are not worked hard enough then micromarring will occur, which is the technical term for fresh sub-surface defects inflicted during the polishing process as unbroken down abrasive particles are continually moved on the paint, leaving a faint pattern of very tightly defined swirl marks. Secondly, cutting compounds are aggressive, particularly when used with cutting pads, and will remove paint more quickly than you might expect, meaning that they need to be treated and used with respect. Thirdly, compounding should not be viewed lightly, and can only be done a certain number of times before the integrity of the clearcoat is permanently compromised. We therefore strongly recommend that you always consider your options carefully before resorting to heavy compounding.

The next discernible group of products on the market are polishes, which vary in grade from medium abrasives through to light abrasives. Like cutting compounds, most of the products in this category comprise uniformly sized diminishing abrasives, although in this case the average particle size is much smaller and often quoted as being ultra-fine or micro-fine. In contrast to cutting compounds, the much finer abrasive particles used in polishes require less work in order to breakdown, meaning that they can be applied either by hand or machine (although by machine is easier and gives better results). The purpose of polishes is to permanently remove less serious paint defects, such as minor swirl marks, and create smooth, high gloss, highly reflective surfaces in readiness for the addition of sealant or wax protection. It is fine finishing polishes that are the secret to creating jaw dropping car care results, as it is during the final stages of the polishing process that the paint surface is burnished to its maximum extent.

A few important points should be noted about the use of polishes. Firstly, some polishes currently on the market contain a small quantity of fillers, which help to mask any remaining defects prior to the application of sealant or wax protection. Although this might initially strike you as a good thing, the downside is that once such fillers are eroded some of the remaining defects will reappear. For every polish with fillers there is one without, so always do your homework and pick which type suits you best. Our preference is to always work with finishing polishes that contain no fillers, meaning that the true level of paint correction can be easily assessed. Secondly, when working by hand it is beneficial to use the least abrasive product possible to get the job done. This is because polishing by hand is hard work, and much less effort is required to breakdown finer abrasives. In addition, when working by hand it is possible to inflict micromarring when using medium abrasives, as you may not be able to breakdown the abrasive particles fully. We recommend starting with a light abrasive and only moving onto medium abrasives if absolutely necessary.

Glazes are a seemingly misunderstood category of polishing products, perhaps because of confusion caused by the naming of certain products. In the true sense of the word, a glaze is a pure polish that does not contain any abrasives or cleaning agents. Glazes are designed to improve the brilliance and clarity of painted surfaces, and mask or visually reduce the extent of any remaining imperfections. In order to do this, glazes typically comprise gloss enhancing oils and kaolin (China Clay), which fills and hides minor sub-surface defects very effectively. Somewhat confusingly, some glazes only contain gloss enhancing oils, meaning that they do not have any masking abilities, and some products that are called glazes actually include fine abrasive particles, meaning that they are not glazes in the true sense of the word. We therefore recommend that you read product descriptions carefully before choosing an appropriate glaze for the task in hand.

A few important points should be noted about the use of glazes. Firstly, glazes are underused in the UK. In our opinion, it is far better to apply a glaze on a regular basis and hide any defects rather than polish your paint with abrasive products on a regular basis. We only tend to polish our own cars with abrasive polishes once every one to two years, and in the intervening period we use glazes to keep them looking good. Our reasoning for this is very simple; every time you use an abrasive polish you remove a further fraction of your clearcoat. Do this too often and you risk compromising the long-term integrity of your clearcoat. Keeping daily drivers looking good is hard, but glazes offer a highly convenient solution that avoids the risk of ever over polishing your paint. Secondly, once a glaze is applied you should apply sealant or wax protection immediately, in order to seal in the fillers. If you fail to do this, the fillers and gloss enhancing oils will be washed off the next time it rains or when you next wash your car, negating the benefits of applying it in the first place.

The final discernible group of polishing products on the market are chemical paint cleaners, which blur the line between polishes and last step products as they typically polish and lay down sealant or wax protection in a single step. All of the products in this category utilise solvent-based cleaning agents instead of abrasive particles, meaning that they have limited polishing powers but excellent cleaning abilities. However, some newer products in this category also utilise abrasive particles for the polishing process, meaning that more serious defects are sometimes able to be corrected. In spite of their limited polishing power, such products are very useful and typically brighten painted surfaces up considerably as they draw out dirt seated dirt and grime from within the uppermost few microns of the clearcoat. These so called one step style products are also great time savers, and perfect for enthusiasts who want to clean their paint whilst simultaneously adding protection.

A few important points should be noted about the use of chemical paint cleaners. Firstly, they must not be used over glazes, because their solvent-based cleaning agents will strip away oils and fillers, cancelling out the benefits of applying the glaze in the first place. Secondly, such products typically lay down a layer of sealant or wax protection and care should subsequently be taken to ensure that if a further protective product is used that it is compatible with this layer, as sealants should not be layered over waxes. The golden rule is that if the chemical paint cleaner lays down a layer of wax then only a wax-based last step product should be applied on top. However, if the chemical paint cleaner lays down a layer of sealant, then you can generally apply any type of last step product on top. If you are ever unsure about what can and can't be layered in terms of chemical paint cleaners and last step products, please contact us and we will be happy to advise you accordingly.




Step by step guide - How to polish your paint safely and effectively by hand
Now that we have illustrated common forms of sub-surface defects and described the various types of polishing products available on the market, we should be able to determine what can and can't be achieved using different polishing methods. Let's start with hand polishing, as this is the only option open to car care enthusiasts who for whatever reason do not own a machine polisher. As mentioned earlier on, polishing by hand is not a waste of time, although it is fair to say that it is hard work and the results that can be achieved are limited in comparison to those that can be achieved when using a machine. If you have any defects worse than minor swirl marks you will not remove them working by hand; the best you can hope to do is lessen their severity and then consider masking them prior to applying sealant or wax protection. Based on this, and the fact that polishing compounds should not be applied by hand, we can see that our attention should be focussed on correcting or masking minor defects and products falling into the polish, glaze and chemical paint cleaner categories.

In order to permanently remove minor swirl marks by hand, we recommend that you first try using a light abrasive polish (the exact choice should be made with due consideration given to the hardness of the paint being polished; this topic is covered in detail in our guide entitled "What polish should I use?"). If after several applications some of the marks still persist, you can then move on to trying a medium abrasive polish. If you do this, you must work the area well, in order to help the abrasives to breakdown. After several applications, we recommend finishing off with another application of a light abrasive polish, in order to remove any marring and restore a perfect finish in readiness for sealant or wax protection. If you would rather try and hide defects instead of removing them, we recommend that you use a glaze containing fillers. Such products will also enhance the glossiness of your paint in readiness for protection. If your paint is free of swirl marks but dull and lifeless, we recommend that you use a chemical paint cleaner to deep clean the paint and lay down an initial layer of sealant or wax protection.

When it actually comes to polishing by hand, the first thing you should do is ensure that the paint is perfectly clean and dry; wash your car first and then decontaminate it if any surface contamination is evident. We recommend that you apply polishes by hand using either a good quality foam applicator pad or a microfibre applicator pad. The former tends to be better for applying abrasive polishes, as foam typically affords more bite, whereas the latter is better employed when gently working in glazes or chemical paint cleaners. Whichever you use, always remember to use a fresh pad for each product; you should never mix products on the same pad.

A common myth about polishing by hand is that you should only work back and forth and side to side, rather than in circles; it actually makes no difference as long as you allow sufficient time for the abrasives to breakdown. A good indication of this is a change in the appearance of the polish; many appear to become more transparent when they have been properly worked. We recommend that you actually try to work in all directions wherever possible, because this will help to ensure that the edges of defects are rounded off evenly. In all cases, the final film of polish residue should be buffed off carefully using a plush microfibre towel.

Our challenge for today; minor swirl marks in the bonnet of a Subaru Impreza

Such defects should be tackled using a good quality medium abrasive polish

Only a few drops of polish are required to effectively work a 2 ft x 2 ft area

The polish should be worked in firmly and evenly in all directions

After a minute or two the residue will start to turn clear as the abrasives breakdown

The result; the minor swirls are gone, but some deeper random scratches remain

Step by step guide - How to polish your paint safely and effectively by machine
Polishing by machine opens up more possibilities in comparison to polishing by hand, as products can be worked much harder and for much longer with ease. For example, many popular dual action machine polishers have a maximum working speed of approximately 6000 orbits per minute. It is impossible for a human being to replicate this work rate; just imagine trying to polish a panel in a circular motion 6000 times a minute for 5 minutes or more, all the time applying constant pressure! Because the work rate is also selectable, machine polishers can be used to safely tackle all forms of paint defects, ranging from minor swirl marks to very deep scratches. The only proviso is that the clearcoat must be intact before starting, and must not be reduced to less than 75% of its original thickness as a result of polishing. A further benefit of polishing by machine at high work rates is that painted surfaces can be burnished to an exceptionally high lustre prior to the application of sealant or wax protection; the same quality of finish is very hard to achieve when working by hand.

Although machine polishing offers many advantages over working by hand, it also adds complexity to the polishing process. This is because additional choices have to be made with regard to machine type and pad selection. These choices are critical, because if you get them wrong it is very easy to damage your paint; machine polishers can remove paint surprisingly quickly if not used correctly. Let's start with the choice of machine type. Machine polishers fall into one of two camps; rotary or dual action. Rotary polishing machines are usually the choice of professional detailers. As the name suggests, the polishing head rotates evenly around a fixed point at speeds of up to 2500 revolutions per minute. This circular action creates a lot of friction that can be used to great advantage when correcting major paint defects. However, the downside of this is that is it also very easy to inflict damage in the form of burn marks, buffer trails and excessive paint removal. Mastering the art of rotary polishing takes a lot of practice and for this reason we do not recommend it unless you seek professional training first.

Dual action machine polishers work very differently to rotary polishers, in that the polishing head oscillates randomly about a fixed point as the polishing head spins (hence the term dual action). What this means is that friction is vastly reduced at any given point of contact, limiting the effective work rate and greatly reducing the risk of burning the paint or removing too much of the clearcoat. Because of this, dual action machine polishers are ideal for enthusiasts who want to be able to safely correct their paint without the fear of inflicting further damage. A common myth is that dual action polishers are much less effective than rotary polishers. Whilst it is true that extremely serious paint defects can often only be fully corrected by rotary polishing, it is also true that dual action polishing can usually correct all but the most serious of defects on most paint types. The major difference is the time taken to perform the correction; a job that might take under an hour with a rotary polisher may take several hours or more with a dual action polisher due to the lower effective work rate, but in most cases the end result will be similar. Now we can see why it pays the professional detailer to master the art of rotary polishing, and why dual action polishing is the safe alternative for car care enthusiasts.

Pad selection is another critical choice when polishing by machine. All pads designed for use with dual action machine polishers are made from varying grades of high quality flexible polyurethane foam. The firmness of the foam dictates its suitability for different polishing tasks (compounding, polishing, glazing) and is usually colour coded to make recognition easier, although manufacturers rarely use the same colour schemes, so always read product descriptions carefully. Compounding pads are made from the firmest foams and are usually non-reticulated, which means that the foam was not thermally expanded during manufacture and therefore remains very firm and dense. This allows such pads to cut into the surface of the paint quite easily, and they should therefore be used with care. Polishing pads are made from foams of intermediate firmness and are usually reticulated, meaning they are more flexible and adaptable than compounding pads. Such pads have a very slight cutting action that allows them to correct minor defects without removing too much paint. Glazing pads are made from much softer foams and are always fully reticulated. Such pads have no cutting action but are capable of burnishing paint to an exceptionally high lustre. Even softer foams are now available for applying liquid sealants and waxes too.

In addition to the firmness of the foam, pad designs also vary in size and shape, ranging from small, flat pads to large, variably contoured pads. Small spot pads varying from 80 mm to 100 mm in size are designed to be used with 75-90 mm backing plates, and serve two main purposes. Firstly, they allow access to awkward areas, such as around grills and wing mirrors. Secondly, they allow specific defects, such as scratches, to be worked harder, as their size means that all of the polishing effort is focused on a smaller area. As an additional benefit, their size also means that less surrounding paint is affected during the process of scratch removal. Larger pads typically varying in size from 135 mm to 165 mm are designed to be used with 125 mm backing plates, and are ideal for general polishing tasks and working on larger panels. In the past, pads were always flat, but recent advances in design and technology have resulted in the release of shaped pads onto the market, which are sometimes easier to control. The most advanced pads currently available feature variable contour and constant pressure technologies, which provide greater flexibility in the form of multiple polishing faces and additional safety in the form of foam layers that help to keep the polisher level during use.

Now that we have examined all of the choices surrounding machine polishing, we should be able to determine safe approaches to defect correction. In all cases, the first thing you should do is ensure that your paint is spotlessly clean and dry; wash your car first and then decontaminate it if surface contamination is evident. In order to correct serious paint defects, such as severe swirl marks and acid etching, we recommend that you first try using a polishing pad in conjunction with a medium abrasive polish (the exact choice should be made with due consideration given to the hardness of the paint being polished; this topic is covered in detail in our guide entitled "What polish should I use?"). This combination can be worked hard at high speed without fear of removing too much of the clearcoat. If after several applications the defects still persist, you may want to consider swapping over to a cutting pad and a heavier polishing compound. However, such action should not be taken lightly and ideally only if you are experienced at machine polishing or have sought advice from an experienced person first. If you decide to proceed, always work in a well lit area, check your progress after every attempt, and keep the working speed below 5000 orbits per minute.

Once you have removed the defects, check the quality of the finish. If you can see any marring you will need to conduct another polishing step, this time using a polishing pad in conjunction with a finishing polish. We recommend that the same combination is used to tackle less severe paint defects such as minor swirl marks and fine scratches. If after several applications the defects still persist, you can then try a medium abrasive polish (applied using a fresh polishing pad; you should never mix products on the same pad). The pattern you should see emerging here is very simple; always use the least aggressive product you can to get the job done, and always match your choice of pad to the task in hand. The process becomes even more straightforward if your aim is to simply mask any remaining defects or burnish the finish in preparation for sealant or wax protection; simply use a glazing pad to apply a suitable choice of glaze.

When it comes to the actual polishing process, the technique is similar whether working large areas or specific defects. In the case of the former, the first thing you should do is mask off all trims using low tack masking tape. This is because it is hard to avoid running onto trims when using large pads, and failure to cover them often results in staining that is subsequently time consuming to remove. The second task is to choose a suitable pad and product combination for the task in hand. Then you should fit the backing plate to your polisher, press the pad in place (making sure you centre it on the backing plate) and connect the electricity supply. We recommend using an RCD safety device and an extension cable, so as to allow all panels to be easily and safely reached. Now you are ready to start polishing. Before you do, you should prime the pad; this means adding a little lubricant to the pad, so that dry buffing is avoided before the polish has time to spread. The easiest way to prime a pad is to mist it once with a quick detailer. The next thing to do is apply three to four drops of product to the pad; this is more than sufficient in most cases.

With the pad primed and loaded with polish, the next thing you should do before switching your machine on is spread the product across the work area by pressing it repeatedly against the panel; this subsequently helps to ensure that all parts of the work area are evenly polished. Try to work 2 ft x 2 ft sections at a time, starting on a panel clearly featuring defects you want to correct (this allows you to quickly determine if your choice of pad and product is going to achieve the desired result). With the pad held against the paint, you can now switch the machine on. We recommend that you read the instructions supplied with the machine before you first use it, paying particular attention to the section on safe working practices. When you start polishing, you should make an initial pass over the whole work area at a low speed setting (2-3 on the dial of most dual action machine polishers) in order to allow the product to spread out evenly across the pad and the panel.

Time to tackle the deeper scratches left in the bonnet of this Subaru Impreza

Only a few drops of a medium abrasive polish are required per 2 ft x 2 ft area

The polish should be dabbed onto the panel and then spread at low speed

After completing this initial pass at a coverage rate of 4 - 6 inches per second, you should turn the speed up (4-5 on the dial of most dual action polishers) and then move systematically across the panel, applying light to moderate downward pressure. Slow, overlapping passes are ideal; there is absolutely no need to move the machine rapidly backwards and forwards or side to side. Different products need different amounts of work before they are ready to be removed, and knowing when this is the case only comes with practice (although a good rule of thumb is that most allow you to go over a 2 ft x 2 ft work area at least three dozen times before they are ready to be buffed off). A good indication is a change in the appearance of the polish residue; many appear to become transparent when they have been properly worked and broken down. You should always stop the machine with the pad held against the paint. Many product residues are a little bit stiff, and their removal often necessitates firm but careful buffing with a microfibre towel. Plush towels with a short nap are ideal for this, as they are kind to the finish yet have sufficient bite to lift polish residues with ease. Once the residue is removed you should inspect the panel and repeat the process if defects still persist.

The polish should be worked methodically in an overlapping pattern at high speed

After a few dozen passes the polish will start to turn clear as the abrasives breakdown

The result; complete removal of the scratches, leaving a perfect high gloss finish

When polishing out specific defects, such as serious scratches, the technique is essentially the same, but the choice of pad will differ. In the following example, we will demonstrate how we removed a nasty scratch that appeared on the rear quarter panel of our daily driver after we had left it parked in a supermarket car park for a few hours. To remove a specific defect like a deep scratch, it is better to use a spot pad, as they concentrate the polishing effort and affect less surrounding paint. In this case the scratch wasn't deep enough to catch a fingernail, so we were confident that we could safely remove it by lowering the level of the surrounding clearcoat. After setting the machine up and fitting a smaller sized backing plate, we primed the pad with a shot of quick detailing spray and then loaded it with a medium abrasive polish. We then spread the polish evenly over the work area by pressing the pad against the panel repeatedly.

This scratch came free with our shopping one week at our local supermarket

Polishing pads should be primed before use with a quick mist of quick detailer

A little bit more polish than usual is used when focusing on deep localised defects

Now ready to start polishing, we held the pad against the paint and turned the machine on, using a low speed setting (2 on the dial). We moved the pad over the work area applying only light pressure for a minute or so, in order to allow the product to spread out evenly across the pad and the work area. Then we increased the speed (4-5 on the dial) and began to move systematically back and forth across the work area, applying moderate pressure. After a few minutes the product started to turn transparent, so we switched the unit off with the pad held against the paint and then buffed off the residue with a plush microfibre towel. Whilst this first application greatly lessened the severity of the scratch, it was still clearly visible. We then repeated the process, this time applying firm pressure and using the machine at high speed (5 on the dial). After the product once again began to turn clear, we turned the machine off and buffed off the residue. A close inspection revealed that only the faintest trace of the scratch remained, so instead of repeating the process we decided to apply a glaze and then apply multiple layers of sealant protection.

The polish should be dabbed on and then initially spread at low speed

Once spread, the polish should be worked at high speed with moderate pressure

After two attempts, a coat of glaze and a top coat of sealant and the scratch is gone

The final step in the polishing process is to pack away all of the tools you have used, making sure everything is clean and ready for next use. All towels and applicator pads should be washed in a washing machine at a low temperature using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners) before being allowed to dry out naturally. All polishing pads should be scraped off using a blunt plastic edge and then rinsed out thoroughly under the tap before being left to soak for 10 - 15 minutes in a bucket of pad cleaning solution. After 10 - 15 minutes is up, the pads should be rinsed out thoroughly and then left to dry out naturally.

source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

[sunilyo]

What Polish Should I Use?

Somewhat surprisingly, paint hardness actually varies significantly between different makes of car, and also in some cases between different ages of the same make and model of car. The reasons why this is so are quite complicated, but suffice to say it is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing, because if it is not then inappropriate polishing products and pads may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective ...


Q. Does paint hardness really vary that much between different cars?Q. My car has soft paint and I want to polish it by hand; What polishes and pads should i use?To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Menzerna Power Finish (203S) in conjunction with Lake Country Light Cut Hand Pads. Working small areas at a time using firm pressure should enable you to correct around 90% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish in conjunction with Meguiar's Microfibre Applicator Pads. Working on small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to partially hide any remaining defects and maximise gloss in just a single attempt per panel. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will yield good results, it will require a significant amount of hard work!

Recommended: Menzerna Power Finish (203S)

Recommended: Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish

Recommended: Lake Country Light Cut Hand Pad

Q. My car has intermediate paint and i want to polish it by hand; what polishes and pads should i use?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Menzerna Power Finish (203S) in conjunction with Lake Country German Light Cut Hand Pads. Working small areas at a time using firm pressure should enable you to correct around 70% of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish in conjunction with Meguiar's Microfibre Applicator Pads. Working on small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to partially hide any remaining defects and maximise gloss in just a single attempt per panel. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will yield good results, it will require a significant amount of hard work!

Recommended: Menzerna Power Finish (203S)

Recommended: Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish

Recommended: Meguiar's Microfibre Applicator Pad

Q. My car has hard paint and I want to polish it by hand; what polishes and pads should i use?
Being brutally honest, you have almost no chance of correcting swirl marks and light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car by hand. The best you could hope to achieve making multiple attempts per panel with a light compound like Menzerna Power Finish (203S) in conjunction with Lake Country Light Cut Hand Pads is around 50% correction, and even this would require a huge amount of time and effort to achieve. Therefore, our advice is to consider alternative options such as glazing, machine polishing or using the services of a professional detailer. Layering filler heavy glazes such as R222 Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser or Poorboy's Black Hole Glaze with Meguiar's Microfibre Applicator Pads can give the illusion of a reasonable level of paint correction for relatively little effort, and this effect will usually last for between three to six months at a time if a good quality last step product is used regularly to protect the resulting finish. Investing in a machine polisher makes more sense if a high standard of permanent correction is desired, but considerably more time and money will have to be invested in both products and the learning of new techniques. For those enthusiasts desiring a high level of correction but not wishing to entertain the idea of machine polishing their own paint, using the services of a professional detailer to get the paint back up to standard can be an equally cost effective way forward.

Recommended: R222 Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser

Recommended: Poorboy's Black Hole Glaze

Recommended: Meguiar's Microfibre Applicator Pad

Q. My car has soft paint and I want to polish it using a dual action machine polisher; What polishes and pads should i use?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend using Menzerna Super Finish (85RE) on Lake Country Constant Pressure Polishing Pads (140 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas and 100 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you able to correct around 95% of the defects present and produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using either a good quality sealant or wax. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you should switch to Menzerna Power Finish (203S) on Lake Country Constant Pressure Light Cut Pads (140 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas and 100 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). This product and pad combination offers more cutting power, but should be used sparingly, as the rate of paint removal increases significantly (there is rarely any need to follow up with Menzerna Super Finish (85RE) again afterwards, as the gloss level produced by Menzerna Power Finish (203S) is also exceptionally good).

Recommended: Menzerna Super Finish (85RE)

Recommended: Lake Country 140 mm Constant Pressure Pads

Recommended: PB Soft Paint Polishing Kit

Q. My car has intermediate paint and i want to polish it using a dual action machine polisher; what polishes and pads should i use?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend using Menzerna Super Finish (85RE) on Lake Country Hydro-Tech Finishing Pads (140 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas and 100 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you able to correct around 95% of the defects present and produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using either a good quality sealant or wax. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you should switch to Menzerna Power Finish (203S) on Lake Country Hydro-Tech Polishing Pads (140 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas and 100 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). This product and pad combination offers more cutting power, but should be used sparingly, as the rate of paint removal increases significantly (there is rarely any need to follow up with Menzerna Super Finish (85RE) again afterwards, as the gloss level produced by Menzerna Power Finish (203S) is also exceptionally good).

Recommended: Menzerna Super Finish (85RE)

Recommended: Lake Country 140 mm Hydro-Tech Pads

Recommended: PB Intermediate Paint Polishing Kit

Q. My car has hard paint and I want to polish it using a dual action machine polisher; what polishes and pads should i use?
To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend using Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish (#205) on Lake Country Hydro-Tech Finishing Pads (140 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas and 100 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). Working at around 4000-5000 orbits per minute (speed 4-5 on most dual action machine polishers) using light to moderate pressure should enable you able to correct around 95% of the defects present and produce an ultra-sharp high gloss finish, which you should then protect using either a good quality sealant or wax. To get an even higher level of correction, or to tackle any remaining deeper defects, you should switch to Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound (#105) on Lake Country Hydro-Tech Cutting Pads (140 mm pads on a 125 mm backing plate for larger flatter areas and 100 mm spot pads on a 75 mm backing plate for smaller more awkward areas). This product and pad combination offers more cutting power, but should be used sparingly, as the rate of paint removal increases significantly. After correcting deeper defects, we recommend following up with Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish (#205) on Lake Country Hydro-Tech Finishing Pads again, in order to maximise surface gloss.

Recommended: Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish (#205)

Recommended: Lake Country 140 mm Hydro-Tech Pads

Recommended: PB Hard Paint Polishing Kit

Q. After polishing i can see a faint pattern of tiny swirl marks. Have i done something wrong?
Such a pattern is most likely micromarring, which is the technical term for fresh sub-surface defects inflicted during the polishing process as unbroken down abrasive particles are continually moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, leaving a faint pattern of very tightly defined swirl marks. Micromarring is typically caused in one of two ways. Firstly, it can result from using an overly robust abrasive for the paint type being worked on; if the surface resistance of the paint is insufficient to enable abrasive particles to fracture and breakdown properly, they will simply be moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, causing fresh defects. However, if you have read up on your likely paint type and followed our advice concerning polish selection, then it is unlikely that the robustness of the abrasive will be the problem. Secondly, it can result from a build-up of spent polish residue on the surface of the pad; if spent polish residue is allowed to accumulate as you work your way around the car, it will eventually form a gummy layer on the surface of the pad that will reduce the efficiency of particulate breakdown at the interface between the pad and the paint, meaning that more and more abrasive particles will simply be moved around at the interface between the pad and the paint, causing fresh defects. This problem catches out many novices, but can be avoided by ensuring that spent polish residue on the face of the pad is brushed off regularly using a small stiff brush (we recommend using a PB Utility Brush for this task) and that pads are changed as soon as they become saturated and can no longer be brushed clean.

source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

[sunilyo]

Choosing Paint Protection

Once cleaned and polished, all painted surfaces should be protected with either a good quality natural carnauba wax or a synthetic polymer sealant if the long-term quality of the finish is to be preserved. In this guide, find out about the differences between natural carnauba waxes and synethetic polymer sealants, how to tell how well protected your paint is, how your choice of last step product can affect the appearance of your paint, and which sealants and waxes we think work best on various coloured cars ...


Natural Carnauba waxes VS synthetic polymer sealants
Once cleaned and polished, painted surfaces then require protection against the elements if the long-term quality of the finish is to be preserved. Protection comes in the form of natural carnauba waxes, synthetic polymer sealants and products that combine the two, and may be defined as an invisible barrier that adheres to the surface of your paint and shields it against every day dust and grime, industrial fallout, honeydew, bug splatter, bird droppings and UV radiation. Obviously any protection that you apply to your paint, whether it be a sealant or a wax or even a combination of the two, is subject to chemical and physical erosion by the weather. As such, it will be gradually worn away over time, necessitating periodical reapplication if a high level of protection is to be maintained.

How do we measure or test how well our paint is protected? All types of protection create an invisible surface layer that repels water and contaminants. This water hating or hydrophobic layer causes water droplets to either bead up on or sheet off of the paint surface, depending on the type of protectant in question. Natural carnauba wax finishes are extremely hydrophobic and tend to repel water more strongly than synthetic polymer sealants. As a result, it is usual for waxed finishes to bead up strongly in wet weather, with water droplets literally appearing to be pushed upwards off of the paint surface. In contrast, sealed finishes tend to be much slicker and less hydrophobic, meaning that water droplets don't tend to bead up as much but instead run off quickly and freely. Both of these characteristics are indicative of a high level of paint protection. In contrast, if water just sits on your car without beading or running off, then the chances are the level of protection is low.

As we mentioned at the outset, paint protection comes in three different forms that offer varying degrees of gloss, reflectivity, slickness and durability. If you are relatively new to detailing and have visited any of the major detailing forums you may have been a bit baffled by the meaning of such terms in discussions about last step products (which is the all encompassing term for paint protection products). In addition, you may be feeling overwhelmed by the broad choice of last step products on offer in our store. In the rest of this guide, we will define what these descriptive terms mean and attempt to show you how your choice of last step product can affect the appearance of your paint. We hope that this information will enable you to choose suitable products and achieve the look you desire from your paint. However, before we go on we should take a minute or two to summarise a little more about the differences between natural carnauba waxes, synthetic polymer sealants and products that combine the two.

Carnauba wax is derived from a type of palm tree that is native to Brazil and is nature's hardest, purest and most transparent wax. Many show car owners and car care enthusiasts (we'll call them the purists) have long argued that natural carnauba wax produces a richer, darker, glossier finish than other types of last step product, particularly when used on darker coloured cars. A coating of carnauba wax always beads water nicely and can help to mask minor defects in your paint. However, in most cases the durability of carnauba wax is quite low; under our climate in the UK a coat of an average quality carnauba wax will typically last somewhere between two to three months, depending on the time of year, the mileage you do and whether or not you garage your car overnight.

In contrast to naturally derived carnauba wax, synthetic polymer sealants are the product of modern technology and typically comprise very complex formulas containing either polyamino-siloxane or polyethylene-acrylic polymers. Many car care enthusiasts (we'll call them the realists) have long argued that synthetic polymer sealants are superior to other types of last step product, as they produce an ultra slick finish that is extremely durable. Under our climate in the UK, a coat of synthetic polymer protection will typically last somewhere between three to four months, depending on the time of year, the mileage you do and whether or not you garage your car overnight. However, the finish produced by sealants is typically less glossy and far sharper looking than that produced by carnauba wax and can actually highlight defects rather than mask them.

Carnauba wax is naturally derived from a palm tree native to Brazil

Synthetic polymer sealants are manufactured in specialist laboratories

A good sign of a well protected paint surface is tall beading; rather extreme in this case!

In recent years, a number of last step products have been released onto the car care market that comprise advanced blends of carnauba waxes and synthetic sealants. These products are typically marketed as offering the glossiness and warmth associated with traditional carnauba waxes and the clarity and durability associated with synthetic sealants. In our experience, these claims are not far off the mark and such products have certainly added another dimension to choosing paint protection that has made things more interesting. However, a very similar effect can also be achieved by layering a carnauba wax over a synthetic sealant. The thinking here is that the sealant forms a highly durable basecoat and the wax then endows the finish with glossiness and warmth. In our experience this works well, but you have to be careful when it comes to layering products and remember not get things the wrong way around. The golden rule is that it is fine to layer waxes over sealants but not the other way around, simply because sealants rarely bond to waxed surfaces very well.

In our professional experience the choice of last step product can make a subtle yet significant difference to the overall look of a car. This is because waxes and sealant layers have different physical properties (texture, density, opacity, thickness, etc) and thus reflect and refract light differently. In real terms, natural carnauba waxes do indeed tend to produce a much softer, warmer, glossier finish, while synthetic sealants tend to produce a sharper, cooler, shinier finish. Therefore, it is possible to tailor the final look of your paint depending on what last step product you choose, and some colours are more susceptible to this effect than others. This being the case, a key question arises; how do you know which wax or sealant to choose to produce the best possible finish on a particular colour?

The answer to this question can only really be provided by lots of hands-on experience of sealing and waxing many different coloured paints using many different commercially available last step products. Indeed, this is exactly how we have acquired our own in-depth knowledge of last step products and the results they give on various popular paint colours, and we are happy to share our experience so that our customers may benefit and achieve the best possible results without wasting time and money through unnecessary trial and error. Accordingly, what follows below is a series of recommendations on which last step product(s) you should use to produce the best possible finish on various paint colours. These recommendations are based entirely on our own professional experience and assume that the paint in each case has been washed, cleaned and polished to perfection.





Q. What is the best sealant or wax to use on solid white and light metallic/ pearlescent colours?
Many people find it difficult to achieve an excellent finish on solid white and light metallic/pearlescent colours, no matter how well they prepare their paint. This is because the lightness of tone precludes a high degree of reflectivity and thus makes it hard to achieve a finish with any real clarity and depth. Furthermore, this lack of reflectivity can also limit how wet the paint looks, as fewer highlights are shown up in the finish. However, these problems can largely be overcome by choosing a synthetic polymer sealant instead of a natural carnauba wax as the last step product. This is because sealants tend to lay down an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface coating that reflects light far more efficiently than a microscopically rougher, less dense natural carnauba wax coating, and this can add a significant amount of wetness to the appearance of the paint, as more highlights are shown up in the finish. Moreover, the same smoothing properties also minimise any scattering of light caused by micro-structures in the surface of the paint, meaning that reflections are afforded greater clarity and depth, and that metallic and pearlescent flakes receive more transmitted light and thus appear to stand out more from the base colour (a phenomenon commonly referred to as flake pop).

Out of the various synthetic polymer sealant systems we stock, we favour the Werkstat Acrylic Kit for optimal results on solid white and light metallic/pearlescent colours. This is because it delivers an incredible level of reflectivity characterised by amazing clarity and depth, and makes metallic and pearlescent flakes stand out from the base colour more than any other product we have ever used. Indeed, on some light metallic colours we have worked on, it has literally made the flake appear to explode out of the surface of the paint when viewed in direct sunlight. Further benefits afforded by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit include terrific ease of use, even in cold and damp conditions, and excellent durability, with a single application of the three component system typically lasting for around three months on a daily driver, although this can be extended almost indefinitely if regular quick detailing is undertaken. If your budget is too small to stretch to the Werkstat Acrylic Kit, there are two alternative options worth considering. The first is Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection, which delivers an equally intense wet looking shine, albeit with a little less flake pop. The second is Poorboy's EX-P Sealant, which delivers a sharp wet looking shine with good flake pop and offers excellent value for money.

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid white...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid white...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on light metallic silver...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on light metallic silver...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on light metallic silver...

Recommended: Werkstat Acrylic Kit

Q. What is the best sealant or wax to use on solid mid-tone colours?
Many people find it relatively easy to achieve a soft, warm, glossy finish on solid mid-tone colours like reds and yellows, and this can be explained as much by the characteristics of the paint as by the choice of last step product used. This is because the basecoat layer in such colour systems is usually twice as thick as in lighter and darker paint systems respectively, and also comprises light absorbing pigments that serve to minimise reflectivity and thus enhance colour intensity. It is possible to counter this effect to some extent by choosing a synthetic sealant instead of a natural carnauba wax as the last step product, and in many cases this will enhance reflectivity significantly, but unfortunately usually at the expense of colour intensity and gloss. In our opinion, it is better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using a natural carnauba wax as the last step product on all solid mid-tone colours. This is because natural carnauba wax layers are microscopically rougher than smoother, denser sealant coatings, and thus scatter a greater proportion of incoming light, meaning that reflections are afforded less clarity and depth, and that colour intensity is enhanced (a phenomenon commonly referred to as jetting). In real terms, this translates to the paint taking on a much softer, richer, glossier appearance.

Out of the various natural carnauba wax systems we stock, we favour the Werkstat Carnauba Kit for optimal results on solid mid-tone colours. This is because it delivers an incredible amount of jetting that makes solid mid-tone colours literally look like they are about to pop in front of you; no other product we have used makes such colours look as rich and intense. Further benefits afforded by the Werkstat Carnauba Kit include terrific ease of use, even in cold and damp conditions, and excellent durability, with a single application of the three component system typically lasting for around three months on a daily driver, although this can be extended almost indefinitely if regular quick detailing is undertaken. However, if you would prefer to use a paste wax as opposed to a spray wax, then the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit is well worth considering. This high quality carnauba wax also delivers a high degree of jetting on solid mid-tone colours with even more outright gloss, and is also easy to use and highly durable. If your budget is too small to stretch to either the Werkstat Carnauba Kit or the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit, then there is one further alternative option worth considering. The combination of Poorboy's EX Sealant with Carnauba topped with multiple layers of Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax delivers a rich, warm finish with excellent gloss levels, and offers excellent value for money.

Results produced by the Werkstat Carnauba Kit on solid red...

Results produced by the Werkstat Carnauba Kit on solid red...

Results produced by the Werkstat Carnauba Kit on solid red...

Results produced by the Werkstat Carnauba Kit on solid yellow...

Results produced by the Werkstat Carnauba Kit on solid yellow...

Recommended: Werkstat Carnauba Kit

Q. What is the best sealant or wax to use on mid-tone metallic / pearlescent colours?
Compared to their lighter counterparts, mid-tone metallic/pearlescent colours have enough additional colour depth to give them a significantly greater degree of reflectivity. Not only does this make it far easier to achieve a finish with much greater clarity and depth, but it also enhances how wet the paint looks, as more highlights are shown up in the finish. Consequently, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and most last step products will produce good results. However, we believe it is always better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using a synthetic sealant instead of a natural carnauba wax as the last step product on mid-tone metallic/pearlescent colours. This is because sealants tend to lay down an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface coating that minimises any scattering of light caused by micro-structures in the surface of the paint, meaning that metallic and pearlescent flakes receive more transmitted light and thus appear to stand out more from the base colour (a phenomenon commonly referred to as flake pop). Moreover, the same smoothing properties also ensure that light is reflected far more efficiently than would be the case with a microscopically rougher, less dense natural carnauba wax coating, meaning that reflections are afforded much greater clarity and depth.

Out of the various synthetic polymer sealant systems we stock, we favour either the Werkstat Acrylic Kit or the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit for optimal results on mid-tone metallic/pearlescent colours. The Werkstat Acrylic Kit delivers an incredible level of reflectivity characterised by amazing clarity and depth, and makes metallic and pearlescent flakes stand out from the base colour more than any other product we have used. Indeed, on some mid-tone metallic colours we have worked on, it has literally made the flake appear to explode out of the surface of the paint when viewed in direct sunlight. Further benefits afforded by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit include terrific ease of use, even in cold and damp conditions, and excellent durability, with a single application of the three component system typically lasting for around three months on a daily driver, although this can be extended almost indefinitely if regular quick detailing is undertaken. Alternatively, the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit delivers an equally outstanding finish, characterised by slightly less flake pop but greater jetting and outright gloss. Further benefits afforded by the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, with a single application typically lasting for around three months on a daily driver, although this can be extended almost indefinitely if regular quick detailing is undertaken.

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on a mid-tone metallic blue...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on a mid-tone metallic blue...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on a mid-tone metallic blue...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on a mid-tone metallic grey...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on a mid-tone metallic grey...

Recommended: Werkstat Acrylic Kit

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit on a mid-tone metallic blue...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit on a mid-tone metallic blue...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit on a mid-tone metallic blue...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit on a mid-tone metallic red...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit on a mid-tone metallic orange...

Recommended: Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit

Q. What is the best sealant or wax to use on solid dark colours?
Whilst solid dark colours are undisputedly harder to maintain to a high standard than lighter colours, they do offer the luxury of more choices when it comes to choosing last step products to tailor the final look of the paint. This is because the intense colour depth gives a very high degree of reflectivity, which not only makes it far easier to achieve a finish with much greater clarity and depth, but also enhances how wet the paint looks, as more highlights are shown up. Consequently, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and it is quite straightforward to tailor the look of the final finish by choosing last step products that significantly enhance either reflectivity or gloss. By doing the former with a synthetic polymer sealant you can produce a sharper, cooler, shinier finish, while by doing the latter with a natural carnauba wax you can produce a softer, richer, glossier finish. This is because sealants tend to lay down an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface coating transmits light very efficiently and maximises reflectivity, while natural carnauba wax coatings tend to comprise a microscopically rougher, less dense surface layer that scatters more incoming light and maximises colour intensity and gloss.

If maximising reflectivity and producing the sharpest possible looking finish on a dark solid colour is your ultimate goal, we recommend choosing the Werkstat Acrylic Kit as your paint protection system. This is because it delivers an incredible level of reflectivity characterised by amazing clarity and depth, and makes solid dark colours look razor sharp. However, this high degree of reflectivity and sharpness can be counter-productive in terms of colour intensity and gloss, and can leave some dark solid colours looking somewhat cold and sterile. Thus, it is not a finish that will suit all tastes. In contrast, if maximising colour intensity and gloss on a dark solid colour is your ultimate goal, we recommend choosing the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit as your paint protection system. This is because it delivers an incredible amount of jetting that makes solid dark colours literally look like they are about to pop in front of you; no other product we have used makes dark colours look as rich and intense. Further benefits afforded by the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, with a single application typically lasting for around four months. If neither of the above options appeal, and you would rather produce a more balanced looking finish, we recommend choosing Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection, as it delivers an intense wet looking shine with excellent reflectivity and gloss.

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Werkstat Acrylic Kit on solid black...

Recommended: Werkstat Acrylic Kit

Results produced by the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit on solid black...

Results produced by the Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit on solid black...

Recommended: Raceglaze Signature Series '55' Kit

Q. What is the best sealant or wax to use on dark metallic / pearlescent colours?
If there is an optimal colour group to work with in the world of car care, then dark metallic/pearlescent colours has to be it. Not only do such colours easily yield highly reflective, incredibly wet looking finishes with terrific clarity and depth, but they are also fairly forgiving and far easier to maintain than solid dark colours. Unsurprisingly, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and most last step products will produce good results. However, we believe it is always better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using a synthetic polymer sealant basecoat topped with natural carnauba wax layers as the protective system on dark metallic/pearlescent colours. This is because the sealant basecoat lays down an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface coating that enhances reflectivity and flake pop, while the subsequent layers of natural carnauba wax maximise colour intensity and gloss. The overall effect of this two stage approach is to produce a beautifully balanced finish that enhances the look of the metallic/pearlescent flake whilst simultaneously jetting the base colour. In our opinion, there is little point paying extra for a metallic/pearlescent colour unless you are going to properly show it off in this way!

Our favourite last step product system for producing optimal results on dark metallic/pearlescent colours is the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit, which contains both Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection and Blackfire Midnight Sun Paste Wax. Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection delivers an intense wet looking shine with excellent reflectivity, and sharpens up the look of dark metallic/pearlescent colours brilliantly. Further benefits afforded by Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, which makes it ideal for use as a basecoat for subsequent layers of Blackfire Midnight Sun Paste Wax. The addition of multiple layers of Blackfire Midnight Sun Paste Wax over a basecoat of Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection adds a rippling liquidity and intense vibrancy to dark metallic/pearlescent colours that is on par with the finish produced by bespoke high-end waxes costing thousands of pounds; it is a deeply impressive product that has few, if any, serious rivals at the same price point. If your budget is too small to stretch to the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit then a good second choice is a basecoat of Poorboy's EX-P Sealant topped with multiple layers of Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax Blue. This duo delivers a rich, warm looking finish with a high level of gloss and no muting of the metallic/pearlescent flake, and offers excellent value for money.

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit on metallic black...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit on metallic black...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit on metallic black...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit on metallic black...

Results produced by the Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit on metallic black...

Recommended: Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Kit

Q. What can i use to add extra protection against stone chips?
No last step products (sealants or waxes) that we know of offer any protection whatsoever against stone chips; the final thickness of the protective coating (even when heavily layered) is always much less than a micron thick, and high speed impacts with stones and other road debris penetrate this easily. Your only option for added protection against such damage is to have a clear film covering such as Armourfend or Ventureshield fitted. These vinyl films are several hundred microns thick and protect against stone chip damage fairly well, but their aesthetic qualities are typically poor in terms of reflectivity and clarity, and they are expensive to fit. Our solution has always been to allow stone chips to accumulate over time and have the affected panels resprayed every 18 - 24 months. This is no more costly than having a clear film fitted, and looks far nicer in terms of the aesthetics of the finish.


source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

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Quick Detailing - The Facts

Quick detailing is a term used to describe how you can maintain the appearance of your car after washes using products that you simply spray on and then immediately buff off using a microfibre towel. However, in some parts of the world quick detailing is also used as a substitute for normal washing and some degree of confusion has arisen in terms of understanding what is and isn't safe. In this guide, we discuss the origin of quick detailing products and comment on their suitability for maintenance and washing ...


Our views on Quick detailing products and what they should be used for
Quick detailing is a term used to describe how you can maintain the appearance of your car after washes using products that you simply spray on and then immediately buff off using a plush microfibre towel. The term was coined in the US in the early 1980s when the first spray and wipe products were released onto the car care market. These products were intended to serve two main purposes. Firstly, their use was recommended after washing and drying, as their special formulations enabled them to quickly and easily remove water spots and add extra glossiness to the finish. Secondly, their use was recommended every few days to remove light dust and fresh road grime and negate the need for regular washing. This was marketed as a lifestyle advantage for busy people with little or no time for car care and those living in areas subject to seasonal water shortages.

These intended uses remain equally valid today, but have evolved in line with advances in the marketplace. For example, many quick detailing products now also add a layer of sealant or wax protection, meaning that topping up your protection can now be done quickly and easily after each wash. This means that it is now possible to extend the life of underlying sealant and wax layers almost indefinitely, which is certainly a benefit for busy people who struggle to find the time for sealing and waxing after washes. Moreover, advanced products are currently being released onto the market that promise to enable you to safely and effectively wash your car without the need for buckets or a hose; instead you simply wipe your car clean. These so called waterless wash products feature advanced blends of emulsifiers, surfactants and lubricating oils that loosen dirt and grime and enable it to be safely wiped away without adding fine scratches to underlying surfaces.

If the above sounds too good to be true that's because to a large extent it is. A lot of comments posted on car care websites about quick detailing are often written by people living in warm, sunny climates where the roads are clean and rainfall intermittent. In the UK, our climate is very different and it is not unusual to find that your car is quite dirty again only a few days after washing it. Generally speaking, waterless wash products are only meant to be used to remove light accumulations of dust and grime; not even their manufacturers recommend that they are used to clean really dirty vehicles, as the chances are you will damage your paint by inflicting swirl marks or more serious scratches. Although we urge caution, waterless wash products are invaluable on certain occasions. For example, if you are going to a show or a track day some distance away, waterless wash products are great as they enable you to quickly and easily remove any grime acquired en route.

Returning to the first intended use of quick detailing products, we recommend that they are used after every wash to remove water spots, enhance gloss and add another valuable layer of sealant or wax protection. An important thing to remember at this stage is that you should try to match your choice of quick detailer to the type of sealant or wax you use. For example, if you normally add protection in the form of a natural carnauba wax, you should only use a quick detailer that contains gloss enhancing oils and carnauba wax. This is because if you attempt to layer a sealant-based product over a wax the sealant polymers may not bond properly, which may limit durability and cause streaking. However, if you normally protect your car by applying a sealant then you can use any quick detailer you like, providing that you don't end up layering a coat of sealant over a layer of a wax-based product at any point. If you are unsure about what can and can't be layered in terms of last step products and quick detailing products, please get in touch and we will be happy to advise you accordingly.

Recommended: Werkstat Acrylic Glos

Recommended: Werkstat Carnauba Glos

Recommended: Poorboy's Deluxe Mega Towel

source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

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Caring For Wheels And Tyres

Rims and tyres are subject to contamination by brake dust and road grime on a continual basis and are probably the hardest part of your car to maintain to a high standard. In this guide, find out how to wash and clean alloy rims and wheel covers, how to remove stubborn accumulations of brake dust safely and effectively, how to clean and protect tyres, and how to apply sealant protection to alloy rims and wheel covers and prevent corrosion from setting in and causing permanent damage ...


Brake dust - The bane of car care enthusiasts
Your wheels are probably the hardest part of your car to safely clean and protect, as they are subject to continuous contamination by brake dust and road grime. Brake dust is a major problem for owners of cars with alloy wheels, as it is corrosive, unsightly and difficult to remove. Brake dust is the product of friction between brake discs and brake pads. When braking, the surface of brake pads is worn way, producing dust that is deposited on other surfaces nearby, i.e. your rims. The compounds used to make brake pads vary greatly in hardness and metal content, meaning that the amount of brake dust generated can vary significantly between cars.

Brake dust is actually a combination of carbon fibres, metal filings and adhesive residues. It is often deposited on rims at very high temperatures, meaning that it immediately etches into any protective coatings. The adhesive residues in brake dust not only cause it to firmly bond to everything it touches, but also initiate corrosion in their own right, as they are often acidic. If that wasn't bad enough, the metal filings contained in brake dust have a tendency to oxidise, and if they do this when in contact with the metal of the rim the process of galvanic corrosion sets in. Thus, brake dust gradually erodes protective coatings until they fail, after which point the rim itself starts to corrode. This gradual erosion not only makes the rim look unsightly, but can also eventually affect the structural integrity of the wheel.

There are three ways to control brake dust. The first is to fit aftermarket low dust brake pads. Both kevlar-based compounds and high metal content compounds are effective in this respect. The second option is to fit dust shields, which can now be bought for most types of cars. These sit between the rim and the hub and shield the rim from the caliper assembly whilst still allowing ventilation. The downside of such devices is that they look unsightly and aren't suitable for performance cars where high levels of ventilation are required. The third option is to establish a proper wheel care routine. An easy thing to say, but what does this actually mean? In our experience, if you want to keep your wheels in perfect condition, it means a minimum of weekly washing and quarterly reapplication of a wheel sealant. Anything less and corrosion will occur, as we have found to our own cost in the past.

Regular washing should be the easy bit, but is often overlooked, particularly during the winter months when cold and wet weather often means that weekends are spent indoors and the notion of going outside to wash the car seems pointless. Believe us, it isn't. Get your coat and hat on and give your wheels a quick wash and don't worry about drying everything off; just make sure you get any road salt and brake dust off. It only takes a few weeks for serious etching to set in on unprotected rims and in the winter many weekends can pass by without a nice day. Once etching sets in you're facing a problem a bit like rust; no matter what you do it persistently gets worse.


Recommended methods and products for effective wheel care
We recommend that wheels are washed using a microfibre wash mitt and a gentle shampoo in conjunction with the two bucket method. Note that you should never attempt to wash your wheels when they are still hot from driving. This is because products will dry too quickly and leave stains, and you could also crack the discs if you cool them too quickly by hosing them down with cold water. You should start the washing process by hosing off any loose dirt and grime using a hose or a pressure washer, being careful not to knock sticky balancing weights off if you have alloy wheels. You should then scrub the tyres and rims using the wash mitt, being generous with the suds and taking the time to get into all of the nooks and crannies and remove all of the brake dust (if you continually miss some wash after wash it will become more firmly bonded, making later removal more difficult). If your wheels are very dirty you can also scrub them first using a soft tipped wheel cleaning brush. After washing all of the wheels, rinse them off with the hose and then move on to washing the insides of the wheel arches, rinsing your mitt regularly. Finally, rinse everything off again and dry the wheels using a microfibre drying towel.

You might be questioning at this stage whether brake dust can be successfully removed using just a wash mitt and a gentle shampoo. In our experience the answer is yes, providing that the wheels are regularly protected with a high quality wheel sealant. Such products form a barrier on the surface of the rim, staving off any corrosive effects and dramatically reducing the ability of brake dust to bond to the rim. However, such coatings are themselves eroded over time and should be replaced every few months if adequate protection is to be maintained. If you haven't protected your rims before and you are finding that normal washing is not removing all of the brake dust bonded to your rims, then you may need to initially use a more aggressive cleaning product to solve the problem. Such products are sold en masse in many high street stores, and comprise sprays and foams that promise to remove all traces of brake dust without any effort. In our experience, many of these products do not work, and those that do are often so aggressive (acidic) that they themselves can etch rims if used on a regular basis. We therefore recommend that such products are used infrequently and ideally only if absolutely necessary.

Recommended: Meguiar's Microfibre Wash Mitt

Recommended: PB Luxury Wheel Woolies

Recommended: R222 Wheel Cleaner (Regular)

Step by step guide - How to safely clean and protect your wheels
(IMO removing the tire and cleaning is an overkill and not at all required especially for Indian conditions)

The first thing to note is that ideally you should remove the wheels from the car to work on them. This is because it is very difficult to clean and protect the rear of the rim when working with the wheel still on the car. If you only ever tend to the front face of the rim, what will eventually happen is that corrosion will spread from the rear, negating your efforts. To remove a wheel from your car you should start by parking on a level surface and ensuring that the handbrake is on (it is also advisable to chock the wheels at the opposite end of the car to the wheel you want to remove). Then using a wheel brace, loosen the wheel nuts by a couple of turns with your car still on the ground. Then jack up the car using either the jack supplied with your car or a trolley jack (the latter is preferable), consulting your manual if you are unsure about the location of the jacking points. With your car now raised, you should now place an axle stand beneath a suitable jacking point and carefully lower your car onto the stand (again consult you manual if you unsure about the location of the jacking points). Finally, remove the loosened wheel nuts and the wheel, taking care not to let the wheel fall off the hub (also remember to put the wheel nuts in a safe place where they will not be lost or damaged).

When working with the wheel off the car, you should be careful not to let it fall over or rest with the front face on the ground, as this could easily cause damage. When we work on our own wheels we use two short lengths of timber to raise each wheel off the ground when working on either face. The first step in the actual cleaning process is to hose off any loosely bonded surface contaminants using a hose or pressure washer, being careful not to knock any sticky balancing weights off if you are working on an alloy wheel. Then you should scrub the tyre and rim using the wash mitt, being generous with the suds (it is perfectly acceptable to use either a mild wheel cleaner or an all purpose cleaner for this task) and taking the time to get into all of the nooks and crannies and remove as much contamination as possible. If the wheel is very dirty you could also scrub it first using a soft tipped wheel cleaning brush. After washing the wheel, rinse it off using a hose and finally dry both faces using a microfibre drying towel.

A typically dirty and grimey wheel in need of a good wash and spruce up

Loose grime and debris is first blasted away using a hose or pressure washer

The inner rim is then scrubbed with a strong shampoo mix and a wheel cleaning brush

The wheel face is washed more carefully using a soft microfibre wash mitt

An open ended hose is then used to rinse the wheel surfaces thoroughly

All surfaces should then be fully dried off using a microfibre drying towel

If you discover at this stage that there are still a lot of surface contaminants bonded to the rim, you can attempt to remove them using a clay bar and a lubricant (follow exactly the same procedure as when using a clay bar to clean painted surfaces; see our guide entitled "Decontaminating Paint" for details). The only downside to using a clay bar is that many rims feature intricate designs, which makes using a clay bar difficult and time consuming. An alternative is to use a chemical paint cleaner designed to clean surfaces and lay down a layer of either sealant or wax protection in a single step. When applied using a microfibre pad, such products have a relatively strong cleaning action that is capable of removing baked on brake dust in addition to tar spots and other bonded contaminants. Once all contaminants are fully removed, any residues should be buffed off using a microfibre towel.

With the wheel now clean, the next step in the process is to protect the rim using a wheel specific sealant. Such products are designed to be able to cope with higher temperatures than conventional sealants and waxes, and thus better resist etching caused by hot brake dust. You should take care at this stage to liberally cover every square inch of the rim, and apply two or three coats of protection one after the other. Each coat should be allowed to dry to a haze and then buffed off using a clean microfibre towel before applying the next coat. The next step in the process is to clean and dress both sides of the tyre using a good quality water-based tyre dressing, applied using a foam applicator pad. Unlike oil-based dressings, water-based dressings are able to penetrate the rubber, meaning that they can nourish and recondition it. This not only makes the tyre look more natural, but also ensures that that the tyre is kept in better condition, as UV protectants can be carried into the tyre wall rather than remaining on the surface where they are easily washed off. Moreover, because water-based dressings soak in, they are less likely to sling off up the sides of your car when you first drive it after refitting the wheels (the same cannot be said for oil-based dressings).

Residual contaminants can usually be nipped off using a chemical paint cleaner

A high quality wheel sealant is then applied to all surfaces of the rim

Applying a water-based dressing to the tyre wall completes the process

The penultimate step in the process is optional, but worthwhile in our opinion. It only takes an extra 30 minutes per wheel to thoroughly clean the inside of the wheel arch before refitting the wheel. Keeping the wheel arches relatively clean enables mechanics to inspect and repair suspension and braking systems more easily. In addition, keeping the wheel arches free from heavy accumulations of dirt and grime helps keep moisture levels down, which in turn may help to prevent the onset of corrosion (we were genuinely surprised on one occasion when we replaced an arch liner after a long spell of dry weather to find a lot of sodden muck stuck behind it). The first thing you should do to clean the inside of a wheel arch is hose off any loose dirt and grime using a hose or a pressure washer (the latter is preferable). All of the surfaces should then be liberally sprayed with a degreaser, which should then be left to work for 10 - 15 minutes. During this interval is it a good idea to agitate the surfaces with a soft bristled scrubbing brush, as this will help loosen stubborn deposits. On a hot day you should leave less time, as you should not allow the degreaser to dry on any parts as it may cause staining.

After waiting 10 - 15 minutes, the next thing you should do is rinse off all of the surfaces using a hose or a pressure washer. You should then inspect all of the surfaces and if necessary repeat the degreasing process. Once all of the surfaces are as clean as possible, you should dry them off using microfibre towels. Plastic arch liners can then be restored to as new condition using a trim restorer or a good quality surface dressing, applied using either a foam pad or a microfibre pad. Painted surfaces within wheel arches are often quite textured, making them difficult to work on, but you may be able to apply a spray on protectant without too much difficulty. When you are finished, you should carefully refit the wheel (we recommend applying copper grease to the thread of each wheel nut first), tighten the wheels nuts by hand, raise your car up a little, remove the axle stand and then finally lower your car to the ground. Once safely on the ground, you should tighten the wheel nuts using a torque wrench, consulting your manual if you are unsure about the correct torque setting to use.

A typically filthy wheel arch in need of a good wash and spruce up

Amazing what good quality cleaning products and a bit of elbow grease can do!

The end result not only looks ace, but will make maintenance easy for months to come

The final step in the cleaning process is to pack away all of the tools you have used, making sure everything is clean and ready for next use. All towels and applicator pads should be washed in a washing machine at a low temperature using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners) before being allowed to dry out naturally.



Source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

[sunilyo]

Caring For Modern Engines

Engine bay detailing is not something many people do. This may be because it seems like a lot of hard work when very few people will see it, or because the task appears to be too challenging. However, a clean engine bay can add to the value of your car when it comes to selling it and undoubtedly makes servicing easier. In this guide read about how to clean your engine using degreasers, how to rinse off your engine safely using a hose, and how to clean and protect plastic trims and rubber hoses, all in under an hour ...


Recommended methods and products for engine bay detailing
Many people firmly believe that engines and water do not mix. To a certain extent this is true. Anyone who has hit deep standing water and suffered a bent connecting rod as a result of water being drawn into the engine through the air intake will testify to this. However, as long as water isn't drawn into the engine, or allowed to saturate electrical contacts, it will not cause any problems. The proof of this can be seen on cars like the Lotus Elise, where the engine bay is effectively open to the atmosphere (and therefore rainfall) due to the number of cooling vents in the cover. So, what does this mean for engine bay detailing? Well, it means that you can hose off the engine bay without fear of causing any damage, providing that you cover the air intake and any sensitive electrical parts first.

Safe in the knowledge that you can safely hose your engine bay off, the next question you might ask is how will this help? Surely grease and grime cannot simply be hosed off? The answer is it can't; what you need to do first is break down the grease and grime using a degreaser. Up until fairly recently engine degreasers generally comprised potent mixtures of aggressive solvents, which were tremendously effective at cleaning but not very safe to work with and also not at all environmentally friendly. Fortunately, progress has been made to the extent that it is now possible to buy degreasers that comprise advanced detergent formulas and natural solvents, which makes them more environmentally friendly and safer to work with. The cleaning power of these products is almost as good as that of traditional degreasers provided they are agitated and given sufficient time to work.

Once the engine bay is clean and dry, all you finally need to do is dress and protect all of the surfaces. This is very straightforward, as you are dealing with materials that are found elsewhere on your car, namely plastics, rubber, metals, and painted surfaces. As such, you can use the same detailing products to great effect. Painted surfaces can easily and quickly be protected using a sealant or wax. Plastic engine covers and components can be restored to as new condition using a trim restorer or a surface dressing. Rubber hoses can be nourished and protected using a surface dressing or a tyre dressing. Most metal surfaces can be polished and protected using metal polishes and sealants, although this often requires more elbow grease (we frequently use a Dremel power tool in order to make lighter work of metal polishing duties).

Recommended: R222 Total Auto Wash

Recommended: Raceglaze Detailing Brush Set

Recommended: 303 Aerospace Protectant

Step by step guide - how to safely wash and protect your engine bay
When it actually comes to the cleaning process, the first thing you should do is make sure your engine is cool; never try and clean a hot engine. This is because products will dry too quickly and leave stains, and you could also burn yourself if you don't know your way around the engine bay. The next thing you should do is cover the air intake and any sensitive electrical parts. The best material for covering these components is aluminium foil. This may seem like a strange choice, but it actually makes a lot of sense, as it is very easy to mould over awkward shaped parts and it is 100 % waterproof providing that you don't tear it (it is also fully safe for modern engines as all electrical connections are housed in insulating plastics). Note that you do not have to fully seal every part you are covering; all you are doing is creating a mini umbrella that will prevent water ingress or pooling in or around sensitive components. To make the most of the umbrella effect you should only rinse off from a high angle.

Once the air intake and any sensitive electrical parts are safely covered, the next thing you should do is spray a degreaser over the entire engine bay, covering all surfaces, including the underside of the bonnet (although you may want to skip this latter step if you have a felt sound proofing cover secured in place, as they take ages to dry). Try to avoid spraying the front bumper and the wings; degreasers will strip existing sealant or wax protection. If you accidentally spray these areas, rinse them off with the hose and reapply sealant or wax protection at your earliest convenience. Once you have sprayed all of the surfaces, agitate thoroughly with soft brushes and then leave the degreaser to work for 10 - 15 minutes. On a hot day you should leave less time, as you should not allow the degreaser to dry on any parts as it may then cause staining.

A typically dirty and grimey engine bay in need of a good wash and spruce up

A gentle engine degreaser is applied, agitated and left to soak to loosen all of the grime

After 10 - 15 minutes the degreaser is rinsed off, taking all of the grime with it

After waiting 10 - 15 minutes, the next thing you should do is rinse off the entire engine bay, including the underside of the bonnet if necessary. Under no circumstances should you use high pressure water for rinsing off; you don't want to drive water into any components. A normal hose with the spray attachment set to a wide angle or a pressure washer turned down to the lowest setting is perfect, as both options provide enough force to carry away all of the loosened grease and grime without risking ingress. Rinse off thoroughly but for no longer than necessary; once the suds have disappeared the job is done. After quickly removing all of the foil coverings the next thing you should do is start your engine, in order to help to start the drying process. You should only leave it running for a couple of minutes though, as you don't want it to become too warm, as this will adversely affect the application of surface dressings afterwards. After switching off the engine, finish the drying process using microfibre towels.

After rinsing off all surfaces should be dried thoroughly using microfibre towels

All plastics and rubber surfaces should then be dressed with a trim protectant

Washed, dried and protected, and now looking like new again... in less than an hour!

With the engine bay now clean and dry the penultimate thing you should do is dress and protect all of the surfaces. Painted surfaces can easily and quickly be protected using a sealant or a wax. Plastic engine covers and components can be restored to as new condition using a trim restorer or a surface dressing, applied using either a foam pad or a microfibre pad. Rubber hoses can be nourished and protected using a surface dressing or a tyre dressing, again applied using either a foam pad or a microfibre pad. Most metal surfaces can be polished and protected using metal polishes and sealants, although this often requires more elbow grease (we frequently use a Dremel power tool in order to make lighter work of metal polishing duties).

The final step in the cleaning process is to pack away all of the tools you have used, making sure everything is clean and ready for next use. All towels and applicator pads should be washed in a washing machine at a low temperature using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners) before being allowed to dry out naturally.

source: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

[ashu99924]

Check your PM.

Really great job on detailing, how much it cost you?

[myth2104]

Which of the following should I opt for:-
1) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Paste Wax Polish
2) Formula 1 Carnauba Car Wax Polish
3) Formula 1 Motorcycle wax polish (I doubt this is good for P200NS' non-metallic parts)

Are they suitable for the fibre parts of P200NS and are they actually wax or polish? Im looking for a wax.

[aargee]

Which of the following should I opt for:-
1) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Paste Wax Polish
2) Formula 1 Carnauba Car Wax Polish

If you can get the original, both are good

3) Formula 1 Motorcycle wax polish (I doubt this is good for P200NS' non-metallic parts)

Wax Polisha???

Are they suitable for the fibre parts of P200NS and are they actually wax or polish? Im looking for a wax.

Use a wax on P200NS for now & keep waxing regularly; start using Polish after a year or so

Use the wax on the plastic parts depending on the finish (like paint finish). But if you need THE BEST...opt for Collinite 845 liquid wax (minimal effort to spend on buffing) or Collinite 476S (good exercise )

[myth2104]

If you can get the original, both are good


Wax Polisha???


Use a wax on P200NS for now & keep waxing regularly; start using Polish after a year or so

Use the wax on the plastic parts depending on the finish (like paint finish). But if you need THE BEST...opt for Collinite 845 liquid wax (minimal effort to spend on buffing) or Collinite 476S (good exercise )

Thanks a lot @aargee sir.
I'l be getting those stuff from here (should be original) >

Formula 1 Car Wax Polish 230gm Carnauba Car Wax


Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Paste Wax Polish Automobile 270g

Yes, although never used it, but I've heard (here at xbhp and outside too) that Collinite 845 is the best.
Probably, will take that up in 2-3 months from bringingbest.com. (Currently out of of cash you know )

Thanks again.

[aargee]

I'l be getting those stuff from here (should be original)

Ok, but I don't know to identify fake from original. So I'm sorry, can't be of much help here.

Collinite 845 is the best

Best...LIQUID wax; like I said, 476S is even better, but application is tougher than 845. But 845 does a pretty good job (can withstand dirt, repel dust & helps easy clean & wipe) for a month (in the monsoons, Summers offers protection like 3-4 months)

Probably, will take that up in 2-3 months from bringingbest.com. (Currently out of of cash you know )

If I were you...I'd wait to buy the wax; get a regular polish like Meguiar's or Mother's, use it once & then apply the wax.

[myth2104]

Ok, but I don't know to identify fake from original. So I'm sorry, can't be of much help here.


Best...LIQUID wax; like I said, 476S is even better, but application is tougher than 845. But 845 does a pretty good job (can withstand dirt, repel dust & helps easy clean & wipe) for a month (in the monsoons, Summers offers protection like 3-4 months)


If I were you...I'd wait to buy the wax; get a regular polish like Meguiar's or Mother's, use it once & then apply the wax.

Thanks again sir. Would then go for Meguiar's for now and then get Collinite Liquid Wax asap.

[aargee]

Thanks again sir. Would then go for Meguiar's for now and then get Collinite Liquid Wax asap.

RG is fine, no SIR pls

If you're ordering from bringingbest, then mention you're an xBhp member