Engine Oils

[Mzee_Maverik]

i have used CRB plus 20w40 4 years in my classic pulsar 150 without any problem.
im mixing brands and rating of oils from nearly 1.5 years and 28k kms in my ZMR and again no problem.
though i suffer from clunky gearshift say every 800-1000kms and then i clean the chain, lube it and voila no clunky gearshifts.

[B7ACKTHORN]

i have used CRB plus 20w40 4 years in my classic pulsar 150 without any problem.
im mixing brands and rating of oils from nearly 1.5 years and 28k kms in my ZMR and again no problem.
though i suffer from clunky gearshift say every 800-1000kms and then i clean the chain, lube it and voila no clunky gearshifts.

Different grade, different brand, all at the same time, with both of these bikes?

I myself have mixed different oils, but not of different grades. And not all know the difference between the motorcycle oil uses and a four wheeler uses. So this can be real eye opener. It really depends. For some the experience might be good, for some neutral, for some no difference at all.

But I'd suggest not to use CRB with Petronas, or Motul with CRB. Just as an example, I mentioned the aforementioned oils.

I myself know a guy who runs his moped with part fork oil, used oil and 0.5 quart CRB oil. I even posted this thing in another forum as a humor. Ultimately it's your bike, you know when it asks for a service, when it's gonna go kaput all by its signs.

If we can but 250 rupees can of CRB, why can't we spend 50 to 100 bucks more and get a graded one? It's not so hard, right

Anyways, just a thought!

Cheers!
VJ

[Honda_CBF]

CRB for Rs 250? Guys if you want cheap and good oils in 20w40 grade then there are many oils at around 200Rs a litter, namely, HP racer 4t, servo, mak, valvoline champ, valvoline champion etc.. And all these oils confirm to JASO MA so no clutch issues. Also diesel oils of 15w40 or higher grades don't contain any friction modifiers/ busters, reason being, diesel engine don't need them. Diesel in itself is an oil, have personally seen a bolero been driven without any engine oil for more than 5kms NOTHING happened to engine..

[Mzee_Maverik]

Different grade, different brand, all at the same time, with both of these bikes?

I myself have mixed different oils, but not of different grades. And not all know the difference between the motorcycle oil uses and a four wheeler uses. So this can be real eye opener. It really depends. For some the experience might be good, for some neutral, for some no difference at all.

But I'd suggest not to use CRB with Petronas, or Motul with CRB. Just as an example, I mentioned the aforementioned oils.

I myself know a guy who runs his moped with part fork oil, used oil and 0.5 quart CRB oil. I even posted this thing in another forum as a humor. Ultimately it's your bike, you know when it asks for a service, when it's gonna go kaput all by its signs.

If we can but 250 rupees can of CRB, why can't we spend 50 to 100 bucks more and get a graded one? It's not so hard, right

Anyways, just a thought!

Cheers!
VJ

Pulsar needs 1l quantity of engine oil and 1l oil is easily available no mixing is not required. it worked fine for 4 years then a mech told me i was using a diesel oil then i started using valvoline.
In ZMR i need 1.1l of oil so if i have to buy a full synthetic oil(on trips), i cannot buy 2 cans so i mix.
1l motul 10w40+.1l shell AX7 10w40/gulf pride 4T+
1l Shell adv ultra 10w40+.1l shell AX7 10w40
1l honda FS 10w30+.1l shell AX7 10w40
these are my commonly used mixtures.

[muztariq]

If we can but 250 rupees can of CRB, why can't we spend 50 to 100 bucks more and get a graded one? It's not so hard, right

Why 250??.. Pouch pack of Gulf 20w40 was reported 180 rs /l sometime back by a user... thats the cheapest and best for most of the 10w30/20w40 rated motorcycle.

Moreover, its clearly mentioned on Gulf Pride 20w40 and Pulsar DTSi 10,000 - 20W50 oil that these can be used upto 10,000 kms. Just 10 oil changes per 1 lakh km. They will be the cheapest in overall cost benefit!

Oils are a vast topic.. you may find someone riding a bike for 2,00,000 kms on car specific oil without any problem(someone reported that he is using Mobil 1 - FS oil from three years in his pulsar without an iota of a problem) and people riding their Honda cubs on 'cooking oil' (posted by Pinakiji sometime back).. they are happy too.

You may also find ppl who never changed oil in there respective machines for 1,00,000 kms.. they dont even know that oil needs to be changed in a vehicle. The sludge kept on builing and one day the engine siezed - But please note - The car ran 1,00,000 or more kms on one fill!!

Read an interesting oil change story here - Umm..Need Advice...VANOS job in progress after 40k on an oil change - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
This guy never changed his car's oil in 60,000 miles (96,560 kms, please note the owner first claimed 40K but later told the truth that its 60K) - He never even topped up! and drove the vehicle to the shop.. imagine if he didnt change the oil for 50,000 km and then started changing oil and oil filter every 5,000 km - the engine would have looked new at the moment!!

For those who are mixing oils, using any oil, doing whatever - It really doesn't matter in the short run. Please note the unlubricated parts does undergo chemical reaction and rust buildup.. which is not perceivable in the near future.

I can assure you guys that mixing 100 ml of cooking oil(even used) with your normal oil will not do anything to your bike's performance.

In the end its your bike! Choose whats best. If you can avoid mixing, why not. If you cant - You cant! Its simple.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Why 250??.. Pouch pack of Gulf 20w40 was reported 180 rs /l sometime back by a user... thats the cheapest and best for most of the 10w30/20w40 rated motorcycle.

Moreover, its clearly mentioned on Gulf Pride 20w40 and Pulsar DTSi 10,000 - 20W50 oil that these can be used upto 10,000 kms. Just 10 oil changes per 1 lakh km. They will be the cheapest in overall cost benefit!

Oils are a vast topic.. you may find someone riding a bike for 2,00,000 kms on car specific oil without any problem(someone reported that he is using Mobil 1 - FS oil from three years in his pulsar without an iota of a problem) and people riding their Honda cubs on 'cooking oil' (posted by Pinakiji sometime back).. they are happy too.

You may also find ppl who never changed oil in there respective machines for 1,00,000 kms.. they dont even know that oil needs to be changed in a vehicle. The sludge kept on builing and one day the engine siezed - But please note - The car ran 1,00,000 or more kms on one fill!!

Read an interesting oil change story here - Umm..Need Advice...VANOS job in progress after 40k on an oil change - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
This guy never changed his car's oil in 60,000 miles (96,560 kms, please note the owner first claimed 40K but later told the truth that its 60K) - He never even topped up! and drove the vehicle to the shop.. imagine if he didnt change the oil for 50,000 km and then started changing oil and oil filter every 5,000 km - the engine would have looked new at the moment!!

For those who are mixing oils, using any oil, doing whatever - It really doesn't matter in the short run. Please note the unlubricated parts does undergo chemical reaction and rust buildup.. which is not perceivable in the near future.

I can assure you guys that mixing 100 ml of cooking oil(even used) with your normal oil will not do anything to your bike's performance.

In the end its your bike! Choose whats best. If you can avoid mixing, why not. If you cant - You cant! Its simple.

Bro this topic is endless, one can start, one can end and it go on and on and on. To put it simple as I've stated and as you've stated, ultimately it's ones bike. Some guys run with different grades. I just don't want others to do that. It equally has its own pros and cons. Simple

Pulsar needs 1l quantity of engine oil and 1l oil is easily available no mixing is not required. it worked fine for 4 years then a mech told me i was using a diesel oil then i started using valvoline.
In ZMR i need 1.1l of oil so if i have to buy a full synthetic oil(on trips), i cannot buy 2 cans so i mix.
1l motul 10w40+.1l shell AX7 10w40/gulf pride 4T+
1l Shell adv ultra 10w40+.1l shell AX7 10w40
1l honda FS 10w30+.1l shell AX7 10w40
these are my commonly used mixtures.

Right. See, so the devil is in the details. The right grades, with some discrepancy should do just fine.

Cheers!
VJ

[Mzee_Maverik]

Right. See, so the devil is in the details. The right grades, with some discrepancy should do just fine.

Cheers!
VJ

i have also mixed 10w40 Shell AX7 with motul 300v/5100 15w50 which i forgot to add

My next change will be mobil1 delvac 1300 15w40, if i get one in lucknow.

[pioneeraron]

i have also mixed 10w40 Shell AX7 with motul 300v/5100 15w50 which i forgot to add

My next change will be mobil1 delvac 1300 15w40, if i get one in lucknow.

Avoid Mobil1 Delvac.It's for 4wheeler diesel engines.It won't harm ur engine but might screw up ur clutch plates in the long run.

[mid]

Mobil Delvac, shell Rotella T(synthetic) etc are heavy duty oils with better engine protection and are not energy conserving(non energy conserving oils work as fine as motorcycle oils and cause no clutch slippage). and they are damn cheap comparing to motorcycle specific oils. These oils are used by motorcyclist worldwide. Even by members in this forum.
Note: energy conserving oils contains friction modifiers affecting clutch slippage and r not for wet clutch application.

[muztariq]

Avoid Mobil1 Delvac.It's for 4wheeler diesel engines.It won't harm ur engine but might screw up ur clutch plates in the long run.

post 5504 here.. The whole world is using it..

https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universal-threads/4789-engine-oils-551.html

[Pinaki]

I don't know whether you ask this question out of sarcasm or you really wanted to know the stuff...
I myself have did it twice in my bike. At first here doesn't seem to be any performance issues, but once the bikes get heated and their molecular structure starts to change, you can see your gears become clunky and the engine harshness, if not immediately.

Second, I know many people who use CRB, engine and say the performance engine oils. They themselves go to the shop, buy a can, and now it's become a habit many people, at least in my hometown, go to a shop, ask engine oil, the seller gives them CRB, which clearly says it's for DIESEL ENGINE.

But the users say the engine is smooth et cetera. Yes of couse it gotta be smooth due to the friction busters used in it. But sooner or later you're gonna burn your plates and reduce your engine life soon. I've seen it in person and it's been the case with two vehicles.
So never mix oils with Different Grade, plus different brand...

I was surprised that you had a real problem with mixed oil . That problem of clunky gearshifts & engine harshness is owing to general engine overheating , may or may not be owing to the oil . As long as you do not arrive at a vastly different grade of oil by mixing 2 oils , than the grade that is correct for your engine for the operating conditions - you are very unlikely to have an oil problem . Castrol's CRB/CRP-plus used to be marketed at a petrol+diesel(both CF & SF markings on the pack) rated oil just sometime back and was widely in use in 2-stroke motorcycles we rode in our youth . Now they have changed the rating to diesel only , but since diesel rated oils do not have any components that are incompatible with the operation of petrol engines in any way , or wet clutches either - there should be no problem using it . Infact Castrol CRB-Plus is a semi-synthetic oil and runs very well indeed in motorcycles etc under stress and heat . Provided of course that the bike runs the 20w40 grade well . But you are right , with the current market price revisions , CRB-plus has gone quite costly and there is no longer any price advantage to using it - over regular motorcycle oils .
Note that , none of the diesel engine oils that I know here have ANY friction modifiers in it , only some of the petrol-only rated 4-wheeler oils may be having it .

[hotheadbeast]

huh ? pick up oil ? never heard of it, its never advisable to fill more oil than is required to, how much do they usually fill ?
and , one more thing, do they usually charge you extra for this "pick up" oil ?

P.S: Dont fall for this kinda tricks from them , some even talk you into filling extra additive with oil to make engine smoother and blah blah blah, dont add any such thing, just use good oil of recommended grade and brands and your bike will perform very well.

cheers
ride safe
Krishna

ya they charged me 150 rs for that......

Pick-up oil is very bad ... go to the ASC and ask them to take out their pick-up oil from your bike and return your money that they took for it , else complain to Bajaj-auto in writing , attach photocopy the cash-memo/s they gave you after servicing .

else i thought it was helpfull for engine... thanx for telling, i'll get it changed...

[krish2778]

Its best to get an oil change ASAP.

If you don't mind, do an engine flush, will help in cleaning the dirt particles in the engine too. But it has a procedure and quantity in which it should be used, be sure to learn that before using engine flush,

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

ya they charged me 150 rs for that......



else i thought it was helpfull for engine... thanx for telling, i'll get it changed...

[B7ACKTHORN]

I was surprised that you had a real problem with mixed oil . That problem of clunky gearshifts & engine harshness is owing to general engine overheating , may or may not be owing to the oil . As long as you do not arrive at a vastly different grade of oil by mixing 2 oils , than the grade that is correct for your engine for the operating conditions - you are very unlikely to have an oil problem . Castrol's CRB/CRP-plus used to be marketed at a petrol+diesel(both CF & SF markings on the pack) rated oil just sometime back and was widely in use in 2-stroke motorcycles we rode in our youth . Now they have changed the rating to diesel only , but since diesel rated oils do not have any components that are incompatible with the operation of petrol engines in any way , or wet clutches either - there should be no problem using it . Infact Castrol CRB-Plus is a semi-synthetic oil and runs very well indeed in motorcycles etc under stress and heat . Provided of course that the bike runs the 20w40 grade well . But you are right , with the current market price revisions , CRB-plus has gone quite costly and there is no longer any price advantage to using it - over regular motorcycle oils .
Note that , none of the diesel engine oils that I know here have ANY friction modifiers in it , only some of the petrol-only rated 4-wheeler oils may be having it .

I completely agree to most of the points you've stated above. Indeed my mech recommends to many people to use the CRB, and nowadays even the customer himself gets the CRB as default. You name any brand of a scooter, bike out there, at least in my town 5 in 10 would have CRB.

I have nothing to complain about CRB. Yes it's oil after all. But what I would like to stress for all the guys is to just try avoiding different grades of different oils. I don't think me mentioning not to "mix" same grade oils.

I mean, I love my bikes/cars whatever it may be, so I just wanted to make sure everyone does the same. But hey, still it's freewill right (subject to change)

"I think we will stop the mixing oil element here" I think it's becoming sort of a drag here!

Cheers!
VJ

[SriKi.GSpian]

i want to know the approximate drain interval of the castrol activ 4t oil which is used for my gs150r by my svc!
and also shell ax7 and motul 3000 4t plus (as i want to purchase one among the two oils)