Engine Oils

[B7ACKTHORN]

@Vj, will be waiting for the update on DIY...

I'd like to see it first on the DIY section. I'm scared of removing the chain from the sprockets. (newbie)

Sprocket removal is not big a thing, if you're willing to get your hands dirty, it's all it takes. First, go to your mechanic, and learn some stuffs, if he's kind enough to let you know or just sit there and watch how he does thigns. But importantly you need "TOOLS" Without good tools it's not gonna be a good start.

Cheers!
VJ

[Pinaki]

... Sprocket removal is not big a thing, if you're willing to get your hands dirty ..

[B7ACKTHORN]

Absolutely right. I shouldn't have mentioned CHAIN REMOVAL, not sprocket removal, blunder! It just came in a flow, god damn it, just laughing at myself! Perhaps we all need to learn, someone gotta do that DIY, awaiting eagerly

Cheers!
VJ

[Ash_win]

I use Servo - MP3 grease, lithium multi - purpose grease it says on the label! paid like 125 for a tub. I mainly use it coz Tru spray is really thin, i mean it works well on an o ring chain ( ASC guy told me) but not on our ordinary chain. So i clean the chain with diesel first then apply a thin layer of lube (Considering its costly - 333 for a can of tru spray). allow it to dry and then lavishly apply grease all over the chain inside and out also on sprockets. @Ateesh - i'm glad i'm doin all these now, couple of months back i hardly knew how to ride a bike! yes @VJ i really need a set of good tools! All i have now is my dads old rusty spanner set and some basic screw drivers. The problem is grease attracts a lot of dust and grit it turns black with in just 500kms or running, so i've to like open it every 2 months. I didn't find any EP90 oils here most petrol bunks stock just 2t and 4t oils and some grease. I need a substitute for grease, its a messy job when you open if for cleaning.

[B7ACKTHORN]

I use Servo - MP3 grease, lithium multi - purpose grease it says on the label! paid like 125 for a tub. I mainly use it coz Tru spray is really thin, i mean it works well on an o ring chain ( ASC guy told me) but not on our ordinary chain. So i clean the chain with diesel first then apply a thin layer of lube (Considering its costly - 333 for a can of tru spray). allow it to dry and then lavishly apply grease all over the chain inside and out also on sprockets. @Ateesh - i'm glad i'm doin all these now, couple of months back i hardly knew how to ride a bike! yes @VJ i really need a set of good tools! All i have now is my dads old rusty spanner set and some basic screw drivers. The problem is grease attracts a lot of dust and grit it turns black with in just 500kms or running, so i've to like open it every 2 months. I didn't find any EP90 oils here most petrol bunks stock just 2t and 4t oils and some grease. I need a substitute for grease, its a messy job when you open if for cleaning.

Exactly. Grease gets messy as it attracts dust very well,unlike oil it needs be removed/scrapped really well from the chain in order to get the grime removed. But that said, once you get your hands dirty, the rest just falls in place.

Cheers!
VJ

[chinmayakar]

Does anyone know from where can I get Motul 5100 in Navi Mumbai apart from Babloo Motors?
Thanks in advance

[s1d]

Does anyone know from where can I get Motul 5100 in Navi Mumbai apart from Babloo Motors?
Thanks in advance

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/pit-stop-general-biking-discussion/5006-motul-distributors-17.html

btw did you punch the guy at Babloo motors ?

[BlrGuy]

Hi Ash_win,
You should be using gear oil SAE 90 for lubricating the chain as it is quick thick (viscous) and sustains high temperature. The chain too does get heated up as it is moving quite fast. SAE 90 small pack is available for about Rs. 130/- and should last for a long time even if you were to lube your chain every 500 kms. As you have experienced, grease is messy and allows fine grains of sand and dust to stick to it causing harm to the chain. Also cleaning the chain sprayed with grease is very difficult. Use kerosene for cleaning the chain as it removes dirt and grime before applying a generous layer of SAE 90 oil.

[deepan 63]

HELP - Mixing with mineral

Hello Bikers , i own Pulsar 150 UG3 . i use motul300v fully synthetic ... now the problem is i have a leaking problem in engine oil drain bolt . i dont know how to solve this problem whether to do welding works or changing the whole Engine case part !!! For emergency reasons, CAN I top up with Mineral oils when i already have fully synthetic in the engine ??? because i already lost few ml say 200ml by leakage ....

[madhav krishna]

Hello Bikers , i own Pulsar 150 UG3 . i use motul300v fully synthetic ... now the problem is i have a leaking problem in engine oil drain bolt . i dont know how to solve this problem whether to do welding works or changing the whole Engine case part !!! For emergency reasons, CAN I top up with Mineral oils when i already have fully synthetic in the engine ??? because i already lost few ml say 200ml by leakage ....

You sure about the leakage part?? Cuz the ester range oils of motul tend to evaporate quickly & moreover pulsars create a lot of heat which dries up oil way faster than other bikes. And yes you can use mineral oil to top up. Just make sure you use similar grade oil & try to use motul only.

[krish2778]

Firstly, how old is the oil that you are currently using ? Did you have a refill at any point of time ?

Secondly,Sure the leakage is form the drain bolt ? Is there any head leakage ?
If it's from the drain bolt, check if the crush washer on the drain bolt is damaged, if so change it.
Or was the engine drain bolt over-tightened with more torque by you or the svc people ? Causing the threads on the engine to be damaged ? If its the engine caseing thread problem, i guess it has to be rethreaded, which is a bother.
These are the only things i could think of.

Clear the crush washer thingy and the head leakage thingy, then we can worry about the rest.

Wouldn't recommend mixing oils, but since its just for the time being, it won't do any harm. If you can find same grade same manufacturer, it'd be great.

Hello Bikers , i own Pulsar 150 UG3 . i use motul300v fully synthetic ... now the problem is i have a leaking problem in engine oil drain bolt . i dont know how to solve this problem whether to do welding works or changing the whole Engine case part !!! For emergency reasons, CAN I top up with Mineral oils when i already have fully synthetic in the engine ??? because i already lost few ml say 200ml by leakage ....

I never faced a problem of excessive vaporization of oil(FS or SS) in my 220 when maintaining the correct drain interval. Never heard of a common trend as you suggested. Did you face such a problem in your bike ? Of course , missing the drain interval by a considerable amount of kms can cause the oil to evaporate, as its used up oil and not so thick and resistant as it was.

You sure about the leakage part?? Cuz the ester range oils of motul tend to evaporate quickly & moreover pulsars create a lot of heat which dries up oil way faster than other bikes. And yes you can use mineral oil to top up. Just make sure you use similar grade oil & try to use motul only.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

[deepan 63]

You sure about the leakage part?? Cuz the ester range oils of motul tend to evaporate quickly & moreover pulsars create a lot of heat which dries up oil way faster than other bikes. And yes you can use mineral oil to top up. Just make sure you use similar grade oil & try to use motul only.

Firstly, how old is the oil that you are currently using ? Did you have a refill at any point of time ?

Secondly,Sure the leakage is form the drain bolt ? Is there any head leakage ?
If it's from the drain bolt, check if the crush washer on the drain bolt is damaged, if so change it.
Or was the engine drain bolt over-tightened with more torque by you or the svc people ? Causing the threads on the engine to be damaged ? If its the engine caseing thread problem, i guess it has to be rethreaded, which is a bother.
These are the only things i could think of.



Clear the crush washer thingy and the head leakage thingy, then we can worry about the rest.

Wouldn't recommend mixing oils, but since its just for the time being, it won't do any harm. If you can find same grade same manufacturer, it'd be great.



I never faced a problem of excessive vaporization of oil(FS or SS) in my 220 when maintaining the correct drain interval. Never heard of a common trend as you suggested. Did you face such a problem in your bike ? Of course , missing the drain interval by a considerable amount of kms can cause the oil to evaporate, as its used up oil and not so thick and resistant as it was.




Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Thanks madhav and krish . yes it is in draining bolt area for sure . jus 5 days before oil was changed krish .. previously i had small leaking in Cylinder head when i start using Motul FS , that became normal after some days . but now i saw some oil on the floor where my bike stands . my local mechanic tested , while the bolt was tightened it was rotating non stop . it dint fix !!!! he told the threads in draining area was gone and needs some lethe works !!!! Motul mineral is available in our area , if i want FS then i have to travel 60kms to get it , so in case i thought for an emergence the minerals could help . you cleared it . once again thanks for ur suggestion .

[Honda_CBF]

Thanks madhav and krish . yes it is in draining bolt area for sure . jus 5 days before oil was changed krish .. previously i had small leaking in Cylinder head when i start using Motul FS , that became normal after some days . but now i saw some oil on the floor where my bike stands . my local mechanic tested , while the bolt was tightened it was rotating non stop . it dint fix !!!! he told the threads in draining area was gone and needs some lethe works !!!! Motul mineral is available in our area , if i want FS then i have to travel 60kms to get it , so in case i thought for an emergence the minerals could help . you cleared it . once again thanks for ur suggestion .

you may also use M-Seal as a temporary fix..

[madhav krishna]

I never faced a problem of excessive vaporization of oil(FS or SS) in my 220 when maintaining the correct drain interval. Never heard of a common trend as you suggested. Did you face such a problem in your bike ? Of course , missing the drain interval by a considerable amount of kms can cause the oil to evaporate, as its used up oil and not so thick and resistant as it was.

Well heard a lot of times regarding the oil drying up issue just after 1000-1500kms in the ester range of motul in this very same thread long ago. And yeah even my bike did face the same issue around 1300kms of oil usage. Regarding the "pulsars generating more heat", saw a lot of friends with pulsars and many of them have low engine oil level even after just a few hundred kms of oil replacement. I myself topped up the oil level of a friend & it again dipped down to low level just in a few hundred kms.

Note:- Organic compounds (Esters) are more volatile than non-organic compounds. But then again that's just theory.

[deepan 63]

Little Off Topic

you may also use M-Seal as a temporary fix..

how this idea dint come to my mind ? . thanks bro .. What do you think about lethe works for threads ?? is it reliable or can i change that particular case area ?? how much will it cost ?? any ideas ??