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  • Re: Engine Oils

    Originally posted by Girish... View Post
    ...
    Whole can again :-( and that too wont be used completely till end.. :-!
    If you ask that way then
    will you risk topping up with oil of different grade & make?

    I've couple of friends who stick by a brand & grade. They purchase multiple Cans or multi-litre Can of that make-grade.
    There is no honest path to prosperity - KoKa
    Useful Resources Over Internet

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    • Re: Engine Oils

      I really wonder why it is such a problem for most motorists to keep just one kind of oil at a time in the engine! People are so fidgety about the thing! So simple: just make it a thumb rule to be sure its the oil of same grade, of same brand at any given point of time and be happy. Its the best thing you can ever do for your engine as far as maintenance and care is concerned. Why the experiments, why the fidgeting, why so much wonderment about it! Does anyone really have proof that pouring the whole quantity of required oil from the same can really created problems? Or performance issues? No! Still...! I'll let you guys on a secret, actually most of the times, any issue faced is most probably originating from some other cause or reason and all everybody can think of is change the oil! Keep it easy guys! 😄

      Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

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      • Re: Engine Oils

        Originally posted by SparKot View Post
        And he was initially using ???

        please add a reference(link) to the news.


        Why switch to Motul-7100 20w50 if it was an amazing experience with Elf-Moto(FS)-4xt Tech?
        Well you can find refrence at site zigwheels.com

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        • Re: Engine Oils

          Originally posted by muztariq View Post
          I am using elf 15w40 performance 3d oil in my fazer and very happy with it. I have also used mobil 1300 super 15w40. Both oils work excellent in fazer. The elf oil is slightly thinner than mobil and the engine sound is heard more. Both oils last 3000 km and costs less than 280.
          These are hdeo, use at your own risk.

          Sent from my GT-I9082 using xBhp Connect mobile app
          Sorry dint get hdeo part.. What does that mean?
          And are those mineral or ss oils u mentioned? Coz AFAIK, mineral ones cost around 300 and fs around 600 to 800..

          Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
          I have seen SVC guys pouring 20W40 oil in Fazer's and FZ's. Don't know why Yamaha hasn't updated the manual.

          What oil have you been using before Motul? Yamalube only has 20W40 (for Fazer's & FZ's) and 15W50 (for R15).

          Cheerz!!
          Default one at svc is 20W40, yamalube.. Initially that was used in my fazer, mineral one. Then i switched to elf fs, i guess it was 15W50..dont remember exactly.. And now motul 7100 20W50 :-)

          Originally posted by SparKot View Post
          If you ask that way then
          will you risk topping up with oil of different grade & make?

          I've couple of friends who stick by a brand & grade. They purchase multiple Cans or multi-litre Can of that make-grade.
          Nothing is cheap if you consider fs :-P so will buy one when it gets vaporized 👍

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          • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

            This seems like the right thread so posting my experience here.

            My P135 had clocked 23K when I decided that enough of the shitty AGIP (straight out of the drum) mineral oil (billed as fully synthetic by the SVC by the way). I drove to Sector 9, Noida to Swati Automobiles and asked for the Motul 7100 20W50. However, he only had the 15W50 300v which is meant for the bigger bikes. The shopkeeper was frank enough to tell that it's not generally used in the P135 as he uses the same in his Ninja.

            After 15 minutes of hesitation and a smoke, I just decided to go with it. And I cannot tell you how happy I am with the bike's performance. The bike is much more calm (I do miss the grunt a bit..), visibly massive reduction in vibes, hard gearshifts and false neutrals are a thing of the past and the bike exhibits an all-round refinement that I was previously unaware of. Current reading on odometer - 25,477 as of today.

            And here's the useful/enlightening/interesting bit. I got the oil changed just before service and then went to Dewan Auto (Okhla Ph-III) for service. When I told the SVC advisor to not change the engine oil, he immediately called for the SVC manager who sung praises of the AGIP oil and told me that you should get the oil changed from the SVC and not outside otherwise it is not considered as a service. I in turn refused to budge and criticized the drum oil and asked if they had Motul's fully synthetic oil. After a lot of talk, he finally agreed to service the bike under "Repair" and agreed to have the Motul 7100 10W50 poured from the next service.

            Now my dilemma is that the SVC mechanic that works on my bike is fixed and does an efficient job every time so not really keen to get it serviced by someone else. However, the 300v has won me over and I am not sure if I would want to switch to 7100 10W50 as that's used in the D390, a completely different animal.


            I am also aware that the recommended grade for P135 is 20W50 but I have also read a lot about the fact that it's ok as long as it is xW50. 15W50 seemed feasible, the worry is that opting for 10W50 might be a case of going over the top. Any advice?
            Last edited by Abhinav Nayyar; 04-30-2014, 10:25 PM.
            On my bike till kingdom comes..

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            • Re: Easily available 20W50 grade synthetic engine oil

              Originally posted by abhasbajpai View Post
              I have a discover 125T (2k On ODO), now i want to change the Oil, i am not satisfied with bajaj 10000, so want to go for fully synthetic oil, I am from lucknow, so availability of so called 'exotic' things are limited here.
              i want to know which will be a good easily available 20W50 grade synthetic engine oil, castrol power 1 racing is available but then it is 10W50 and i need 20W50.
              Your bike has done 2k odo. I assume your bike is under warranty. You should stay on mineral oil to be changed at svc at alternate services or depending upon kms.
              If you expect better than according to availability in your area i would recommend castrol power 1 racing 10w50 fs and not any ss from castrol. Its really good oil might cost around 700rs. Yes, its safe to use and suitable for long rides in hot summers as it has best Viscosity Index. Don't go for any other castrol product mineral or ss, fakes are available too. Always buy from good reputed dealer with invoice bill.

              Tapatalk

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              • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                Originally posted by Abhinav Nayyar View Post

                I am also aware that the recommended grade for P135 is 20W50 but I have also read a lot about the fact that it's ok as long as it is xW50. 15W50 seemed feasible, the worry is that opting for 10W50 might be a case of going over the top. Any advice?
                You can use 10w50 if your bike doesn't consume oil. Experience and learn. 10w50 will be good for smooth rides during winter.
                Never ever insist using barrel oil, we don't what is contained in it.

                Tapatalk

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                • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                  The lower case in 10w50 dosen't make that much difference, but you should not drop the 50 no to 40, as you live in lucknow and it is going to be pretty hot in summers.

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                  • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                    Originally posted by Abhinav Nayyar View Post
                    I am also aware that the recommended grade for P135 is 20W50 but I have also read a lot about the fact that it's ok as long as it is xW50. 15W50 seemed feasible, the worry is that opting for 10W50 might be a case of going over the top. Any comments?
                    1. whatever the company make sure oil is JASO-MA2(at least JASO-MA) certified
                    2. considering 20W50, 20 will be grade of base oil & additives are added to raise this to 50 @1000C. Effectively in 20w50, +30 is from additives. Similarly +35 in 15w50 & +40 in 10w50. There is too much onus/burden on additives in 10w50 in comparison with those in 15w50 and 20w50. I would prefer 20w50 first, then 15w50 & lastly 10w50;

                    Or so is my understanding.
                    Last edited by SparKot; 05-01-2014, 12:18 AM.
                    There is no honest path to prosperity - KoKa
                    Useful Resources Over Internet

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                    • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                      Originally posted by SparKot View Post
                      1. whatever the company make sure oil is JASO-MA2(at least JASO-MA) certified
                      2. considering 20W50, 20 will be grade of base oil & additives are added to raise this to 50 @1000C. Effectively in 20w50, +30 is from additives. Similarly +35 in 15w50 & +40 in 10w50. There is too much onus/burden on additives in 10w50 in comparison with those in 15w50 and 20w50. I would prefer 20w50 first, then 15w50 & lastly 10w50; Or so is my understanding.

                      Any examples for 10w50 Fully-Synths?
                      Again a post that would start a debate.. but still I would try to explain my understanding.

                      20w 10w etc is not viscosity as in w40 w50.. these terms are not linked and cant be compared.

                      20w and 10w etc is just the cranking viscosity.. whereas w40 w50 are kinematic viscosity.

                      A 5w50 may well have no vii polymers at all. It depends on the oil.

                      A w40 oil is made by mixing w30 oil with vii polymers which does not allow oil to thin to w30 level at 100'C. Now this oil is tested for cranking viscosity, if it passes 20w its 20w40, if it passes 10w it is 10w40.

                      The manufacturing of oil may also be discussed w.r.t letter before w. If you want a 5w50 oil, you would select a very thin fs oil which meets 5w criteria. Lets call it s 5w base oil. Then you would test its kinematic viscosity which would be around w30. Now you would add 'few' vii polymers which would not let the oil thin to w30 level but stop the thinning to w50 level. This oil would again be tested for its 5w efficacy. Lets say it shifts to 10w level, then some pour point additives would be added to oil to meet this 5w criteria. Nowhere a 5w oil is loaded with vii polymers to make it w50. One cant compare letter before w to letter after w as these are different.

                      Sent from my GT-I9082 using xBhp Connect mobile app
                      Last edited by muztariq; 05-01-2014, 12:55 AM.

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                      • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                        Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                        ... If you want a 5w50 oil, you would select a very thin fs oil which meets 5w criteria. Lets call it s 5w base oil. Then you would test its kinematic viscosity which would be around w30. Now you would add 'few' vii polymers which would not let the oil thin to w30 level but stop the thinning to w50 level...
                        Oh, I didn't think that way, a base oil with cranking viscosity 5w (@room temp) can have kinematic viscosity of w30 (@1000C). It makes sense now.

                        What will be the kinematic viscosity of this base oil @room temp? Just to have an idea about how its(base oil) kinematic viscosity varies between room temp & 1000C.
                        Last edited by SparKot; 05-01-2014, 01:05 AM.
                        There is no honest path to prosperity - KoKa
                        Useful Resources Over Internet

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                        • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                          Originally posted by SparKot View Post
                          Oh, I didn't think that way, a base oil with cranking viscosity 5w (@room temp) can have kinematic viscosity of w30 (@1000C). It make sense.

                          What will be the kinematic viscosity of this base oil @room temp? Just to have an idea about how it's(base oil) kinematic viscosity varies between room temp & 1000C.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Engine Oils : Motul 300v Factory Line in P135

                            Got it, fully-synth base oils are not like mineral base oils. Am I right?

                            To explain:
                            Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                            ...
                            The manufacturing of oil may also be discussed w.r.t letter before w. If you want a 5w50 oil, you would select a very thin fs oil which meets 5w criteria. Lets call it s 5w base oil. Then you would test its kinematic viscosity which would be around w30...
                            If rephrased, above 5w base oil is already(without any additives) a SAE J 300 5w30 grade fully-synth, no?
                            Last edited by SparKot; 05-01-2014, 02:15 AM.
                            There is no honest path to prosperity - KoKa
                            Useful Resources Over Internet

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                            • Re: Engine Oils

                              Hello all
                              My pulsar200 ns has done 6000 kms and till now i have been using motul 3000 and 5100 but now i want to change oil to full synthetic .
                              But 7100 or 300v is not available , so please suggest other brand which are good.

                              Sent from my ST27i using xBhp Connect mobile app

                              Comment


                              • Re: Engine Oils

                                Originally posted by maninderz View Post
                                Hello all
                                My pulsar200 ns has done 6000 kms and till now i have been using motul 3000 and 5100 but now i want to change oil to full synthetic .
                                But 7100 or 300v is not available , so please suggest other brand which are good.

                                Sent from my ST27i using xBhp Connect mobile app
                                Never ever use 300v, not worth the money,
                                If you can I will still suggest you to continue using 5100/3100 this time. From next time (odo >10k) ,You can use 7100 without sweat. Otherwse it's your call.
                                Castrol activ (750₹/litre) ,valvoline 4t premium has some good reviews, but they don't perform as well as motul.

                                Sent from my LG-P765 using xBhp Connect mobile app

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