Shall await your report on the Yamalube.
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Id been using the Honda oil ever since i bought the Uni. But ive always asked the mech at Planet Honda to change the oil when i drop her off for a service.Originally posted by HydBiker View PostA little surprise... not a shock though. But then, this is not the first time u used the Honda oil by any means... how was it earlier?
Shall await your report on the Yamalube.
Never got around to seeing the condition of the oil when drained.
On saturday, i got the oil changed by the mech who service my dad's P150. Hence the revelation.
Will keep you posted on the performance of my Uni vis-a-vis Yamalube
Thanks for all the guidance KP...
Cheers..!!I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.
-Homer J Simpson
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Gosh mate, thats not the way you can evaluate an oil! The oils turning black means its been cleaning your engine well!! What would you want... the oil to remain nice and clean; and your engine to turn jet black with sludge?!?!Originally posted by MavericK46 View PostI wasn't happy with the effective drain interval of the Honda oil mate
When i drained the oil on Saturday after 2200kms, the oil was jet black and was flowing very freely. It had nearly lost all its viscosity.
I'd bought the Yamalube for my dad's P150 Dts-i v1. Since i had another pack, i decided to try it.
So far so good...
Time to switch bikes and oil brands too now

And you can't really judge that its "lost all its viscosity" in that way either. Its a li'l more complicated than that...!
Besides, you also said you let the mech do the changes... and you weren't present. So you cannot even be sure what he used or how much of it! I'd suggest you take these factors into consideration before bashing the Honda oil.
And I'm not trying to shield the Honda oil. Never used it in fact. But AFAIK its also made by Idemitsu... and I think they make decent oil for Hero Honda. And I'v been using that in my bike till date.
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Watch out: Adulterated oil
Ok. Here is something that all of us here might want to watch out for. Yesterday night, I was talking to a bullet mechanic near his garage. A APE diesel auto arrives and a chap, allegedly from Shivajinagar alights with a big barrel in hand. This chap asks the mechanic for all the used oil kept for disposing. The mechanic hurls a couple of abuses in Urdu and tells the chap to buzz off. The chap backs off, shrugs and pushes off. The mechanic turns to me and starts cursing the guy and says that these people collect used oil, decolorize the oil and then sell a few barrels to a few showrooms for 30 bucks a liter
. Phew! He says that this is a major racket running in Bangalore. So, guys beware of the oils that come in nondescript barrels. It usually is recycled/decolorized oil which isn't half as good as new, branded oils. Watch out.
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For all you know, the bloody B!$#%#$ at the service station wouldn't have replaced your engine oil and would have yet billed you for it. I've seen this happen and if you ask what the hell happened, they will conveniently start blaming some other mechanic who would coincidentally have gone home early. even when I serviced my LB500, I found the engine oil to be changed but it was just around the halfway mark. So, yet another bout of abusing, tantrum throwing and screaming to get the job done. AFAIK, the best thing to do is to get the oil changed in front of your eyes.Originally posted by MavericK46 View PostI wasn't happy with the effective drain interval of the Honda oil mate
When i drained the oil on Saturday after 2200kms, the oil was jet black and was flowing very freely. It had nearly lost all its viscosity.
I'd bought the Yamalube for my dad's P150 Dts-i v1. Since i had another pack, i decided to try it.
So far so good...
Time to switch bikes and oil brands too now
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Originally posted by Raccoon View PostGosh mate, thats not the way you can evaluate an oil! The oils turning black means its been cleaning your engine well!! What would you want... the oil to remain nice and clean; and your engine to turn jet black with sludge?!?!
And you can't really judge that its "lost all its viscosity" in that way either. Its a li'l more complicated than that...!
Besides, you also said you let the mech do the changes... and you weren't present. So you cannot even be sure what he used or how much of it! I'd suggest you take these factors into consideration before bashing the Honda oil.
And I'm not trying to shield the Honda oil. Never used it in fact. But AFAIK its also made by Idemitsu... and I think they make decent oil for Hero Honda. And I'v been using that in my bike till date.Originally posted by jayprashanth View PostOk. Here is something that all of us here might want to watch out for. Yesterday night, I was talking to a bullet mechanic near his garage. A APE diesel auto arrives and a chap, allegedly from Shivajinagar alights with a big barrel in hand. This chap asks the mechanic for all the used oil kept for disposing. The mechanic hurls a couple of abuses in Urdu and tells the chap to buzz off. The chap backs off, shrugs and pushes off. The mechanic turns to me and starts cursing the guy and says that these people collect used oil, decolorize the oil and then sell a few barrels to a few showrooms for 30 bucks a liter
. Phew! He says that this is a major racket running in Bangalore. So, guys beware of the oils that come in nondescript barrels. It usually is recycled/decolorized oil which isn't half as good as new, branded oils. Watch out.Point duly noted. Will give Idemitsu another shotOriginally posted by jayprashanth View PostFor all you know, the bloody B!$#%#$ at the service station wouldn't have replaced your engine oil and would have yet billed you for it. I've seen this happen and if you ask what the hell happened, they will conveniently start blaming some other mechanic who would coincidentally have gone home early. even when I serviced my LB500, I found the engine oil to be changed but it was just around the halfway mark. So, yet another bout of abusing, tantrum throwing and screaming to get the job done. AFAIK, the best thing to do is to get the oil changed in front of your eyes.
Now have to decide on the oil to be used for the 100km change on my Zma
Any suggestions..?I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.
-Homer J Simpson
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Didnt u ask the mech what they do with the used oil? Do they give it for recycling? If yes, where?Originally posted by jayprashanth View PostOk. Here is something that all of us here might want to watch out for. Yesterday night, I was talking to a bullet mechanic near his garage. A APE diesel auto arrives and a chap, allegedly from Shivajinagar alights with a big barrel in hand. This chap asks the mechanic for all the used oil kept for disposing. The mechanic hurls a couple of abuses in Urdu and tells the chap to buzz off. The chap backs off, shrugs and pushes off. The mechanic turns to me and starts cursing the guy and says that these people collect used oil, decolorize the oil and then sell a few barrels to a few showrooms for 30 bucks a liter
. Phew! He says that this is a major racket running in Bangalore. So, guys beware of the oils that come in nondescript barrels. It usually is recycled/decolorized oil which isn't half as good as new, branded oils. Watch out.
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Thank you Hyd Biker for ur reply, I relly appreciate for taking time for me. first when I saw Krishna I didn't get u but later in the messages I finally got that.
And also does ignition has to do anything with the engine oil.I recently bought an gladiator RS and in the morning I have to kick 20-25 times to start the bike and also its misfiring.
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Check the following first:Originally posted by uday_nugur View PostThank you Hyd Biker for ur reply, I relly appreciate for taking time for me. first when I saw Krishna I didn't get u but later in the messages I finally got that.
And also does ignition has to do anything with the engine oil.I recently bought an gladiator RS and in the morning I have to kick 20-25 times to start the bike and also its misfiring.
1. Idling rpm.
2. Spark plug clearance
3. Get the carb tuned in your next service.
4. Use fuel from a good pump.
This should help your starting trouble. Even after this if it misfires, ask the Yam SS guys to check the SAI(Secondary Air Injection) unit. My F2 used to misfire initially due to that.Quench my thirst with gasoline!
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Uday, pls follow what R15Rocks told. Your Glady needs tuning.
Most Yamaha's I've seen based on the YBX engine (right from the Crux to the Glady) that have run over a hundred thousand KM's and start with the first kick. Rarely did I see the need for a second kick
Engine oil and petrol would help in better cold starts but the difference won't be huge. I used an RX 100 for about 2 years that needed about 5-7 kicks with choke in the morning. With Speed petrol it used to start in 2 kicks
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4T Plus is a standard used in the engine oil industry. 4T Plus oils are more advanced than the 4T oils. Did you check the JASO and API ratings of both the oils? if possible pls get a photo of both the cans - front & back.Originally posted by R15Rocks View PostWhat is the difference between Motul 3000V 4T&Motul 3000V 4T Plus? AFAIK, both are 20w40 grade. So is the former mineral&latter semi-synth?
P.S. KP, I know you'll answer this in no time!
Motul's 3000 series is for Mineral oils.
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I got that Plus is advanced, but in what way, if that is also mineral? Does it have any additives or something in it?Originally posted by HydBiker View Post4T Plus is a standard used in the engine oil industry. 4T Plus oils are more advanced than the 4T oils. Did you check the JASO and API ratings of both the oils? if possible pls get a photo of both the cans - front & back.
Motul's 3000 series is for Mineral oils.Quench my thirst with gasoline!
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