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**princesirohi** · 01-20-2012, 05:07 AM

recently my engine has started giving lot of noises, engine has become harsh. there is noise from crankshaft as well. the mechanic says even balancer shaft needs replacement since there is a constant tic tic tic sound at idling. this sound is different from tappet noise. clutch plates slip a lot specially after servicing and oil change, after riding some kms, clutch slippage gets reduced a bit since the fresh oil settles in.

so i am in a mood to use boric acid powder treatment. a few questions-

1) why do we have to mix it in 2t oil, why not in engine oil, which in my case is castrol power1. 2t oil is combustible and will get burned.

2) which grade boric acid is better medical grade or industrial grade. if it is industrial grade, where to get it.

i ride a P150 UG3 clocked around 90,000 kms - once changed the block, once rebored, several clutch plate changes done till date.

**Honda_CBF** · 01-20-2012, 08:28 AM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

1) why do we have to mix it in 2t oil, why not in engine oil, which in my case is castrol power1. 2t oil is combustible and will get burned.

2) which grade boric acid is better medical grade or industrial grade. if it is industrial grade, where to get it.

1) no idea why psr recommended this. May be mixing BA with 2t is easier than with 4t (because of its lighter grade; just my guess)
and btw, all oil (including 4t) burns at certain temperature.
2)industrial grade is superior than medical grade though the difference is marginal.
Btw, Have only used medical grade till date.
OT: is the 90k odo reading achieved on your latest re-bored engine or it is the total till date?

**psr** · 01-20-2012, 11:37 AM

Originally posted by Honda_CBF View Post

1) no idea why psr recommended this. May be mixing BA with 2t is easier than with 4t (because of its lighter grade; just my guess)
and btw, all oil (including 4t) burns at certain temperature.
2)industrial grade is superior than medical grade though the difference is marginal.
Btw, Have only used medical grade till date.
OT: is the 90k odo reading achieved on your latest re-bored engine or it is the total till date?

You are correct on all poits...2T was chosen since it is a lighter oil and easy to mix Boric acid in it...I had always used Chemist grade as it is easier to get than industrial grade and is available in smaller quantity without much trouble.

**psr** · 01-20-2012, 11:44 AM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

recently my engine has started giving lot of noises, engine has become harsh. there is noise from crankshaft as well. the mechanic says even balancer shaft needs replacement since there is a constant tic tic tic sound at idling. this sound is different from tappet noise. clutch plates slip a lot specially after servicing and oil change, after riding some kms, clutch slippage gets reduced a bit since the fresh oil settles in.

so i am in a mood to use boric acid powder treatment. a few questions-

1) why do we have to mix it in 2t oil, why not in engine oil, which in my case is castrol power1. 2t oil is combustible and will get burned.

2) which grade boric acid is better medical grade or industrial grade. if it is industrial grade, where to get it.

i ride a P150 UG3 clocked around 90,000 kms - once changed the block, once rebored, several clutch plate changes done till date.

If your engine is already, ready for rework then go ahead and try Boric Acid treatment...20Gms dissolved in either 2T or engine oil to be used with NEW ENGINE OIL. I recommend 2t because boric acid is easier to mix in light oil..
since i am able to source only Chemist grade in small quantity I use it...The higher the purity and SMALLER the particle, the better the effect...
I did take a big risk with my 20 K Kms run Lancer engine(now 35 k and in very good condition), but it worked out good and am happy .
Word of caution...What worked for me need not work for you.

**abhijitkn** · 01-20-2012, 12:19 PM

Hi psr ji,

What I read over www that Boric Acid additive can damage the clutch in motorcycles since it is a wet clutch. Some of them also shown the photographs of the sludge covered damaged clutch plates. My brother uses it often in his Ford Fiesta & he too experienced improvement in performance but not substantial increase in mileage.
Can it be used with Motul FS 15w50?
Also every time you have mentioned that "What worked for me need not work for you" any particular reason or did someone damaged the engine by using boric acid with incorrect qty?

**psr** · 01-20-2012, 12:51 PM

Originally posted by abhijitkn View Post

Hi psr ji,

What I read over www that Boric Acid additive can damage the clutch in motorcycles since it is a wet clutch. Some of them also shown the photographs of the sludge covered damaged clutch plates. My brother uses it often in his Ford Fiesta & he too experienced improvement in performance but not substantial increase in mileage.
Can it be used with Motul FS 15w50?
Also every time you have mentioned that "What worked for me need not work for you" any particular reason or did someone damaged the engine by using boric acid with incorrect qty?

My experiments had been on my engines first and later on other's..I am yet to get a negative report of engine problem or clutch problem due to the use of Boric Acid.
That said it is no guarantee that it will not happen,since there are many variables like purity,molecular size,pre-mix condition of engine, etc.,
So in the best interest of the user I always warn users not to go in for the experiments unless they are prepared to face the worst results,like I was.
I cannot take risk on any user's engine,at their expense, and expect them to suffer.
So my warnings are in good faith .
I normally use 20mg for every liter of engine oil,dissolved in 2T(it mixes well in light oil) and added to NEW ENGINE OIL.

**princesirohi** · 01-20-2012, 12:53 PM

Originally posted by Honda_CBF View Post

1) no idea why psr recommended this. May be mixing BA with 2t is easier than with 4t (because of its lighter grade; just my guess)
and btw, all oil (including 4t) burns at certain temperature.
2)industrial grade is superior than medical grade though the difference is marginal.
Btw, Have only used medical grade till date.
OT: is the 90k odo reading achieved on your latest re-bored engine or it is the total till date?

man, that 90,000 is total till date.

Originally posted by psr View Post

You are correct on all poits...2T was chosen since it is a lighter oil and easy to mix Boric acid in it...I had always used Chemist grade as it is easier to get than industrial grade and is available in smaller quantity without much trouble.

you re saying that it is difficult to mix boric acid poweder in 4 stroke engine oil. but isn't it a bad idea to mix 2t and 4t oils. both are exactly opposite to each other, one is made burn in engine and other is made not to get burnt.

have you ever tried to mix it in 4 stroke engine oil.

**psr** · 01-20-2012, 01:07 PM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

man, that 90,000 is total till date.

you re saying that it is difficult to mix boric acid poweder in 4 stroke engine oil. but isn't it a bad idea to mix 2t and 4t oils. both are exactly opposite to each other, one is made burn in engine and other is made not to get burnt.

have you ever tried to mix it in 4 stroke engine oil.

yes tried to dissolve in 4t 20w40 and found it difficult..lumps were formed and i had to keep stirring for a long time..the quantum of oil taken for this is about 40~50ml only..you can try dissolving it in 4t itself but it will take some time, and needs patience. mixing 40ml 2T in 1000ml of 4 T does not cause problem.

**princesirohi** · 01-20-2012, 01:40 PM

ok, so here is the procedure -- mix 20 gms boric acid in 40 ml 2t oil --> mix thoroughly --> then mix this combined mixture in 1000 ml new 4t oil--> put it in engine. ride for about 50 kms and relax.

how soon can i see and feel a change?

do we have to go for ride immediately after pouriing in the solution or after some time?

we have to do this when engine is hot or cold?

**sajjt** · 01-20-2012, 02:53 PM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

recently my engine has started giving lot of noises, engine has become harsh. there is noise from crankshaft as well. the mechanic says even balancer shaft needs replacement since there is a constant tic tic tic sound at idling. this sound is different from tappet noise. clutch plates slip a lot specially after servicing and oil change, after riding some kms, clutch slippage gets reduced a bit since the fresh oil settles in.

so i am in a mood to use boric acid powder treatment. a few questions-

1) why do we have to mix it in 2t oil, why not in engine oil, which in my case is castrol power1. 2t oil is combustible and will get burned.

2) which grade boric acid is better medical grade or industrial grade. if it is industrial grade, where to get it.

i ride a P150 UG3 clocked around 90,000 kms - once changed the block, once rebored, several clutch plate changes done till date.

Hi Prince,

There's a dare devil who tried all kinds of experiments which can bring an old engine to a new life

I've tried almost everything and got mixed results, some give good results during the usage and some- neutral effect. I've tried the BA treatment 2 years back but I could not notice any difference in performance. I was using the Acetone + 2T for years since then and it proved to be worth to try. The engine behaved more refined and free after this treatment. Xylene was not worth to try as per my observation. Anyways there's nothing wrong in trying all these tweaks except the BA as it has to be executed carefully, else it may block the oil filter and eventually ceacing the engine.

AFAIK, there's no side effects other than the silky smooth clutch and gears especially on older machines which are about to give up. So there's nothing wrong in giving a try.

Just read the below links for an update:
My Experience With adding Boric Acid in Engine oil - Team-BHP

My Experience With Adding Acetone in Petrol

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/12755-my-experience-adding-acetone-petrol.html

My Experience With Adding Acetone in Petrol

My Experience Of Adding 2T Oil In Fuel - Team-BHP

My Experience Of Adding Xylene in Petrol - Team-BHP

Adding Ethanol in Fuel - Team-BHP

Adding Engine oil with Diesel. - Team-BHP

**princesirohi** · 01-20-2012, 04:30 PM

does my bike have an oil filter? coz i am doubtful. how does it look like?
Pulsar 150 DTS-i (UG3)

**sajjt** · 01-20-2012, 04:55 PM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

does my bike have an oil filter? coz i am doubtful. how does it look like?
Pulsar 150 DTS-i (UG3)

Its inside the clutch case side oil sump. Its a square metal mesh for UG1 don't know about UG3.

**raghu123** · 01-20-2012, 06:22 PM

can i add 20gm boric acid with 1000 ml of 4t 20w40 For my Honda Activa ..

is 40ml 2t oil necessary .?
willl it give any performance change ?

any risk involved ???

**Honda_CBF** · 01-21-2012, 07:18 AM

Originally posted by raghu123 View Post

can i add 20gm boric acid with 1000 ml of 4t 20w40 For my Honda Activa ..

is 40ml 2t oil necessary .?
willl it give any performance change ?

any risk involved ???

mixing BA in 4t is difficult but can be done. Use mixer grinder to do so.
That's why 2t is said to be used.
And yes, risks are involved. You'll end up changing your block & overhauling your engine if luck is against you and if your lucky enough performance, mileage, smoothness everything will get better.
If your scoot is not old enough say more than 25k then dont attempt.

**abhijitkn** · 01-21-2012, 12:14 PM

My brother warmed the oil (4T) a little bit & then mixed the boric acid into it.

Announcement

Boric acid + engine oils, does it work out??

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