^ i know you and your ride man, been following you through karizma thread.

Honda_CBF bhai, tussi great ho! Meeting you the next time I pay a visit to Tata for sure.
[OT] U going home in Diwali? [/OT]

Ashwin, here's some info for you:-
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The crankshaft and connecting rod bearings in the engine are just plain bearings. They have no balls or rollers, just a thin metal shell insert with an oil groove which "rubs" against the crankshaft.

You know how your bike/car tires will hydroplane when you go fast enough thru deep enough water. The bearings work on this hydroplaning principle. If the rotational surface speed of the bearing is fast enough (fast enough engine rpm) the crankshaft will hydroplane up on the oil film and never touch the bearing shell when the engine is running.

Otherwise, it will rub and wear the bearing. You will not know it is wearing for a long time, and then it will be too late and you will hear knocking noises when the engine idles. This noise is caused by the clearance in the bearing getting bigger due to wearing away the bearing shell. At this point people put in thicker oil and blah blah blah...

Read more here and more importantly here!

Sorry but you are wrong here.
The type of bearings(Plain)you mentioned are used only in cars or higher cc bikes and not in our commuter bikes.
Our bikes have ball bearings on the crank and roller pin bearings on the con rod big end.

@T.S
Lugging the engine is bad for an engine. It not only decreases the mileage considerably but also decrease the engine life.
When the engine runs at low rpm most of the time,due to incomplete fuel combustion heavy carbon deposition takes place.
If the bike is red-lined once in a while then this carbon deposits from piston and valves gets burnt and the bike feels smooth and revvy.
Keeping the engine in its maximum torque band RPM will ensure that you will get both mileage and performance.

I do that! Revmatching before releasing the clutch when i downshift i got the hang of it in an fz initial days of learning. i love that exhaust note on an FZ while doin that
@Divya Sharan Yes! I understand. Thank you so much for educating me both of you In fact when i posted this thread i was expecting funny answers from other members . Thank fully it turned out to be more educating!

What is rev-matching you guys mention here? Is it -
giving a slight throttle while the clutch is fully depressed just before a downshift, so that the rpm will rise, then do downshift? This is called Throttle Blip! It's part of the whole process in rev matching.
or
keep the throttle twisted, engage clutch bit without releasing throttle(rpm rises at this point), then suddenly releasing throttle and downshift?
Nope! No holding of clutch at any point of time. Use the clutch only to change gears. Period! (Crawling at 5 kmph in tight locales is an exception)
We are only asking to keep up the revs so much that (some threshold value) the engine doesn't knock.

What is rev-matching you guys mention here? Is it -
giving a slight throttle while the clutch is fully depressed just before a downshift, so that the rpm will rise, then do downshift? This is called Throttle Blip! It's part of the whole process in rev matching.
or
keep the throttle twisted, engage clutch bit without releasing throttle(rpm rises at this point), then suddenly releasing throttle and downshift?
Nope! No holding of clutch at any point of time. Use the clutch only to change gears. Period! (Crawling at 5 kmph in tight locales is an exception)
We are only asking to keep up the revs so much that (some threshold value) the engine doesn't knock.