Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

Learn & practice evasive maneuvers.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Retrofitted LEDs on tailight of my P150 Classic

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • soumya_digi
    replied
    Thanks to this old thread, I made my own LED backlight!





    Leave a comment:


  • rajaselvam_1987
    replied
    Bro i want a help from you.
    I've installed HID on my Twister before one month but now the battery is getting down.So i want to rewind the coil, in chennai who ll do the job could you please help me

    Leave a comment:


  • Abhijeet Bhattacharjee
    replied
    Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
    ^^ What resistance values did you use, and most importantly did you get uniform lighting from all the LEDs?
    yeah, I do get uniform brightness from all LED's & resistor values are provided in the diagram

    ckt diagram of my LED clusterhttps://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

    brake lamp only
    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

    tail+brake lamp (brightly illuminated)
    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
    Last edited by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee; 11-16-2011, 07:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    ^^ What resistance values did you use, and most importantly did you get uniform lighting from all the LEDs?

    Leave a comment:


  • Abhijeet Bhattacharjee
    replied
    Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
    Maybe its possible to do so with proper use of resistors. But, its easier to use two separate rows of LEDs.
    Same LED's used as both parking & brake lamps is easier to fabricate. I have done that... Its damn easy.

    Leave a comment:


  • rajaselvam_1987
    replied
    Help on Rewinding

    Bro i want a help from you.
    I've installed HID on my Twister before one month but now the battery is getting down.So i want to rewind the coil, in chennai who ll do the job could you please help me

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by Parth View Post
    Checked the bike's battery's voltage with a multimeter. Showed 14.5v. Added more resistors to the mix and mounted the LED tail light on the bike.

    I still don't get how to check the voltage rating of the LEDs. Can you tell me what to do with the multimeter so that I can check that. Also Need to know about the current.

    I'm not using the red shield. The board shows from outside but I plan to smoke the tail in a couple of days anyways so it won't be a problem.
    Just connect the 2 wires from the multimeter to the 2 legs of any LED while the ckt is powered ON. Measure the voltage. It should be in 2-3V range. Repeat this for different LEDs and check.

    Smoking is a alternative. Let us know how it goes.

    Leave a comment:


  • Parth
    replied
    What's the voltage that the bike provides while it's running? Does that voltage changes according to rpms?

    Calculate for 13-14V to be on the safe side.

    How do I check for voltage running across the individual LEDs?

    Use a voltmeter across the 2 legs of the LED.

    How can I check how much current is flowing through the LEDs? i.e. whether my assumption of .02 amperes is correct or not.

    By using a multimeter.

    Take the red shield off. Will increase the illumination.

    The ckt board would show through! But, these LEDs are bright enough even in daytime.
    Checked the bike's battery's voltage with a multimeter. Showed 14.5v. Added more resistors to the mix and mounted the LED tail light on the bike.

    I still don't get how to check the voltage rating of the LEDs. Can you tell me what to do with the multimeter so that I can check that. Also Need to know about the current.

    I'm not using the red shield. The board shows from outside but I plan to smoke the tail in a couple of days anyways so it won't be a problem.

    time for pics:






    Only the running light is showing in these pics as I didn't have an assistant to pull in the brake lever while I clicked pics.

    Leave a comment:


  • ab47
    replied
    Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
    In Pulsars there are two different rows of LEDs for Braking and Normal Tail lights.

    SMD are also available as single units or can be removed from these strips, which then can be soldered to a pcb.

    What I found out that, the pre-fabricated Resistors, are very reliable.

    I doubt that Rahul.. Are you talking about the stock Pulsar LED tail lights? Then its a No. There are only one set of LEDs.
    The glow is dim when on normal pilot lamp and headlight mode and they become dark (the voltage is increased, i'm not sure) on pressing the brake light. That's how they work.

    No two separate rows for braking and normal tail lights. I guess there are 5 SMDs on each row of the brake light setup.. Don't remember exactly.

    Leave a comment:


  • fayad555
    replied
    i had made custom led tail lamps for my unicorn..

    'm uploading some pictures...

    this is the park light.. brake lights are of good brightness


    at night


    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by Parth View Post
    Thanks. I've done the math of the resistor size keeping in mind some presumptions: 1. bike gives a constant 12 volts of power to the tail lamp
    2. I'm using 2 volt LEDs
    3. Current passing through the LED is .02 amperes.

    What's the voltage that the bike provides while it's running? Does that voltage changes according to rpms?

    Calculate for 13-14V to be on the safe side.

    How do I check for voltage running across the individual LEDs?

    Use a voltmeter across the 2 legs of the LED.

    How can I check how much current is flowing through the LEDs? i.e. whether my assumption of .02 amperes is correct or not.

    By using a multimeter.

    Take the red shield off. Will increase the illumination.

    The ckt board would show through! But, these LEDs are bright enough even in daytime.

    And one resistor per LED. That does seem like a LOT of work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Parth
    replied
    Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
    Looks nice! But 100 Ohms seems a bit less. While the circuit is running on the bike, measure the voltage across the individual LEDs. It should not be much more than 3V across each LED.
    Thanks. I've done the math of the resistor size keeping in mind some presumptions: 1. bike gives a constant 12 volts of power to the tail lamp
    2. I'm using 2 volt LEDs
    3. Current passing through the LED is .02 amperes.

    What's the voltage that the bike provides while it's running? Does that voltage changes according to rpms?

    How do I check for voltage running across the individual LEDs?

    How can I check how much current is flowing through the LEDs? i.e. whether my assumption of .02 amperes is correct or not.

    Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
    Oh, and here is how it looks on my R15 -



    The middle row is for the running light, and the other 2 rows are for the the brake light.



    I used 1 resistor per LED. The lesser the LEDs you string per resistor, the lesser is the effect of source voltage on the LED brightness. This eliminates any slight dimming during horn usage etc.



    And yes, its difficult to solder!



    Only the running light ON. Not the best pic!


    Take the red shield off. Will increase the illumination.

    And one resistor per LED. That does seem like a LOT of work.

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Looks nice! But 100 Ohms seems a bit less. While the circuit is running on the bike, measure the voltage across the individual LEDs. It should not be much more than 3V across each LED.

    Originally posted by Parth View Post
    Now the part where I'm stuck on.

    1. I don't understand is why did you have to use the capacitor and the diode in the first place.

    In a Pulsar, the tail light runs on AC, and the brake light on DC.

    2. Also, as per the wiring diagram, the capacitor is wired in the circuit for the running light only. If it is required then it must be required for BOTH the running light and the brake light circuits. Is it due to the fact that while the running light shall be on most of the time, the brake light shall be on a very little margin of the running time?

    No, its coz tail light runs on AC, while the brake light does not.

    3. I do not see a capacitor in the image that you've uploaded, or am I missing something?

    There is one.

    4. I do not understand how you've wired the diodes. Can you explain the circuit diagram to me?

    If its for a full DC bike like the R15, you do not need the diode/cap part.

    5. I see the capacitor has been wired between the positive and the negative wires on the running light circuit. Would it be wired the same way in the braking light circuit if I decide to use a capacitor and diode combo on the brake light circuit too?

    I hope its not relevant now!
    Oh, and here is how it looks on my R15 -



    The middle row is for the running light, and the other 2 rows are for the the brake light.



    I used 1 resistor per LED. The lesser the LEDs you string per resistor, the lesser is the effect of source voltage on the LED brightness. This eliminates any slight dimming during horn usage etc.



    And yes, its difficult to solder!



    Only the running light ON. Not the best pic!

    Last edited by abhijeet080808; 08-21-2011, 09:20 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Parth
    replied
    I tried this method and am kinda stuck on the diode and capacitor part.

    LEt me explain further. I assumed that the voltage that the bike provides to the tail lamp would be a constant 12volts. So i used ohm's law and figured out that I needed a single 100 ohm resistor per array of 5 LEDs connected in series. The math:

    I=V/R

    R=V/I

    R={12-(2x5)}/.02

    R=100

    Hence the use of a 100 ohm resistor.

    I made 2 arrays, 1 for brake light and 1 for running light.

    Here pics of what I've done so far:

    The brake light only :



    The running light only:







    Running and brake light together:




    Now the part where I'm stuck on.

    1. I don't understand is why did you have to use the capacitor and the diode in the first place.

    2. Also, as per the wiring diagram, the capacitor is wired in the circuit for the running light only. If it is required then it must be required for BOTH the running light and the brake light circuits. Is it due to the fact that while the running light shall be on most of the time, the brake light shall be on a very little margin of the running time?

    3. I do not see a capacitor in the image that you've uploaded, or am I missing something?

    4. I do not understand how you've wired the diodes. Can you explain the circuit diagram to me?

    5. I see the capacitor has been wired between the positive and the negative wires on the running light circuit. Would it be wired the same way in the braking light circuit if I decide to use a capacitor and diode combo on the brake light circuit too?

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Its from a LED calculator web site.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X