Like killer says,concentrate on pushing against the fuel tank with the outside leg to get the lean.
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Yeah,it's difficult to transfer the weight of your body to the rear tyre's inner contact patch via weighing the inside footpeg on most Indian bikes..dunno about the R15 .
Like killer says,concentrate on pushing against the fuel tank with the outside leg to get the lean.
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I had query about throttle control.
Before we go into a corner we close the throttle and lean in and then go into maintenance throttle. How do we know the right time to go into maintenance throttle? How do we stop the bike from getting a jerk when we slightly open it? Blip the throttle before downshifting?
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blip the throttle(but many dont, just shut or shift down) before entering the corner a bit and then through the corner just keep opening the gas gradually. Never roll on and off. if you open aggressively the rear can slide, esp if you on a powerful bike and that too in a lower gear.
As long as you can keep things smooth in a corner without panicing or abrubt throttling, everything will fall in its place. Smooth riding is the key to a faster lap time.sigpic
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The point where you crack open the throttle is the point when you reach your desired lean angle ( ie - there will be no more steering input / lean beyond that point). From that point on you roll on the throttle progressively all the way through the corner, the rate at which you roll on depending on how tight the turn is.Originally posted by Samyaza View PostI had query about throttle control.
Before we go into a corner we close the throttle and lean in and then go into maintenance throttle. How do we know the right time to go into maintenance throttle? How do we stop the bike from getting a jerk when we slightly open it? Blip the throttle before downshifting?
If you are smooth enough when cracking open the throttle you normally should not get a jerk, in some fuel injected bikes however the jerk at throttle opening is a common issue in slow speed corners where your rpm drops quite low. The best way to avoid it is to increase your idle rpm to just past the point where the jerk occurs, thats one of the reasons you see race bikes idling at around 2000 to 2500rpmLast edited by Killer; 05-01-2009, 07:27 PM.
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Originally posted by Joel View Postblip the throttle(but many dont, just shut or shift down) before entering the corner a bit and then through the corner just keep opening the gas gradually. Never roll on and off. if you open aggressively the rear can slide, esp if you on a powerful bike and that too in a lower gear.
As long as you can keep things smooth in a corner without panicing or abrubt throttling, everything will fall in its place. Smooth riding is the key to a faster lap time.Originally posted by Killer View PostThe point where you crack open the throttle is the point when you reach your desired lean angle ( ie - there will be no more steering input / lean beyond that point). From that point on you roll on the throttle progressively all the way through the corner, the rate at which you roll on depending on how tight the turn is.So i brake hard, blip the throttle, downshift, go into the desired lean angle, release the brake(if im trailing it right?), gradually roll on the throttle as i go through. But if i do all this before the touching the apex won't that lead to a dangerous situation as the weight from the front end is removed? My main problem is gear shifting and throttle control before the apex. Almost everytime i get into the corner too late as im busy with finding just the right speed.If you are smooth enough when cracking open the throttle you normally should not get a jerk, in some fuel injected bikes however the jerk at throttle opening is a common issue in slow speed corners where your rpm drops quite low. The best way to avoid it is to increase your idle rpm to just past the point where the jerk occurs, thats one of the reasons you see race bikes idling at around 2000 to 2500rpm
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Nope, when you tip into the corner after braking your front is loaded, once you get on the throttle it starts to unload progressively. To achieve the best balance between front and rear in a corner you theoretically need 60% weight on the rear and 40% on the front. You can only do that if you roll on the throttle, it wont have any adverse effect on your front end.Originally posted by Samyaza View PostBut if i do all this before the touching the apex won't that lead to a dangerous situation as the weight from the front end is removed?
Another important thing to note, as you get quicker you will find yourself cracking on the gas earlier, it no longer becomes a 2 step process of dropping to desired lean angle and then cracking open the throttle, rather the 2 steps overlap with each other. Once you reach the point of turn, apply one smooth push on the inner bar (countersteer) and as the bike falls into the turn you crack open the throttle while in the process of leaning in order to stabilize it. If you leave the throttle completely shut you could turn in too quickly and ruin your line. Again you may not notice this initially and not so much in slow speed turns but this becomes more evident when you get faster and start turning in quicker. This overlap during transitions applies to most other actions you perform on the bikes controls while racing, it happens as you get faster and faster and makes you a much smoother rider. Its one of the biggest differences between a good rider and a great one.Last edited by Killer; 05-02-2009, 01:09 AM.
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Oh...I didnt know that. I was always trying to keep the front loaded more than the rear.Originally posted by Killer View PostTo achieve the best balance between front and rear in a corner you theoretically need 60% weight on the rear and 40% on the front. You can only do that if you roll on the throttle, it wont have any adverse effect on your front end.
That makes a lot of sense coz when i was riding my friend's bike(a R15), leaning and braking on it was a piece of cake. So i focused more on the throttle and lines. I would go into a corner with the throttle completely closed(as i used to do on my bike) and start hugging the inside line when i could have gradually opened up. Gotta ride some more to get that thing sorted out.Another important thing to note, as you get quicker you will find yourself cracking on the gas earlier, it no longer becomes a 2 step process of dropping to desired lean angle and then cracking open the throttle, rather the 2 steps overlap with each other. Once you reach the point of turn, apply one smooth push on the inner bar (countersteer) and as the bike falls into the turn you crack open the throttle while in the process of leaning in order to stabilize it. If you leave the throttle completely shut you could turn in too quickly and ruin your line.
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Samyaza , you are not entirely incorrect . You have to load the front end when front braking ; this stiffens the steering geometry and allows you to lean in easier . I believe that after you reach your maximum lean for the turn ,you switch to maintenance throttle and then make the weight ( 40% front,60% rear as Killer says ) and carry this weight ratio through the majority of the turn . And,then as you accelerate out of the corner , the weight is then obviously gonna switch backwards..
Am i right , Killer ? Help us here..
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^ yes i think thats pretty much what i said
I wouldn't encourage trail braking though to someone whos learning the ropes, its more of an advanced riding skill than you can only properly utilize once you've developed a good sense of feel, otherwise its a sure way of loosing the front and binning it.
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My mistake was that I would try to keep the front loaded throughout the turn and hence keep going tighter in a corner. I was scared to accelerate mid corner because of the jerk the bike gives when i even twist the throttle oh so lightly. Hopefully the rpm tweak can resolve that issue.Originally posted by ]|[ GorE View PostSamyaza , you are not entirely incorrect . You have to load the front end when front braking ; this stiffens the steering geometry and allows you to lean in easier . I believe that after you reach your maximum lean for the turn ,you switch to maintenance throttle and then make the weight ( 40% front,60% rear as Killer says ) and carry this weight ratio through the majority of the turn . And,then as you accelerate out of the corner , the weight is then obviously gonna switch backwards..
Yeah it was stupid of me trying to do that. Luckily I havn't fallen yet. Btw i've started reading a book called Sport Riding Techniques. Excellent stuff! A lot of explanation on what and why you should do and pictorial examples to understand better.Originally posted by Killer View Post^ yes i think thats pretty much what i said
I wouldn't encourage trail braking though to someone whos learning the ropes, its more of an advanced riding skill than you can only properly utilize once you've developed a good sense of feel, otherwise its a sure way of loosing the front and binning it.
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Yes, good book, i have it tooOriginally posted by Samyaza View PostBtw i've started reading a book called Sport Riding Techniques. Excellent stuff! A lot of explanation on what and why you should do and pictorial examples to understand better.
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I have the book as well . Since,i am have a piece of shit bike,the Gladiator RS , I use a single gear throughout the turn .
But I ain't complaining . It's my first bike ever and it's nice to handle . Once I get a job,i plan to upgrade to something atleast 600cc or so.
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Thanks a lot for that Killer. Here's what I always do.. The moment I see a corner, I stop throttle,start braking progressively until I think I'm good enough to attack the corner(which normally is around 60kmph for a 90degree corner). I never shifted my weight at the corners till date..cos I never got it right till date. So, for my normal cornering, I found crouching n keepin my weight as low as possible and away from the front handle bars helps...I don't know how to handle such a corner beyond that 60-70kmph mark...You have anything to say me about this?Sunny.
Yamaha Spare Parts price list for ALL Yamaha bikes, Parts Catalogue for YZF R15 and FZ16:
Yamaha Spare Parts Price List/ Bike Parts Catalogues - 2010 (UPDATED)
A complete DIY Projector Headlamp Tutorial for YZF R15: DIY Projector Headlights for R15!
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^ Very hard to say anything when we're talking about taking an imaginary corner above a certain speed, especially since i havent seen you ride. If you can be more specific about something you feel is happening while you're cornering that might be preventing you from going faster, we can discuss about that. Otherwise if you're following the steps described earlier then you should be fine.
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Well, what I meant to say is.. I feel the bike getting lighter when I bend it,and at around 60 degrees to the ground(and 60kmph too), I feel the bike get real light and that it might loose traction if I bend it more.Originally posted by Killer View Post^ Very hard to say anything when we're talking about taking an imaginary corner above a certain speed, especially since i havent seen you ride. If you can be more specific about something you feel is happening while you're cornering that might be preventing you from going faster, we can discuss about that. Otherwise if you're following the steps described earlier then you should be fine.
So, If I want to speed up more on the same corner, I need to bend more..and I feel the feedback from the rear tyre cutoff at that 60 degrees lean, and I just wont be confident enough to bend more than that for this reason. So, as a consequence of this lesser lean angle, i can't increase my corner speed too.
And the above post was just for a description of my riding posture and weight distribution.Sunny.
Yamaha Spare Parts price list for ALL Yamaha bikes, Parts Catalogue for YZF R15 and FZ16:
Yamaha Spare Parts Price List/ Bike Parts Catalogues - 2010 (UPDATED)
A complete DIY Projector Headlamp Tutorial for YZF R15: DIY Projector Headlights for R15!
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