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**pavanchirmade** · 10-20-2010, 08:45 AM

The coil is enclosed inside the stator housing man.. the white cylindrical thingys under the tank are the capacitors.

**psr** · 10-22-2010, 12:33 AM

Originally posted by pavanchirmade View Post

The coil is enclosed inside the stator housing man.. the white cylindrical thingys under the tank are the capacitors.

The primary ignition voltage coil is on the stator,and generates between 250 to 450 Volts AC.This is rectified by a full wave rectifier and stored in the Spark discharge capacitor(All inside the CDI).At the moment of spark this high voltage of 350 to 600 volts DC is discharged through the Primary of a step up IGNITION coil,which produces the H.T. of 20 to 30 Kilo Volts across the spark gap of the spark plug.
It is this step up IGNITION COIL in white color which is under the Petrol tank of the Pulsar.

**RhythmRana99** · 10-22-2010, 01:05 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Pulsar timing is 10 degree BTDC @ 1,500 RPM and 28 degrees BTDC @ 3,500 RPM.

This is when the magnet is just leaving the reed switch active area.This is the threshold for increasing advance.The 28 degree advance is at 3,500 RPM..about mid throttle position.

This is when the magnet no longer has any field to keep the reed switch on...this is full throttle position. Hope the info is useful.

is there any reed switch in R15?

**psr** · 10-22-2010, 11:18 AM

Rhythmrana...I don't think there are any Reed switches on the Carburetor in Yamaha R15.R15 is an open loop injected bike with TPS to give feedback to it's CDI,for ignition advance .

**ROCKRZ** · 10-22-2010, 11:46 AM

is the bike rectified??? any updates???

**princesirohi** · 10-26-2010, 12:25 PM

@ pavanchirmade, psr: if HT coil/capcitors are faulty, either of the spark plugs should not function, but they are working fine.

@ROKRZ: no bro, couldn't get time. will do it probably tommorrow.

**psr** · 10-26-2010, 01:42 PM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

@ pavanchirmade, psr: if HT coil/capcitors are faulty, either of the spark plugs should not function, but they are working fine.

@ROKRZ: no bro, couldn't get time. will do it probably tommorrow.

Please read posts fully...nowhere I had hinted at your Ht coil/capacitors being faulty.

**rajatagarwal** · 10-27-2010, 01:45 PM

I had the exact same problem
loss of acceleration between 60-70 and then the bikes takes off like all that pent up acceleration was stored some place
Overtime the problem worsened with the take off point shifting to 80 and vanishing completely over some 3000km
I had tried cleaning the carb, plugs and even trying out a new silencer
My mech told me that bad fuel has damaged the carb and it needs to be replaced
Didnt have the time to go around trying to get someone to repair the carb, i went in for a new one.
Simple bolt on job and everythin was back to being perfect
the carb costed me 2800 + 200 labor (1 total 1 hr job)

**psr** · 10-27-2010, 02:29 PM

Originally posted by rajatagarwal View Post

I had the exact same problem
loss of acceleration between 60-70 and then the bikes takes off like all that pent up acceleration was stored some place
Overtime the problem worsened with the take off point shifting to 80 and vanishing completely over some 3000km
I had tried cleaning the carb, plugs and even trying out a new silencer
My mech told me that bad fuel has damaged the carb and it needs to be replaced
Didnt have the time to go around trying to get someone to repair the carb, i went in for a new one.
Simple bolt on job and everythin was back to being perfect
the carb costed me 2800 + 200 labor (1 total 1 hr job)

Even with bad petrol carbs are hard to damage.The jets may get fouled,float may get stuck,air and petrol openings will get clogged...but all this can be set right with soaking the parts in Acetone for 4 to 6 hrs and cleaning it with high pressure air and petrol.

**ROCKRZ** · 10-27-2010, 04:28 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Even with bad petrol carbs are hard to damage.The jets may get fouled,float may get stuck,air and petrol openings will get clogged...but all this can be set right with soaking the parts in Acetone for 4 to 6 hrs and cleaning it with high pressure air and petrol.

buddy, i understand what you are trying to say.. but the carbs do get damaged in due course of time.. the same thing happened to my carb also.. once i replaced it, the bike runs fine.. but with te old one, somehow it jerks.. i tried everything right fron dismantling it and re assembling it after cleaning butnothing helps.. i even changed teh diaphragm.. but still the probs persisted. sometimes its better to change the carb and see if the problem vanishes...

as far as i reasoned, when the carb slide is damaged, the carb gives such problems.. my slide was a bit scored on one side but i presume that was because of my running the bike without filter for a whole day before and dirt might have got into the carb and thus damaging it..

**psr** · 10-27-2010, 09:48 PM

Originally posted by ROCKRZ View Post

as far as i reasoned, when the carb slide is damaged, the carb gives such problems.. my slide was a bit scored on one side but i presume that was because of my running the bike without filter for a whole day before and dirt might have got into the carb and thus damaging it..

This is news to me.....Thanks for the clarification...I was under the impression with modern technology material and application bikes have become better and reliable,in all aspects.

**princesirohi** · 10-29-2010, 04:18 PM

Good news: Poblm solved

hey guys,

thank you all for all your suggestions, my problem is solved. what my mechanic did was took out carb, dismantled it, cleaned everything like jets, float, diaphram etc, reassemble it and put it back to where it belong. then replaced reed switch and magnet on carb. the problem gone 99%.

the reason i am saying 99% is that i have not tested it to my heart's satisfaction.

i did only one 50 km ride and in that ride 9 out of 10 times it worked perfectly and just once i felt it has not improved completely. so all i can say now is mostly the problem is solved but still i will test it thouroghly.

but i failed to understand the problem, there was absolutely no problem with carb and everything was fine.

regarding reed switch, i had changed it before also, but last time it didn't solved the problem. only thing i changed additionally this time is magnet for reed switch mounted on carb. can a magnet become faulty?

i am attaching some photos of a chain cleaner. are these so called chain cleaners really good. my mechanic used it this time.

**psr** · 10-29-2010, 10:52 PM

Magnets don't go bad....unless it is cracked or broken.The Reed switch is more likely to have gone wrong as it is made of Glass and easily broken.If the Magnet had moved from its place and the 2.5mm gap between it and the Reed switch is not maintained also the problem will be noticed.
Good you have got over the problem.

**princesirohi** · 11-01-2010, 02:27 PM

Problem resurfaced

hey guys .....

the problem surfaced again.

help me.

now reed switch can not go faulty so soon, i guess.
so now is it a problem of carb or CDI.

which one shall i try replacing first.
also if carb is faulty, can we not just replace the fauldy part in carb. rather than replacing whole carb. carb costs around Rs. 2000 to 3000/=. not sure about actual price.

help me guys.

**psr** · 11-01-2010, 05:15 PM

To rule out the Reed switch disconnect it's connector and then ride.Then connect a copper wire between the connector's pin and short them,and ride again.If in any one of the state the bike runs well the problem is with the Reed switch or magnet position.If not you will have to look at theSpark Plugs first and carburetor next.

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