Isn't it 1 liter?
Crank opened = further 100 or 200ml.

A costlier oil is a better one, buttttttt

In any Indian Motorcycle the oil level will dip / evaporate if FS is used (air-cooled M'cycle), stick to SS and change at 1000kms.

Mud staying on a bike's tires aides in those cracks, they won't bother.

Ask (or clean yourself) by scrubbing it hard. The cracks wouldn't appear on a new tire if scrubbed clean of mud.

Not true. I have been using agip full synth oil & NEVER faced any oil level dipping issue.

I have been using the same oil for the past 2500kms. I ride the bike in medium conditions i.e. sometimes hard riding & sometimes slow.

I had read that post already on the engine oils thread (the first one). But since i never used a motul product i had refrained from commenting.

I had replied now because you said all synthetic oils have oil dipping issue which according to me is not true since you were experiencing this oil dipping problem only with motul (i presume it to be 5W40). Blaming all the group for one particular company wouldnt be right.

Since i have used the oil for 2500kms (1500kms more than specified) i think my opinion can be taken seriously. Right?

its the other way i heard... motul is actually better than valvoline with respect to pulsars...i will put in 1100ml this time and check it

no dude..according to the bike's oil indicator on the left side of the engine,if we pour in 1150 or 1200ml then the level will be inbetween or on par with the top line of the indicator.... atleast thats what i saw and know...

and that mud on the tyre thing is a new info for me...will do as you posted.

also i would like to add that even when i used FS (motul) ,the level doesnt dip under normal usage and ripping...i checked mine periodically and i never topped it

What I dont understand is how does engine oil come into the air filter box ? If seen petrol vapours come out of the carb (when running without a filter ) when its throttled up. But never seen oil.

If oil is coming into the air filter box, the way it can is via the carb which is the link between the engine and air filter. Or it might come through the air-feed device which feeds excess air to the cylinder head to convert CO -> CO2 and NO to NO2 for environmental regulations. That means a seal isn't working properly, unable to block the oil from coming there. Still I find it hard to believe how does engine oil manage to come to the air filter box and cause a significant loss in level of oil.

The reply given to you from Bajaj is just err.... an excuse to throw the reasons off themselves.

I am currently using 15W50 Motul SS and I covered 800+ kms in 9 and half hours (Pune-Bangy) nearly nonstop. The engine didn't overheat and there was no drop in oil level. No oil in the air filter box either.

Secondly, I've had issues with my previous bike (Cbz-xtreme) in which after 34k kms the gaskets were replaced when the rings were changed. Their quality wasn't as good as what the bike came with and compounded with average workmanship the bike started leaking oil a lot whenever I used synthetic but not mineral or ss (SS is mostly mineral with 20% blend of synth.) Synthetic oils are much thinner and dont clog up. Also synthetics remove all residues which are lodged in the gaps between the gasket and the metal part and the leakage occurs. SS is the best bet for the 220 according to me. Even though gearshifts are nowhere that good as likes of R15, I am going to stick with SS as FS is suited for bikes which are better in build quality and good workmanship is available whenever there's work done on the engine.

About tyres, those sidewall cracks are fine as of now but keep an eye on them. Also tyre pressures should be lowered whenever you're going on a long run as the tyre heats up a lot more and the pressure builds up much more than commuting for less distances. 35 is too high according to me even for normal city riding. I keep 28 front 28 rear on touring and 30-32 for city commuting. I check pressures every two days.

so what seal is not not sealed or sealing properly? does this mean the engine should be dismantled??? as i said before when teh rubber part is replaced,the leakage stopped instantly.... so how can it be any other seals?? i am changing my head gasket and my right side engine oil seal as oil is slightly (minute) leaking from there too..35 i keep for highways..32 i use in cities that too only in rear tyre...front i maintain 28 in city and 30 on highways...

mine leaks oil from the engine number area when i overdill than the stipulated amount...
i have the same experience with motul and valvo

Deepak and Arn used other oils other than Motul. Agip/Petronas/Power 1 racing/Shell and maybe a host others.

I used a 15W50 rated oil. 300V to be precise. The cost then was Rs.750

How much difference would be there between a FS oil from different companies having the same rating?

Why don't you try out your self?

How much oil to put in? Refer your manual.
May be you and Madhav aren't ri(A)ping enough.

But at the end if you are satisfied, the its cool, because this is what matters.

The motul is made from base stock 5 group which makes it a better synthetic than others & hence costly (Its price is 900 now). The agip is made from base stock group 4 (not sure & i am assuming it from its low price) which does qualify it as a full synthetic but not better than the motul. But its price is very low (620 only).

Maybe usage of different base stocks is the reason. I would suggest you once to use the agip after which a lot of questions can be cleared.

True.

Since i am just a student i have to worry about the mileage also. Thats why i always drive it in moderate conditions. But when i rip it then i take it to more than 7k rpm before changing the gears.

@satan:

Better change the oil as soon as possible, as discussing on this thread without carrying out work will be just like a blind man shooting a Apple on the head of Pulsar.

+1. Motul 300V belongs to 'Group V' which makes it the best available synthetic for the two wheelers. Other cheaper synthetics are made from group IV and III which makes the price reduction.

I wasn't aware of the 'group' thing. Could you please post a link so that I can go through and en-light myself?
Thanks

Motor oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

see under the American Petroleum Institute heading.

Sorry for OT.

As long as the oil leakage isn't much, don't get work done on the engine. The kind of fit and assembly of the engine done at the factory can't be matched by the mechanics we take our bike to. Even PBK isn't that much upto the mark. So unless the oil leakage drop is excessive, don't bother about it. Although just keep an eye on the exhaust. If you see white smoke then your bike is burning engine oil, which is not good and should be attended to immediately. If not just top up oil periodically.

Also shift to mineral or Valvoline 20W50 SS, will be cheaper on the pocket.

ya will do the necessary stuff and revert back..but i think i need to make a 600km trip again to see if its leaking

seems that head gasket has to be replaced at 10k kms which i did not and my bike is at 20k kms now...so will be replacing the gasket..also side engine oil seal...have my last stock of motul which can be used for the last time..will replace those parts,clean the carb and just check out again...

if smoke is coming from exhaust then it means oil is burning which also means run in is not done properly ... but i did follow strict run in method..its impossible for oil to get burnt