its something else..........i think.

IMO an excessively rich mix won't make the bike run hot. Instead rich mix actually makes the bike run cooler.

The best way to check whether the bike is running rich or lean is by plug chop.

See the color of the spark plug tip.

Overheating issues are generally caused by lean mix, bad oil, low oil, worn out clutch plates, etc.

I don't think the coil will cause overheating.

Does your bike shut down or hesitates to accelerate when it gets hot?

@ pavanchirmade.... do you think rewounded stator is putting too much load on engine? can breather pipe be the culprit.

Rewinded coil? No. Breather pipe? Maybe. Get the pipe changed and see. It costs some 15 bucks only.

any other possible problems......

PRINCE
PAVAN's Overheating issues are generally caused by lean mix, bad oil, low oil, worn out clutch plates, etc.

+ 1

Prince'sjust by using 0.5 higher size bore will not increase compression to significant value... then how do u face knocking till 80km/hr...??? (is that what you are really facing??? or is the head piston contact sound is felt by you as knocking???and sound later covers that contact sound?) you are really gonna pay for the piston, cylinder & some other stroke contributing assembly part.. if you keep riding in this condition... unless you are alwayz on a highway with mid/low range always under a matter of seconds and that you only maintain higher speeds.

Now to your overheating issue...

remove the hose, small amount of black dry powder is normal, itz just direct remove direct fit job... your worry on this factor would be done....

And after that DO REJET... you would be running excessively lean...

..but i still doubt improper rewinding or worn out winding wire can lead to overloading and hence.. low engine performance because loss of power and that can be in terms of heat... but now(from the inputs from pavan and abhi) i dont think it would directly contribute... but this can have a share on heating...
And since you are already running lean this would be an addition..

My advice..
1) check hose...
2) Rejet...
Increase in piston length can increase stroke length and hence power delivery (how power delivery?.. faster rate of combustion and hence faster piston movement/strokes)... if you run on the stock afr it would be too lean to compensate the addition... are you getting the point now...?

First check these two points and get back and tell us what you felt?

Not regarding Prince's case.. But
PAVAN.. i think too rich afr can... since more fuel (in comparation to the combustion chamber) is being burned... hence more heat... if excess can in the mixture can produce excess heat so does extra fuel... the only difference is that contribution of running lean is much higher in comparison..., itz just an idle thought...what do you think about it, can this be possible..?

Try changing the oil too ...W50... (seroiusly i have come across 70% no to Power1 and 30% yes in my circle)... There is difference of opinion in every variable...In MOTUL what i saw as negative is.. some experience a decrease in performance... while some doesnt...
it can be like bike became smoother and they dont feel that earlier aggressive kick... though the performance figure with time remains the same... well this is purely my view...
Discuss with experts and conclude choosing a good one

any other issues that can be.....................

20w40 is fine for p150

Knocking: check wether you are running lean (pull out your spark plug and check the colour) ,also check wether the rhs spark-plug is firing (remove thre rhs and lhs plug caps insert a spark plug into the lhs plug cap hod the tip of the plug against any metal part and crank the engine )

Engine-oil: engine oil is vital for cooling as well as lubrication as it carries heat away from the hot regions towards colder regions, therefore any reduction in the quantity of oil will have an adverse effect on engine cooling.
this is on a personal note - i personally have used castrol power1, valvoline 4t premium , and bajaj dtsi oil and have found them to get oxidised extremely fast

lastly do check wether you have any obstructions in front of the cooling fins (mud ,muck engine covers and its iilk ) if you find any clean them out ,

Remove the crank case breather hose from the crank case and start the bike. If you feel air leaving the crank case then there is no blockage. Now put the hose back and remove the hose from the airbox and see if you feel the air leaving at the same pressure. If yes then the hose is fine. Generally the breather hose doesn't get clogged as the crank case blows the air out.

Build a temperature sensor using LM35 and post the temperature readings. AR please you too do the same and compare.

Prince buddy spit evaporates on my bike too. It evaporates on any bike. It is not a test.

AR what does this mean man "PAVAN's Overheating issues are generally caused by lean mix, bad oil, low oil, worn out clutch plates, etc."

Just Pavan's?

PAVAN oopz sorry i ment " +1 to your quote ...forgot the word 'quote' "
dude i had checked using the temp gun, i dont remember the value but it showed heating above the limit...

Prince

small edit.. sorry i made a mistake...

corrected ones..
> i got it now cleared that rich afr can in no way add to overheating..

1. You had earlier told me that you had changed the connecting rod too as the the gudgeon pin didnt suit yours... so that suddenly made me think that you had an increased con rod size... sorry for that...

A piston transfers force to the crankshaft from the combustion pressure or in other words from the expanding gas... Increase in piston size leads to faster strokes... because of the extra size... so i think this would ensure more power delivery....
And i think i again went wrong when mentioning faster rate of combustion, sorry (but faster/increased compression would be right)... but again increase in compression is there... so rejetting as a solution again comes into vicinity...
And since you had this knocking problem even before the mod, something might have already been wrong in these region... may be your gaskets had got damaged before and when went for the mod the mechanic might have replaced or made a proper seating... well itz just a thought..

> Check clutch plates...
> KB's and PAVAN's advice..

if you have got a different perspective in piston factor, letz discuss it through VM, else i would be causing the thread getting diverted...

pulsar engines produce more heat than any other engines... so make sure that you follow Pavan's advice of finding the temperature.

finally you said some thing that is relevant

pulsars run much hotter compared to others owing to its high compression ratio

How can i build that? What is LM35?
SORRY GUYS FOR USING THIS THREAD FOR MYSELF.... I want a temperature gauge for my bike too, so, just curious to know

LM 34 is for temperature in F
LM 35 is for temperature in C

@psr: AWESOME!


@Honda_CBF:The voltage reading showed by the DVM or DMM [Digital Volt Meter/Digital Multi Meter] is the actual temperature reading.