Ya im using 20w40mnow its good but once the engine gets hot the top end reduces to 108 it dosent get above it....while on 20w50 i used to touch 115 quite easily......

other points are ok but i guess 100/90-17 is a thinner tyre than the stock rtr 180's 110/80-17...so how will it reduce the top end and mileage bro....

You meant feeler's gauge ?

Man o man

you'll face problem with pickup,severely
when the engine will heat up the bike wont rev freelly

You know why?

cause you put more dense oil in the engine,stick to 20w40.you're on 20w50,bike wont rev freely, pick up will be disastrous!

using glue and tape to fix the air filter isnt a good idea mate! better replace it!if you can install K&N,then you can buy the replacement of OEM

Get the AFR checked from SVC.

If you're so worried about grip, run on flat tire!
you can use 100/90,it'll reduce your mileage and increase pickup,reduce top end!

Thnxx will get it set asap...though as of mow i just bought valve seal , both valves only i will tell the mech to not damage the timing chain though and yes no clutch proble as im runin on new clutch plate since last 500 kms,....its super smooth with yamahalube 20w40........but the problem im facing is the oil level is getting low very soon

thnxx
but some points bro

1.which tyre to use.....the front i need superb grip to do stoppies im planning for a pirelli 90/90-17 cost rs 1900 here...................the rear one zapper is fine now but i dont want to change back to stock tvs can i use michellin pilot sporty 100/90-17 is it good for stunting and indian roads

2.Yea the clutch problem is no more now...as i have stopped doin burnouts....and i suspect tht in course of burnin the tvs tyre deliberately i fu**ed the clutch plate though i got it changed at 6.5k but was damaged since 2.5k

3.Had installed a 170 size jet for 1 week but it killed the mileage so i reverted back to stock and yes tht jet gave too much jerks after 9k rpm it just refused to redline thoug the acceleration increased now i have remove all the setup and tommorrow will be reverting back to a new stock bosch plug and power cable

4. the service guys are clueless here though will try getin them as techy as possible

5.Can u tell me where to source a p220's projector

your main problem of mileage and engine turning off is caused because of tight tappets as your engine is loosing compression through the valves. set it to company recommended value and your mileage and power loss problem will vanish.
Clutch plates getting burned so early indicates that you abusing the clutch or the clutch housing(bell) is damaged.
Timing chain doesn't get damaged on opening the head but it elongates due to continuous running and thus make noise. Although carelessness on part of mechanic can damage timing chain.

Ok, I have a P180 so maybe some pointers can help:

1. Those MRF Zappers will kill your performance as they're softer compound than your TVS Stock tyres. If you want performance, get those TVS tyres back on your bike. Otherwise, the 100/90 might help a bit.

Currently, I have R15 soft compound tyres (80/90 and 100/80 x 17) which have killed the performance due to their stickiness.

2. Yes, a burnout kills the clutch plates of a bike slowly. To ensure less damage to clutch, you can try burnouts on floor, cement roads, muddy roads with less grip, etc.
I once did a burnout with front tyre on road, and rear on sands. Created quite a sandstorm. Its 17k and my clutch plates are still stock...

3. Even I had K&N installed. Now answer this: Did you replace/ enlarge the Main jet of your bike while installing K&N?
If so, firstly replace the main jet back to the normal #125 size from TVS SVC. Jet should cost around Rs. 100 or so. If you don't do this, Joel's kit will also not run on full potential.

4. Tappets can be done properly by the SVC guys only. Tell them to do it using the proper "tappet gauge".

Almost all problems that you are facing have been faced by me earlier (K&N, Tappets, Tyres, etc.). Got over them eventually except for those soft tyres.

Thnxx for ur advice buddy but i can do it any more as im already a highlight at the svc here due to my unique trials on my bike an in such a small place everyone at the svc clearly remembers me and features of my bike so i need to choose a better option

First big issue you did is you told the service center you did experiment with K&N, to TVS which is already good in screwing customers and taking them for a ride with the pathetic services.

Similiar issue was faced by one more friend in pune, where he cut the stock filter box and installed the K&N filter and was happy for some time, but than initial he had the same hiccups you have mentioned and finally after some time his engine was seized. So he got hold of a Apache RTR 180 from somewhere removed the entire air filter and fitted the stock one, in such a way that none knows that it was cut and replaced and he claimed the warranty.

Now the culprit here was when he cut the stock filter to replace the K&N filter a small piece of the stock filter stayed inside and it blocked the air flow and gave same issues which due to the stock filter the service center accepted and replaced all things for free.

By the way, replace with the stock filter with a new box so cutting is not visible at all and show to service center and never mention that you used K&N.

Surely will follow dat....thank u sir

It is better to stick to Mineral oil which willnot leak or suffer heat stress breakdown..Semi Synth and Fully Synth may be avoided in Indian made engines with High revving and higher operating temperature.
Clutch slippage will not occur if you use any JASO MA2 certified oil.
Synthetic oils contain molecules of smaller dimension than found in Mineral oil.This means, even through very minor gaps in oil seal,gaskets,and piston ring to bore gaps the oil can get through and cause oil leakage,and oil consumption problem. In the same place Mieral Oils with larger molecules will seemingly perform better without leak or consumption.

Ohke i will stick to the yamahalube 20w40 for the first 5000 kms atleast and then will shift to Yamahalube 15w50 semi synth...

nd one more ques i have read on xbhp tht fully-synth oil is not recommended for RTR's as it causes too much clutch slippage is it true

Dont use 'Crap'tol oil.Stick to mineral oils(20W40) for the running-in period.Either go for Yamalube 20W40 or Elf moto 4 gold 20W40.

Sir the bike has been treated with engine oil as follows
1. TVS tru 4 for 500 kms then serviced and oil changed run another 600 kms on it
2. Used castrol Power 1at 1100 kms on odo and kept for the next 1400 kms...when i put in this oil the problem of overheating had begun
3.At the second service oil again changed to TVS TRU4 for next 2000 kms
4 On the third service i had given the bike for a clutch plate change along with service(HAD TO LEAVE THE BIKE AT SVC).....they charged me 1150 for tht but the very next day i felt something wrong and took the bike to a local mech....he checked the oil and it was the old oil which my bike had been runin earlier and i got it drained i saw and smele tht the oil was totally burnt and was pitch black...thereafter got valvoline 20w50 on my bike as had no other option then
5.At the third service i got front +rear disc pads + sensor(under waranty) and front wheel bearing changed and used YAMAHALUBE 15W50.....
6. When i took it the next week to one more local mechanic who is a known frend of mine showed me tht there was no clutch plate change as the whole thing was burnt...he changed the clutch plates and i had no other option than using yamahalube 20w40 ..nd the total cost was 850 with the oil...
After which i started facing problems like oil leak, afr mixture and low speed , mileage etc actually the low speed and mileage was ealier too but the other things made it noticable then


REgarding the timing chain...i asked the tvs guy he said it gets damaged when they open the engine head....and as i have to get parts from chandigarh so i dont want any lack of parts so plzz tell em wht to do as my bike has just run 7k kms and valves _cealing and other stuff gone...

Ya ohke i will get a new air filter box asap......and yes k&n has f****ed my bike totally.....i dont have much idea about the valve clearance thing so how will i measure the distance once the head is opened...??

Clutch plates were damaged at rit 2.5 k....i had asked for it when i had run 3k nd at the time i was changing to k&n etc...though i didnt have the idea tht burnouts damage clutch plates i just thought the tyre will go....tht time i was a total noob out of which i did the k&N thing...

Mrf tyre for dazzlers are not available here and even the mrf orignal dealer says tht its has stopped manufacturing he just says either a 120/80 or a 100/90 for 17 rim will be available ....though i could fine one mrf zapper q with 110/90 but it was a 18 rim size my frend uses it on his 2009 apache efi.....The options availalbe are
1.100/90-17 mrf
2.100/90-17 Ceat
3.130/80-17 pirelli (WAY TOO COSTLY FOR A STUNTER)
4.120/80-17 MRF CEAT AND DUNLOP


When i had talked to the tvs guy i told him tht i ordered a bore kit from somewhere and what else shld i get as nothing is available in my city everything is to be brought from chandigarh...so he told u get valve sealing, valves and timing chain as it gets damaged after opening the head

Ohke and about the oil...sorry but neither gulf nor shell is available here the brands availalbe here are
1.YAMAHALUBE(20w40, 15W50 semi synth and others too)
2.Castrol Activ and castrol power 1 semi synth
3.Valvoline 20w50 semi synth
4.I think ELF is available will have to confirm
5.Veedol Fully synth ( SAW ONLY 1 BOTTLE AT THE TVS SVC)