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Start with the basics first,check the air filter for clogging,tune the carb for proper A/F mixture.Have you got the valve clearances adjusted before this issue?

Checked the Airfilter and the carb... they are ok. Valves are fine, had got the complete checkup done 3 days back.. no avail.. help please

I'm just taking a shot in the dark but it could be a problem with your clutch too, coz bike not responding on being revved and giving lower mileage are symptoms of having a wornout clutch.

You had not posted how many Kms on ODO...
Do you see engine oil dropping in level or light bluish smoke when you rev ?
From what you are saying it seems to be worn bore and piston ring condition.

^^..Hmm..might be possible!
@Utsav:What's with that Iftex additive you are using?Did you find any significant difference after using it?

These problems sound like a clutch problem with your bike. Get it checked and replaced if necessary... Do the following things in this order:

1. Check whether clutch lever has proper play or not. Atleast 5mm play is required. If it remains depressed always, it could be the most probable reason for the problems you're facing. My friend's Karizma had the same problem. He told me. I just touched the clutch lever and told him the problem instantly... He informed me later that the Service Centre guys screwed it up...

2. Drain the carburettor's dirt: Turn the fuel supply off. There is a screw in the lower part of your bike's carburettor. Unscrew it and let wastage flow thru an open pipe beside it... Screw it back.

3. Clean your chain & use a good chain wax/ spray on your chain... It worked for my bike atleast.

4. Put it on main stand. Check whether both wheels are rotating freely without any resistance. If the front wheel is stuck, it could be due to disk brake assembly. If the rear wheel is stuck, most probable reason could be the chain's lubrication...

Using some of these methods on my bike (P180), I managed to get good mileage figures. Around 56 kmpl or so.

--
PS: Also, keep tyre pressures lower... The ones you mentioned are too high. 26 and 33 are more like it. This has nothing to do with mileage but more pressure does result in less grip.

19,876 kms in 7 months of riding. Engine oil did drop once and that too by a huge mark but only once due to a faulty cap. No petrol smokes if revving.

I had this clutch issue last month (hugely low performance even a splendor count beat the rtr), till the svc guys fixed it.... and yea.. it was fixed but upto a certain extent. It was catching acceleration only after 6k rpm. but now its 8k rpm for a notable acceleration.


Well, I dint experience any sort of difference in the performance nor in the mileage, except it dropped about the time since I changed the engine oil to Veedol 10w40. I just use it coz the svc guys told me that using Iftex was good. but without using iftex (dint use iftex today when I drained out the fuel from the tank and carb and filled the normal one again) there was a little difference in performance. The RPM meter was racing past 9k real fast and the acceleration was also a bit better, dint check the mileage though as yet.

Hey thanks for the tyre pressure figures. I never knew the exact figures of how much to keep. Well, now I understand why my bike tends to grip less when I am doing a lap.

Well I really forgot to mention something, The bike is getting heated up a bit too much near the block-piston/carb/underneath tank area due to some unknown reason and this has been happening for quite a long time say 3 months.. I rode another RTR180 for a thousand kms today, but that sort of thing dint happen in that, and boy i rode it real fast and it returned a surprising mileage of 39kmpl (kinda dint expect that much after revving it continuously so hard). Why is it getting heated up about after a ride of 25~30kms and ripping (90~100kmph)

I added the my Drag test figures. They are horrible now!!

First of all. Where on earth do you get 89 octane in India? AFAIK All petrol sold in India is either 91 or 95 octane since April 2010.

Second of all. Why do you f*ck with your bike so passionately. What is the need of ANY additive? Iftex / Toulerene or whatever sh*t you put in that tank of yours. I mean isn't petrol expensive enough that you want to make it even more expensive. An RTR is not an exotic hyperbike which will not run properly on regular petrol. Not even premium petrol is required(which BTW is 95 octane. ALL OVER INDIA). Please drain all the adulterated petrol you have in that tank and gift it to an enemy. After that, please get a tankful of Normal Unleaded Petrol at RTO BPCL Pump / Agriculture college gate, HPCL pump (near FC road exit).

Third of all. The tyre pressure to be maintained is mentioned on a sticker stuck on the swing arm of ALL bikes for easy reference. Apart from that, it is also mentioned in the manual.

Fourthly, How do your average speeds show a variation of 50% when the bike is good. But the variation changes to 100% when the bike goes bad. People generally get the same kind of traffic everyday depending on time of home-office and office-home commute leading to comparable average speeds. Day after day after day.

Finally, please sell of that god foresaken bike of yours. I mean seriously. Please sell it. You have wasted enough time and money over it. Please buy something made by Honda and try to not screw it up.

Also, just asking, do you happen to posses a V-Box or something of the likes. You surely get damn accurate 0-60 timings down to the hundredth of a second. Would you mind me borrowing it someday? Also do guide me on how you lost those 10Kg of weight within the aforementioned 7 months. I have put on a few recently.. need to lose them ASAP. My bike would surely love me if I manage that. Not that it doesn't love me now.. but still.

Why again does the super-reliable RTR need so frequent services for?

P.S.: Even I got 56kmpl on my last tank up on the P220. And my bike has not had a 'proper service' for the last 8k km. It still does 154 inside Katraj tunnel. I did it again practically last week(now that it is Monday now).

P.P.S.: Before getting all performance oriented, try to get the basics right first. Read the manual. The manual is your friend. If you need real help, stop lying to your friends. Exaggerating is also lying.

@antz.bin: Whoa! What a post! I think the HyperEdge has 0-60 timer in the speedo console

antz.bin
I guess BS IV is not yet implemented in small towns(i heard it will be implemented in cities first and then Tier II and so on) 89 octane was available many months back, he could have used it back then... 95 octane is not the only premium fuel, you can get 2 types of premium fuel from shell(apart from 91 octane), 92 octane and some ultra super unleaded(dont know octane rating)
RTR has a mode in the digital meter where you can record your top speed and acceleration figure of 0-60.
BTW, RTR does need frequent services especially when you are using TVS TRU4, believe me, even though they name it as semi-synthetic, its worse than motul mineral oil.

13 Cities in India are BS4. All the rest are BS3.

The octane ratings of both BS3 and BS4 is RON 91 for Regular. RON 95 for premium. What is different is the sulphur content. 500PPM for BS3 and 150PPM for BS4. This standard must be followed by all PSU OMCs. If you feel Shell is selling lower octane, ditch shell and go to cheaper and better PSU bunk.

Also, if the TVS engine oil is so very bad, why use it at all?

AND you guys do not know what this person has been up to in those 7 months and what he has subjected his bike to. Do ask him about the other 'additive' I mentioned and its purposes.

for TS.
1> Check clutch plate

2> Do compression pressure test to check for worn out piston-ring or block .

+1 for no need to use preniun fuel in RTR's . I am using normal petrol for almost 60k kms and nothing bad happend to my bike.