How is that? Even if short the coil.. it does'nt affect my RPM.. or is it that there's a problem with the bike electrical which affects Tacho?

Yes when I connect the custom RR to the light coil, engine struggles to cope with the load, yes you can feel the sound and well as the tacho falls more than 3K. Abhi I didnt get time to do the mod you've suggested to isolate the earth and connect it to RR, hopefully this week. Rahul, if you short the coil and see the diff, the engine will tend to stop, shorting the coil is also gives tremendous load to the engine. Am I right Abhi? Its not advisable but you can test it for a second or so. If your bike is idle speed and try to switch on the light there is a slight drop in rpm if you watch it closely. I think Abhi can explain it more effectively.Abhi could you give'm a good briefing on this?.

I have tried testing, by shorting the coil, but it doesn't affect the RPM. And I don't see the logic behind Engine noise changing or RPM dropping unless it's affecting the Ignition current.

Abhi.. can you shed some light here?

Well, theoretically what the RR unit does is to short the stator coil when voltage rises above a fixed limit. So, this shorting is a regular occurrence. While a higher power stator coil does slightly load the engine, the effect is not so prominent. At max, we can see a 100-200 rpm idle drop. In my case, there was no effect when I used a 100/90 stator coil. Also, once that stator is fitted, variation in loads by using more lights etc will not affect the engine anymore.

hi friends ,

i have a pulsar 180 UG4, i want to know whether a 35W HID or 55/60W bulb willl run fine on my bike or all those stuff like coil rewinding, high amp rectifier needs to be done...

Yes, it will run fine!

so no mods for my bike i mean absolutely no changes just 55W bulb or a HID
is a direct fit with no mods. when used for a long period.. please if you can elaborate why its so???

bike has all DC electricals

Yeah, it is a direct fit. I bet you are happy!

HID will run fine as bike is already on DC. 60/55W will run fine too as the battery can provide the required power. Other bikes has the headlight on AC, hence need these mods!

thankss alot bro,you took out ahell lot of burden from my head???

Abhi, there could be a problem when using a HID or a higher watt bulb with PUIV, as the stock bulb is 35/35, the battery charger is designed accordingly. An 35W HID will consume nearly 9A for the first 10 secs and then it will touch 3.2-3.5A when it comes to the full brightness. So the charger has to be good enough to compansate the drain, am pretty damn sure about that because I have measured my friends bike its charging current is only 3.2, and another one showed 3.3A max @4K. My P V1 (9AH batt) is showing the same current with the stock RR and am struggling after a 45-50 mins. But there are some tips to save the battery, dont switch off in between, once you switch off and on, the first 9A will drain each occurance. So when I tried this it improved and I got another 5-7 mins extra. Note that my batt is getting fried and is almost worn out, Will keep this until I solve the charging issue. In my case switching between H/L will not take any warmup time as it uses a solenoid to make this happen. Using with higher watt halogen is also almost the same, as 55W halogen will consistently eat a min of 5A or more depends on brand, But it could be worse, once we switch between the high/low as lighting to its full brightness there also some initial need of extra amps if you closely watch with a meter.


So Chottu, if you have decided to go for an HID, from my experience from the past 1.5 months I will advise you to choose a xenon+halogne combi which is cheaper than bixenon (H/L with the solenoid function) and the most important benefit from this is the batt issue can be solved by re routing the power lines to the H beam halogen from the coil directly throuh a custome RR. So incase you are out of battery, you will not be left on dark, you can use the alternator current. But you should have a good electrician and normally few people are intersted to do this kind of dirt jobs

You have measured the currents on an older Pulsar. This Pulsar has all DC wiring and the RR unit will surely give more amperes! After all, it is the same 35W HID as stock h/l. Even 60/55W h/l works well! As for the initial current draw, it is the same as the starter drawing current. A 9aH battery has sufficient reserves!

The measured current from a 2009 P150 model and its showing only 3.3A max @4K, and same current is fed to my old P's 9AH battery. Difnetly he will get more back up than what am getting currently as I have an old battery but it can make the engine alive in single crank every morning unless am extracting the juice fully previous night. Now I have got a measurent from a XCD 135 guy, shows the same. Am yet to get the readings from a P220. There is a diff in old Pulsars and current siblings are the starter have been improved a lot. Current starter has 4 brushes and the armature have been modified a bit where as the older ones having only 2! Notable diff in performances, older ones you have to keep on cranking but newer ones, just a push more than enough!. Check it out. Recently I have got serviced my starter and I got a close look over it.

i came to know from a website that HID normal only works on low beam..

what it means ????

can the stock wiring of P180ug4 handle the current drawn by a 55W bulb..
i am thinking of fitting a philips extreme power bulb, it gives brightness of a 100W(approx) bulb by just consuming 55W

Well, I can only say one thing. A fully charged battery will not accept full current. So, if the battery is fully charged, current draw will be limited even if the stator/rr unit has the capacity to deliver more current. Maybe that's the case here. And in that case, if you switch ON the h/l, current flow will increase. Have you noticed anything like that?

And about the 4 brush starter, is it a 2009 improvement? I have seen such improvement from P150/180UGIII onwards. But it was nowhere near a HH starter. Is it that good now?

You will need a Bi-xenon HID. It will have both hi/lo. Stock wiring can handle 60/55W. But, I forgot something! I am not sure about the BCU. I will suggest that you use a relay. And the brightness is more like 75W than 100W! I should know, I am using a 100W bulb right now!

can u tell me how much will it cost me..

are u talking about adding a relay in between wire from battery and going towards headlight, i mean

battery-------------relay--------------headlight

seems that you are the master of all automotive electricals stuff??