your still running the stock carb and jeting??

its currently on 29mm with a 125 jet... but its all experimental... i'm swapping carbs almost every week to find one which would properly fit... this is the 3rd carb...

i've tried mikuni 29mm(current), mikuni 32mm and the default pulsar150 carb (27mm i guess... not sure)

still in the testing mode for finding the correct carb... next goin to test with stock carb and 125jets... current setup is running very rich...

query, what is porting? is it altering the valves?? ... but how exactly does it help in increasing the performance? i'd be happy to know more about this...

PS: what is blue printing? is it the same as porting or something else?

porting is a process of enlarging the port size (mostly for 2storkes) by removing the metals....

in 4s the manifolds are enlarges where the exhaust & carb is fixed...

mostly the exhaust pa(o)rt is enlarged but which should be done by a expert to get a mirror kind of finish

i have a few questions (in bold above).

was the 220 piston modded in any way or just shoved in as-is?

last question for now - does the 150 barrel take the bigger bore 220 piston?

PS: not sure if i missed it, but what cam??

P200 cylinder head
its a stock 200 head to accommodate a carb and also altered at the combustion chamber to accomodate the 67mm piston
EDIT: valves not yet modified.

P220 crank
its an off-the-shelf 220 crank, it was plonked in by changing the entire gearbox to that of a 220... and no, the crank was not altered in any way... its a fully functional long stroke.

wet clutch plates
these were the first failed attempt. it had a slotted bell which was drilled even more... but due to the heat generated, got burnt... now running on stock 200 plates

P220 cylinder head cover
this is the part which is present above the cylinder head and it is where u find your tappets... all head covers for 150/180/200 are the exact replica.. whereas in a 220, there were two rings instead of flat pieces(i exactly do not know what that is, it is placed symmetrically between the tappets). my guy insisted on goin for this because they seemed to produce less noise from the tappets.

150 barrel
i quite didnt understand what u meant by a barrel.. if u intended on meaning the bore, it is a stock 220 bore.

220 piston
its a 67mm piston. no alterations done as of now.

the cam
its a higher lift and duration cam.

PS: nothing of the 150 remains in it other than the physical appearance.

UPDATE:

today morning had a drag with karizma(s) new and old, P200, P220 and RTR Fi nothing came close in the first 400mts, was clearly a 20m away from the 220... later the 220 caught up with me... no other came even close... top speed at exit was around 120kmph, 0-100kmph 8 secs!

thanks for the clarifications (& the patience)... a few more questions

barrel = the entire lower portion of the engine block. don't know how to describe it - the part with the fins excluding the crankcase below and not including the cylinder head.
1. so if i understand correctly you completely replaced this with one from a 220, or did you take metal out of the 150 one. the reason i ask is because if you took metal out, the limiting factor would be the 4 engine mounts so i'm curious to know if the original 150 bore will allow so much metal to be taken out.
2. if it is a 220 barrel, then what happened with the mounting screws? i'm guessing then that the whole crankcase (not talking about the crankshaft - but the whole case = whatever's below the barrel) was changed.

ah, now understood what u meant by the barrel... the part where u can tweak the timing chain right?? the part where the piston moves....
1. yup... it was borrowed from the 220 itself... there were too much alterations needed to be done if i used the 150's barrel... so i saved the time and went for the 220's kit... moreover i get an extra oil supply pipe from the gearbox to the piston.. hence lesser heat...

2. again, everything in the bike except the cylinder head(the point where the manifold is fixed) is directly from the 220....

as for the cam, i jus described to u the 220's cam... and not a custom cam...

and bring more on.... am waiting for more queries...
will soon post a more detailed and technical review of my bike...

Its been a loooong time since i updated this thread...

The bike ran to a close 17000kms in a span of 6-7months. I had done the mod when the bike clocked 25k kms.. now its close to 43k kms... Eventually last week, the piston cracked while i was returning home from kalpakkam.

The crank rod, head and valves were intact. The bore suffered some damage. This bore is being rebored to house a larger piston in the future.

Now installed the 220 Dts-i bore+piston and the run in is on the way... done about 100kms..

Also have installed the 32mm UCAL Carb.

Good going mate! You seem to be riding it a lot.

@undefined...
although i completed my mod almost 6 mths back.(180 ug3-200) 6 mths back. I am struggling with some probs. If you can ask or consult ur mech and get back it might be really useful fr me!
The bike is a complete 200 stock, but it has a 180 carb with a 110 mainjet. also i have a k&N filter( from 1 and half) Roughly i saved up 5k on both. Rest the engine block is a complete 200 stock set up.
the bike doesnt cross 117!!!!! i touch 100km/hr at 7.8 rpm, i do a 117 at 9.8 rpm!!.
CAn you plz ask ur mech, how can you check on an engine block if it actually is a 200 engine block or a 150 block or a 180 engine block??
Can you plz check if this is due to the carb??

^^
firstly doesnt both the 180(since urs is UG3) and the 200 run on the 29mm carb???

and abt the speed... wats your sprocket config...??? i think that might be the culprit.. check for waring... mine lasted around 12k kms... or were you able to do more speeds previously with the same sprockets?? also check for the clutch... my clutch lasted only for around 10k kms..
over heating problems?? i use 300v fully synthetic...

AFAIK, the 220 bore(both FI and the DTS-i) has the letters "DK"(previously where we find the cc embossed) embossed on it.... will let you know about the rest soon..

Hi, Nice thread, i m planning to turn my 2006 model P180 into P220, m ready to spend not more than 12K, I m planning to keep the looks stock with round headlights but just the engine & lil body work & a new Silencer ... Shud i Go for it or not ???

but my Mech told me my bike doesnt require it now, as it reaced that level .. What level, i bought a second hand bike for 25K, i love my bike, so i take gud care of my bike, i hav trusty & Edu mechanic & spin my bike a lot, fallen & Risen sumtimes, i like to ride fast .. .sail thru the night ... but still my mechanic (ie. Friends mech, my Mech) told me he doesnt feel that my bike requries the mod!!

and how is that related to the thread ?

the engine is not programmed bro...
the fuel injector is programmed...
if you wanna use the stock engine and make it a 220 i dont think its possible...because they have different strokes... the stock cylinders and heads cant be used because of the huge difference in stroke size... and even if you use the cylinder and head from a 220 its not gonna work as the crankshaft is shorter and wont be able to complete combustion...
and changing all that is almost like designing a new engine...
what you can do is go for pistons with bigger bore size... it will increase the displacement of the engine...
although this will not make your bike a 220cc bike but this is the only practical thing i can think of...
although i wouldnt bore the cylinders of my bike to increase displacement as the performance gain is not huge... and you ll actually lose more if not done properly...
but my suggestion would be get a 220... trust me i ve been that way... its not worth all the money hassle and the hard work put into it...
just my 2 cents...