I'd start with 1500 RPM and then gradually (within the min.) take it up a bit. If anybody has noticed, this happens in MPFI cars automatically.
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With kicker or without, the same would apply.Originally posted by vinoob View Post
For all cold starts, I'd say.Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View Post
I'd start with 1500 RPM and then gradually (within the min.) take it up a bit. If anybody has noticed, this happens in MPFI cars automatically.
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Ask the SVC to take a look at your bike. Most probably should be carb tuning issues.Originally posted by vinoob View Posthow abt bikez without kicker....once i faced a problem starting my fz early morning tried the choke also but it failed to start. had to leave my bike home and catch a bus...thn got it started by evening...dont know what was the problem,,,,thank god didn't face any such issue till date...
Yeah! And if you care about saving some fuel, your time and the environment too, ride the bike slowly instead of idling for extended durations!Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View PostSo,Consensus is that: Start the Engine with RPM(For RTR/Fiero) at 1500 Kept with the help of Light throttle?Is that the Way?
For Morning Starts also?
Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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ohh thanks psychoOriginally posted by psycho 98 View PostIgnition off engage to first gear push the bike some 100 meters
its called warming up for the owner, nice excersice for the owner.
that means for the bikes without kicks the riders needs to warm up before the bike is it bro

then with the riders heat the bike warms up



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I don't prefer using choke unless the bike is not starting (which never happened). The one minute I take to put on my helmet&gloves&wave out Bye to my Mom is sufficient for it to warm up IMO! No extra throttle or clutching or anything whatsoever.Quench my thirst with gasoline!
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don't rev too hard when engine oil is not properly settled & also low engine tmp
Castrol Power1 Racing 4T SAE 10w50
MOTUL 300 V Factory Line 4T 15W50
Motul 7100 4 stroke engine oil
"100% sythetic Double Ester Technology 300 V 4T 15W50 is a high performance 4 stroke motorcycle engine oil specially formulated for all road and off road racig motorcycles..."
Sarmad Kadiri
Assistant Editor,
BIKE India (Online)
The reason why I always prefer synthetic engine oil is simply because it lasts much longer. The synthetic oils disintegrate in a much slower pace as compared to conventional engine oils and so the gap between one oil change to the other increase substantially.

Motorcycles are an ideal application for synthetic oil. ExxonMobil offers three fully synthetic engine oils for motorcycles:
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is recommended for on-road, high-performance 4-cycle sport bikes which are typically liquid cooled. It can also be used in air-cooled engines calling for a 10W-40 oil.
Mobil 1 V-Twin is a 20W-50 oil recommended for 4-cycle V-twin engines, particularly those that are air-cooled and tend to run hotter than other types of engines.
Mobil 1 Racing 2T is recommended for 2-cycle motorcycle engines that specify the use of a pre-mix, 2-cycle engine oil.
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Shell Advance - Products

UNITED KINGDOM : SHELL
The English Electric Lightning is a supersonic jet fighter aircraft of the Cold War era, noted for its great speed and unpainted natural metal exterior finish. It is the only all-British Mach 2 fighter aircraft. The aircraft was renowned for its capabilities as an interceptor; RAF pilots described it as "being saddled to a skyrocket".
Shell Advance is designed to promote maximum protection for your 4 stroke engine
Shell Advance oils are made up of a special mix of top-quality synthetic, semi-synthetic, or mineral base oils. Special high-performance additives are also mixed in to help provide long lasting protection against engine stress and improved cleanliness. It takes years of oil formulation experience to come up with the right formula for Shell Advance and the way various additives are mixed in with the base oil is crucial to its overall performance.
With less sophisticated oils, intense shear forces can lead to breakdown of viscosity modifiers that are added to prevent oils becoming too thin as the running temperature increases. When this breakdown occurs, small carbon particles are released into the oil and can form sludge deposits around the engine. These can lead to carbon and lacquer deposits especially at hot engine parts such as pistons and piston ring grooves, resulting in starting problems, power loss and failure to protect pistons from metal loss.
Shear Loss
Shell Advance is specially formulated to take advantage of a narrower viscosity range to help reduce the amount of viscosity modifiers that are needed to build wider span multi viscosity motorcycle oils. This reduction in viscosity modifiers has shown in laboratory testing to help reduce the amount of dirt that is generated from broken down viscosity modifiers, keeping the engine cleaner for longer.
This graphic reveals that Shell Advance is very shear stable and retains 98.5% of its viscosity after the Bosch Injector test, staying in grade longer.
Viscosity Loss
Shell Advance also contains special detergents that promote component cleanliness. Right up to the oil change, it keeps on helping to remove and render harmless the stubborn black carbon particles that can build up rapidly on parts lubricated with less advanced formula oils.
Overall, Shell Advance performs better than other oils in the same class when it comes to evaporative stability, chlorine content and shear loss.
Evaporative stability, chlorine content and shear loss
Key features of Shell Advance 4-stroke oils
Uses base oil with built in high viscosity index and excellent shear stability, meaning less viscosity improvers, to help keep engines and gearboxes cleaner
Additive technology which perfectly suits the requirements of wet clutches
High thermal stability to give longer lasting and safer lubrication
High evaporative stability and hence lower engine oil consumption
Better cold flow characteristics and hence easier engine starts and quicker protection
High quality anti-wear protection
Powerful antioxidant action to ensure it helps protect parts for longer and keeps your engine clean
Top quality detergents that provide effective component cleaning and long-term cleanliness
Strong dispersion agents that keep carbon particles in suspension and help prevent sludge build up
Anti-foaming additives that are designed to maximise lubrication effectiveness
Excellent elastomer compatibility to help protect hoses and seals and avoid adverse effects on hose performance
Special additives to help neutralise acid build up
Oil technology designed to suit the requirements of incorporated gear boxes
Meets or exceeds highest international specifications (JASO, API)
Developed through our unique association with Ducati, our range of Shell Advance oils are the optimum choice for any 2-wheeler. Choose one that's right for you.
Advance Ultra
Advance AX7
Advance AX5
Advance AX3
Advance VSX 2T
Advance Ultra
Fully Synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil
Designed to provide Shell's ultimate protection & performance for all modern motorbikes. The latest generation of motorcycle engines require highest standards of protection & performance, whatever the engine size.
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It provides enhanced control with smoother gear changes & an enjoyable ride by reducing noise & vibration.
Key features:
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Enhanced shear stability to dampen vibration & reduce noise
Optimised friction control for smoother clutch engagement & gear changes
Shell’s ultimate protection against valve train wear
Removal of sludge & engine deposits
Offers Shell’s ultimate lubrication performance for all motorbikes
Available viscosity: 10W-40 SM / MA2
Shell Advance’s R.C.E* Technology helps your bike perform to its peak potential, making it responsive to your slightest touch.
*RCE=Reliability of oil-performance , Control, Enjoyable ride
Advance AX7
Semi-synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil
Shell Advance AX7 is an ideal oil for high-performance motorbikes. Demanding engines deliver high power & torque & require oil performance reliability under stressful conditions. Their riders expect the enjoyment & excitement from enhanced control & ride comfort
Shell Advance AX7 offers excellent oil-performance reliability, helping to protect & clean your engine & prolong its life.
It provides advanced control with smoother gear changes & an enjoyable ride by reducing noise & vibration.
Key features:
Enhanced shear stability to dampen vibration & reduce noise
Optimised friction control for smoother clutch engagement & gear changes
Enhanced protection against valve train wear
Removal of sludge & engine deposits
Special formula keeps oil in-grade for longer
Also offers enhanced performance for standard motorbikes & small engine motorbike
Available viscosity: 10W-40 SL / MA2
Advance AX5
Premium mineral 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil
Shell Advance AX5 is an ideal oil for standard motorbikes. Mid-size engines require reliable oil performance under a range of conditions during the stop-start cycle of commuter journeys.
Shell Advance AX5 offers high oil-performance reliability, helping to protect & clean your engine & prolong its life.
Key features:
Enhanced protection against valve train wear
Removal of sludge & engine deposits
Special formula keeps oil in-grade for longer
Also offers enhanced performance for small engine motorbike.
Available viscosity: 20W-40 SL / MA and 10W-30 SL / MA
Advance AX3
Mineral 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil
Shell Advance AX3 is an ideal oil for small engine motorbikes with small, hot-running, hard-working engines that require reliable oil performance for continuous protection.
Shell Advance AX3 offers high oil-performance reliability to help protect and clean your engine between oil changes
Key features:
Protection against valve train wear
Removal of sludge and engine deposits
Available viscosity: 20W-40 SG / MA
Advance VSX 2T
Shell VSX 2T offers superior protection in 2-stroke motorcycle engines. It is suitable for both oil-injection and premix systems.
Shell VSX 2T is also recommended for small 2-stroke engines commonly used in garden equipment, such as mowers, chainsaws, and grass-cutters.
Shell VSX 2T exceeds JASO FA/FC specification, where required.
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-------------------------------------------Last edited by CTCT; 09-26-2011, 06:11 PM.
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Keep your bike in shape

Here are a few tips of how you can look after your two-wheeler so that it never lets you down.
It takes you to office before the boss gets in. It takes you to the market when your legs are too lazy to walk. It takes you back home when you’ve had enough of the rest of the world. It’s payback time.
Here are a few tips of how you can look after your two-wheeler so that it never lets you down.
Tyres & Wheels:
To keep the performance of your motorbike at the maximum, and improve its looks, due care of tyres and wheels is essential. A constant degradation of these parts takes place due to friction or unfavourable driving conditions like uneven roads, road grease, insects and brake dust. This may result in the poor performance level of the vehicle. Harsh braking is to be avoided as this causes depletion of the tyre rubber due to friction, and reduces the tyre’s life.
Make sure that your check your tyre treads for cuts and scrapes once a week. Have the wheels balanced and the alignment checked if the wear is uneven.
Examine both of your wheels for missing or loose spokes. Check the rims for cracks or dents.
Lift the wheel off the ground and spin it. Then watch its motion, listen for noise, and move it from side to side to check for looseness.
It’s essential to keep the tyres in tact and in perfect condition for safe driving and high mileage. The manufacturer's instructions should always be followed. The right air pressure assists the machine in giving high output, and also protects the tyre from corrosion. Many blowouts are the result of low air pressure.
Always use a good quality cleaner instead of any cheap tyre cleaner. It gives a smoother ride and excellent (skid - free) braking.
Wheels are very important for smooth driving and perfect looks, and are easily damaged by the use of harsh chemicals, brake dust and road salts. To avoid such ugly looks, wash and wax your wheels weekly and use a corrosion protectant.
Lubrication:
For a smooth and easy ride, it is important to lubricate your vehicle from time to time.
What are the parts that need to be lubricated?
Rider seat pivot
Control cables
Brake lever, pedal and clutch lever
Speedo gear/pinion/cable
Stand pivot
Front wheel bearing
Gear shifter assembly
Brake actuating shaft
Dive chain
Brakes:
Adjust your brakes so they lock the wheel when fully applied (see your owner’s manual for instructions). If the wheel does not lock, or if you hear a scraping sound when you’re trying to stop, have the lining checked.
During washing, however, avoid excessive wetting of brake shoes and discs, as this may affect the braking while driving. Do not wash brake discs with cleaners whose compounds include chlorine or silicon. Chlorine causes rust, and silicon makes brake discs slick, diminishing their usefulness and safety.
Lights:
Check the lights regularly to ensure they are clean and in working order. Remember to check the headlights, taillights, brake lights and indicator lights.
Cables:
For smooth operations, inspect the controls. Watch for kinks or broken strands in your cables. Also, lubricate the control mechanisms at each end of the cable.
Chain:
Oil the chain and check the sprockets for worn teeth.
Shock Absorbers:
Does the motorcycle bounce several times after you ride over a bump? Do you hear a big clunk? If the answer to either of this is yes, adjust or replace the shock absorbers.
Nuts/Bolts:
Be on the lookout for loose or missing nuts, bolts or cotter pins. If you keep your bike clean, it’s easier to spot the missing parts.
If you suspect that your motorbike can land you in trouble, fix things right away. That is the only way you can avoid an accident.
Have a happy and safe ride.
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-------------------------------------------Last edited by CTCT; 09-26-2011, 06:11 PM.
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Tips for Motorists

Learn ways to get the most out of your vehicle, and save money with Shell's tips on changing oil and conserving fuel.
When to change your oil
Topping up your oil
Changing your oil
Keep your car in top condition
When to change your oil
How do you know if you need a complete oil change or just a top up? Just follow our simple guide.
Check the manual
You don't always need to change your car's oil entirely, sometimes you will need only to perform a top up to keep your car running smoothly.
When you need to change your oil, you can do it yourself - it doesn't take long and is quite easy if you have the right tools.
Check the oil level.
Make sure you always keep your engine oil topped up by checking the oil level with the dipstick - your car owner's manual will tell you where to locate it.
When the oil level is below the minimum mark, find out how many kilometers have passed since the last oil change. If you are not sure or don't know, it is advisable to perform a complete oil change.
If the mileage is between 4000km and 10000km you will only need to top up your oil. If it is above 10000 km you need to change your oil, which you can do yourself. Depending on your driving conditions, it is often advisable to change the oil well before 10000 km.
There may be a technical problem if your mileage is less than 4000km and the oil level is low. Top up and start measuring the level on a weekly basis, or contact your local workshop for further advice.
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Topping up your oil
It's very simple, only takes ten minutes and you'll help keep your car in the best condition - find out how to top up the oil in your car's engine yourself.
Topping up your oil is very simple and takes only ten minutes at most.
Just follow these easy steps:
Check you have the right oil from the Shell Helix range. Besides a half-litre bottle of Shell Helix Engine oil, you need paper towels, rubber gloves, and a funnel.
Locate the dipstick - your car owner's manual will tell you where it is.
Unscrew the 'Oil' cap on the top of the engine.
Top up the oil at 250ml intervals.
Remove and clean the dipstick with the paper towel.
Measure the oil level with the dipstick.
Repeat steps 3 to 4 until the oil level on the dipstick reaches the level recommended by the manufacturer. This is usually equidistant between the low and high mark. Never over-fill beyond the high mark.
Screw the oil cap back on and clean any spills from the surface of the engine.
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Changing your oil
Take care of your car's oil change by yourself - it's easier than it sounds and saves you money. Just follow our step-by-step guide.
Changing your car oil is easier that it sounds and also saves you money. In all, the whole process shouldn't take longer than 45 minutes.
Just make sure that you follow your manufacturer's specific instructions and safety directions.
Firstly, choose the ideal oil for your car from the Shell Helix range - and check you have the necessary tools.
You'll need:
Shell Helix Engine Oil (3 to 4 litres - check owner's manual)
A new high quality oil filter - check owner's manual
Safety glasses and rubber gloves
Plastic container and funnel
Car jack and jack stands
Drain plug socket wrench
Paper towels and a rag
Oil filter wrench
How to change your oil
1. Prepare the car
The car should be on a level surface with the parking brake on and engine off, after the oil has been circulated for a few minutes. If you need space under the car, jack it up and use jack stands to support it. Jacks on their own are very unstable - never get under your car without using jack stands.
2. Unscrew the oil cap
Locate the oil cap (check with the manual to locate it) and unscrew it. This is very important, as a vacuum will not allow all the oil to drain out.
3. Locate the oil drain plug
Get underneath the car and locate the oil drain plug. This is a lone bolt at the bottom of the oil sump.
4. Place the container
Place a container beneath the oil drain plug and unscrew the plug, being careful not to let the plug fall into the container. Do not come in contact with the oil - it can be extremely hot.
5. Drain out the old oil
Allow all the oil to drain out completely. This can take several minutes.
6. Locate the oil filter
Locate the old oil filter with the help of your car’s owner manual. It should be identical to the one you are replacing it with.
7. Remove the old oil filter
Turn the filter wrench anti-clockwise to loosen the oil filter. The filter may be full of oil so take care not to spill any.
8. Prepare the new filter
Clean up the filter seat on the engine and place a light coating of oil on the gasket of the new filter.
9. Install the new filter
Carefully screw the new filter into place, making sure it is not over-tight. Screw back in the oil drain plug and tighten it with the wrench.
10. Fill up with oil
Using the funnel, carefully fill the engine with Shell Helix, avoiding spillage. Measure the oil level with the dipstick after every two litres filled.
11. Check the level is correct
When you have reached the correct level, replace the oil cap. Turn on the engine for ten minutes and then off again. Check the oil level with the dipstick once again - if the level is low, add more oil.
12. Clean up
Clean up all oil spillage on your engine and check for any leaks from the drain plug.
13. Properly dispose of the old oil and filter
Used oil is highly toxic and must never be disposed of with domestic waste. It is illegal to pour used oil into the sewage network. Always go to an authorised disposal point.
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Keep your car in top condition
Get the most out of your car, help preserve its value and keep harmful emissions at bay with these handy tips from Shell Helix.
If you're the owner of a car, you probably spend time and money taking care of your pride and joy, washing and polishing it to keep it in tip-top condition. But to get the most out of your car, to help preserve its value and to keep harmful emissions to a minimum, you can take some simple steps:
Always drive off straight after starting the car in the morning. The engine will warm up quicker, and a warm engine works more efficiently than a cold one.
Don't be too heavy-footed on the accelerator. Accelerating slowly will cut down on exhaust emissions.
If you get stuck in traffic, turn off your engine.
Choose free-flowing and decongested routes whenever possible.
Check oil levels regularly - low levels can lead to excessive engine wear and tear.
Ensure tyre pressures are correct.
Don't carry non-essential loads. Unnecessary roof or bicycle racks can increase fuel consumption by up to 16 per cent.
Service your car regularly. If the engine is running inefficiently, it's probably using too much petrol and giving off too much exhaust.
Always use the right fuel for your car. All Shell Advanced Fuels contain detergent additives to prevent the build-up of sticky black carbon in your engine. Without this protection engines can lose performance and use more petrol as well as giving off more exhaust emissions.
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-------------------------------------------Last edited by CTCT; 09-26-2011, 06:10 PM.
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