i didn't carry my cam yesterday, so as far as now i don't have the pics.
sorry

i connected the ape rr (grey wires) to the coil output wires..
and ape rr had 2 more wires, 1 black and 1 yellow.
i bolted the black rr's wire to the ape rr's socket as ground, quite sturdy.

took a thicker wire separately and bolted it to chassis, again sturdy connection, this is for battery's -ve which should be connected to ground

didn't connect the battery -ve to chassis bolted black wire until now.

i didn't connect battery +ve to the APE rr's yellow wire, until now, and i was just checking the OUTPUT given by ape rr's YELLOW wire.

so i connected the multimeter's black wire to ground (the chassis bolted black thick wire)
and multimeter's red wire to YELLOW wire coming out of ape rr
to check the voltage output, as was just making sure it doesn't get more current than 14.2v (+/- 0.20) which is recommended by the manual of the battery as input for charging.


ign coil's wire and pulse generator's wire is connected as stock (just to let you know)

i started the bike (remember the battery is still not connected)

to at idle i.e 1.7- 2k rpm it gave out nearly 6 to 8 volts output.

i revved the bike a bit.

at roughly 4k rpm it reaches 12 - 15 volts.

at 6k rpm goes up to 24- 26 volts

at 7.5 k rpm (my bike's redline) it gave out 34- 36 volts output.

remember all these are just ape rr's yellow wire and ground's reading.


as far is damage is concerned i think it is already damaged as my headlight is almost not glowing, it as good as shut even at 4 k rpm (with stock rr). Gives a very low orange glow if everything is connected as stock. With stock rr and old 2.5 amp battery.

neutral light glows wonderfully.

i didn't check output with stock rr though.

my battery is highly charged, and i didn't ride my bike from yesterday.

all i think i need to do is try to suppress the current till 14.5 or roughly 15 at max.
tell me how.

i didn't connect my AMARON 9 amp battery until now even once.
presently my old batt and my old rr is connected.
my headlight which glows almost as not glowing is powered by my OLD rr and OLD battery only.
i did it coz even if i fry the battery or blow my rr it shouldn't be the new batt and the new ape rr.

i didn't connect the AMARON 9 amp battery to rr's output & see battery's output even once as i don't want to ruin it, i'll feel free to do it if my ape rr's giving out good (14-15) volts so that i don't damage it.




meanwhile i even bought the PROJECTOR.
its from skoda octavia 1.9 tdi.
the old skoda where the proj is at the end of the headlight, smaller then laura's
it has a sturdy shield inside and is a very tight fit which i think i cannot remove.
i think i cannot even open the projector without breaking it a bit.

i think its H3 but it would be better if you guys confirm.
here are the pics.















let me know the socket if you can seeing the pics so that i can order that specific holder type hid kit.

also please give out valuable inputs about high current given out by the ape rr

thanks for all inputs until now and please please help me to finish it as i am almost over

just the bulb is in the to - do list.
apart from normalizing the above problems.

thanks.

guys I've also made a plan as how i plan to put up my headlight.

i plan to put up this projector at one side and a halogen high beam reflector on the other side.

something like this





i thought that normal reflectors and high beam reflectors might be different.
pulsar 220 has a high beam reflector but one cannot buy it separately, and YES i am looking for smaller reflectors to go inside that huge reflector only...
any more suggestions ??

What say doc ??
hows the idea ??
its a bit BMW inspired thanks for your suggestion.

Doc
Abhi
Sajjt
Shreeni

WHERE ARE YOU??????

ok,it seems you are using two rr s at once?if yes dont do that.
just do as i say and tell me the result...............

remove and disconnect everything,all,rr,battery,connectors everything you modified.
start fresh..........

connect ape rr to the chassis bolt or in simple words ,just bolt it to mount on the body of motorcycle.

connect the coil output to 2 grey ape rr wires,these are the ac input.

connect the oem wiring from the coil containing various wires like-neutral/pulse coil wire/pickup coil wire.BE SURE NOT TO ADD THE OEM ELCTRICAL WIRES,AS THEY ARE MODIFIED AND YOU ALREADY CONNECTED TO APE RR S AC INPUT.

connect the ape rr s output to battery directly.yellow to positive terminal,black to negative terminal,NOT THE GROUND THEN TO NEGATIVE,DIRECTLY TO BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL!!

stop!!

grab your trusty digital multimeter and check the dc voltage of the battery

now take the readings and post it in the fo0llowing manner...

when the engine is off-
start the engine-------
@1k-.................volts
@2k-.................volts
@3k-.................volts
@4k-.................volts
@5k-.................volts
@6k-.................volts
@7k-.................volts
@8k-.................volts
@9k-.................volts

if the range is between 12 volts to 15.8 volts ,then the system is working properly.your charging is ok till now.

to double check you can check the ampere rate also,.

TURN THE BIKE OFF!!!
set the digital multimeter to ampere mode.
remove the ape rr s yellow wire from the battery connect it to dig multimeter s red wire and the black wire to battery .be sure the connections should be tight.
start the bike.you should get a reading between 3-6 amps.

if you are getting the above said readings then just you need to reroute the all the bikes electrical s PROPERLY with a help of professional electricians help.

ALSO ,I GAVE YOU MY NUMBER FOR A REASON!!LET ME KNOW.


also...i think thats a h3 projector.
the idea is very nice of side by side light.for highbeam reflector try to souse a broken p 220s headunit and try to take the high beam from it.
otherwise there is other options.........
Hella India | Aftermarket

^^ Do as Doc says and let us know. Keep the projector stuffs away for a while. First make the base circuit correctly.

Lets keep projector and reflector away for a moment and come back to connections.

Doc
i DIDN'T connect 2 rr's.

let me start from scratch.

i removed everything, battery, ape rr, oem rr...

now i connected ONLY ape rr to coil wires.
the coil wires, 2 of them as output of coil are cut off separately from the socket by the person who had done the rewinding.
so that socket (which connects the wiring harness to coil) has only pulse generator and ign coil's output.

the cut off wires are my coil output wires.

now these 2 coil output wires goes to ape rr's grey wires,
(only ape rr is connected WITHOUT the battery even close)

all i did next was CHECK the output given by the yellow (output) wire of ape rr itself.

black bolted to its own socket.

i have only 1 wire left i.e yellow
now i took a wire from ground and other wire was ape rr's yellow wire and checked without the battery anywhere near.

I DID THIS JUST TO MAKE SURE I DON'T SUPPLY HIGH VOLTAGE TO BATTERY

when the bike was off it didn't show anything.

once i started i got readings as per as above post.

During all this i think i made 1 mistake.

I DIDN'T CONNECT THE BATTERY

an electrician tells me that if i don't connect the battery its left as open circuit i.e why i got these crazy readings.

he tells me to connect the battery to ape rr's yellow and black wire (i'll make sure the black wire of ape rr goes to battery -ve this time)

and check then

Even you said the same above doc.
i think not connecting the battery (being scared that more current would spoil it) gave me these stupid readings.

i will do it tomorrow.

and i'll let you know each and every reading with snaps.

thanks a lot i think it would work.

dont be scared,battery is robust enough.it will take at least some decent amount of time and high voltage exposure to fry it.so its cool to test it.more over you have warranty.

Sorry am bit late to this but u've nothing to worry about. Even myself was trying all these, I was feeling bad and mad just bcz of this RR. I've done the same thing u explained, didnt connect the +ve to the batt and checked and I also got these crazy figures. I thought the RR went for a toss bcz of wrong wiring. I bought another RR which was of a Delhi make, I didnt cut the sockets to connect instead I made a suitable cable connector for that and tried.WTF........ same result and I confirmed that my first RR is also fine and there should be some fine tuning missing. I got my money refunded bcz the guy made a promise that if not working he'll refund Came back with lot of confusions/frustrations like u've now and settle with stock for 2 days and after that I made up my mind to connect the batt which was also like urs a worn out one, so I can take a ride without much loss. I've connected the yellow to the batt +ve and measured Voila, its working. Ur electrician is right and I also got the same advise but I didnt take it as granted so I just ignored him. But I now I remember that he was also saying the same thing like ur electrician.

So u r almost there dude, just connect the + to the batt and test like everyone said. When u connect the stock rr back, u'll not get the full brightness as u've isolated the grnd from the stator body and thats why its not glowing like a heating element. U can use a wire to ground one of the coil wires and test it. The moment u touch one of the coils to gnd, ur bulb will come back to its life with better power as its rewinded. Other console lights are from batt directly so that will not get affected.

BTW, ur lens is not H3 base am sure as the H3 base need 2 screw cuttings on the base to secure the bulb. Like this:


Lets find out with the help of others. Hey Shree, what do u say? Accomodating both will be a pain as u need to fabricate brackets, should not affect the overall beauty etc. Anyway my best wishes for the twin pod mod. Even am longing for such setup but space is the main constraint.

Excuse me please !!! With my experience, the reading what he is getting happens when RR has failed. That is the almost the same reading which I was getting when my electricals fried off. If you have guarantee then please do get the RR unit changed.

Try to connect the RR to battery and check the charging volts and amps !! Without the load it might show high, but with load also if voltage is showing high then for sure its a problem.

THAT IS SKODA Projector and it is 100% H3 type. But for now keep the projector aside and get the circuit working.

Edit - Sajit, in case of spot light a screw is used to provide grounding as well as to hold bulb. You can compare ur image and the cuttings in the projector, it is the same

The projector is H3. I too have the same

My mad I was just looking into the inner square only... my apologies.

hello there
i successfully converted my bike to DC.
thanks to all you guys.

i connected everything as doc said and here are the readings of the system

with old battery (2.5 amps),

when engine was off ........... 12.3 v
@ 1000 ............................ 12.7 v
@ 2000............................. 13.2 v
@ 3000............................. 13.5 v
@ 4000............................. 14.1 v
@ 5000............................. 14.9 v
@ 6000............................. 15.3 v
@ 7000............................. 16.0 v
@ 8000............................. 16.8 v
@ 9000............................. 17.4 v

so this still exceeded 14.20 v recommended by the manual but its alright, at least its not showing crazy figures anymore.

so being confident i switched to my new battery (9 amp one)

the readings were as follows.

when engine was off ...... 12.4 v
@ 1000........................ 12.6 v
@ 2000........................ 12.6 v
@ 3000........................ 12.6 v
@ 4000........................ 12.6 v
@ 5000........................ 12.6 v
@ 6000........................ 12.6 v
@ 7000........................ 12.6 v
@ 8000........................ 12.6 v
@ 9000........................ 12.6 v

its strange that it remained constant at 12.6 no matter how hard i revved.

its fine i think.

Being happy i also tried re-routing the headlight wires from battery

during all this i used a (10 amp) fuse at 2 places.
1 at the wire connecting the battery to the wiring
another from +ve of battery to headlight.

however it didn't turn out to be successful as when i would connect the wiring to the ignition switch, then light would remain ON, no matter if the on/off switch was on or off and when i connected it to the on/off switch then it would act with the on/off function of the switch, no matter if the ignition key is put in or not.

however when i tried using both ignition switch and on/off switch it always burnt my fuse (i burnt seven 10 amps fuses today )
it burnt only the one on the wire connecting the headlight to battery


i did a stupidity (please forgive me for doing such non-sense).
i tried doing the same removing the fuse
and it burnt my wires from battery to headlight.

i think there's some common link of opposite wires in the ignition switch which if connected to on/off would burn the fuse.

luckily everything else works fine.
as far as now i think there's no way i can use the stock switch for hi/lo beam, if i use the ignition switch to turn electricals on, which i do need.

So i'll try to put up a different switch on the handlebar for hi/lo and even on/off and keep the ignition switch thing same.

if only i could have found an auto electrician who was willing to do it for me...
guys i never wanted to try doing it all by myself but here no mech or electrician, no one helped me
some didn't understand
some said it can't be done
and some told me to come to them on so and so day to get it done
so i had to get my hands dirty.

i think all i need now is a switch for on/off and another for hi/lo and will put dedicated wire from batt to headlight passing through ignition key to these switches and it will do the job,
finding ignition wires in the whole bunch inside the dome was a 2 hour job .

however i do need a different switch later on also after putting up hid and halo.

I'll keep you all updated.
thanks again everyone.

I really don't think finding ignition wire is so hard task. Just follow reverse process. Come from ignition unit, there has to be a connector which connects the ignition from wiring harness. Simple.

Probably you have messed connecting DC wire to headlight switch, GENERALLY there will be a YELLOW wire that carries AC power to switch and from there to headlight, disconnect it and provide DC power from IGNITION.
Now let your low/high beam switch trigger the relay. This is time consuming when you are doing for first time but definitely not impossible.

All the best

Well there is a lot of fun involved in DIY. Plus you can learn so much. I bet you learned a lot from all the stuff you've been doing.Plus, when it'll be successful, you can brag about how you did it all by yourself and just enjoy the astonished expressions on their faces. So don't worry so much man. People tend to blow up a lot of things when 'Doing It Themselves'. Just a little use of common sense like your use of fuse can save major catastrophes while working.. All the best man!

Ah, at last u made it Congrats man and welcome to the DC world

Dont go for another switch for HL as u can use the stock switches, to be routed through the ign switch. Assume that ur stock setup have a batt so it should've a batt switch along with the ign switch. Since ur bike is wired with a batt contact, u can easily take a taping from the wires going to the horn +ve and route it to the stock RR AC out wire to get DC to the switch. Now drive the relays with the stock switch and load the bulb from the batt with a thicker guage wire. Dont feed the bulb with the stock switch. Now from outside everything is stock condition, once u pull out the key everything is off and safe and u dont need an extra swtich too.