Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Here's the pic showing the little carves on the head made by the 200's piston.



Side View :

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Funny thing. I just saw RevMaster: 's pm asking me to join the thread. Wow... Talk of coincidence.

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Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Hey firstly, you're a brave guy to be undergoing this process.

anyway...

Since you've almost changed the entire engine itself, why not the head to a proper 200cc head? The moment someone suggests putting extra packing to allow more room for the valves, it also should be taken as compression might not be achieved because packing is packing anyway... you've got to first ensure that the explosions (combustions) happening in your bike are firstly well and properly contained to ensure that the energy is directed to the drive shaft.

My suggestion would've been to go for a 200 head even before you put two packings on that.

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

A new update :

I've visited a couple of Bajaj's ASC but none of them had the 200's head but some of their own mechanics said that the 180's head will fit in ease with the 200's piston so I gone ahead and purchased anew good looking 180's head from a scrap shop. Fitted new valves. Came to the workshop to know that the mechanic is out of town.

This mod put my bike away from me literally for almost three weeks So I took the plunge and started assembling the engine head on my own. Its not that hard really. I'm not sure if should put a head gasket but I added just one(previously two) for the new head and tightened the bolts with the airgun. I made sure that the flywheel is put on TDC and the piston is on top position and properly fitted the camshaft sprocket to the timing chain with the proper markings. Once everything is put on place, I engaged the self-start. And you know what?

All those hitting and rattling noise magically disappeared and I can already see the smooth but powerful enging cranking sound. After a little while, the engine finally started running but when I tried to give it a little throttle, the RPM seemed to stall and not go forth the 5k-6k RPM. Not to mention the engine idles at 4k RPM which is a little too high so I tried to adjust the AF screw and the idle screw. Later I found out that the reason why the RPM is not going forth the 5k-6k RPM is because I've not connected this little connector which doesn't have any terminals to the reed switch housed on the carb. Once its connected, The RPM easily hits the 10k-11k RPM.

After a lot of tuning & tweaking with the AF & Idle screw, I still can't put the engine back to 1500-2000 RPM. Its varying at 4k to 6k RPM and I can't find why its running this high at idle. Maybe its because of the new main & pilot jets we put on the carb.

A little nightmare :

So the engine has been running for 5 mins while I kept tuning the carb but I noticed a lot of oil spills on the floor. I don't know where its coming from but it looked like its coming out of the head gasket or from the RH spark plug's housing. I tightened all of them and tried to start the engine but it failed to start. This put me back to the position before three days where the engine doesn't start no matter what you do. I've to also mention that the kicker strucks at the bottom and never returns back when I try to kick it.

I noticed there was a huge smoke coming out of the engine's breathing hose aka PCV hose. The battery gone dead again after a lot of cranking but the engine never starts but sounded like its going to start which made me think there's still a compression problem lying somewhere which I'm not so sure about.

Here's a little overview of what we have so far :

Modified pulsar 200's crank rod to fit my 150 case with new bearings on the crankshaft
Pulsar 200's bore and piston
Pulsar 180's head with new valves
Camshaft is still the same from my old 150
New timing chain
New timing chain adjuster
New Engine packings and gaskets and oil seals
Same carb from my 150 connected to K&N air filter but with new 180's main and pilot jets

Looking forward to expert's replies on what might be still holding the engine from starting...

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Hi buddy, I have done the same mod on my UG4 180 but i converted it to 220cc, i did not change the cyllinder head and in your case I guess its the Cyllinder Head at play, engine isnt getting enough of compression to start.

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Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Thanks for the reply mate. Since you said you converted yours from 180 to 220 and never changed the head, I think its fine to use the 180's head for the 200's piston., No?

Can you please tell what other things should I look after to get my engine ranking?

I already spent a little fortune for this mod so far with zero results but I can see it almost started working.

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Check all the gaskets and hoses. Air leak might be the culprit for the rpm issue.
Change the carb. The 150 carb is puny.
Btw. Double packing is never a good idea. The packings will burn out eventually.

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Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

The RPM issue was resolved when I connected that magnetic wire? to the reed switch. Also, I've replaced both the main and pilot jets on the 150 carb with the 180 ones.

The double packing is no more as the piston is not hitting this new 180's head unlike the 150 so I placed just a single (metal)gasket for the head.

The engine ran just fine for 5-10 minutes and checked the throttle and RPM and everything seemed okay. I still don't understand why there is white smoke emitting out of that PCV hose when trying to self/kick start the engine. The smoke eventually goes away when the engine is running. Since I'm using the K&N, there is no place to connect that PCV hose so there was a dummy hose connected to it which was blocked on the other end. I didn't connect this dummy hose to the PCV but when connected, the hose blasts away like rocket after a little self/kick start due to compression inside so I left the PCV hose open.

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

The 150 uses a 26mm carb. 200 has a 29mm carb. The 220 has a 32mm carb. So you atleast need a 29mm.

White smoke out of the intake is worrysome. Might be due to wrong timing.

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Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Thanks for the reply. Is there any way I've a chance to keep the bike running with the current carb(150 with bigger jets) for a littlewhile until I can save some money? Say for a week or two.

I'm thinking to go with the 220 cam as you suggested in the previous posts. So If I chose to go with the 220 carb, how much will it set me back? I don't think I can find it in scrap shops so I've to purchase it new.

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Another lightbulb moment :

I also want to add that the whole time I'm trying to start the engine via kick/self start, the air filter was put out ie., its not connected to the carb and its pulling the air with no filters on. If I remember correctly, it was still the same(no filters) when the engine ran for 10-15 mins. Maybe thats why the RPM shoots to 4k RPM no matter how much I adjust the idle or AF screw?

Is it the reason why the engine is not starting?

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Dude... Please check everything is in place before you start a bike. No filter means dead head. Yes. It might be a reson for non starting.

Camshaft is around 600. Carb is about 2.5k.

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Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Eek. That makes sense.lol

I've read on few other automative forums and found that a open PCV hose and unregulated air flow like mine(with no air filters on) will stall the engine. This may answer my question that even though the engine sounds like its going to start, it gives up at the end because there is too much air coming in and they're going out via the PCV hose due to the pressure build up. I might also have to replace what I called as dummy hose. I found out its not dummy hose but the PCV valve which opens and closes when too much pressure is inside the engine. All these mechanical stuffs & terms are too new for a computer nerd like me. I'll try the fix now and update the thread.

Thanks a ton for all the constructive and helpful replies so far!

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

the issue of high idle rpm is due to air leak, in the inlet manifold there is an o-ring that comes between the inlet manifold and the cyl head , if you have missed it during assembly or if it is damaged then it will lead to air leak , also pcv hasnt anything to do with your starting trouble , next time when you try to start it close about half to 2/3rds of the carb with the palm of your hand , it should start up , also check whether current is reaching both the spark plugs ,

Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Soory for late reply, Since mine was a UG4 version, almost all the internals except the crankshaft were same as P200/220, though they had different part numbers.

The reason your bike isn't cranking maybe due to:
1.Vaccum leak from intake manifold.
2.Cyllinder head isnt fitted properly.
3.Carb isnt able to supply enough of Air, K&N + Stock P180/200 mainjet on a UCD 26 carb are simply not enough.
4.Problem in wiring or CDI, believe me I've faced this before due to a broken wire n symptoms are exactly thesame as you mentioned.
5.Improper valve clearence resulting in either loss or too high compression.Adjust it with a feeler gauge.
6.Timing Chain is improperly seated on its sprocket, resulting in inappropriate timing.

This is all you need to check, That's all I can point as I never faced such issue past 30000kms.

I hope senior bikers like [MENTION=13906]pavanchirmade[/MENTION] [MENTION=24386]Samarth[/MENTION]619 and [MENTION=15693]princesirohi[/MENTION] can help you.

Wish to see your ride rolling soon.


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Re: Help: Converted my Pulsar 150 UG3 to 200 but...

Disclaimer: I am not an expert in engine modification, but since you seems to be in a fix, i am trying to reply with whatever little knowledge i have (General Knowledge and Common Sense)

First a few warning remarks:

(1) It is not a wise decision to embark on a modification task on your own if you do not have complete knowledge of engine internals alongwith some hands-on experience.
(2) Again it is not wise to get it done from a mechanic who has no previous experience of such modification.
(3) Assembling the engine head yourself, a bold step, nevertheless, not advisable if its your first time.

xBhp is filled with stories like yours and more often than not, it ends up in lot of hard work, mental and financial agony, short romance and an unhappy ending.

So, think before you act.

if you do not have access to an engine modification expert, then do this only if you have endless amount of time and money, and if you have the money, simply buy a better bike, otherwise keep it stock, and save money and save all the effort, time etc, and keep your bike reliable.

plz understand that manufacturer knows much more than us, there is a reason your bike is designed the way it is.

plz dont get angry but i couldn't resist myself from sharing some thoughts.



(1) Connecting rod is of P200 or P150 ? if its of P200, there should not be any problem of piston pin not fitting it properly. if its of P150, then it should not hit anywhere. is it because P200 connecting rod was wider by 2 mm at crankshaft end??

(2) ideally you should have used a brand new P200 head, extra packing is not a proper solution or should have matched the profile with bore.

(3) kick star not working is an indication of some major problem. first check if it is fitted properly.

you will need a P200 carb, if you want it to run properly, there is no way to escape this. BUT using a P150 carb won't prevent it from starting or running. only thing is - it will run extremely lean, will not give good power output and will overheat.

and you will need a P200 head, coz there will be a difference in valve sizes, and if you cant feed your engine properly or take out exhaust gasses quick enough, there is no use of bigger bore and piston.

in fact if engine modification is done in a stagewise manner, the first stage is porting. it is that important.

and not only your piston will hit the cyl. head, but may be your valves are hitting the piston head too. (may be)

hence if you look at all these things, you need a P200 head.

BCU has no role in engine start-up or running.

CDI going faulty is a lesser probability.

what is a PCV..??

you already had a problem with P150 head, and still you decided to buy a P180 head. why not a P200 brand new head.

anyway, if i would have been in your place--i would have--

(1) installed a P200 cyl. head to get a perfect match.
(2) resolved the issue why timming chain is over stiff.
(3) resolved why kick start is not working

and got it done from an experienced mechanic.


then, when the engine is running fine, i would have installed a P200 carb.

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and dont use parts sourced from junkyard, to modify your bike. there is a reason it is in junkyard. can you check if its 100% ok or not. if you are not sure please buy a brand new cyl. head.