Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Saravanan Murdlock replied

01-01-2020, 08:12 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Not really. BS4 engines have EVAP system which catch the fumes out from the tank and re route it to the a canister, so the fumes are effectively well controlled. All motorcycle tanks are vented and even with a full tank, on some motorcycles, you'll have fuel smell emanating, but nothing enough to cause a hazard. Moreover, they'll subside eventually. Don't take a matchstick and throw it into the tank, in which case you'll blow your house along with the bike.

Talk about timing. Even I am considering to install the slipper clutch on my R15s from the V3. From what it seems, the clutch basket hasn't been touched by Yamaha, and it's almost completely similar to the older ones. Basically, the entire clutch assy i.e. basket/plates/pressure plate, all have to be replaced in our case, and a few bushes if any, but that's pretty much it. But, I will confirm this in a while. In the meantime, I'd suggest, if you can head to your nearest SVC and get a confirmation on the same it'd be extremely helpful. But from my hunch, it's a direct swap.

Cheers!
VJ

VJ, Have you played around our clutch?
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MidnightEvil Parth replied

01-01-2020, 01:19 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Available under Bansal brand usually, I bought mine for ₹15. Goodluck.

Originally posted by saikatbyte View Post

Where can I find tappet/valve clearance adjustment tool in Bangalore?
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Shashank K R replied

01-01-2020, 01:12 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by saikatbyte View Post

Where can I find tappet/valve clearance adjustment tool in Bangalore?

Raja Tools Company, AM Road (just off the main JC road). Bought mine for 50 rupees.

I assume you're looking for this tool-

Last edited by Shashank K R; 01-01-2020, 01:16 PM.
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B7ACKTHORN replied

12-30-2019, 10:41 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by saikatbyte View Post

Where can I find tappet/valve clearance adjustment tool in Bangalore?

Shops which sell tool kit and vehicle hardware they should have it. But I don't know any shop in Blore.
[MENTION=17086]Black[/MENTION]asp

Cheers!
VJ
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saikatbyte replied

12-30-2019, 11:37 AM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Where can I find tappet/valve clearance adjustment tool in Bangalore?
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B7ACKTHORN replied

12-22-2019, 10:01 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Yes VJ, not all are one-time use. My GS150 has 4 bigger Allen bolts and they can be reused; however, Suzuki recommends a thread locker. Apart from easily available Anabond, Loctite 243 is now available in a 0.5 ml pack (8 INR!). Your torque wrench is Mac Master?

It's a Mac Master yes, 3/8 drive 5-35 NM. 5 year old, using it for all my projects. Recalibrated once for free.

Cheers!
VJ
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ashwanth.r replied

12-22-2019, 09:41 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Ash, these bolts are extremely solid, these aren't one-time use bolts. Here's one when I did my caliper overhaul. Cheers! VJ

Yes VJ, not all are one-time use. My GS150 has 4 bigger Allen bolts and they can be reused; however, Suzuki recommends a thread locker. Apart from easily available Anabond, Loctite 243 is now available in a 0.5 ml pack (8 INR!). Your torque wrench is Mac Master?
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B7ACKTHORN replied

12-22-2019, 07:44 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Beautifully explained. I hope you changed the disc bolts with new as these are usually "one time" use bolts (they stretch permanently when tightened correctly. This stretch acts as a spring/tension to keep them from loosening). Also, a threadlocker like Loctite 243 should be used if mentioned in the manual. If you find them loosened after several thousand kms, better to replace these bolts with new + threadlocker.

Ash, these bolts are extremely solid, these aren't one-time use bolts. Also, all bolts and nuts work on the principle of stretch adhesion. And you're right, thread lockers are a must in disc bolts.

Originally posted by saikatbyte View Post

[ or v1 or S, or any other vehicle if the process is similar.

Sai, good job. Just a thing to point out is, apply threadlocker for peace of mind. I apply it for caliper bolts also. The disc plate bolts have whitish threadlocker applied from factory and so did my caliper bolts on my R15S.

I make sure I apply a dot of Anabond blue lockers on all bolts before installing them back. That's all there is. Here's one when I did my caliper overhaul.

Cheers!
VJ
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ashwanth.r replied

12-22-2019, 07:18 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

This is some critical information that a good number of us oversee. Thanks for sharing. Regards, A.P.

Originally posted by saikatbyte View Post

Thank you so much the info mate.
DIY is anyday learning with past experiences.

Yup. I too keep learning something new everyday!

The below video was made for training purpose - basic but good. It also explains why some bolt threads have to be drenched in oil before tightening.

https://youtu.be/AAIccJ6gpxg
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saikatbyte replied

12-22-2019, 06:03 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Beautifully explained. I hope you changed the disc bolts with new as these are usually "one time" use bolts (they stretch permanently when tightened correctly. This stretch acts as a spring/tension to keep them from loosening). Also, a threadlocker like Loctite 243 should be used if mentioned in the manual. If you find them loosened after several thousand kms, better to replace these bolts with new + threadlocker.

Yeah, I missed that, while removing I found that threadlocker (slightly light green color) is in only one bolt, rest of bolts are normal without threadlocker, cost cutting by Yamaha.
But, if anything occurs, I will put it back with threadlocker, and probably with new bolts, just removing, putting little threadlocker & again tightening stuff, 10-15min job.
Thank you so much for the info mate.
DIY is anyday learning with past experiences.

Last edited by saikatbyte; 12-22-2019, 09:07 PM.
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ashwinprakas replied

12-22-2019, 05:18 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Beautifully explained. I hope you changed the disc bolts with new as these are usually "one time" use bolts (they stretch permanently when tightened correctly. This stretch acts as a spring/tension to keep them from loosening). Also, a threadlocker like Loctite 243 should be used if mentioned in the manual. If you find them loosened after several thousand kms, better to replace these bolts with new + threadlocker.

This is some critical information that a good number of us oversee.

Thanks for sharing.

Regards,
A.P.
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ashwanth.r replied

12-22-2019, 04:46 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by saikatbyte View Post

I think this will help changing the front disc plate (or disc pads) of R15 v2 or v1 or S, or any other vehicle if the process is similar.

Beautifully explained. I hope you changed the disc bolts with new as these are usually "one time" use bolts (they stretch permanently when tightened correctly. This stretch acts as a spring/tension to keep them from loosening). Also, a threadlocker like Loctite 243 should be used if mentioned in the manual. If you find them loosened after several thousand kms, better to replace these bolts with new + threadlocker.
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saikatbyte replied

12-21-2019, 08:01 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Front Disc Plate (Rotor) Replacement

Story Behind:

I was not getting even 5000km front disc pad life, due to Bangalore worse traffic, where you have to brake literally each metre you move, in dense traffic scenario. Within 32000 km, my bike was on its 6th disc pad that too worn out to the groove mark.

Yamaha Service Centers are horrible. Every time they put the disc pads in such a way the inner pad rubs more than the outer pad, that too inconsistent (like tapered). They don't even bother to apply very little amount of grease/WD40 between the rubber covers & caliper bracket small rods/pins, refer this picture.

And, that leads to inconsistent movement or jammed movement when the disc pads are pressed (consider the caliper assembly moves along the pins/rods while the caliper bracket/holder is fixed with the right fork) and thus it rub the disc pads unevenly.

Matter went worse, I went to Nandi Hills last month and while descending while braking I heard some disc plate rubbing noise (khis-khis type), after inspection saw the inner pad worn out to its groove mark and rubbing the disc plate. This was so disheartening and I had to buy a new front disc plate (costs 880/-) and front disc pad kit (599/-), and had to replace them on my own.

Required Tools for the DIY Process:

16-17mm & 18-19mm Ring Spanner (to remove the wheel)

12mm Ring Spanner or Ratchet Spanner (recommended) (to open the caliper bolts)

8mm Ratchet Spanner or T-Handle Socket Wrench (to open the brake line holding bracket)

Small Nose Plier (to open the Caliper Pin Clips)

Two Cotton Rags, dry & non-oily (one to clean disc calipers, another to clean the new disc plate after installing into wheels)

6mm Long Allen key & Extension Pipe to force tighten/loosen the allen key for better leverage (to remove the disc plate mounting bolts)

The DIY Process:

Put the on main stand (RX135/RX100 detachable main stand) or Paddock Stand. Pull the front brake lever with a rubber band tied so that it will not move while removing the axle bolt-nut or loosening the disc plate mounting bolts (I'll come in detail why I said this).

Now, put 17mm Ring Spanner into Axle bolt head & 19mm Ring Spanner into Axle Nut, apply some force with hand (if inadequate then apply foot pressure by holding the one with hand & pushing another to loosen). Make it loosen, don't remove the nut.

Now, loosen (not to remove now) the disc plate mounting bolts using 6mm Allen Key & leverage extension pipe or similar, because it is very tight, require heavy hand pressure to open.

Remove the rubber band in the brake lever and set it free.

Now, remove the caliper bolts with 12mm spanner & brake line holding bracket bolt with 8mm spanner/wrench.

Remove the caliper from the disc plate by applying some partial pull-push to create a little gap between the disc pads to release from the plate easily.

Remove the disc pads by removing the caliper pin clips (using plier), pulling the pin & lifting the old pads slowly so that the retainer spring doesn't come out.

Don't ever pull the brake lever, ever! Otherwise the caliper pistons will come out in a position from which it will be difficult to put it back to original position.

Push the pistons back to the caliper level with a T handle spanner pushing inside the cup surface.

Now, apply very little grease on the caliper bracket sliding pins, which goes inside two rubber covers, the lubrication is required for easy sliding or jam-free caliper movement along the caliper bracket rods/pins.

Replace with the new pads. Put the caliper pin. Put the clips (take picture before to find how it was before). Leave the caliper assembly hanging.

Now, remove the axle bolt & nut, remove the wheel carefully so that collar will not come out and fall on ground, if falls, keep it aside after cleaning from dust/sand otherwise it may damage the bearing oil seal.

Remove the wheel, and the put some wood block or brick at the bottom cowl to keep the bike up.

Remove, the disc plate mounting bolts, carefully & in cross-pattern to maintain alignment.

Put back the new disc plate, with "3.5MM" Embedded Text top side and tighten the nuts crossed pattern as explained before in picture (as tight as it was before, because it will stop the full bike, refer manual for proper N-m torque)

Put back the wheel & apply some grease into the axle bolt & nut. Mount the speed sensor carefully into the slot.

Put the caliper back into fork, and tightened carefully so that while tightening spanner will not rub with other parts (specially brake lines)

Put the brake hose holding Clip back.

Now, pump the brake lever.

Ride very slowly until when you feel the braking is apt.

I am not attaching many pictures so as to keep it simple to understand. I think this will help changing the front disc plate (or disc pads) of R15 v2 or v1 or S, or any other vehicle if the process is similar.
Last edited by saikatbyte; 12-21-2019, 08:13 PM.
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B7ACKTHORN replied

11-06-2019, 09:45 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Originally posted by black asp View Post

Completed 1.5 lakh kms on the bike some months back.
Few pointers.
New tyres. New cone set.
( Fed up with these)
New rear panels.
Completed 30k kms on rimula. The oil is a revelation.
Engine is still stock. Experiencing oil level drop issues but not by much.
Pump is malfunctioning in hot weather.
Have ordered a new one. Will put it. Currently undergoing an era of being a lazy bum.
Rest all fine.

CHEERS

Hey Ram! It's about time, the R3 gets to this level mate. Go figure!

Cheers!
VJ
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black asp replied

11-06-2019, 08:51 PM
Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Completed 1.5 lakh kms on the bike some months back.
Few pointers.
New tyres. New cone set.
( Fed up with these)
New rear panels.
Completed 30k kms on rimula. The oil is a revelation.
Engine is still stock. Experiencing oil level drop issues but not by much.
Pump is malfunctioning in hot weather.
Have ordered a new one. Will put it. Currently undergoing an era of being a lazy bum.
Rest all fine.

CHEERS
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